Peonies (photo) planting and care in the open ground from A to Z
Contents ✓
- ✓ PIONES IN RUSSIA
- ✓ PYONS - BIOLOGICAL DESCRIPTION
- ✓ CLASSIFICATION OF PIONES
- ✓ PEAKS: FROM LANDING TO FLOWERING
- ✓ PLANTING OF PIONES
- ✓ Peonies in the flower garden - care
- ✓ BREEDING OF PIONES
- ✓ Care of peonies: video
- ✓ PIONES - LANDING AND CARE: TIPS, REVIEWS AND RECOMMENDATIONS
- ✓ PIONE FLOWERS FOR BEGINNERS - VIDEO
Peonies flowers - description of planting and flower care
Suitable is the time of planting peonies. In this article you will get acquainted with the most beautiful varieties and learn how to take care of them
When peonies bloom in the garden, all eyes are turned towards them. The purity and brightness of the flowers are amazing: from snow-white and tender pink to rich burgundy, red-brown. The petals change shades as they blossom, even the shape of the flower changes, and the space around is filled with a delicate aroma. And after flowering, large shrubs with carved leaves do not lose their attractiveness.
And if you remember that the peony is not afraid of cold weather and does not suffer in the winters with the most severe frosts, then we will gladly admit that there is no equal in our gardens.
Peonies appeared on Earth millions of years ago. However, the first to pay attention to the beauty of plants in China. It happened about two thousand years ago. The Chinese deeply esteemed the peonies, considering flowers worthy of cultivation only in the gardens of the emperor, commoners were forbidden to grow them. Gardeners of the Celestial Empire were the first to start breeding work with peonies. The obtained varieties were valued highly, some were bought only for gold.
WILD, BUT SYMPATIC
Peonies created by nature, for many millennia adorned our planet. This is not to say that people did not notice them. But interest in them was more practical than aesthetic. Miraculous properties were attributed to peonies, pieces of roots were worn as amulets. It was believed that in the places where they grow, evil spirits disappear. Today, natural species of peonies are rare and endangered. We will name the most famous of them - those that can decorate your gardens.
PIONEY ORDINARY, or medicinal, native to the Mediterranean. He has a sturdy stem 70-80 cm in height, leaves are cut, ruby or red-red flowers, odorless, the size of 9-11, see Blossoms very early, already in May.
PION OF INLAND with very bright and large bright red flowers - a resident of the dry forests of southern Europe, he has a smooth straight stem up to 80 cm high, very beautiful dark green leaves, smooth on top and pubescent from below.
PION BREAST, also called Chinese and white-flowered, in nature lives in harsh conditions - on open dry slopes in China, Mongolia, Siberia, the Far East. Bushes 60-120 cm tall attract attention with an abundance of white or pale pink flowers, abundantly decorated with golden stamens, with 3-4 flowers on each stalk with a diameter of 8-10 cm. This species has given resistance to drought and frost, and also to gray rot.
PIONEON DROPNING, or unusual, we grow in Siberia, the polar Urals, in the people known as Maryin root. It occurs in forests, on fringes, glades, meadows. Withstands frosts up to 50 degrees. Unbranched stems reach 1 m. In the second half of May it looks like a bouquet of 20-30 large purple-pink flowers, there are varieties of white, crimson, crimson color.
Natural types of peonies:
1 - drug; 2 - Chinese; 3 - Maryin root
According to one legend, the peony owes its name to the doctor Peon, who treated the gods and people from the wounds received in the battles.
In this he surpassed his teacher, the god of healing Aesculapius, for which he decided to poison Peon. But Hades, once healed by Peon, saved it, turning it into a beautiful flower. According to a more prosaic version, the name of the flower is derived from the Greek word “Payonios” - “healing”, “healing” or from the name of the Thracian locality Peonia.
PION FINE meets in Central Europe, Asia Minor, in our south of the country from the Volga to the Dnieper, where he is nicknamed Voronets. Its bright crimson or dark red numerous flowers resemble shreds of silk. In early spring they decorate the steppes, slopes, edges of light oak forests. The bush is beautiful, spreading, only 20-50 cm in height and width. Openwork, thin, strongly dissected leaves touch the ground.
PIONEV VITTMAN and PION Mlokosevich come from Transcaucasia, they are owners of a coloration rare for peonies - white-yellow and yellow, though not soft. Flowers about 10 cm, open in early May. Plants are powerful, but demanding and moody in growing.
See also: Peonies care calendar
CHANGE OF STATUS
The ancient Roman scientist Pliny in the "Natural History" has a description of the pion, both as a medicinal plant, and ways of using it. In those days, roots, leaves, seeds of this plant were treated with convulsions, colds, inflammations. Generally, peony medicinal was grown.
This peony first moved closer to man and in medieval Europe. He was long cultivated in apothecary gardens at monasteries, and then became an ornament of flower beds and front gardens. In the XV century there appeared garden forms with large double flowers. But nevertheless, until the beginning of the XIX century, flower beds usually adorned the natural species of peonies.
The fate of the peony in China was different. In ancient times, it was also a recognized remedy, and in some areas it was even used for food. However, for two centuries before our era the attitude towards him has changed. Peony began to grow as an ornamental plant, moreover, it is believed that the history of Chinese gardening began with the cultivation of these flowers.
In those days, mainly two species were popular - milk-flowered and tree-like. Selection work was carried out by imperial gardeners. It is known that by the end of the 30th century they had created more than XNUMX varieties. Until now, for the Chinese, peony is a symbol of good luck, happiness and wealth, the personification of strength, courage, aristocratic position.
It is believed that in the 7th century Chinese monks brought peonies to Japan. Strangely enough, but the cultivation of these flowers carried away members of closed military communities, peculiar caste clubs by interests. They managed to bring out a number of varieties, distinguished by the special elegance of the flower, its form was called Japanese.
In Europe, the history of pion breeding begins at the turn of the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries, when varieties of the pomegranate, derived from China, come to England, Holland, and France from China.
An outstanding role in creating new peonies belongs to gardeners in France. The oldest variety Edulis Superba, bred by the Parisian gardener Nicholas Lemon in 1824, can still be found in catalogs and exhibitions, including Moscow ones. The three most famous breeders of the time - J. Calo, A. Cruz, V. Lemoins created varieties that are often called historical, forming our tastes a century in advance. They are distinguished by a terry pink-shaped flower shape and a pleasant aroma. The beginning of the XX century brought new aesthetic trends, there was an interest in peonies with light graceful flowers of unusual color. Such criteria met the varieties of O. Desser.
