How I made a skeleton greenhouse with my own hands

Lightweight and simple to make a greenhouse, assembled by Mikhail Kovalyov on his site, has already been tested in the 2016 season and has proven itself.

Capital greenhouse - a good thing, but has its own characteristics.

For him it is necessary to allocate a stationary place, which imposes certain restrictions on the project of the site. In addition, many think that, before investing in such a structure, then it will not be necessary to carry out complex seasonal work: harvested, thrown out the tops and rest until the next landing. But this is not true. The capital greenhouse needs treatment of external and internal surfaces, disinfection of the land, etc. Not to mention the high cost of its construction.

Light frame greenhouse is easy to move around the garden, if necessary, change its configuration or do not use it for a while. But here you will also have to assemble / disassemble the frame, remove / cover the covering material, solve the problem, how to fix the film on the frame, etc. It may seem difficult and unattractive for beginners.

But fresh tomatoes from the beds you want

I wanted to do a hotbed in any case and did not frighten the mentioned problems, but I decided to simplify my task after all. Composing the design, formulated the goals:

• - minimum amount of seasonal work;
• - make a durable greenhouse that does not require disassembling it in the winter;
• - provide the ability to move it around the garden;
• - so that it is easy to operate and cheap compared to purchased ones.

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See also:  Stationary greenhouse with their own hands

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Selection of materials for building a skeleton greenhouse

I decided to abandon the use of heavy and expensive materials and make it easier for a greenhouse to serve an elderly person, that is, to open, process and close could be as simple as possible.

For the arcs I chose the cheapest material - HDPE pipes 0 20 mm (I had something in stock after repair, but I had to buy most of it). For the base of the greenhouse I chose strips of flat slate - I have long been using them for the device of high beds.

But on the fasteners of the arcs decided not to save and bought specialized brackets (clamps) of the appropriate diameter with two holes for the screws. 4 staples were taken for each arc. Accordingly, screws M5 x 25, nuts and washers were needed.

To fix the arcs in the ridge and for the racks of the frame, I used an inch board. 2 trimming 2,6 m long went to the skate, 4 boards 1 m long to the racks, for the ends of the base of the greenhouse I used 4 meter sections of the board 50 x 100 mm.

In my calculation, arcs were required 2,9 m long, they were mounted on a slate sidewall with a width of 20 cm. Thus, the useful length of the arc was 2,9- (2 × 0,2) = 2,5 m.

Three slate blanks for the long side of the base gave me the total length of the greenhouse 5,25 m. To fix the arcs in the ridge, one long board could be used. But I wanted the greenhouse to be portable, that is not heavy for two people, so the horse decided to make a composite of two boards.

Building a Greenhouse

Six slate strips of length 1,75 m are paired in pairs and a drill 0 5,5 mm we make holes for fastening the staples in them. At the ends of the greenhouse slate sidewalls with screws are connected to boards with the cross section 100 * 50 mm. Under the screws in the slate we drill through a pair of holes.

The number of arcs, as well as the width of the greenhouse, can be chosen arbitrarily. The hotbed was easy to make both wider and higher, but this would increase the weight of the frame, and I originally planned it as light as possible.

In the ridge board we drill holes of 0 20 mm for arcs. Screw the screws into the bottom edge of the board from below, to which plants can then be tied. The board is a practical material: the film will be attached to it from above, and there will be holes for galvanized wire (see below).

The frame of the section is assembled from two outer slate strips with fixed, but not bracketed from inside, and two transverse planks.

I specially made staples for fastening the arcs from the inside of the slate sidewalls - it is easier in the summer to cut grass around the perimeter of the greenhouse.

We pass the arcs into the holes drilled in the ridge board, and their ends are inserted inside the brackets on the slate sidewalls and tightened with screws. At this point, you need an assistant holding a ridge board with arches.

After all the arcs have been fixed and the screws are tightened, we insert in advance the pre-prepared stands, which are fixed by the corners on the end boards of the base of each section. This adds rigidity to the frame, and also removes the lateral "pot-belliedness" of the greenhouse, associated with the bending of HDPE pipes stored in the bays. First we make the two extreme sections of the greenhouse.

