Tomato cultivation - planting and care (Tomsk region)
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Allowance for tomato lovers
Tomatoes contain a powerful antioxidant - lycopene. This natural substance has an anti-cancer effect, preventing DNA mutations and the growth of tumor cells. Lycopene is better absorbed with vegetable oil, keep this in mind when preparing salads.
Kohl talked about the agrotechnics of tomatoes, I will bring my experience to the collective treasury of knowledge.
Secrets of the ground for the tomatoes
Each new garden season begins with seedlings. It requires seedlings, seeds and the Lunar calendar (I issue an annual subscription, so I always get a calendar as a gift, thank you). So, the ground. Often there are recommendations: calcine the earth, scald, spill potassium permanganate ... I do it differently.
I make a substrate of several components, which I harvest from the fall and store it on an unheated loggia.
A month before the crops (in February), after holding the components for several days in the heat, I begin to prepare the soil. On the 10-liter can of vegetable garden I add 2 l sawdust, still treated with urea solution, 1 l humus, 1 l peat peat (it is lighter and airier than low peat), 2 l sand, 1 glass chalk, 1 glass of ash and half a glass of microbiological preparation effective microorganisms sown on bran). You can add any other biopreparation. The entire mixture is moistened with a solution of the biological product or melt water. Stir the mixture thoroughly.
I must say that I like this activity - mix the earth, hold it in my hands, exhale its smell. The soil I am preparing should be moist, but crumbly. I lay it in opaque bags, tie it tightly and leave it in the corridor (warm). In a month he is ready. Microorganisms did their job: recycled organics, destroyed pathogenic microbes. For all the time of using such soil, my seedlings never hurt a black leg!
Caring for the seeds of a tomato
Seyu basically own seeds. How to get them, well described TV. Kovalev in his letter "Three brave and tomato tree" (No. 7, 2016). Scientists have found out that 80% of vegetable crop diseases are transmitted through seeds and only 20% through soil, so all tomato seeds, both their own and purchased, must be disinfected.
Personally, I use heat treatment: it is considered the most reliable way. Soak the seeds in hot water (50-52 °) for 30 minutes. in a thermos, then in a solution of a biostimulant, and sow. Before sowing, the soil in the tank must be properly compacted, otherwise the seeds will fall deep and will sprout for a long time. I am expanding the windowsill with boards from old furniture, on top I put heat-insulating plates (insulation).
As soon as the eyelets of the shoots appear, I put them on the windowsill and turn on the backlight. To do this, I hang a fluorescent lamp on the curtain rail. I highlight 14-16 hours per day. Dive seedlings with one or two real leaves in 200-gram glasses. When they grow up, I pass into 1 liter containers (I cut two-liter packages from under the juice in half). With the onset of nocturnal plus temperatures, seedlings are placed on the loggia, on the heater.
Watering is rare, only when it completely dries up the surface of the soil.
Seedlings water more often, but do not flood. I feed them with humate, and seedlings with a daily infusion of ash (1-2 tbsp. Per 1 liter of water). Once every two weeks I water with a solution of effective microorganisms. With the appearance of 5-6 leaves, two to three times (according to instructions), I water the growth regulator, which stops the growth of the aerial part and enhances the growth of the root system. Seedlings become strong, stocky.
See also: Tomatoes - planting and care from A to Z
Microorganisms on guard
I've been preparing the greenhouse since autumn. Small potatoes after harvesting the ruble, poured into plastic tanks, add other waste and biopreparations. Approximately a month later I remove the tops of tomatoes, spread the waste on the beds, add humus and dig it is shallow. The work of microorganisms continues until frost. In the spring of the bed I loosen, again watering with solution of effective microorganisms, sow cabbage, radishes, lettuce, and in free places - mustard. By the time of transplanting, the first crop is already harvested.
I dig out the holes, pour out a handful of ash, a pinch of superphosphate, mix with the ground, add compost. In each hole, pour 2 l of warm water (specially heated to 35-40 °). When the water is absorbed, pour for another 1 l of warm water with a biofungicide. I do not use copper sulfate and manganese for disinfecting the earth: this function is performed by microorganisms and biofungicide.
When planting seedlings I put in the well a biofungicide tablet that protects against root rot. Planted seedlings are watered under the root with warm water and a humate. Next watering days through 10-12.
Bottle Cylinders
Immediately after disembarkation, I dig in between the plants plastic bottles with a neck cut off the bottom. I make holes near the neck in several places, I cover the bottles halfway and then water and feed them through these bottles. All the season every two weeks I water with herbal infusions with bioremedium.
On the planted plants I put on the cylinders from the plastic bottles cut off from both sides, I squeeze them into the ground, after two weeks I will pour the humus there and then water them too. Earth mulch. Thanks to the watering in the bottles, the surface of the mulch is always dry. Through the open four doors the greenhouse is well blown by drafts, it is always dry. Leaves cut off only the lower ones and those that start to turn yellow.
Why are the crops worse?
During the four years of the new greenhouse's existence, the biggest harvest was in the first year. Then the twines supporting the stems, tied to a taut wire, broke off under the weight of the fruit. In the same year, I began to actively use the backlight when growing seedlings and effective microorganisms when preparing seedlings and for watering during the season.
But the cylinders of bottles, I began to apply in the following years. Then, too, it was a sin to take offense at the crops, but it was not so stunning. As they say, draw conclusions. The influence of lighting and effective microorganisms on crops is difficult to challenge, but with the influence of the cylinders, everything is not clear.