After World War I, while Europe was licking its wounds, the peony breeding center moved to the United States. Crosses of peonies of dairy, medicinal and other species began there. As a result, the world was enriched with many hybrids with new tones of colors - bright, clean, even shiny, mainly in red and pink. They are distinguished by early flowering, decorative foliage, a diverse form of the bush.
Currently, up to 80 percent of the assortment consists of varieties from milk-flowered peony, the rest are offspring of interspecific hybrids.
At the end of the last century, hybrids were obtained by crossing a grassy milk-flowered and tree-like yellow peony. They are called ITO hybrids in honor of the Japanese scientist-breeder who solved this problem. Their flowers are yellow, lemon, violet, plum - which have never been in grassy peonies.
See also: Peony herbaceous (photo) grades, planting and care
PIONES IN RUSSIA
On the territory of Russia there are from 14 up to 16 species of wild peonies. And from ancient times, peony infusions have been treated a lot, from gastric disorders to paralysis and seizures. It is known that in the XVI-XVII centuries monastic and royal gardens grew simple peonies, called seed, for cooking potions and terry, called kinky, for decoration.
Varieties of French peonies most likely appeared in our country in the first half of the 19th century. They were raised by the gardeners who had been discharged from abroad. These peonies were adorned with rich manor estates near Moscow, St. Petersburg, Kiev, Riga. The fact that they were popular, no doubt. In K.Epanchin's book "Flower Garden", published in 1891 year, 30 varieties and species of peony are mentioned.
In the USSR, selection work began in the post-war years, when a large collection of French varieties was brought from European nurseries. The first domestic varieties created by N. Krasnov in the RBS of the RAS were: Arkady Gaidar, Varenka, Snegurochka, Vesenny, Moskvich and many others. In the Botanical Garden of Moscow State University worked AA Sosnovets (varieties Iceberg, Arctic, White sail, Bečernaya Moscow, Cinderella) and VF Fomichev (Nakhodka, in memory of astronauts, Eaglet).
In the creation of new varieties, amateur breeders are also successfully participating.
PYONS - BIOLOGICAL DESCRIPTION
There are up to 40 species in the genus of peonies, basically all of them are endemic, that is, they grow only in a certain territory, and they can not be found anywhere else in nature. Peonies are grassy, they decorate our cottages, garden plots, our story is dedicated to them, and the shrubs are tree-like, in which the above-ground part does not die by winter. These heat-loving peonies are rarely grown here due to freezing in winter.
In height, the grassy peonies are divided into low (up to 60 cm), medium (60-80 cm), tall (80-100 cm), giants (100-150 cm). Shrubs with a lot of erect simple stems are decorated with a variety of shapes and colors of leaves. They are large and wide or narrow, resembling a fern, gray or green of different tones, becoming yellow, pink, red, and bronze by the fall.
The underground part of the peony is complex. It consists of rhizomes, subordinate roots, root tubers and suction roots. On a perennial rhizome, which is the lower thickened part of the stems, buds of renewal are laid. Some of them are in a dormant state - this is a reserve that makes the peony viable, if some die, others awaken. Shoots grow from the largest kidneys of renewal in spring, and at least 2 years elapse from laying buds to the formation of shoot primordia in them.
On the rhizome near the kidneys subordinate roots are formed. In the first year of life, they are thin and Light, gradually darken and get fat.
Korneklubni represent thickened perennial fleshy roots, in which stocks of nutrients are deposited. They are brown, well visible when digging. Annually dying suction roots (small and thin) ensure the supply of water and nutrients. In adult strong plants, the root system spreads in loose soil to a depth of up to 1 m, and widths to 70-80 cm.
The flowering of peonies begins in late May - early June and continues depending on the variety and weather conditions until mid-July. Varieties are divided into early (bloom until June 15), medium (from 15 to 25 June) and late (from June 25 to July 10). Early peonies of the most various shades, later more monophonic. Terry varieties usually bloom in the second half of June.
Peony essential oils include up to 30 components. Therefore it is not surprising that peony perfumes were in great fashion until the beginning of the 20th century, when they were made from natural raw materials. In France, Edulis Superba was considered the most perfumery. Today there is a new wave of interest in spirits with the aroma of pioia. Their a bunch of: Pink Peony by Perlier, Bright Crystal by Versace, Miss Dior Blooming Bouquet by Christian Dior, Amour iLoveu from Kenzo, Pleasures Bloom and Pleasures Intense from Estee Lauder, Peoneve from Penhaligons, Vintage Bloom by Jessica Simpson.
Flowers with a diameter of 6-20 cm are located singly or several on one shoot. The latter decorate the bush until 25 days, whereas shrubs with flowers only bloom 16 days on the top of the stem.
Many varieties, especially old ones, are very fragrant, but do not have their own, "pion" smell. It can be the aroma of roses, lily of the valley, jasmine, lemon, flowering linden, lilac and even coffee, honey, spices.
CLASSIFICATION OF PIONES
Today our planet is decorated with tens of thousands of varieties of peonies.
Organize them by classification, based on the shape of the flower. Of course, such a division is rather arbitrary, some varieties do not fit into this framework, but in general with its help the peony world escaped chaos, and it became easier for us to find the way to the desired flower.
SIMPLE (NON-MEETING)
Most varieties are early and supernormal. Shrubs as high as 80 cm with straight strong stems do not fall apart. Flowers are light, petals are arranged in a row, pestles and numerous stamens are clearly visible.
The most popular are the following varieties: Crinkled White with wavy, sort of slightly crumpled petals, initially tender pink, then white; Katyusha Dubrova delicate pastel tones; long blooming hybrid News of Altai with bright pink and purple corrugated petals; bright red-pink color is distinguished by Golden Glow, scarlet - Scarlet O'Hara with shiny petals; rich cherry red tone in the variety Cossack; Orange Glory attracts attention with an orange tinge of petals; black and red Sable is considered one of the darkest peonies.
SEMI-FINISHED
The flowers have several rows of petals, there are pistils and a lot of stamens. They are in the center or mixed with petals all over the flower. The height of the bush is 60-90, see the flowers are large, but not heavy.
