22 Review (s)

  1. Maria, Chelyabinsk

    I have lived in Chelyabinsk all my life. The climate here is not the most favorable, especially for growing raspberries, which I love very much. Nevertheless, I was able to adapt, and now I have several varieties on the site at once.
    I grow remontants - Zorenka Altai, Lel, Velvet and Tourmaline. I realized for myself that the most important qualities are frost resistance, high productivity and low pest damage. Varieties Novosti Kuzmina and High have not passed the test of time and did not suit me exactly according to the last characteristic. The berries of all four varieties are juicy and sweet, but Zorenka Altai is my favorite!
    Another plus: the berries on these bushes do not overripe and do not fall off for a long time - this is important, because the site is not close and there is no way to go there every day, even in summer, not to mention autumn and spring. All the bushes overwinter well, the only thing is that Tourmaline has to bend down the shoots, but these are trifles.

    In the early years, I was afraid that the plants would not overwinter, the shoots would freeze and dry. But I worried in vain - their root system is extremely stable, and every spring I watch with particular pleasure how the bushes give new strong shoots.

    Reply
  2. Nikolai CHROMOV, Cand. of sciences

    The repairer needs to be fed

    Raspberry remontant begins to bear fruit in August. Therefore, now, in addition to watering, it is important to feed the plants. In addition to superphosphate and potassium salt (1 tsp under each bush: you can put it into the soil and spill it with water, or you can dissolve it in 1-2 liters of warm water and pour the plant with this composition), prepare an infusion of mullein (1: 6) or bird droppings (1:12) - 1 liter under a bush.

    Mites may appear on raspberries at this time (the leaves begin to dry out, curl up). Treat plants with colloidal sulfur solution (90 g per bucket of water) to control pests. You can also use acaricides, only when using these preparations on remontants, be sure to read in the instructions how many days before harvesting the bushes can be sprayed.

    Reply
  3. A. BONDARENKO Krasnodar Territory

    When I was cultivating repair raspberries using conventional technology, I was not happy with two things: too late the beginning of the second fruiting and low productivity.
    Then he began to experiment with the variety Kalashnik and solved the problem successfully. I do not have the first summer harvest. Yes, it is not necessary - there are enough berries of ordinary varieties. In addition, I am opposed to raspberry treatments against diseases. And the repair raspberry is good because, having cut off the stems that have thawed to the ground level in the autumn, you completely get rid of diseases and pests.
    So, raspberries like raspberries, bushes planted after 50 cm. Fertilizers, watering, cultivation - everything is as usual. The only thing that is atypical is the trellis. It is low, with one wire at a height of 70-80 cm - I tie growing stems to it. It is easy to build a tapestry from wooden stakes.

    Raspberries do not like thickening, so I leave for 1 pog. m only 4 stems, but the strongest, the rest is constantly breaking out. If normalization is not done, the thickened raspberries reach up to 2 m and come into fruition very late, hence the low yield. And all the berries will be upstairs.
    I found a way to regulate yield and fruiting time. Moreover, productivity increased by 3-5 times, and the beginning of fruiting occurs 2-3 weeks earlier than usual. A simple agricultural technique helped. As soon as the stems reach 1 m, I count from the bottom 10 internodes and cut off the tops, that is, I limit the growth in height. After 10-15 days, lateral lateral branches begin to grow from the buds and immediately bloom violently and bear fruit. They are 1,6 meters long and longer. If the bush is strong and care is normal - all 10 laterals bear fruit, if weak - at least 4 pieces. That's where the high yield comes from.

    But we have heat in the south in July, so the quality of the berries is worse, they are smaller. We have to shift the trim to the end of July. And still the effect is amazing.
    In September-October, the berries are usually already large, high-quality. I am convinced that with remont raspberries it is possible to regulate both the fruiting time and yield.

    Reply
  4. Dmitry Petrovich HARCHEVKIN, Bryansk

    The raspberry root, dug up in November, perfectly treats all types of asthma.
    When my friend’s son was diagnosed, we treated him like this: the root was washed, ground, 1 Art. l This raw material was poured with a glass of boiling water, after which they cooked 10 minutes. It is necessary to accept on 50 ml with honey for the night for a month.
    There is another wonderful and somewhat universal home doctor - blackberry. It is not the first year in our family that its leaves have been chewing if the gums become inflamed, the decoction of the roots is used as a diuretic, and the leaves crushed into gruel are applied to the wounds. However, I like the effect of gargling with an infusion of blackberry leaves with stomatitis and purulent angiitis.
    not. For this, I take
    50 g minced
    raw materials and pour. 1 liter of boiling water, insist under the lid for about 20 minutes, after which I filter and gargle several times a day. Healing and disinfectant effect is just great!

    And against the deposition of salts in the joints will help the sunflower root. I advise you to try this tool: 2 Art. l washed and crushed specified raw material pour 1 l of water, boil 10 minutes. Drink all the broth throughout the day. Take until you feel relieved.

