Oleander (photo) planting and care
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Oleander cultivation: description, planting and care
With the onset of summer, the oleander blossoms. Its delicate aroma, sometimes with notes of vanilla or with bitter almonds, and luxurious flowers of various colors have become a visiting card of the plant.
Oleander is a biological description
FAMILY: Cuthouse
APPEARANCE: Evergreen shrub with flexible, poorly woody shoots of height 2-6 m and width 1-3 m
LEAVES: Lancet, leathery, length 6-20 cm
FLOWERS: From white to dark purple, simple and terry, collected in the apical paniculate inflorescence
In the regions with a warm climate (in the Caucasus, Transcaucasia, Crimea), the oleander feels great in the open. In the middle belt, it is grown as a kad plant (in summer it is exposed to the garden, and in winter it is kept indoors, a greenhouse, a greenhouse), and also as an indoor flower.
Flowering oleander lasts more than 120 days; plant flowers can reach 10 cm in diameter on fertile, moist, carbonate soils.
For the winter, the base of the bushes is mulched with organic - humus. With the threat of lowering the temperature to -9 degrees, and more caring hosts
See also: Decorative shrubs: grown in soil and at home
Oleander in open field
On the southern coast of the Crimea and the Black Sea coast of the Krasnodar region, oleander is selected for open sunny places, protected from the wind. The plant develops better the crown, connected by a soft twine, and the trunks are wrapped in a cloth.
Late in the spring remove frost-damaged shoots, as well as weak branches that grow inside the crown or, conversely, deviate strongly to the ground. The maximum number of well-developed shoots in one shrub reaches 10 with age.
OLEANDRA SPECIALLY REQUIRED TO HEAT YOUNG, NOT FINISHED, GROWTH GROWTH, WHILE REDUCING TEMPERATURE TO -6 GRAD. ALREADY DAMAGED. MORE SENSITIVE TO THE LOW TEMPERATURE OF OLEANDR OF MATERIAL VARIETIES.
If there is no need to collect seeds, after flowering remove the tip of the flower shoot.
Oleander well tolerates pruning "on a high stump" (spend 1 time in 10-15 years) - he quickly restores the crown.
Oleanders are resistant to pests and diseases, but in the shading, unventilated areas, fungal diseases (usually powdery mildew) can occur, and plants can damage the scabbards, worms, and aphids. In these cases, treatment with permitted fungicides or insecticides will help.
Summer - garden
My dad was very fond of the oleander, which we grew in tubs in the hometown of Millerovo, Rostov Region. Every year in the spring after the disappearance of the threat of return frosts, the plants were taken out to the garden. Kadki dug in the soil near the old apple tree. In the fall, they were taken out, washed and brought into a bright, non-freezing, partially heated extension to the house (the optimum temperature for the plant at this time was + 6 ... + 8 deg.) - Watered rarely, but did not allow the substrate to dry out.
Every year Oleander rejoiced us in the summer with its luxurious flowering. He blossomed so abundantly that all neighbors came to see him, and also often passers-by.
Appeared the same oleander we have from the cuttings. The rooted plant was plucked as it grew to stimulate the development of lateral shoots. The first three years in spring, the oleander was transplanted - transplanted into a larger pot. During active growth, the plant was fed every 2 weeks with full mineral fertilizer (according to instructions). Watering - regular (the land should always be wet) and only with soft water. In dry premises, often on the oleander attacked scutes, red spider mite, mealybugs. Then you need to treat with an insecticide - preferably in the open air (on the balcony).
See also: Garden in the oriental style (Japanese, Chinese, Korean) with their own hands - decoration
FLOWER NUDOVIT!
All parts of the oleander are toxic, especially poisonous juice. Therefore, it is necessary to cut, transplant, cut the plant only with gloves! Do not keep it in a house where there are pets or small children. You can not put a pot of oleander in the room where you sleep - at high concentrations, the fragrance of flowers is toxic and causes a headache.
Actual: we reproduce in August
The best way to vegetatively propagate oleander is by lignified cuttings in August. Cuttings length 10-15 cm put in a container of clean water (add a piece of charcoal in the vessel so that the plants do not rot). In a couple of weeks, the roots will appear. Plant the cuttings in the greenhouse in a substrate of turf ground, peat, humus in equal parts.
© Author: Lyudmila ULEYSKAYA, Cand. Biol. Science, Yalta Photo: T.Sanchuk
OLEANDER - LANDING AND CARE. GROWING AND ADVICE
Oleandra you will like
Growing oleander at home is not an easy task. What should be considered?
Oleander is an evergreen Mediterranean shrub that reaches 2 m in height. At the same time, the plant tolerates pruning well (can be planned after flowering). With the help of pruning easy to form a compact bush.
In winter, he needs good lighting and temperature from + 4 hail. In the shade, oleander can shed its leaves, and this will worsen growth and significantly reduce flowering next year.