In this group, pions of coral shades are especially appreciated: fragrant Coral Magic, Coral Fei with thin leaves; Anne Berry Cousins as if from inside; Coral Charm changes coral tone as it blossoms, at first it is with obvious orange saturation;
Coral Suprim under favorable conditions becomes almost double. Early, since May, very beautiful flowers Cytery, changing color from saturated pink-red to coral with pale peach tips of the petals. The most famous white variety is the fragrant Miss America with silky petals gathered in large flowers. There are extremely bright varieties in this group: pink Paula Fei with iridescent, as if corrugated petals; dark red, sparkling Red Rose. Helen Kauli begins to blossom as the brightest crimson-scarlet, then turns into a bright pink color, long retaining a cup-shaped shape.
JAPANESE
Corolla constitutes 1-2 series of large petals. There are no traditional stamens, they have turned into narrow ligulate petals (staminoids), which give the flower an unusual originality. They fill the center in the form of a beautiful rosette. Their coloring can coincide with a halo or contrast with it, have a rim of another shade. In white and light pink varieties staminoids are usually yellow, with dark colored often with golden tips. Shrubs of medium height, compact.
Peonies of the Japanese form are famous for white varieties. The snow-white Carrara is decorated with a lush center of white and yellow staminoids; at the fragrant Moon of Nippon wide white-cream petals; Bu Tu at first pinkish, then white.
The shape of Golden Bracelet is very interesting: the outer petals are large, the inner white ones are short and narrow, bright yellow, they ring the central, long and white petals in a ring - this is the golden bracelet. Among the pink "Japanese": an old but still popular variety Amano-Sodi with a yellow center; Neon is saturated pink-lilac color; it has large staminodes, yellow with a pink edge. Of the domestic varieties, one cannot fail to note the fabulously beautiful pink-lilac Pearl placer.
Very eye-catching red pions with golden staminodes: dark red Midnight Sun; carmine red, shiny Nippon Diamond; maroon Hot Chocolet. The dark pink-red Gay Pari flaunts a lush creamy pink center, and in the Chocolet Soulger variety, which inevitably attracts attention with its rich red-brown color, one can immediately see simple and double flowers in one bush.
ANEMONOVIDE PIONES
Corolla single-row, of large petals. In the center, truncated petals (petalodia), they are much shorter than the outer ones, but at the same time much wider than the stamina of the "Japanese". They are collected in the form of a ball. Coloring or in the tone of the lower petals, or more light, but sometimes contrasting. The height of the 60-90 bush is
A petalium ball can be as small as Cheddar Surprise, so large, especially in full bloom. An example of this is a fluffy and bright yellow ball surrounded by creamy white petals in Primavera and Cheddar Cheese varieties. Petals and the center can be painted in the same tone, like the carmine red Ruth Clay.
Extraordinarily tender varieties with light petals look: a light pink Mirny with a cream center; white Snow Mountain, whose center at the beginning of flowering is creamy pink, and then white. Cora Stubbs amazes with richness of tones and halftones: petals are crimson-pink, the center is creamy with lilac shadows. Enchanting and varieties of saturated coloration, similar to White Cap, whose dark pink petals contrast with the almost white center.
MAKHROUP PIONES
Terry peonies are still the most popular peonies, they make up most of the assortment. The entire volume of such a flower is filled with petals, in them have turned and stamens, there were only pistils. Within the group, several subgroups are distinguished.
CROWNS
The flower consists of three tiers. The lower petals are wide, in the center are narrower, higher are replaced by broad petals, collected in a ring, similar to the crown.
These peonies are very attractive, especially at the beginning of flowering, when the colors are bright. The height of the 70-90 bush is
A good grade Duchesse de Nemours - white with a lemon bulk core, smells like lily of the valley; Laura Desser is also fragrant - creamy white, with a pale yellow center. Domestic Anastasia is not inferior to them in attractiveness, it has elegant, not very large pink-cream buds, the center shines with raspberry.
See also: Peonies: planting and leaving in the spring in the open ground
HEMISPHERIC, BALLOON, BOMBOVID PIONES
In the first two types, the shape of the flower resembles a sphere or hemisphere, when there is no clear rupture between the outer and central lobes. In the bomb-shaped form, the outer petals are large, wide, often horizontally or bent downwards. The remaining petals are narrower, often dissected or with a serrated margin. They are bent inside and form a tight ball. The height of the 75-100 bush is
Nobody will be left indifferent by whipped balls of white peonies with the most delicate shades of pastel tones, among them: Madame de Verneville, whose white, pinkish-tinged flowers smell like roses; tender-cream-pink Moskvich and Pink Cameo. Charmingly beautiful multicolor peonies.
Thus, in the Rhapsody, the lower row is pale pink, above the necklace of cream-white petals, the whole rosette of roses crowns, and its center is creamy-white, sometimes with red strokes.
Difficult coloring and Raspberry Sanday: the outer petals are soft pink, the corona has the same tones, but more saturated, the central petals are yellow-cream. The top Brass is large, white, with delicate pink protruding tufts, the center shines creamy-yellow.
Among the best varieties of the pink range: pink-lilac Evening Moscow; carmine pink General Bertrand; light purple-pink with a pleasant aroma Monsieur Jules Elie. Red tones are also desirable in this group: the famous centenarian - Angelo Cobb Freeborn, bred by a school teacher from America in 1943, has a rich pink-red color, Red Grace has sparkling dark-red petals, Red Charm is scarlet, Sindbad is carmine-red .
SIMILAR ROSES
In rose-like peonies, all the petals are even and large, about the same size, they are collected tightly and have a whole round shape, really resembling a rose. Half-sprouted differ from them only by a large number of stamens in the center. The height of the 70-100 bush is
The airy foam of the white peonies captivates with gentle shades of pink and cream tones, such is the fragrant Baroness Schroeder, Moon River, whose flowers retain their shape for long, the elegant, thick-smelling Solange. In the old variety of the Festival Maxim, the petals are white with raspberry tags on the tips, a dense bud.
Now imagine the pink peonies: Doris Cooper is soft pink, aroma with notes of jasmine. Very large flowers (20-22 cm) in the varieties of Mrs. F. D. Roosevelt and Pillow Tok, with the first petals light pink with a salmon hue, the second - the most delicate warm pink color. Princess Margaret changes color from dark pink to silver pink. A relatively new variety for us, Etched Sapmon, has flowers in the form of an old English rose of exquisite salmon-pink color. The masterpiece of domestic selection is the variety of the Memory of Gagarin, it has the lower petals of flesh-pink, central creamy pinks with a yellow base, sometimes with carmine touches. And finally, the famous Sarah Bernhardt: bushes do not fall apart, do not require support, at the same time up to 40 fragrant lilac-pink flowers can bloom.