At a previously plowed place, we cut out the longitudinal grooves, into which we insert the slate side walls of the base, and deepen them into the soil at 5-7 cm so that they are level and horizontal. The distance between the sections should be such that there are two middle slate side walls of the frame base.

We fasten them with screws to the end boards of neighboring sections. We insert the remaining arcs into the corresponding brackets and the frame is completely ready. Each arc has five attachment points - this is more than enough to ensure the rigidity of the frame of the greenhouse. We connect the ridge boards to each other with a perforated steel strip and screws.

At the final stage, before laying the reinforced film (it is the most dense and resistant to wind) in the ridge boards we make six holes 0 2,5 mm for the zinc-plated steel wire 0 2,0 mm which will serve us for fixing the film during the airing of the greenhouse.

We measure the wire so that an isosceles triangle is obtained, where the top is the hole in the ridge board, and the base is the upper edges of the slate sidewalls. We bend the ends of the wire so as not to prick about it and not pierce the film. We select the drilling locations for the wire in such a way that it is easier to fix the film on the frame during ventilation.

Six pieces of galvanized wire will allow you to easily fix the straps with the film at the correct height to ventilate the hotbed in hot weather.
Wire easily bends in the right place, but holds firmly and does not allow the wind to unwind the film. The end of the wire must be folded so that the film does not tear.
In places where the film overlaps, unnecessary holes are formed, which is "treated" by several layers of adhesive tape between the arcs in the place of greatest sagging.

Cover the greenhouse

First, cut the film. As already mentioned, the useful arc length is 2,5 m. We cut the film with the allowance necessary for its fastening to a wooden plank with a cross section of 20 * 30 mm. The total length of the canvas should be such that the planks on its edges do not touch the ground and you can mow the grass, not being afraid to catch the greenhouse film on the trimmer line. In my case, the length of the canvas turned out to be equal to 2,7 m.

The edges of the film are screwed on the slats (here, too, an assistant is needed) and fastened with screws with a press washer. We arrange the pitches in such a way that the water does not get wet during the rain.

Ready strips of reinforced film width of 2 m are placed on the greenhouse, leveling on the upper edges of the slate sidewalls (we set them horizontally in level) and above, with a pitch of 15-20 cm, through an additional washer we fasten with sa-seam to the ridge board.

I closed the ends of the greenhouse with the same reinforced film, attaching it to the arcs with tape. In case of windy weather, the film can be attached to the extreme arches using plastic brackets 0 20 mm - they are sold in construction markets.

TO ACCESS THE EDGE OF THE GREENHOUSE SIMPLY WE RESTORE THE NECESSARY NUMBER OF TOWELS THROUGH THE BORDER BOARD. For the testing of the structure, we bend the wire of wires at the required height and we put in the received hose a wound with a wound edge of the foil.

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Reference by topic:  Membrane chamber with own hands - photo

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Overlooked

After the final assembly, the greenhouse found that when calculating the arc step, I did not take into account the width of the film strips. Overlapping of canvases that do not fall on the arc, fail in the edges inside the greenhouse. The problem was solved with the help of the same scotch, which I pulled in pairs in pairs of arcs in the place of the greatest deflection of the edges.

IN THE CONSTRUCTION OF THIS GREENHOUSE, THE ARRANGEMENTS OF THE ARCS SHOULD BE CHOSEN IN ACCOUNT OF THE LOCATION OF FILMS OF FILMS - THE ARC MUST BE UNDER THEIR OVERLAP.

Results

The design fully justified itself. First, the cost of it was relatively small (see table). Running meter greenhouse cost about 500 rub. To replace the spring will only need a film, and then, I hope, not every year.

Secondly, it is very convenient to work with a greenhouse. To replace the old film with a new one, it takes no more than an hour, and to remove it in the fall - 10 minutes.

During storage, the canvas wound on the planks simply stands in the corner of the household unit.

In winter - a complete lack of interest in our garden "collectors" of metal.

MATERIALS FOR MANUFACTURE OF GREENHOUSE
Material	Cost, rub.
HDPE pipes	650
Slate strips	600
Film	800
fasteners	400
Straps 20 x 30 x 2000 mm (6 pcs.)	150

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