    Reply
  5. Vera Ilyina

    Raspberry withers the young trees. This is bad?

    Reply
    • OOO "Sad"

      You described the typical symptoms of the beginning of damage to the stems of a raspberry fly. The pest winters in the soil under the raspberry bushes, in the spring it lays eggs in the tops of the stems, the newly born larva feeds on the juicy pulp of the shoots, causing their wilting, and then these tops turn black. Young stems somewhat lagging behind in development, their productivity decreases.
      What to do? In April, blot out the soil under the raspberries with organic (humus, compost). This will make flying flies more difficult. In addition, it will improve the growth of stems and increase their productivity. Use insecticides with caution, since flying flies can coincide with the beginning of flowering raspberries.

      Reply
  6. Summerman, gardener and gardener (anonymous)

    Repair raspberries have been living with me for eight years. Summer harvest is very modest.
    Rich autumn began to ripen in the second decade of September, when cold rains were already pouring in full. The berries were red, but were sour. Five times the autumn harvest went 80 percent green under the snow. The fall of 2015 was warm and long, so the second harvest pleased the first time in six years. 5: 1 in favor of farewell to remont raspberries, but ...
    I decided to cut off the last year's shoots to the ground last spring. Several days passed and new ones appeared. The harvest on new shoots began to ripen in the second half of August, a whole month earlier! Autumn cost without Indian summer, but, despite the cool weather, raspberries continued to please big sweet berries until the first snow, and snow began to go in early November. Probably, bushes spend "forces", which were inherited in the summer by one generation of shoots.

    My conclusion is this: in the conditions of the Central band, it makes sense to grow ordinary raspberries to regale it in June-July, and repair it by cutting the shrubs under the root in spring to get an early autumn, rich, high-quality harvest.
    Natalia

    Reply
  7. Summerman, gardener and gardener (anonymous)

    Raspberries require a rather complicated care, and I have never been able to get stable crops. Until I planted raspberry remontana. Its main feature is fruiting on the shoots of the 1st year of life. That is, the painstaking work of caring for the shoots of different cycles, providing protection from pests and wintering the annuals is no longer necessary. In spring, the shoots grow from the ground, have time to bloom and give a crop, and for the winter the whole raspberry is simply cut to the root. At the same time, all pests that strive to stay for the winter on the stems, buds, inside them are also removed!

    Of course, the repair raspberry also requires care. Since she lives "a year for two," and nutrition requires a lot. When laying raspberries, it is necessary to properly clean the soil of rhizome weeds, dig it up and fill it with fertilizers to a great depth. Then the roots of raspberries will form strong, they will have a good winter and lay a lot of growth buds. The moisture should be in abundance, but without stagnation, so that the roots do not rot and do not start a disease. Therefore, in dry weather, I water the raspberry, but along the edge I have dug a groove for removing excess rainwater. And, of course, the place should be sunny, and not in the shadow of apple trees!

    Reply
  8. Olga

    Tell me, do raspberry varieties need pollinators?

    Reply
    • OOO "Sad"

      Most varieties of raspberries are self-fertilized, so they can do without assistants - special varieties as pollinators. However, cross-pollination with other varieties will increase yield. Therefore, I advise you to plant on the site raspberry 2-3-x different varieties

      Reply
  9. AI Polyukhov, Volgograd

    Heard, raspberry can suffer from sprouting. What is this disease? By what signs can it be determined?

    Reply
    • OOO "Sad"

      Growth is a dangerous infectious disease of raspberries.
      If you suspect this problem in your garden, dig out one bush and look at the roots: you will see a large number of thin dwarf shoots growing from one place, which means that the plants are infected. Berries for this disease or
      are not formed at all, or are obtained in an irregular form and are not tasteless. Cure raspberry will not work. Uproot the bushes and burn.

      Reply
  10. A. Vlaskin Moscow Region.

    Something is happening to my raspberries. In June, stalks with berries abruptly and unexpectedly turn yellow. When they cut them, I saw that inside they seemed to be filled with mounting foam. What is it and how to deal with it?

    Reply
    • OOO "Sad"

      At the raspberry shoots of the second year, the inside has a porous structure that really resembles a frozen foam, this is normal.
      This culture has superficial roots, therefore it is rather exacting to soil moisture. In droughty weather, it is recommended to water abundantly.

      Too much planting results in insufficient lighting. For the survival of the plant, several stems of the second year may die. It is necessary to observe the recommended distance between plants for each variety and the number of stems per bush.
      Lack of nitrogen nutrition also sometimes causes death of leaves and even stems.
      If you are sure that you are doing everything correctly, then pests or diseases may be possible causes of death of the stems. Outside, the stem should be flat throughout. If in the lower or middle part of the shoot swellings are visible, around which the bark is cracked, this is most likely a stem gall midge. The adult insect is black in color, about 2 cm long, with transparent wings and brownish-yellow legs. Flight is observed in June. The female lays eggs in the lower part of the young stem. Larvae are yellow-orange, up to 4 mm long. They live in a group and feed on the stem core.