Fans of red and burgundy tones are offered: pomegranate Henry Boxtos; carmine red Kansas, stamens are scattered between the petals in some places; dark-ruby fragrant Carl Rosenfeld; bright red with Carol's silky petals; ruby red Paul M. Wilde, whose velvety petals do not burn out in the sun; red-chestnut Robert Outen.
The most famous half-pie peonies: Goody with bright crimson-pink petals, dark red, sparkling Illini Bell.
PEAKS: FROM LANDING TO FLOWERING
The best time for planting peonies is from mid-August to the end of September. However, if necessary, you can plant them in October. When growing these flowers, the main thing is to choose the right place and plant it correctly; no further problems arise. If these requirements are not met, the peony will refuse to bloom, no matter how you care for it.
WHERE TO STICK THE PIONES
Pion is not at all suitable for wet, wetlands, where groundwater is closer than 1 m. There, the roots rot and the plant dies very quickly. The site should be ventilated and at the same time have protection from the prevailing winds. Peony loves good lighting, only hybrids can shade at noon hours. In the penumbra well grow forest peonies, such as Maryin root.
Peonies work on very different soils, the best are loamy, cultivated, well drained, rich in nutrients. On light soil plants give a lot of fairly thin stems and small leaves, bloom weakly, quickly age and lose decorativeness. In such a land it is recommended to add clay, humus or compost and a little peat.
On the clay of pions, strong stems, powerful leaves, large, brightly colored flowers, but plants develop more slowly. This land also has to be improved by adding sand, humus (compost) and peat. Peony does not like peat soils. Usually peat has an acidic reaction, and he needs a medium reaction, close to neutral (pH 6,5-7). If the pH is below 6, the soil is deoxidized by introducing bone or dolomite flour, ash (200 g / m2).
A DEAL WITH A QUALITY MARK
There is always the temptation to acquire a large adult bush, even if old, because it seems that if you plant it in good soil, it will grow beautifully. But this is the most common mistake!
In fact, the plant in this case feeds on old reserves, new roots do not develop (and our main task is to achieve the formation of new roots!). Quite quickly, the bush will be exhausted, will lose attractiveness.
In lower parts, peonies should be grown on elevated ridges, while drainage with a thickness of at least 20 cm is mandatory.
Peonies are not planted next to buildings, it is necessary to retreat at least 2 m, because proximity to the structure leads to overheating and dry soil. Peonies also do not plant under trees - they will deprive them of moisture and nutrients.
A good strong bush can only be grown from a young plant. The standard division has 2-3 buds and as many accessory roots, shortened to approximately 10-12 cm.
That is, the aboveground and underground parts must be balanced, this is the key to intensive growth and complete renewal of the root system. Slicers are treated with greenery, charcoal, maxime. For prevention, the planting material is disinfected in water at a temperature of 40 degrees for 20 minutes.
Reference by topic: Peonies - planting and varieties (photo)
PLANTING OF PIONES
LANDING TECHNIQUE
Given that in one place without grafting peonies can grow for many years, we must immediately try to plant correctly. When planting there are no trifles, all recommendations are important to perform accurately. Planting several plants, the pits are digged at a distance of 100-120 cm from each other. When the bushes grow, it will not seem that they are planted too far.
They dig a planting hole and fill it with soil mixture at least a month before planting in order to settle. A pit is needed large, as for a tree, with a width and depth of at least 60 × 65 cm. In a shallow pit, the roots will reach solid soil and stop growing, will spread in the surface layer, where they will soon begin to suffer from a lack of moisture and nutrients.
The top fertile soil layer from the pit is removed and left, the bottom is poured onto the paths. The bottom is loosened by a shovel and arranges drainage, that is, a layer of gravel, broken brick is poured. The pit is covered approximately half the volume with a mixture composed of humus (compost), peat and a fertile layer of earth (2: 2: 1) with the addition of 200 g superphosphate, 200 g of potassium sulfate and 300 g bone meal or ash. After all this is flooded with water.
So, the whole nutrient mixture is in the bottom of the pit, now the top part is filled with garden soil (it can be taken from the bed), adding a little peat and ash. In this ordinary land and plant the plant, its roots should not touch fertilizers. A well-filled pit will feed the peony for at least 4 years, or even all 5. During this time, the roots will grow to the stores at the bottom of the pit and fill them with a shortage of nutrients.
The rhizome of the peony is lowered into the prepared pit, the roots are straightened, so that they do not bend upwards and fall asleep with soil, gently compressing it so that there are no voids. Then plants are well watered (1-2 buckets per bush), once again compact the soil and sprinkled with peat or humus, it will help to keep moisture in hot weather.
It is very important when planting to close the buds, otherwise the peony refuses to bloom, will only grow green. After the soil has settled, the uppermost buds should be at 3 cm below the soil level, if it is loamy, and at 5 cm below, if it is light sandy loam. For the necessary penetration of the kidneys will have to follow and in the future, because the rhizome gradually builds up, and in addition, the ground is washed away by irrigation, rake off during weeding and loosening.
By winter, the nets are covered with peat with a layer of 10-12. See Sawdust, manure, straw, cut off the peony itself does not fit, it is all a favorable environment for fungal diseases. In the early spring, until the shoots began to grow, the shelter is removed, the soil is carefully and shallow loosened, trying not to damage the roots, you can just pierce it.
Peonies start selling in March. If the delenka is not over-dried, with healthy kidneys and roots, it can be kept until April in the refrigerator: put in wet moss or slightly moist peat, wrap with paper, and then place in a plastic bag and store in the vegetable and fruit compartment. When the rot appears, the damaged area is cut out and processed with greenery. As soon as the soil warms up and will be 5-10 degrees, a pit is prepared, and if there is no time, plant the crop just on a bed, in autumn it is transferred to a permanent place.
With a shallow landing on heavy soil in spring, young shrubs are sometimes pushed out of the ground. To them it is necessary to pour soil, and in the autumn to transplant with correct burial. If the kidneys are bare a bit, it's enough just to sprinkle them with earth.
Peonies in the flower garden - care
In the first year of life, the pion is not allowed to bloom, all the buds that have emerged are torn off, in order to activate the growth of roots and the laying of buds. If the delicate was large, with 3-5 buds, and properly planted, then for the third year you can expect a full flowering, and by the fourth year have a powerful, beautifully flowering bush.
