Transplant the seedlings of tomatoes in the open ground quenching and conditions

Summer menu without juicy tomatoes is simply unthinkable! So do not miss the time when seedlings need to be planted on a bed.

Every gardener knows that the tomato is a plant that is thermophilic, so we grow it through seedlings. Do you want to taste the novelty of selection? Grow "young" from seeds independently.

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Plants of traditional varieties can be purchased in garden centers. "Kolduya" over the seedlings, remember that in the greenhouse plants can be populated in the first half of May, in the open ground under the film shelter - in the second half of May - early June, and directly on the bed without any shelter - only after 10 June, when the threat of recurrent frosts passes.

However, before the "great migration" seedlings need to be adapted to new conditions. To do this, for 10-12 days before the proposed planting, start taking the containers with the plants in the garden - first for several hours, gradually increasing the time of the tomato stay under direct sunlight.

Planting young growth is desirable in the second half of the day, so that plants become accustomed to the new place for evening and night (in the cloudy weather, the time of day does not matter). When planting seedlings, fill them to the cotyledonous leaves. If the plants have outgrown and stretched out, which happens quite often, put them in a well at an incline and fill it with earth, covering the stem at 1 / 3 length.

The main conditions for good flowering and fruiting tomatoes - sunlight, heat and dry air.

If one of the conditions is not enough, tomatoes will be weakened and quickly fall victim to the main scourge of tomatoes - phytophthora, a ruthless fungal disease.

To keep your wards healthy, do not drop them too thick - then they will dry up faster from the dew and after the rain, and also cut off all the leaves below the fruit brush. Water the plants rarely, but abundantly, trying not to fall on the leaves.

Of course, for prevention, you can also use spraying with fungicides.

To do this, somewhere in 5 days after planting, treat the tomatoes with a drug against phytophthora (such treatments should preferably be 2-3 per season). We also recommend you to choose varieties that are relatively resistant to phytophro rose: Honey saved, Orange miracle with yellow fruits, Burzhuy1 F1 / Dubrava1 - with red.

Our heroes are plants with excellent appetite, so plant the seedlings on a composted garden.

If you do not have time or forgot to sprinkle the soil with organic nutrients, during planting in each hole, pour a special fertilizer for tomatoes, mixing it with the ground at the bottom of the hole. A few weeks after planting, new settlers should be fed.

Re-feed! bushes in the period of mass formation of fruits. A good fertilizer for fertilizing is considered diluted with water 1: 10 nettle brew, which watered tomatoes 1 times in 2 weeks.

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1. Harvest time depends on the variety. In this case, it is advisable to remove red fruits fully ripened (then they are especially fragrant), and yellow, purple and brown stripes - a little immature (then they have a more pronounced fruity note).

2. By the number of chambers and seeds in them, you can determine the quality of tomatoes: less fibrous and the most pulp-rich flesh in small-sized fruit with a small number of seeds, such as in the Orange sort.

3. 'Poire Jaime' bred in France. This tall bush tomato reaches 2,5 m in height and gives an abundant crop of yellow pear-shaped fruits. Domestic tomatoes 'Truffle yellow' (large-fruited) and 'Honey drop' of cherry) fruits also look like a pear.

4. Tall tomatoes are more convenient to tie not to individual pegs, but to a crossbar installed over planted plants.

5. Blurred green spots near the stalks indicate that the fruits received a sunburn. This is more susceptible to tomatoes of the old varieties, such as 'Bull Heart'. Modern varietal plants are more resistant.

6. Cherry tomatoes can be grown both on a garden bed and in a pot with a volume of at least 35 l.

7. Tomatoes are best in the greenhouse or in the greenhouse. Important: the "house" of the lord of Tomato must be constantly ventilated, drafts of the plant are not afraid.

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Watering, pasynkovanie and top dressing of tomatoes

ERRORS IN POLISH TOMATOES

Frequent watering leads to watery taste of fruits and growth of additional roots. The high humidity of the soil near the bush is almost always the cause of blight and other diseases.