      By the autumn around them tumors (galls) are formed, in which they winter. Damaged shoots in the second year wither. To destroy pests, it is necessary to cut out and immediately burn off the shoots that have been fertilized. In severe lesions, it is possible to treat young shoots with chemical preparations.
      In areas with weakly alkaline or neutral soil, bacterial diseases are possible: root raspberry and root swelling. These diseases have similar symptoms: formation of tuberous growths on the roots, cessation of growth of shoots, yellowing of leaves. Before planting seedlings, you should carefully examine the roots and cut the parts with blisters at the ends.
      E. UDALOVA, phytopathologist

      Reply
  11. I. Shaidullina city of Kazan

    The last three years, a grade of repair raspberry inaccessible disappears. The branches, as before, are strewn with ovaries, but few ripen, the berries are small, round (which is uncharacteristic of the Unattainable), inside the yellowish-white croup.

    Reply
    • OOO "Sad"

      Very few signs of illness or pest have been described, but it is possible that nothing more has been recorded. If so, then the crumbling of raspberry fruits, the change in their shape and the appearance of "yellow-white groats" inside them can speak of the result of the life of a raspberry beetle.
      Approximately at the beginning of flowering raspberries, females of a raspberry beetle lay eggs in flowers and young ovaries, the newly hatched larvae begin to eat the flesh of the berries, as a result of which they change shape, grow smaller, and the larvae's living products really look like yellow-white rump. To combat the beetle during the ripening of raspberries, plants need to be treated with any of the suitable insecticides. After harvesting the entire crop, it is desirable to repeat the treatment.
      N. Khromov, Candidate of Agricultural Sciences

      Reply
  12. Larisa BATURINA

    Collecting raspberries, worm berries I put in a separate bowl, and then pour them with salt water - the larvae float. After the fruit I rinse and cook from them jam.
    After harvesting the soil under the raspberry, I dig it with pitchforks - so I destroy the nests of pupae of larvae of a raspberry beetle. Fertilized stems and young shoots shorter than 50 cm cut.

    Reply
  13. Summerman, gardener and gardener (anonymous)

    Ripening raspberry raspberries ripen from the beginning of August and please to persistent frosts. You can prolong the raspberry pleasure on 2 weeks if you cut off branches with unripe berries, put them in water and put them in a warm room.

    Reply
  14. Alla

    I really like raspberry raspberry - it can grow shoots from scratch in one season and form a harvest on them. And that it was the maximum, I take away under the planting of raspberries a well-lit (in a calm) place. In June and July I feed bushes fermented during 1-2 weeks with an infusion of bird droppings (1: 20) or mullein (1: 10) at the rate of 3-5 l per 1 sq.m.

    I do it in warm weather and always after watering. As soon as the young shoots reach 20 cm, I thin them, leaving 4-6 shoots on the bush, and mulching with humus, peat, freshly mown grass, straw or sawdust over the overgrown manure. To increase the yield I give foliar top dressing (I sprinkle it) with fermented green infusion. I cook this way: I fill up a large container (can be a barrel) with chopped grass, tops, weed-weed, stepchildren of plants.

    To accelerate the fermentation, I add 1 / 10 part of the sod land and manure. Fill with water, cover with a lid and leave to wander for 7-10 days. Before spraying, dilute with water 1: 20. When forming the ovaries I process the bushes with a solution of the growth stimulator НВ-101 (1-2 drops on 1 l of water). This improves the yield and accelerates its maturation, the berries prefer to gain sugar.

    Reply
  15. Antonina MEDVEDEVA, art. Platnirovskaya, Krasnodar region

    We grow red and yellow raspberries in the garden.
    But there is one problem - it grows very much, is ready to fill the whole territory around.

    One good friend gave us such advice - to plant garlic next to raspberries. We tried, and indeed - the garlic row becomes a reliable barrier to the raspberry-invader. We have been using this technique for more than a year, and we kindly recall our adviser.

    Reply
  16. E. Sergeychuk Khabarovsk Territory

    What happened to my raspberries? On some shoots from the kidney leaves a bunch of thinned, almost threadlike leaves. And on the other young leaves are light, from the edges almost white.

    Reply
    • OOO "Sad"

      raspberry is most likely affected by mycoplasmal infection (sprouting, or "witch's broom"), the consequence of which is precisely the appearance of characteristic densely spaced thin shoots resembling panicles.
      The carriers of the causative agent of this disease are insects (cicadas, etc.). Raspberry bushes affected by viral-mycoplasma infections are subject to mandatory uprooting and burning. To disinfect root offspring, heat treatment is recommended, namely, heating in water at a temperature of 45 ° for 2 hours. I believe that not all planting material is infected with you, so try isolating healthy shoots. Perhaps it makes sense to buy one of the successful new products for your raspberry-large-fruited varieties with fragrant berries. L. Barilskaya,

      Reply

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