Leaving the first 2-3 years consists only in weeding, cultivation and watering. Peony water chowder - evaporate a lot of moisture. Watering is especially needed in May, when intensive shoot growth begins, and all of July, when regeneration buds are formed. It is not often watered, but abundantly, every 10-15 days, 2-3 buckets per bush to wet the soil layer to the depth of the roots. It is watered with a cover, making a roller from the ground around the bush, or under its base, trying not to wet the leaves so as not to provoke the disease with gray rot. Water from the well must be warmed in the sun. In dry weather, at the end of August and beginning of September, a couple more waterings are carried out for the development of young additional roots.
If the pit is well seasoned, top dressing is given from about the fourth year of life, when abundant flowering begins. In early spring, as soon as the snow melts, 30-40 g of nitrogen fertilizers (ammonium nitrate, urea, nitroammophosk) are scattered around the bushes without being embedded in the ground. The second time they feed, when the buds appear, it is best with a mullein solution (1 kg is poured with 10 liters of water, insisted for 10 days). This amount is enough for 3-4 bushes. If there is no mullein, solutions of complete mineral fertilizers are used. After flowering, nitrogen, both mineral and organic, is excluded from top dressing, and only phosphorus and potash are deposited - approximately 20 g per adult bush, dissolved in a bucket of water. In mid-September, 1-2 buckets of humus or compost are poured under each peony, adding a little ash.
It is advisable to combine top dressing with watering or to choose the time after the rain. But in general it is better to feed pions underfoot than overfeed, which can cause the growth of green mass to the detriment of flowering. In addition, it must be remembered that mineral fertilizers acidify the soil.
Shrubs with heavy, especially double flowers can suffer greatly in bad weather, fall apart so that the stems will lie on the ground. To prevent this from happening, even before flowering around high bushes, it is necessary to mount supports: special fences, ring-stands, simply pull a thick wire, fastening it on pointed pegs. You can not just tie all the stems to one cola, because such a thickening interferes with the ventilation of the bush and will lead to the development of fungal diseases.
To get large flowers ("exhibition"), one central bud is left on the stem, and the side buds are pricked as soon as they become the size of a pea. The same is recommended for making in varieties with heavy double flowers. If you need to delay the flowering, then, on the contrary, leave the side buds, and remove the central flower.
For a bouquet, you can cut from the bush no more than half of the peduncles. At the same time, after cutting, at least 2 lower leaves should remain on the stumps of the stems. The fact is that at this time the peony forms renewal buds due to the nutrients produced by the leaves. There will be no nutrition - the kidneys will be small and weak. For the same purpose, after flowering, the testes are removed.
Cut the peonies when the bud just starts to open, better in the morning, until 10 hours. Wrapped in paper, flowers can be stored in the refrigerator or cellar at a temperature of 3-5 degrees 2-3 a week. Buds with drops of dew and rain should be allowed to dry, otherwise they will have brown spots and they will rot.
In the autumn, after the first frost, when the stems fall, they are cut to the ground level and burned. Previously, this is not necessary: from healthy leaves and stems, the flow of nutrients into the roots continues. Adult plants do not cover for the winter, they tolerate frosts up to 40 degrees, enough to pour the soil with peat.
BREEDING OF PIONES
Peonies multiply by dividing the bush, starting from 5-7 years, and interspecific hybrids even earlier, from 3-4-year-old age. The best time to divide is the period from the end of August, when new buds were formed, until the middle of September.
A large overgrown bush is difficult to dig out. First, cut the stems by one third at a height of 10-15 cm and tie the hemp so that the bush does not fall apart when digging and the kidneys do not break. Then they dig around with a sharp shovel and gently lift with a pitchfork with wide teeth. Draw a bush out of the earth for the stems can not, however much you want to grasp them.
After digging up the earth from the roots, rinse with a stream of water to make the kidneys become visible. At 2-3 hours, the bush is transferred to the shade to make the roots of the wilted and become more elastic. They divide by severing sharply sharpened shovel or hammering a wooden wedge into the center, and then splitting the bush. If the plant is very large, it is necessary to divide it directly in the pit, and then finish work with the raised parts on the surface. Old and rotten parts of the rhizome are removed. The best are the delenki, having 3-5 kidneys and the same number of healthy roots.
Care of peonies: video
See also: Tree-like peonies or peonies in science
DISEASES AND PESTS
SERIAL HARNESS (BOTRITIS) - the most dangerous and most often affecting peony fungal disease, other diseases are less common. First, in the spring, the base of the stems rot, they break and fall. Then all parts of the plant are affected: leaves, buds, rhizomes. A characteristic coating of gray mold appears on them, the buds turn brown and do not develop. The causative agent of infection in the rhizomes and on plant debris overwinters. Early varieties are particularly affected.
Usually, when dividing the bush, small but viable parts with 1-2 kidneys and a small piece of rhizome remain. Do not rush to throw them away, but plant them on a bed of fertile soil. In a couple of years they will turn into strong plants with young roots, and will delight you with a magnificent blossom for many years.
Causes of the disease: poor ventilation with thickened plantings; growing on acidic, heavy, poorly drained soils; waterlogging in a cool, rainy summer; excess nitrogen fertilizers.
Prevention and treatment. Remove and burn the affected parts of plants, cut off the faded peonies, so that the petals do not fall on the leaves (on them in wet weather there are spots of gray rot), timely low-cut stalks in the fall. To reduce the acidity of the soil, annually make ash and dolomite flour.
In prophylactic purposes in the spring, once shoots appear, it is recommended to spray bushes with 0,5% solution of Bordeaux liquid, and spill the soil at the base of the stems with a solution of potassium permanganate (3-5 g per 10 L of water). The treatment is repeated after 7-10 days. You can use a solution of garlic (8-10 g minced garlic for 1 l water), they spray the plant and the soil around.
If the peonies are ill, with a minor lesion will help biological preparations agate-25K, alirin-B, hamairo, glioclavine, phytosporin-M. If an effective remedy is required, fungicides of the vector, skor, maxim are used.
FRACTURES OF LEAVES usually appear after flowering and in autumn in warm and humid weather. On leaves and stems, light gray, brown, yellowish-brown spots with a red-brown fringe are formed. They increase, darken, the leaves shrivel. Causing premature death of leaves and shoots, spotting thereby weaken the plant. The infection remains on plant residues.
Prevention and treatment. The same as with gray lesions.
THE MUSIC ROSA usually affects peonies at the end of vegetation at high humidity and temperature. On the leaves there appears a white mealy coating, then they die.