Keep the oleander in a bright warm place. In the summer, water abundantly with settled water at room temperature. In winter - moderately, as the top layer dries, but often spray the leaves: because of the central heating, the air is very dry, which makes it difficult to grow plants.
In the spring and summer, feed 5-7 days with complex mineral fertilizers.
Young plants are preferably transplanted annually in a larger pot. Adults can be transplanted once every two to three years. For large old specimens, change the top layer of soil once a year. Oleander grows well in a mixture of peat, sand and sod land (approximately in equal parts).
IMPORTANT!
Oleander is a poisonous plant, so after pruning, wash your hands thoroughly!
Sometimes flower growers complain about the lack of flowering in oleander. The main reason is incorrect pruning. On thin shoots with few leaves on long petioles you will not wait. In the spring (March-April), cut the tops of the stems to 20-30 cm from the soil - then they will be thicker, more branched and thicker, and at the ends of the annual shoots numerous flowers will form.
BREEDING
In the spring, cut off young (not older than 3's) shoots of cuttings of length 10-15, see. Put them in a water bottle in which you first throw a few pieces of charcoal. Close the container neck with clay so that the water does not evaporate. After 28-30 days, when the roots appear on the cuttings, transplant them into pots with a substrate (can be in the greenhouse or in the open ground). At the end of September, when the rooted cuttings grow in 25-40 cm, dig them up and plant them in pots.
© Author: Elena GORBUNOVA, Cand. biol. of sciences
ROSE OF MEDITERRANEAN - OLEANDER IN MY GARDEN
This beautiful tree with fragrant flowers has always attracted my attention. Before purchasing a seedling, I studied its features. It turns out that all parts of the bush are poisonous. But this did not stop me, because many ornamental plants contain substances hazardous to humans and animals. It's just worth taking precautions when working with them.
I bought a blooming pink terry oleander in a container at the market. He grew up in one tall stalk, almost in 1 m. “You will crop and form a neat bush,” the seller advised.
First pruning
After flowering, cut off (you need to work with gloves!) Shoot at an angle obliquely, leaving one third of the height. In the autumn, three new branches appeared on the bush, each of which by the next summer yielded a peduncle.
Experiments with oleander cuttings
I tried to root the trimmed branches in a mixture of peat and perlite (1: 1). Of the three survived, only one survived and bloomed next spring. After flowering, I also pruned this young oleander, and rooted the cuttings in settled water with tablets of activated carbon. This method turned out to be optimal. The roots grow powerful, seedlings take root well in the open ground.
Secrets of caring for an oleander
Now my first oleander is 5 years old. For two years I have not cut it radically, so the plant manages to bloom repeatedly. I spend only corrective pruning, rooting the side shoots.
I prepare the soil for cuttings as follows: I mix the soil for flower plants, special for azaleas, coconut fiber (2: 1: 1,2), adding a handful of vermiculite.
In the summer I plant handsome grown-ups in the open ground among roses and lilies (adult specimens can simply be dug together with a container). I choose sunny places for them.
I feed during the period of budding with potash fertilizer (according to the instructions). I also pour a handful of ash under each bush and mulch with a small amount of compost so that it covers the soil around the plants.
For the winter
In September, I carefully transfer the plants into containers and bring them into the house. At the end of winter, they are already blooming. The Mediterranean rose, as the oleander is often called, does not like dry air, therefore I constantly spray the bushes, and I keep the flowerpots in a pan with moistened expanded clay. Sometimes I bathe in the shower.
I feed with complex fertilizers for flower plants.
© Author: Valentina STAROVEROVA, Khorol, Poltava region.
Oleander blossoms royally
Oleander "lives" with me for several years. She grew a tree from a stalk. It should be noted that even in a non-flowering state, a plant formed by regular pruning looks decorative, and in the flowering period it looks completely royal.
The first two years I formed the crown of the oleander, so the buds appeared only in the third year. But my joy was short-lived. The fact is that the oleander spent the summer on the open balcony of a western orientation.
She noticed the buds in mid-July, but the August cold snap and temperature changes did the trick: the buds fell, never opening. A similar situation repeated the following year. But then it became possible for the summer to identify the oleander on the glazed southern balcony, and the plant pleased with fragrant caps of flowers.
In general, caring for an oleander is simple: from about mid-April until the first autumn frosts, the plant spends on the balcony. In the spring-summer period, it is necessary to water the tree daily. At each watering, I add a small amount of fertilizer to flowering plants. In September, after flowering, I reduce watering and do not feed. In mid-November I bring an oleander into the house, it winters near the balcony door, while trying to keep the window on micro-ventilation.
I read different things about pruning: some recommend conducting it after flowering in the fall, others - in the spring, before active growth begins.
The second option suits me better (I shorten the branches by 2/3), since in winter, when there is a lack of light and a relatively warm content, the oleander can begin to grow and young twigs will stretch. If pruned in the spring, then new branches grow in good light, already on the balcony, which cannot but affect their appearance.
