8 Review (s)

  1. Leonid G. ZOLOTOV

    How to deal with blight?
    The appearance of brown dirty spots, at least on individual fruits, I perceive as a signal of extreme danger - this is phytophthora.
    In this case, I completely clean the bushes, and the whole crop of tomatoes, even if they look perfectly healthy, expose them to warming up, it is necessary to kill the spores of the causative agent, which will certainly be on the fruits. As you know, this parasite does not tolerate temperatures within 50 degrees.
    I make a hot bath for my tomatoes in heated water (45-50 degrees, duration - 1Q-15 minutes depending on the size of the fruit). The easiest way to do this is in the bath of a city apartment, but also directly at the cottage, I had to repeatedly “swim” in a pan on the stove.

    Tried and dry warming up in a melted and slightly cooled stove.
    The result is equally positive. Interestingly, in heated tomatoes, in which the fungus has climbed deep, the symptoms of phytophtoras appear very quickly, on the 2-3 day. However, the proportion of such fruits in my practice did not exceed 10%. These were the maximum waste. And everything else, as a rule, was saved and used.

  2. Summerman, gardener and gardener (anonymous)

    This year the fogs began in July. As much as trying to protect the tomatoes in the greenhouse from the phytophthora, nothing helped. And Phytosporin sprayed every two weeks, and HB-101 used, and straw mulch. Watered only through bottles, dug straight to the roots. Maybe I did not take into account something? How was it necessary to take care of tomatoes in such a rainy summer?

    • OOO "Sad"

      Rains and heat contribute to the development of diseases of vegetable crops, including tomatoes. But even in such conditions it is possible to protect plants from phytophthora. The author of the question adhered to a good scheme of growing tomatoes and in a drier summer, most likely, would avoid problems. But this year alone biopreparations was not enough. It was necessary to include at least two sprays in a complex of preventive measures with a contact copper-containing preparation (Bordeaux liquid, Azophos). The first time it was necessary to process 14 days after planting the seedlings, the second one - after another 2 weeks.

      Instead of the growth promoter HB-101, the Rich drug should be used, in addition to micro- and macro-elements, Phytosporin is contained. It would be nice to add treatments with a solution of whey (1: 10).
      If the author of the question cut off her stepson with scissors or a knife, she could bring an infection from sick plants to healthy ones. Steps need to break out (it's easier to do this in 2-3 hours after watering). Use the same knife or scissors, if after each bush disinfect the instrument (vodka or hydrogen peroxide).

  3. Pavel Yegorovich

    Everyone knows how dangerous the phytophthora can be. I for many years struggled with this disease with varying success, until one of our most experienced in the garden association summer resident did not share an unusual, but very effective way to combat late blight.

    You need to buy 10 tablets of Furacilin in a pharmacy, grind them thoroughly and dissolve in 10 l of water. This solution does not deteriorate for a long time if stored in a cool, dark room (basement). For the prevention of late blight, three treatments per season are sufficient. The first time - before flowering, the second - when the ovaries appear, and the third - in early autumn, when the last wave of fruits ripens on the bushes.

  4. Anna CHERLENOK. Svetlogorsk

    With phytophthora I struggle so. I grow in a bucket of water 3-4 st.l. Coniferous concentrate for baths and spray bushes. If I do not find the concentrate on sale, I collect fresh spruce or pine needles. Fill 2 kg of needles 10 l of hot water and insist a week in the dark place, stirring daily.
    Before processing, the infusion is filtered and, not to scorch the leaves, I dilute with water 1: 5. I spray the plants in the morning or in the evening, but not during the rainy season and with abundant dew. I can add to the finished solution 1 st.l. shavings of laundry soap and 1 art. ash - this helps to eliminate the effect of acidification of the soil from the needles.

    TIP: In addition to preventing phytophthora, coniferous infusion is effective against aphids, cruciferous fleas, and Colorado beetles. And it is suitable for all garden and even garden crops.

  5. Eugene SALANOVICH

    Garlic-pink solution

    For the prevention of phytophthora according to 1,5 art. the pulp of garlic and pink solution of potassium permanganate is diluted in 10 l of water and sprinkled with tomatoes at a rate of 0,5 l per bush.

  6. Summerman, gardener and gardener (anonymous)

    Always watering tomatoes just under the root in the morning, and after aired the greenhouse.

    During the ripening of fruit I try to spray plants with biological preparations - Phytosporin-M (5 g per 10 L of water) or EcoSil (15 drops on water).

    To protect against phytophthors, this mixture is effective: 1,5 tsp. green, 2 l of cow's milk, according to 1 tbsp. baking soda, hydrated lime and copper sulfate for 10 l of water. Process the bushes twice a month.

    Alexander Gorny

  7. Love BOBROVSKAYA, Saint-Petersburg

    Late bloom appears in damp, cool weather, which, taking into account the peculiarities of our St. Petersburg climate, makes it the most dangerous and frequent disease of tomatoes. Has noticed: at first phytophthorosis is shown on a potato. Even if it's not my landing, but someone in the district who fell ill, I take action.

    Day and night, a greenhouse with tomatoes close, and aired in the early morning, while the grass is dew and phytophthora does not walk with air currents. From the end of July every 5-7 days I spray plants with copper-containing preparations - for example, 1% solution of the Bordeaux mixture (10 g per 1 L of water) or Oxychome. The latter, by the way, protects not only from late blight, but also from another common disease of tomatoes - cladosporium (he is a brown leaf spot, leaf mold), which is often confused with phytophthora. I tried to fight these diseases by spraying with Phytosporin, but it is good only for prevention. If the disease has already appeared, it does not help, but Oxigom in some way restrains their development.

    TIP! If I missed and the first signs of phytophthora appear on the bushes, gently shave the lobules of the affected leaves, carry it out of the greenhouse and burn it - this reduces the spread of the epidemic.


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