Prevention and treatment. At the first signs of the disease, spray 7% solution of calcined soda and copper-soap solution (12 g copper sulfate and 0,5 g of green or household soap for 20 L of water) at intervals of 200-10 days. Of the folk remedies are effective infusions of garlic, fresh manure, fermented herbs, decoction of horsetail, etc.
Of the drugs with a weak lesion, biological ones are used (alirin-B, phytosporin-M), with a strong one - systemic fungicides (topaz, thiovitis).
RUST can hit peonies in the first half of June. Yellow-brown or red-brown spots appear on the upper side of the leaves, yellow-orange pads containing spores appear on the underside. The leaves twist and dry up. In warm, wet weather, the disease spreads very quickly.
Prevention and treatment. Do not plant peonies near the pine tree, which is the source of infection. In autumn carefully clean the plant residues from planting. In order to prevent the use of drugs immunocytophyte and narcissus, spraying on leaves once a month all season.
In the treatment, remove diseased leaves, alternately 7-10 days are treated alternately 0,5% solution of Bordeaux liquid and 0,5% solution of copper chloride.
VIRAL DISEASES (KARLIKOVOST, KURCHAVOST LEAVES, RING MOSAIC LEAVES, which manifests itself in the form of bright spots in the form of rings and semirings forming a "marble" pattern). These diseases have not yet been treated. Affected peonies must be excavated and burned.
PIONES - LANDING AND CARE: TIPS, REVIEWS AND RECOMMENDATIONS
OUR PIONE PARADISE
Peony is really a royal flower; the personification of wealth and luxury. Having come to Europe from China three centuries ago, he made a real sensation. Luxurious pioneer bushes began to decorate the imperial palaces and mansions of the nobility. Attention of flower growers to it does not die out till now. It serves as a source of inspiration for artists, poets and musicians, conquers the hearts of more and more connoisseurs of beauty around the world. Today it is rare to find a garden in which there are not these majestic and yet elegant flowers. They really have something to love: huge flowers - bright and gentle, fascinating aroma, high frost resistance and amazing longevity - the peony can grow in one place 50-100 years!
Peony bushes settled in our garden about ten years ago, together with irises and other flowers and shrubs. However, every year the peonies won more and more space. To date, our collection has more than 1 000 varieties of iris and 500 varieties of peony. Just imagine what a fragrance reigns here, when all of them blossom!
We have both grassy and tree-like peonies of domestic and foreign selection, as well as more than 15 varieties of a new generation - ITO hybrids. Today I will tell you about a collection of peonies of Ukrainian origin. I really appreciate the work of our breeders. But some domestic peony varieties, unfortunately, are lost or exist in very small numbers, so their search becomes a real adventure. So I wanted to collect as many Ukrainian peonies as possible in order to save them for future generations.
The pride of our garden is peonies of selection of Vasily Fedorovich Gorobets. In our garden there are almost all of its varieties, and each of them is good in its own way. All these peonies differ in the color and shape of the flower, the height and compactness of the bush, and the timing of flowering. But everyone is able to charm at first sight its incredible beauty. Choose the best among them is simply impossible.
Irokez, 2007. Triple hybrid, registered in the American Society of Peonies (registration authority of the world pion base). The flower is of 16-18 cm in diameter, an anthropoid type, a dense pink-raspberry color. The central petals are very rare for peonies - narrow, long, with denticles and pointed edges, pointing upwards and sideways, forming an open center in the form of a funnel. A variety of the early flowering period. The shrub is 90-100 in height, compact, with powerful stems.
Zhemchuzhna Rozsyp, 1989. Flower with a diameter of 13-16 cm, pink with pearlescent reflection, middle carmine-red, staminoids (modified stamens) yellow-pink. Bush height 90-100 cm, stems strong, straight. The documents of this variety are aimed at registration in the American Society of Peonies. This pearl of Ukrainian breeding is able to decorate any garden.
Hercules (Herkules), 2010. Triple hybrid. The flower is 18-20 in diameter. The shrub is 100-110 cm high, very beautiful and powerful.
Ofelia (Xelux), 1998 Hybrid of the super early flowering period. Flower diameter 15-17 cm, double, pink-fuchsin color, all the petals are wide. The shrub is compact, with a height of 65-70,
I liked the sort of Svetlana (Svitlana), named after the breeder's wife. And although this peony has settled with us quite recently and is a small bush, it has already attracted attention. Flower in it with a diameter of 18 cm. pink, beautiful build. bright pink color. A variety of late flowering.
Our family also fell in love with the Kobzar variety, 2007. Its beautiful tall (110 cm) bush during flowering is decorated with large dark pink dense double pink flowers.
The real treasure of Vasily Fedorovich's selection is the Skarbnytsia variety, 1994. The flower is densely double, pink-shaped, beautifully built, fragrant. Its pink and lilac petals sparkle in the sun. The bush is high (100-110 cm), with strong shoots. Blooms on Wednesday. non-early dates. This peony is a real decoration of any garden!
In 2007, another beautiful variety appeared - Charivnyk, which simply bewitches with its tenderness. He has a flower with a diameter of 16-18 cm, densely terry, pinkish, white with cream highlighting from the inside. The aroma resembles the smell of lily of the valley. The bush is tall (100-110 cm), the stems are strong. The variety is ideal for cutting.
Variety Yasochka (Yasochka), 1994, is my favorite. Sweet, good Yasochka forms neat shrubs 90-95 in height with strong stems on which large, 18 cm in diameter, flat, dense, dark pink flowers with pink-petal edges of petals are formed.
It is in my favorites and the Dukat variety, 1994. All the advantages with it: both the tall bush (110-120 cm), the shape of the petals, and the size of the flower (diameter 17-19 cm). And what a splendid brightly carmine-red color in the flowers of this peony!
Variety Zoryana (Zoriana), 2011, is named after the doctor-oculist Zoryana Vasilievna Povch. The flower is small, with a diameter of only 12-14 cm, an anthropoid shape. He just bewitches with his tenderness. Corolla pink, petalodia (modified petals) slightly pink, then burned to white, form the right ball, which effectively stands out against the background of pink petals. Bush height 80-85 cm, compact, stems strong. A variety of early flowering.
Among the pions of the selection of Vasily Fedorovich Gorobets, there are many varieties, for which he used several species of peony. I will tell only about some of them.
Benefis (Benefis), 2003. The bush height of 70-80 cm, the stems are powerful. The flower is 15-17 in diameter, thick-muscled, dense, petals are gathered in the right ball. Color burgundy-red, does not burn out in the sun. A variety of the early flowering period.