Uneven watering of the bush from above - the fruits crack. A disease such as vertebral rot begins.

If the water gets into the fruit, the trunk of the bush and leaves with each watering, this can be the cause of the development of fungal diseases.

HOW TO CORRECTLY THREAT TOMATOES

Irrigation should be carried out at the root, so that water does not fall on the part of the plant.

Irrigation should be not frequent, but abundant.

For tomatoes, one of the most effective irrigation methods is drip.

FEEDING TOMATOES - SEVERAL ADVICEВ

The main period for fertilizing is from the period of pickling the seedlings to the beginning of flowering.

Seedling after picking and before the formation of the ovaries it is desirable to feed the full composition of mineral fertilizers. But after the beginning of fruiting, it is desirable to carry out fertilizing with potassium fertilizers.

But there are some nuances after the feeding, which can not be forgotten. After abundant mineral fertilization, active growth of shoots begins.

Since in tomato shoots can grow in each axillary leaf, on each new shoot is a bookmark of brushes with fruits. In the initial stage of growth, we call these shoots the stepsons. If all the stepchildren leave, the bush will thicken and branch.

This will happen: there will be a lot of ovaries and fruits, there will not be enough food for everyone, and the fruits will be small, and often sick and ugly. To prevent this from happening, we carry out stepsoning. Remove stepchildren before they go to height, up to 5 cm in length. But it’s more efficient to remove stepchildren 2-3 cm in size - removing small stepsons does not harm the plant.

© Author: Nikolai Gavryushkin, Perm

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Planting seedlings in the open ground - my advice

Planting tomato seedlings in the ground is not such a simple process as it seems. Let's consider it in more detail.

T. Lee the gardener, Irkutsk

TERMINATION TIME

There are general requirements for planting seedlings in the ground. Plant the plants when the threat of frost passes and the earth warms up to 13-15 ° C

IMPORTANT

The optimal age of seedlings of early tomatoes for planting is 45-50 days.

By this time, the seedlings should be strong, healthy, not overgrown, not blooming, and even more so, without an ovary to a depth of at least a palm.

In different regions this time differs.

PLACE AND SOIL

Tomatoes are heat-loving plants, and it is best to place them in an open, sunny place. The earth should be nutritious and loose, lumpy - this gives the plant the opportunity to breathe and eat well.

The basis of the soil consists of garden land, humus, ash, rotten sawdust, turf and leaf earth, a little peat, a milled egg shell. All this makes the soil moist and heat-consuming.

SCREAMING OF THE SITTING

Before the tomatoes are planted permanently, they should be hardened. A week before, tomatoes need to be put out every day for half an hour in a greenhouse, on a veranda, on a balcony so that they can adapt to the conditions of the natural environment.

PREPARATION OF THE MOON

We prepare the soil and plant the seedlings according to the method of natural farming. All the soil in the allotted area for tomatoes is not necessary to dig! The grown grass should simply be cut off, leaving roots in the ground. The grass is then used as mulch.

By the way

It is advisable to prit seedlings - cover with a newspaper, dry grass, pull on the veil, etc.

Forge to loosen the soil - each hole individually or immediately in a row. To scoop up the soil for the 10 cm hole, add all the necessary additives (see above), pour warm water. Allow the water to go into the ground, place the tomatoes and sprinkle with earth.

MULCHING

On top of the ground lay mulch (lightly chopped dried air weed, cardboard, leaves). How is it useful?

• Mulch does not allow pests to reach the surface of the soil, creates comfortable conditions for plants and insures against phytophthora
• When rotting, mulch improves soil structure (makes it cloddy) and creates a nutrient microflora, which is so necessary for plants.
• Reduces watering, which facilitates labor to care for plants and does not allow the land to dry out during a drought.
• The lower layer keeps cool, and the upper layer, which is more friable, lets in heat. Due to the temperature difference there is dew, which maintains moisture and releases you from watering.
• The bottom layer of mulch should be about 10 cm and be crushed, and the top layer can be anything: tops, grass - everything that is in the garden. Mulch should be added to the plants gradually.

