How to buy roses in winter and keep them until summer

Beginning in February practically in all large shops, plant seedlings are put up for sale, in which the root system is placed in cellophane film with peat or with sawdust mixed with sand. In bright high boxes or in packages raspberries on the shelves, gooseberry honeysuckle, clematis-there are a lot of things. These plants are very inexpensive.

I regularly buy roses on such sales, which we then plant at the dacha. These seedlings formed the basis of our rosary, in which more than two dozen roses are already growing, and we think that it's time to round off their acquisition, because a large number of bushes are difficult to cover for the winter.

When I buy roses in winter or early spring, gardeners and gardeners often do not know the technique of choosing and preserving such planting material, and they sincerely try to warn against wasting money. For example, in a queue at the cash register, one lady looks at my rose from a Serbian nursery, shakes her head sympathetically and says: "Imported roses ... They do not survive here, everyone will freeze out in winter."

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Why such confidence that it will freeze ?!

We have been buying imported roses for five years in a row, and 90% got acclimated! And our site in the most that neither is on the middle band of Russia - in the Vladimir region.

Remarkably proved themselves in our conditions roses from Serbia, grow no worse than ours, and blossom twice during the summer. And we bought miniature, and polyanthus, and ordinary park.

Get accustomed, though not without problems, roses produced in Hungary. They, in contrast to the Serbian, are often very short cut off the central roots (the Serbs try to fold the roots neatly, and if they cut it, they leave the order of 20-25 cm).

therefore Hungarian roses for acclimatization required all summer, in the first year they may not blossom. German and English we do not take because of their high cost. It has not turned out so far only with high park roses from Latvia, but I do not exclude that it was simply unsuccessfully chosen a place for their planting.

In fact, if you correctly prepared a rose for the winter, that is, in a timely manner made potash and phosphorus fertilizers, plunged it in September and October, removed the unseasoned shoots, and then the leaves were covered with lapnik, and from above with a spunbond in the 2-3 layer, but she still died, then, most likely, your rose did not get cold, but got out. It is very important to inspect your site in winter and early spring, to notice where the snow blows, and where in the spring water accumulates, and there roses do not place. Roses like a sheltered from the winds, a sunny place with rich soil, better somewhere higher. Plant, fertilize, and you will succeed!

And people think that it is impossible to take roses, on which the kidneys went to growth, because they supposedly do not live to land in the ground. This is also a profound error. Roses are covered with paraffin, you can not assess the state of stems, roots - especially. How to choose a strong and healthy plant?

I always take plants with buds. I choose such, where there are many, it is better even if there are already expressed sprouts. But again, the future twigs should be plump and sturdy, do not take lean and long gnawing. The rose with straight, long, often drooping shoots woke up under the influence of excessive heat, but without sufficient light and power, it quickly exhausts its forces and will not grow well in the future.

A home-grown plant with sprouts will perfectly survive until summer on glazed balcony or terrace, where the positive temperature is kept and enough light. For example, the balcony is not insulated, but the glazing is double, and now, when there is a small negative on the street, the temperature on it varies within 6-14 ° С. Balcony - it's important, roses bought in winter can not be stored in a heated room, there is not only too hot, but also insufficient humidity.

Rose need immediately transplanted into a special primer for roses, that is fertile soil with a neutral reaction. It should be picked up a large pot: for miniature roses - at least 2 liters, 19 cm in diameter, for others - even more. Suitable narrow and high pots, you can use temporary plastic (they do not need drainage), in general, choosing a pot, look at the volume of roots.

When transplanting, be very careful when removing the shipping ground! Do not brush it to the end to Do not damage already grown over new tender roots. If transportation was carried out in the ground (peat), and not in sawdust with sand, it is better to soak the rose in water before transplanting. Deepen the rose so that it gently covers the ground with the vaccine site.

Ground for reliability can be shed phytosporin (no more than 1 a spoonful per 1 l of water, allow the solution to infuse according to the instructions), but, in principle, I had no problems with the special primer. I also add vermiculite to the soil.