Blond (Blondyn). 2013, is not yet common, even in Ukraine. Flower blondin diameter 13-15, see a non-cup, cup-shaped, light pink color, cream ovary, stigma cream-pink, stamen threads cream. A variety of the early flowering period. Bush height 55-60 cm, stems strong.
Vesnane Defile [Vesmane Defile], 2014. The variety of the early flowering period. Very few people know about it even in Ukraine. Bush height 55-60 see stems strong. Flower diameter 10-12 cm, non-cup, cup-shaped, light pink-cream. ovary cream, stigmas red-pink, staminate threads pink.
Coquette (Koketka), 2011. A variety of the early flowering period. The bush is 90-95 in height. The flower is 18-20 in diameter, non-cup-shaped, cup-shaped, petals slightly wavy, pink, pale lime, pink stigma, filaments of light pink.
I really like the Malynova Vatra variety, '2010. A bush 100-110 cm tall. Flowers with a diamter of 16-18 cm, terry, carmine red. It blooms in the early stages and simply bewitches with its beauty!
I also like the grade Metelyk (Metelyk), 2009. The bush is not high, just 70-75, see very compact. It blooms early, being covered with non-cup flower of cup-shaped form, very beautiful light pink-purple color. When you look at the blossoming bush of this peony, it seems as if a flock of bright moths crouched on it.
The triple hybrid of Pysanka Kolomyi, 2010, received his name after the author's trip to Kolomyia, Ivano-Frankivsk region. While the bush is not widely distributed. The shrub at Pysanka Kolomyia is low, 70-80 cm, blooms early. Flower diameter 13-15, see non-cup, cup-shaped, bright red, petals slightly corrugated.
Svitankova poema (Svitankova Poema), 2011. The variety obtained as a result of triple hybridization. The bush is not high, 60-70 cm, it blooms early. Flower 14-16 cm in diameter, non-cup, cup-shaped, pink in color.
It is impossible to ignore the hybrid Svitlyachok (Svitliachok). 2013 g. It seems that the flower of this peony is shining! It is large enough, with a diameter of 14-16 cm, semi-double, such a beautiful bright pink-coral color, which is difficult to convey in words. Ovary and stigmas cream, stamen filaments yellow. Blooms early. The bush is not high. 65-70 cm, in the garden it looks like a bright glowing island. It is simply impossible to admire Sweetie!
And how good and majestic is the sort of Favoryt, 2009. Its tall bushes (100-110 cm) with thick sturdy stems bloom early. His flowers are terry, 16-18 cm in diameter, dark red, cream ovary, stigmas and filaments of bright pink. The kind of the flourishing bush Favorit so pleases the soul!
Chaklunka, 2003. The cult fascinates with its beauty all those who admire its flowering. A compact bush with a height of 80-90 cm blooms early. The flower is terry, 15-17 cm in diameter, with a very beautiful addition of dark red petals of the bark in a typical structure, flowers do not burn out
in the sun.
I can not ignore the Cheburashka variety, 2011. Pionovods literally hunt for it. Everyone dreams to get it in their collection. But the bushes of Cheburashka are growing very slowly, waiting for the opportunity to share the bush takes a long time, so this peony is still very common. The flower is of Japanese type, cup-shaped, light and small, 11-13 cm in diameter. Petals are dark red, red stigmas, filiform filaments crimson-red, curved inwards. Flowers are very beautiful looking on a low bush (75-80 cm). Blossoms in early terms.
In our garden he blossomed only once and, of course, did not yet have time to reveal his potential. To appreciate the beauty of a peony flower is possible only for the third or fourth year after planting. And if the first flowering did not really impress you, do not be disappointed, give the pion one more chance. Perhaps in a year or two he will restore his good name and surpass all your expectations.
About pions in general and varieties of selection of Vasily Fedorovich Gorobets in particular, I can tell endlessly, they are so interesting. I really respect this remarkable person and appreciate his work. We are just lucky that we live in one country and at the same time with such an outstanding breeder and can first see the fruits of his labors, rejoice in his varieties.
Valentina KUROCHKINA
We plant peonies
The most favorable period for planting herbaceous peonies is the end of August. The plants will have time to take root in a new place, and in the spring they will release many young shoots.
It is ideal to choose an area for these handsome men, well illuminated by the sun for 5-6 hours in the morning. And do not plant them in the lowlands: rhizomes can rot from stagnant water.
Preparation - a week
Prepare a planting pit no later than a week in advance. The root system of adult plants reaches a depth of 70-90 cm - that's the size of the hole for you. Be sure to lay drainage on the bottom to a height of 15-25 cm, fill with gravel, coarse sand, crushed stone or broken brick. Then sprinkle a little with the earth taken out of the pit and fill 2/3 with a nutrient mixture (for 10 kg of compost, 100 g of lime and potassium sulfate, 200 g of superphosphate, 300 g of wood ash). Top up 1/3 with soil.
BTW
By the time the peony is planted, the soil in the pit will sag slightly. The rhizome is planted in it so that the upper bud is buried no more than 4-5 cm. If necessary, add the soil, then tamp it slightly.
© Author: Elena GORBUNOVA, Ph.D. biol. Sciences, Moscow
DIVISION OF PIONES BY RULES
Adult peony bushes, at least 5 years old, can also be divided in August.
First, all the shoots are cut off at a height of about 10 cm from the ground, then the whole bush is dug out.
The roots are washed from the ground with a hose (under pressure) and left in the shade under a canopy for 1-2 days. The roots are very succulent and brittle, so it is important that they stick a little and not break too much when dividing.
Divide the rhizome with a sharp knife and wooden pegs. Cut with a knife, and swing and weaken the root ball with wooden pegs.
The correct cut should have thick and thin roots and at least 2 buds.
The cracks are carefully trimmed with a knife and treated with crushed charcoal (you can use a strong solution of potassium permanganate or brilliant green).
© Author: Lyubov MELNIKOVA, plant collector, Moscow
TREATMENT OF THE ROOT OF A PION BEFORE PLANTING
Before planting, I recommend dipping the peony root in a mixture of clay and copper, the suspension should be thick enough.
I prepare it like this: I fill a bucket with clay by a third and add water, stirring. It is necessary to get the consistency of sour cream.
Then I add a copper-containing preparation (for example, "Median Extra").
When using a powder preparation, it should be diluted in a small amount of warm water. If you have copper sulphate at hand, you need no more than 100 g per 10 liters of talker. I mix the whole mixture thoroughly.
I water these plantings the next day. And I recommend doing the first watering with fertilizer for rooting seedlings "Clean sheet" (according to the instructions).
