7 Review (s)

  1. Yulia MATVEYCHUK

    Irisu ensata to be)

    Often when buying planting material of Japanese iris (Iris ensata) leaves much to be desired, and the plants disappear in the first year. I choose delenki with large, powerful rhizomes. It will not be superfluous to make sure that the variety is sufficiently frost-resistant for the region.
    I plant in the spring in a sunny place in slightly acidic soil (preferably in loam). The culture responds well to mulching with small bark, coniferous litter.
    The flowers of Japanese irises are very large. Appear in the summer. But, like all irises, they do not please for long: depending on the weather - 1 -5 days. However, I am in no hurry to cut the peduncle - after the first one, the next bud may bloom on it. I just gently break the wilted flower out of the protective cover. It may seem that the ensata iris is unpretentious - it practically does not affect diseases and pests. But it happens that you can't wait for a "carnival of colors" from him. Why?

    According to my observations, it's all about insufficient watering before and during flowering. It will not happen if the weather is dry at the beginning of July and the plant lacks moisture. Iris released flower arrows? Without proper watering, they will dry out or the flower will not open properly. Therefore, the water regime is first of all.

    Siberian irises: American varieties (photo + title + description)

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  2. Natalia KARKACHEVA

    My garden has long been decorated with Ideal Dutch irises with graceful xiphoid ribbed leaves. And how spectacularly they bloom!
    I dig up iris bulbs every 5 years and transplant them to a new location. I propagate with baby bulbs. I plan to plant in mid-autumn, in October. Pre-process the bulbs with a solution of the fungicide "Maxim" (according to the instructions). I choose only sunny places for flowers: I noticed for a long time that when there is a lack of lighting, irises intensively grow their leaves, and there are few buds. I pour good drainage into each hole with a layer of 5 cm (for example, expanded clay), since without it, plants often rot and get sick. I spill the holes with water, wait for it to be absorbed, and only then I lower the bulbs to a depth of 10 cm at a distance of 10-15 cm from each other. Then I water it again, sprinkle it with earth and mulch with dry sawdust.

    FOR THE NOTICE
    When buying Spanish and English iris bulbs, keep in mind that they bloom a little later - in the middle of summer. And unlike the Dutch, they are more capricious: after flowering and wilting of foliage, they need to be dug up and planted again in the fall, and in the middle lane they should also be covered for the winter.

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  3. Irina Razumova, St. Petersburg

    I had a beautiful curtain of irises in the garden, but this year I noticed that they blossomed worse, and in the middle the bush began to somehow grow bald. What happens if it's a disease, then what? How is it treated?

    Reply
    • OOO "Sad"

      It's okay, we assume, with your irises is not happening. They just grew too big, and it's time to share them. Do it best in late July or early August.

      The bush must be dug up whole and chopped into several pieces. Sprinkle places of slices with crushed coal. Dead parts of the bush can be thrown away, and the remaining delenki should be planted faster - the roots of Siberian and Japanese irises do not like overdrying.

      But the roots of bearded irises in the division are allowed to dry for several hours in the air.

      Reply
  4. Olga Kuptsova, city of Brest

    Before flowering, some buds of irises rotted and never bloomed. What is the reason?

    Reply
    • OOO "Sad"

      It looks like a manifestation of gray rot, which can affect flowers. The disease is caused by two varieties of fungus. The first affects the stems and ends of the leaves with high humidity. The leaves become discolored, then turn brown and rot, becoming covered in a gray bloom.
      The second species of fungus causes dry rot of rhizomes. On the affected rhizomes formed black folded piles consisting of fungal bodies. Rot can spread to the base of the leaves, where a gray coating is formed. The development of the disease contributes to high humidity, excess nitrogen in the soil, mechanical damage and freezing rhizomes. What to recommend?

      When planting irises, choose a ventilated solar area, arrange drainage of the soil. It is important that in the earth there is no shortage of phosphorus and calcium. The rhizomes before planting are pickled (in pink solution of potassium permanganate). When symptoms of the disease appear, spray plants with a solution of any fungicide.

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  5. Tatiana Mikhailovna Fedorova

    Iris sibirica
    Description. The rhizome is up to 80 in height. In recent years, new interesting varieties have appeared with different colors of flowers - pink, purple, cream-yellow, white, and in some they do not even look like iris. Blooms in June for two weeks (some varieties bloom for a month).
    Agrotechnics. Unlike the bearded iris, which are complex in care, and. Siberian and its varieties are quite unpretentious. He perfectly winters in the middle of Russia. Needs an open, sunny area with a normally hydrated, nutritious soil. Poorly tolerates strong hydration. In one place can grow without transplantation and division during 10 years, some specimens with careful care grow without transplantation and 25 years.
    Reproduction. It reproduces by dividing the rhizomes (from mid-August to the end of September). Using. The main ornament of the plant - flowering, adult shrubs of modern varieties can "give" up to 200 flowers per season! Irish Siberian can be used for landing in a mix-borer. It looks beautiful against the background of the lawn. If you break out the peduncles at the beginning of the dissolution of flowers, they will stand in the water for a week, and if the room is cool, then longer.

    iris-sibirskii-foto

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