DISTANCE

When planting tomatoes in the ground, you need to observe the distance between the plants. It depends on the shape of the bush.

If the varieties are early, sparse and compact, the distance between them can be 35 cm, and if the variety has large and lush bushes, then the distance is not less than 50 cm between them.

I wish you pleasant planting and a rich harvest!

Council

To relieve stress in plants, when transplanting, it should be sprayed in the morning or evening or sprayed with Zircon (according to instructions).

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TRANSMISSION OF TOMATO-POMDIOR SEEDLING IN AN OPEN SOIL - TIPS AND REVIEWS OF RESIDENTS ABOUT EXPERIENCE

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TOMATOES ON WHEAT FIELD

Today only the most lazy does not plant green manure on vegetable beds. But, it turns out, there are situations when these green helpers do not require planting - they sprout themselves. Yes, how!

Inheritance from usastik

In our magazine, beloved by all gardeners, many stories have been described about planting tomato seedlings. Let me share my experience. To begin with, my husband recently started breeding rabbits and placed some of the cells with them for the winter in a polycarbonate greenhouse. With the onset of sustained spring heat, the cells moved back into the fresh air, and I began to prepare for the planting of tomatoes.

After the eared birds, a decent layer of organic matter appeared on the ground in the greenhouse, which was a mixture of their vital activity products spilled out of the cells, half-eaten hay and pieces of vegetables, as well as wheat grains scattered everywhere, which were included in the diet of rabbits. In mid-April, I washed the walls and ceiling with water, to which I added baking soda and laundry soap, and with great pleasure I evenly scattered rabbit “gifts” across the greenhouses, anticipating how to be happy with such feeding tomatoes.

A day later, she evenly sprinkled the beds with ashes, leveled the straw with a rake and began to lightly dig everything lightly. Realizing that wheat grains can germinate, I tried to choose them, but this process turned out to be extremely laborious. In addition, I realized that the cleaned grain, I still do not collect. She sighed and patched up the remaining organic matter. But! Only half of the total cultivated area in the greenhouse was subjected to this treatment.

Indeed, on the same day I realized a long-held dream - with the help of a rake I picked up a bag of last year’s grass on a nearby meadow, which was still slightly damp after the snow melted (therefore it was not difficult to collect it) and spread it all on uncovered parts of greenhouse beds. And for two days, she left everything as it is, only in the afternoon wide open the doors of the greenhouse for drying and airing.

On April 20, she sowed a little radish, lettuce, flowers for seedlings, onions for greens, and April cucumbers in the greenhouse, covering each sprinkled seed with cut tops from half bottles. And again, she took up the already dried meadow grass in the beds - not particularly zealous, chopped it with a hatchet, which my husband had specially put in the greenhouse for this: when you chop the grass on the street, it is carried away by the wind. With the resulting precious mulch, I lightly dusted the ground around the seeded cucumbers for warming.

Then she moved on to the main task - she began to gradually plant tomato seedlings, which, by the way, I grew in cardboard boxes. During this operation, I noticed that my fears were not in vain: wheat grains mixed with ground had already hatched, preparing to sprout actively soon. I, as I could, again began to choose them from the earth, did it from despair - after all, it was already impossible to get rid of them. Well, I gave free rein to my hands and calmed down a bit.

Seedling tomatoes, I mulched with a thin layer of meadow hay the ground around them. At the same time, she hoped that it would be possible to easily remove the sprouted wheat as soon as it became green. But we assume, and God disposes. It so happened that I left the country house for a month, and when I returned, a very “interesting” picture appeared before my eyes: wheat on rabbit fertilizers, covered with mulch, waved to my waist and densely spiked, and the pale tomato seedlings remained somewhere below, losing a neighbor’s battle for the sun ...

And in my greenhouse I got a whole wheat field, which happily waved in the wind with the doors open. From the side it might have seemed that I consciously achieved this, very even and thick were overgrown with this C-derat. The spouse in my absence, of course, was engaged in watering from a hose of greenhouse plants (in every telephone conversation I reminded him of this), but he didn’t have time and effort, especially since this is usually my prerogative.

