Growing of ordinary beans - planting and care (Voronezh)
My experiments (successful) with the cultivation of common beans
In every magazine or on the summer site I certainly meet articles about tomatoes.
This vegetable we have, truckers, the most popular. I, of course, also grow it in my dacha, but I decided to tell about it common beans - for some reason they undeservingly forget about her.
This bean crop seems unpretentious - just water it, and harvest in due time. So I did for a long time. But since I can not imagine life without my beloved bean soup, as well as a winter lecho with beans, which my wife and I are engaged in preserving every year, I decided one day to reconsider the agricultural technology of this culture. And the thing is that the bean bed always looked lush and green in the summer, but when it was time to harvest, it turned out that there were very few shoulder blades with beans on these beautiful bushes. And the size of the beans themselves did not please.
And only having reconsidered the approach to cultivation of this plant, I have understood, that the concept "unpretentiousness" relative. Perhaps, in the area with chernozem beans and does not require any work, but on our sands this method does not work.
Changing the agrotechnics of beans, I was able to increase its yield several times!
This is exactly what I want to tell you about. Planning a bed of beans, I used to think that it can grow anywhere, if only it was sunny, because she herself is a plant that heals the soil.
See also: Growing red beans - councils of the dacha
After experimenting, I saw the difference. The string bean grew very poorly, after being planted after sunflower or corn, and also on the garden where rye was sown as a siderata. No matter how she felt after root crops. But the best bean bushes developed, if their predecessors were, cucumbers, zucchini and cabbage.
The row for the beans is now prepared in the autumn, as it began to lime the acid soil of our site.
Under the digging I put in the slaked lime according to the instructions, then I fall asleep on the bed with fallen leaves from the garden and dig it all up onto the bayonet of the shovel. Leaves to spring rot and make the land incredibly loose. In the spring before planting, no additional digging is required, I just pass through the bed with a flat cutter, loosening the ground, and then level it with rakes.
Earlier, saving money, I bought a planting stock on the market. A glass of seeds from grandmothers was much cheaper than the same amount of planting material in the garden store. But my savings, as it turned out, came to me sideways-the harvest was not happy. He began experimenting, buying planting material in the store, he found two beautiful varieties, which I now plant annually. Very happy mid-season high-yielding bush cultivar Gardener, which shows an enviable resistance to adverse weather conditions. Beans of this variety have a beige shade with burgundy specks, a very large size. Not less productive was the early-ripening shrub of Skorospelka. It gives excellent in quality beans of dark red color with small white impregnations, which very effectively look in cans with winter billets.
Decisive for beans centimeters
If earlier I planted seeds in the open ground dry, while abundantly watering the furrows, but now I began to soak them before planting in a solution of a complex organo-mineral fertilizer. In addition, do not just soak, but wait until the beans come on. This avoids the unevenness of the shoots and the subsequent thinning, and I also do not squander the planting material in vain. Beans need to be laid on a moderately moistened fabric and regularly ventilated, otherwise they can easily bend. They pecked through 3-4 days, so I easily guess when I need to dunk them, in order to sprout already sprouted on the patch {I only go to the country on weekends).
By the way, about the grooves in the garden - it was in them that I used to sow seeds. Now I’m doing differently. On the prepared bed I make holes and put in each one sprouted beans - such planting material guarantees the appearance of a sprout.
Most importantly, I began to place the holes at a distance of 20-30 cm from each other. I think it was such a sparse arrangement of bean bushes that played a decisive role in increasing their yield.
Perhaps someone will say that you will not get land for all vegetables, but the total yield with this planting scheme has increased many times compared to the seeding of seeds in the furrows at a distance of 10-15 cm from each other in the same area.
When I put each handful of compost and a glass of sifted ash into each hole, I mix the contents with the soil, pour water abundantly and plant the beans to a depth of 3-4 cm - very carefully so as not to damage the roots.
I’m not in a hurry to land, I patiently wait for stable, warm weather to set, because this culture does not tolerate return cold weather, as well as excessive soil moisture. Last May, it was raining heavily, I had to urgently set arcs above the bean bed and cover them with lutrasil. This alone saved the barely emerged seedlings from death. I remember that five years ago the exact same cold rainy weather ruined all my beans - the sprouts in these conditions turned yellow very quickly, and then rotted.
As the shoots get stronger, mulch the ground under them with mown grass. This method allows you to keep moisture in the soil after irrigation, because to go to the country more often than once a week I can not. But on the weekend very well watering planting in several receptions.