Do not put a rose directly to the glass or to the floor, it can be cold. It is better to place it on a shelf or on a table, put a sheet of thick corrugated cardboard or a bubble wrap under the pots.

Paraffin wax from the stems at first time is undesirable, because you risk damaging the undeveloped kidneys. That's when the new branches grow well, and the paraffin turns pale and begins to exfoliate, it can be cleaned neatly.

In the winter, water your roses very moderately, do not allow stagnation of moisture - cold and moist soil provokes the development of fungal infections. With the onset of heat, carefully watch that the soil in the pot does not dry out, fertilize, temper (opening the balcony), shade on sunny days - and then at the beginning of the pet you will bring to the cottage a well-formed bush that you have bloomed in this year.

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Dacha with their own hands > Flowers - planting and care > Roses: Growing and Care > Winter purchase of seedlings of roses and their storage before planting

4 Review (s)

Lilia Drobyshevskaya
28/05/2018 (12:56) #

Rose seedlings came, which they ordered for the new season.

How to save them before landing?

- OOO "Sad"
  28/05/2018 (12:57) #
  
  They should be at a temperature not higher than + 5 degrees, in order to inhibit their development. You can put the seedling in a bag with holes and store in the vegetable compartment in the refrigerator. For reliability, bushes with open roots are laid on a slightly damp cloth or newspaper with a layer of slightly moistened sphagnum and wrapped in roots. Shoots are also wrapped with a damp cloth, and on top - with a food film. Once a week, check the condition of the planting material, lightly sprinkling the roots with water. When the snow comes down and the earth warms up to the depth of the earthy clod of the seedling, roses can be planted in the garden. Do not be afraid, that early. Kustik will begin to wake up already on the spot and get used to the new conditions. But be sure to cover it with a double layer of spunbond from recurrent frosts.
  You can fold the seedlings in a warmed cardboard box and cover with peat or vermiculite. The box is well wrapped and put the apartment on the balcony by the warm wall. Even if here-10-15 degrees, in the box there will be -2-3 degrees. This is the optimum temperature for sleeping roses.
  
  And the easiest way is to pry the seedlings into the snow. After breaking the long sprouts, they put the planting material in a cardboard box, fill it with peat or earth, close it and wrap it with lutrasil. In the most shady place where the snow lies the longest and there is no stagnation of water, dig a hole in the snow (as deep as possible) and put the box, well falling asleep with snow. Even severe frost is not terrible for them.
  
Angelina Eremina, Kaluga region.
14/07/2017 (17:41) #

What kind of roses are not offered in nurseries and horticultural stores! Recently I heard about some sort of polyanth roses. What kind of a kind is this? What are the characteristics of care? Can they be grown in the Kaluga region?

- OOO "Sad"
  14/07/2017 (17:41) #
  
  A polyanth rose is a group of varieties obtained by crossing a multiflorous rose (R. multiflora) with a Chinese rose (R. chinensis). The polyanthic varieties in France have been brought to light by the famous originator of the Guillot roses in 1873. In size, the bush of a polyanthus rose is similar to ground cover (on average 40-60 cm), this quality allows using it as curb. The beautiful baby from other groups has a large number of branches, covered with thick, shiny foliage, large inflorescences, at least 20 (small or medium, diameter 3-5 cm), and more often 120 flowers in one inflorescence. Outwardly they resemble a rose floribundu, there are varieties of terry and half-marble, the colors of the buds are often pink, red, sometimes white. But yellow colors for typical polyanthus roses are not typical.
  
  The most remarkable thing is that the polyants blossom abundantly from June to frosts, they are unpretentious in care, winter hardiness, most varieties are practically not sick. When freezing the bush is able to recover from the radical buds.
  For winter in the northern regions, a polyanthus rose is covered with lapnik and nonwoven material. Pruning is necessary rather sanitary and thinning.
  Regular feeding is needed - the bush is actively growing and blooming for a long time, so it needs a lot of nutrients over the season. Many varieties of polyants can be grown in containers.