The roots of wheat so tightly entangled everything around that when pulling out the stems, I inadvertently pulled out a lot of tomatoes. I had to dig them in, and this time deeper than they had grown before. But I had to say goodbye to early cucumbers: without proper care at the beginning of the growing season, their stems became thin and dead. It is clear that such plants do not promise a good harvest and only in vain take a place in the greenhouse. In short, in spite of the fact that time at that time was already scarce, I had to pretty tinker in the greenhouse. Unfortunately, I didn’t take a picture of the wheat field in the greenhouse for the story - before that I was about ...

But, looking ahead, I will say that as a result, the bushes of tomatoes grew very worthy and generously thanked me for the excellent harvest of tasty and large fruits!

And for myself, I made this conclusion: this spring I will not rush to plant tomato seedlings in the greenhouse - I will wait until the spilled wheat grains (my husband kept rabbits there again in the winter) will sprout and turn green. And then I will turn the earth gently with layers, so that the roots of the wheat are at the top. And only after that I start planting seedlings, spreading these layers and then laying them out in pieces from above: if everything is mixed, the wheat will germinate again.

Hopefully, tomatoes under this organic shelter will feel even better. In addition, other important inhabitants of the greenhouse will like it very much - useful to worms.

© Author: Rina Akhmetova, Ufa

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Seedling asks for garden beds

Every year spring comes at different times, therefore, planting of tomato seedlings is done differently. But I try to land until mid-May, if, of course, the weather is favorable.

Soil preparation

The soil is starting to cook in the fall. I bring in coarse sand for digging at the rate of a bucket on 1 square. m. If your site sandy soil, do not need to. Next, add lime-fluff (500-700 g per 1 sq. M) to reduce the level of acidity, compost or rotted manure (5-7 kg per sq. M).

In the spring I scatter mineral fertilizers (for 1 tbsp of ammonium nitrate and potassium sulphate, 3 tsp of superphosphate per 1 sq. M), enclosing them in the soil to a depth of 15-20, see the beds forming beds the day before planting. Usually their width is 120 cm, and height is 15-20 cm. Holes make 2 rows at a distance of 35-40 cm in a row, with an inter-row 55-60 cm.

Landing

I plant tomato seedlings in the evening or in cloudy weather. For 2 hours before this, I pour water on the soil in tanks. So earthen room when transplanting does not fall apart. I dig the seedlings to the first pair of true leaves. Overgrown plants soot "reclining", directing the roots to the south. At the end of this work I irrigate abundantly and put a peg near each bush, to which I will later tie up grown tomatoes.

Care

After planting, the seedlings should adapt to new conditions within 5-10 days. During this period, I do not water it and do not bring any additional fertilizing. When the seedlings take root, I start watering - about once a week (in hot weather, more often) 3 l under each bush. I do not water the soil, but focus on the state of seedlings and soil. I water only at the root, since when sprinkling, the risk of developing diseases increases. I do this in the evening, and the next morning I must loosen the soil to a depth of 5 cm. I do the same after the rain.

We do the weeding until the beds are covered with mulch. When I see that the seedlings have taken root, the surface of the beds is covered with hay or grass with a layer around 10. This will prevent the soil from overheating and retain moisture. Even in the hottest weather under the mulch, the ground is cool and slightly damp. This is especially important during the fruiting period. Even the weeds do not grow.

I spend the first top dressing not earlier than 10 days after planting. To do this, I use 0,5 liters of liquid mullein and 15 of nitrophos, diluted in 10 liters of water. Under each root pour out 0,5 l solution. I spend all root top-dressings of tomatoes only after plentiful watering.

Council

As soon as the fruits of tomatoes become the size of a cherry, it is necessary to remove the leaves on the bushes before the first tier so that they do not take food from the fruits.

© Author: Nikolai Dmitrievich ERMIKOV, Bryansk

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PLANTING TOMATO SEEDLINGS IN OPEN SOIL - VIDEO

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