© Author: Elena BUKHTA
OLEANDER IN THE GARDEN AND HOME
The southern shrub, unfortunately, does not hibernate in the middle lane. But in the summer it decorates the garden, and in the fall it moves into the house.
The stalk was given to me back in the late 90s. At first, I couldn't get along with him. The oleander grew rapidly, the branches stretched out strongly, despite the fact that it had enough light. But I didn't want to bloom. Years later, looking at him, I gained experience. Now every season, from May to October, the bush pleases with lush inflorescences that emit a delicate caramel aroma.
SECRETS OF CARE FOR OLANDROME
Oleander loves light, warmth and moderate watering.
Not picky about the soil. For me, it grows in a mixture of garden soil, peat, river sand and humus (1: 1: 1: 1). I rarely transplant shrubs, once every 2-3 years, but every spring I change the top layer of soil to a fresh one.
During the period of active vegetation, before flowering (spring-early summer), I feed 2 times a month with a complex mineral fertilizer for flowering plants (according to instructions). Among different brands, I like Fertika Lux the most.
In late April or early May, depending on weather conditions, I take out a flowerpot with a flower in the garden and put it in a sunny place. He quickly adapts and immediately throws out the first buds.
In late September-early October, I clean the container from dust and dirt, treat the plant and soil with a pesticide. I bring the pot with oleander home and put it on a bright windowsill. I cut the shoots, loosen the ground and sprinkle it with river sand or vermiculite on top, which retain moisture longer and look beautiful.
Pruning is one of the main components in the care of the plant. It is thanks to the correct haircut that the oleander pleases with amazing lush flowering and a compact beautiful crown.
I shorten all shoots by 2/3 of the length, remove small and thin ones. After winter dormancy (from November to February), new branches begin to grow, at the ends of which inflorescences form. That is why the oleander cannot be cut in the spring and summer. If the bush is not cut at all, flowering will be poor or will not occur at all.
Occasionally, my handsome leaves dry up, curl and fly around. Most often this happens due to lack of moisture or light. After adjusting the conditions, he again pleases with juicy greenery and bright colors.
OLEANDR - BEAUTY FROM THE SHELL
When I am asked to share the “southern beauty”, I propagate the oleander by cuttings cut after the autumn haircut that did not bloom this season. I put them in a jar of water and put them on a bright window sill. Roots appear after 3-4 weeks.
I also tried to root the cuttings in wet vermiculite, after dipping their tips in Root-vin. After planting the shoots, the container was covered with a film. This method has worked well too.
© Author: Lyudmila MIRONOVA, Sovetsk, Tula region.
HOME OLEANDER - VIDEO
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I want to try to root oleander cuttings and am now studying what conditions and care the plant needs. Maybe one of the authors will share their experience.
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Oleander cuttings readily form roots in water in spring and summer. It is only important not to change it, but only to top it up as it evaporates. Then plant the shoots in cups/pots according to the size of the regrown roots, and then, as they grow, transfer them to a large container.
For me this is one of my favorite plants. I plant it in a mixture of universal soil with perlite, and add drainage to the bottom of the pot. Dry long-acting fertilizers added to the soil showed positive results.
Watering is very important for oleander. During active growth and flowering, I moisten it abundantly, focusing on the condition of the soil - whether it is dry or not. I do not recommend using cold water. It's better to keep it warm.
If it is necessary to form a crown, I prune the handsome tree in early spring. Moreover, I noticed that it blooms both in the year of cutting and without it. But what definitely plays the main role in the formation of flower buds is good lighting.
In summer, you can safely take the plant outside. “Holidays” in the fresh air under the sun are only good for him, and over the course of the season he builds up good green mass. In the southern regions it is used for landscaping garden plots and planted in open ground.
Thanks to proper care and agricultural technology, oleander is resistant to pests and diseases. If problems arise, use appropriate medications.
A. Gridina
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To achieve oleander flowering, it must be pruned regularly. But do
this is necessary not in the spring, but in the second half of summer (flowering specimens - after flowering). This is due to the fact that the oleander blooms on overwintered shoots. In addition, success is determined by winter content. It should be as light and cold as possible (+ 6-8 deg.).
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A young plant in a single stem about 20 in height acquired in the spring. Immediately landed on the backyard, where oleander over the summer grew twice, but did not branch out. For the winter, together with a clod of land, I transplanted into 5 a pot in the garden land.
Since the oleander needs a cool winter, it was put in a summer kitchen, where in winter it does not exceed + 18 degrees, on a southern window with a single frame. Because of frosts, the temperature dropped to + 10 degrees.
Poured moderately, but tried to make sure that the earth dump did not completely dry up. Apparently, the conditions like the plant - there were buds.
With the onset of stable heat, the oleander again landed in the garden, this time not in the sun, but in the shade of the tree. The plant blossomed magnificently and attractively. Soon there were three shoots at the top and one at the very bottom. At the end of the summer, the oleander again blossomed, on new shoots. Flowering was even more magnificent.
To flowering oleander was abundant, and the crown thick, cut it in early spring - and the plant blooms on young shoots.