Top-dressing beans
I feed bushes three times a season. The first fertilizer I spend weeks two after emergence. I use an unusual recipe for this: a loaf of dried rye bread for a few days soak in water, adding to it 1 tsp. Sahara. After fermentation I bring the volume of such kvass to 10 l and after the next watering I fertilize the plants under the root, pouring a half liter of the solution into each well.
The second feeding is carried out 14 days after the first, using a solution of fermented grass (1: 10) with the addition of a glass of sifted ash to a bucket of such fertilizer. Under one bush I pour out 1 l of such a solution. The last top dressing is carried out with an ash infusion in the period of mass maturing of the scapula. For this, I pour a glass of ash 4-5 l warm water, I persist for 24 hours, stirring occasionally, and then bring the volume to 10 l and feed the bushes at the rate of 1 l per plant.
In the period of mass flowering I sprinkle bushes with honey water (2-3 st.l of old honey on a bucket of water.) You would see how many bees and bumblebees after that spin over flowering plants!
I do not spend any tricks when caring for my beans. Now I understand what a truly lush bean bush is! But most importantly, the bushes tie a huge number of blades - before this, I had no trace. From the same garden I get a more generous crop - and this with less bushes themselves.
But to grow a crop is half the battle; it must also be preserved. To prevent bugs from starting up in winter beans, I proceed with harvested and crushed beans as follows. I immediately put some of the beans on the seeds and put them in the refrigerator for storage until the next sowing. I immediately let part in the canning, and put those that will be stored in the kitchen in the cupboard into packages and put them in the freezer.
I endure it there for a week, then I take it out and pour it into the jars. After the beans are frozen, bugs are not found in them throughout the winter.
These simple tricks help me collect annually an excellent harvest of beans, which now is abundant enough not only for food, but for seeds. I am sure that among the readers there are also lovers of this ancient plant, I will be very happy if my advice will help them in the new season to get a rich harvest.
See also: Growing and storing of string beans
Bean sprouting - video
© Author: Igor Valerievich KOSOV. Voronezh
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Seeds of Yaak beans I got when I was visiting Lviv region. This plant is unpretentious, it is good in the shade and in the sun. The variety is rather cold, and it can be planted in the spring in the soil for 2-3 weeks earlier than the usual beans. He fructifies till November.
Before sowing, the beans are soaked in warm water (40 °) for 6 hours, and then for another day in a solution of baking soda (1 tsp. Per 1 liter of warm water). Then rinse with water and leave until peeling. After such preparation, the beans emerge amicably, grows quickly and does not get sick.
I prepare the beds from the autumn. After repoing the site, I put back the compost or manure. In spring I fill up the soil with superphosphate (30 g per 1 sq. M.) And nitrofosque (100 g per 1 sq. M.).
The beans are sown by rows along a hedge or trellis, where she feels good
Next to cucumbers. It's good to plant it in the gazebo. Sowing under the cropped bottles to protect the shoots from pests. From time to time I'm airing. When the 2-3 leaflet appears, I remove the shelter. Watering 1-2 times a week, especially abundant in the budding phase and during flowering.
After harvesting, I hull the beans from the dry pods, spread for 4 days in the house in one layer for drying at 25 °. Then I fill some of the seeds in a jar and leave for sowing next year. I spread the rest of the beans on a baking sheet and for 2-3 minutes. I put in the oven warmed up to 180 °. After cooling, I spread the beans in banks. I add in each 5 cloves of garlic and 3 bay leaves with 3 sprigs of dry basil - it is stored perfectly!
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beans are of two kinds (besides decorative): vegetable and cereal. In vegetable, which is also called asparagus, pods with incompletely ripened seeds go to food.
And grain, as you might guess by its name, is eating beans themselves. They need to be peeled from the pods. At the first pods you need to freeze or make twists of them: in another form, they are not stored. But grain beans can be dried and stored for several years. And beans can be short or tall - you also need to pay attention to this when buying seeds.
beans are of two kinds (besides decorative): vegetable and cereal. In vegetable, which is also called asparagus, pods with incompletely ripened seeds go to food. And the grain, as you can guess by name, eat the beans themselves. They need to be extracted from the pods.
At the first pods you need to freeze or make twists of them: in another form, they are not stored. But grain beans can be dried and stored for several years. And beans can be short or tall - you also need to pay attention to this when buying seeds.