This fall, removing the tops of tomatoes, I noticed that the additional roots formed in the soil of the cylinders did not become deeper, they also had enough power and moisture here. If you do not water the cylinders, you do not need them. You can just bite and do not water under the root (for this there are bottles), but it is necessary to make a mess. Then the adventitious roots formed in the hillocks will be forced to grow in depth, extracting moisture and nutrition in the lower layers of the soil.
In the next season I'll test my hypothesis.
Reference by topic: Growing rare and collectible varieties of tomatoes - tips for growing and caring
Kinds of tomatoes that I recommend for the Tomsk region
I want to talk a little about the varieties. I plant precisely varieties, not hybrids, only about 20, 52 plants are placed in the greenhouse. I look at the varieties for two or three years, then either leave or delete from my collection, add new ones. Invariable among them: Eternal Call, Sugar Pudovik, Cardinal, Giant, Cosmonaut Volkov, Miracle of the Earth and my favorite fail-safe variety Buffalo Heart - the earliest and sweetest.
There were interesting cases. I plant a grade of two, or even three, but it does not show the declared qualities-fruits are not so large, not so sweet. Since there are many varieties, each planting two or three plants, a packet of purchased seeds is enough for two or three years. Then I sow my seeds, and then the variety seems to open, all of its best qualities are revealed. I take on the seeds the largest fruits from the most productive bushes.
Even the size of my seeds differs from the purchased ones - they are much larger. That's how I opened The Giant, the Cardinal, the Miracle of the Earth, about which there were many laudatory reviews, but he did not want to manifest me for a long time.
I also plant low-growth varieties in the open ground Klusha, Fighter, EM-Champion. Sowing seeds in April, planting in June in the ground so that return frosts do not capture. Several times I met positive reviews about the Labrador variety, and began to look for it in stores. I bought it, brought it home, looked carefully - it turned out Leopold F1.
On the bag it says that it is very fruitful. Planted three bushes, it turned out - however, the manufacturer did not deceive. All bushes were studded with round fruits 3-5 cm in diameter. Even the leaves were almost invisible! The fruits ripened before the rest and were very sweet, went well fresh and pickled.
"Macular" method of growing a tomato
This year, the method of splicing the stems of two plants was applied. During the picks, planted two plants of varieties Miracle of the Earth and the Heart of a buffalo. In the grown up, they cleared the stems, connected them, tied them up.
When planting seedlings, I cut one crown at a time and put them in a glass of water - it was a pity to throw it away. A few days later, roots appeared at the tops. There was no place in the greenhouse, and when the roots grew to 4-5 cm, I planted them on a free patch between the bushes of peonies.
In the holes I put only a handful of compost. The place is sunny, but since peony bushes grew around, at first the tomatoes were not even visible, so I often just forgot about them. But one day they caught my eye, and I gasped - my tops waved above a meter, the stems were thick, and on them there were clusters of large fruits: the largest was 570 g, the others were slightly smaller. True, they began to ripen only before frosts.
The most interesting thing is that plants of the same varieties in the greenhouse produced smaller fruits, and those doubled, from which I cut the top of the head, did not stand out at all - neither the thickness of the stems, nor the size of the fruits. Maybe I did something wrong.
And from the "maqushechnyh" bushes I took tomatoes on the seeds, I'll see what will turn out of them. Photos are taken 11 September, before the last collection. Photographed by the son-in-law, he is a connoisseur of my tomatoes. He takes them fishing, treats them to friends, and then tells me how friends ate and praised their taste.
© Author: Valentina Aleksandrovna Sageeva Tomsk
Below other entries on the topic "Dacha and garden - with their own hands"
- Comparison of growing the same tomatoes in a greenhouse and open field - reviews
- Growing soil tomatoes in the Tula region - planting and care
- The same varieties of tomatoes in the greenhouse and open ground - comparison (Moscow region)
- Heart-shaped tomato - better varieties, description, name and photo
- Cultivation of tomatoes Auria and Eros - my reviews about varieties
- Dwarf tomatoes (gnomes) - name and my reviews
- Growing tomatoes in the Novosibirsk region - planting and care, my advice
- New varieties of tomato - my reviews, photos and description
- Growing self-sowing of tomatoes and their subwinter seeding - my reviews
- Growing tomatoes in the Orenburg region - tips for planting and avoiding experienced
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Many of us are faced with the problem of emptiness on tomatoes, when with abundant flowering the ovary is almost not formed. What should be done to avoid this?
To begin with, do not rush to plant tomatoes in open ground - this is not a greenhouse where you can create a favorable temperature (about 25 degrees). Before planting seedlings, make sure that the air temperature at night does not drop below 15-17 degrees. Hypothermia can adversely affect the development of the plant.
Tomatoes should always be well watered, in any case do not allow the drying and cracking of the soil-this can lead to the complete withering of the ovaries.
In a heat with a temperature above 35 degrees, try to maintain the humidity. Usually, in the mornings, when the sun does not burn, I go and sprinkle the beds with tomatoes with cool water, and in the evening, when the sun is not at "zenith", I repeat the same procedure.
And another thing I would like to note: do not buy chemical stimulators of ovary formation. If you want something to spray plants, take the usual boric acid, dilute 10 g in 10 l water, stir and spray. The result will be impressive, as boron stimulates the formation of ovaries and, thereby, increases the yield by 20-30%. In addition, this microelement is completely harmless. And, of course, do not forget about timely feeding.