By the way, my colleagues use the Median Extra preparation even without a clay talker - they cover all the sections and doubtful places with the paste made from it. And after that they are planted.
© Author: Larisa KHARITONOVA, plant collector
TO FLOWER PYONS
Peonies do not always please their owners: sometimes they get sick, sometimes they do not bloom well or do not bloom at all. By following a few rules of agricultural technology, you will always be happy with the result.
Usually a peony begins to bloom 3-4 years after planting. After about 8-10 years, the roots of the plant go deep into the soil, and surface fertilization can no longer cover their nutritional needs. Flowering fades. In this case, it is necessary to apply the fertilizer rate increased by 1-5 times into the grooves of about 2 cm, made with a garden drill at a distance of about 40-25 cm from the plant. If that doesn't work, it's time to replant.
Bushes need to be fed three times per season. The first time (at the beginning of April) - with nitrogen and potassium, for example, potassium nitrate or Ferti-koy, according to the instructions. The second - during budding (late May-early June), they give a complex phosphorus-potassium fertilizer, for example, AVA or another, which mainly contains phosphorus and potassium. The third - after flowering during bud formation (July), the same complex is introduced, completely eliminating nitrogen, because its excess not only entails increased foliage development to the detriment of flowering, but also makes the plant more vulnerable to diseases.
It is better to divide and transplant peonies in August, not more often than once every 3-3, 5 years, while there should be 3-5 buds on the farm. Too frequent division weakens the plant, and rare division does not contribute to the formation of young roots.
Faded inflorescences are cut to the first large leaf. You should also remove leaves with noticeable spotting and prophylactically spray the bushes with copper-containing preparations, and remove all plant residues from the soil.
You can completely cut off shoots only after wilting, at the end of September. Before that, the plant still accumulates nutrients and young roots are formed.
SO DIFFERENT PIONES
Huge blooming "caps" of peonies and their magical aroma cause such delight! I have 15 bushes growing on my site - most of all I love rich cherry and red, with special trepidation I treat soft pink and snow-white.
I want to share some important, in my opinion, observations on the care of these handsome men.
TERRY OR PLAIN?
Most growers plant terry varieties with large inflorescences. However, after rains, strong gusts of wind, saturated with moisture, these "caps" bend under their own weight, break or rot. Knowing this feature, I always tie up the bushes in advance.
Peonies with simple inflorescences (petals in 1-2 rows) look more modest, but in their own way they are cute and sophisticated. The bushes are compact and neat, not so tall, with stronger stems, which is why they keep their shape. There is no need to tie them up: the flowers are light, airy - after rains they do not lie down and do not rot. A real find!
MY MISTAKE
Several years ago, I planted peonies near the brick wall of the house, which gets very hot in the heat. Here they bloom earlier and fade faster. The only plus: the plants are protected from cold winds.
IRRIGATION AND FEEDING OF PIONES
During the period of active growth (in May) and during flowering, I water the peonies abundantly once every 10 days (those that grow against the wall - 3 buckets under the bush), trying to wet the soil layer to the depth of the roots. Good moisture recharge is also important in July, when renewal buds form. When watering, I try not to get on the leaves, so as not to provoke a disease with gray rot.
In dry autumn, I water the bushes in early September: moisture is necessary for the development of young adventitious roots.
FOR PREVENTION OF GRAY ROT IN SPRING THREE TIMES, I TREAT O PIONES WITH 5% SOLUTION OF BORDEAUX LIQUID WITH AN INTERVAL OF 10 DAYS.
During the budding period, I feed the mullein infusion, diluted 1:20. Two weeks after flowering, I exclude nitrogen fertilizing, leaving only phosphorus-potassium - superphosphate (20-30 g each) and potassium sulfate (15 g / sq. M). In September, I mulch with compost - 2 buckets for an adult bush.
In early spring, even over the melted snow, I scatter nitroammofosk (30-40 g / sq. M) over the plantings.
In the autumn, after frost, when the stems are already beginning to lie down, I cut the peonies to ground level. Previously, it was impossible: the rhizome must have time to accumulate enough nutrients for the winter.
© Author: Julia KUPINA, pos. Leninsky, Belgorod region But the photo is the author
LUXURY PEONY
I consider peonies to be one of the most luxurious plants. They decorate the garden not only with magnificent long flowering, but also with beautiful greenery, and they can also grow in one place for a long time without transplanting. My favorite strains are Sarah Bernard, Festiva Maxima, Solange, Frances Willard and Inspector Laverne.
I PRODUCE BY DIVISION
Some flower growers I know sometimes divide and plant bushes in the spring, in late April or early May, and I usually start work from mid-August to mid-September in clear, dry weather. I think this is the best time for propagation and planting.
GARDEN CARE
In the spring, when sprouts appear, I feed peonies with Ideal liquid fertilizer (2 tablespoons / 10 liters of water) or urea (3 tablespoons / 10 liters of water). Before flowering and during it, 2 times a month, before loosening, I add wood ash to the bushes.
I water regularly, especially before and during flowering.
To increase the size of the main (central) flower, I always remove the side buds as soon as they grow to the size of a pea.
In September, when the leaves wither and dry up, I cut them closer to the ground and sprinkle the bushes with humus. I burn the above-ground part.
Experts comments
It is generally accepted that mid-August-late September is the best time for planting peonies in the middle lane. But on personal experience I was convinced that the optimal time is from the beginning of September to mid-October, when the average daily temperature is not lower than + 10 degrees. I plant early varieties first, followed by medium and late varieties. In the first year after planting, it is advisable to cover peonies for the winter with a layer of oak leaves or wood shavings, as well as lutrasil.
It happens that delenki are sold in flower shops in the spring. Such specimens are stored until planting in open ground (in April) in two ways.
In the basement. Delenki are packed in slightly damp moss, peat or sawdust and stored in a cellar, basement or refrigerator (+2-6 degrees) for 1-2 months. As soon as the snow melts, they are planted in cold ground, it is better immediately to a permanent place. Spring frosts are not terrible for peonies.
In a vase. If it is not possible to store delenki, you can plant them in 2-3-liter pots and put them in the coolest place in the house. A handful of dolomite flour is added to the soil. Water infrequently so that the soil is only slightly moist. In April, when the stems grow up to 10-20 cm, they are planted in a permanent place, carefully transferring from the pot, without destroying the earthen clod.
© Author: Ivan KRUGLOV, collector, breeder, Moscow
AROMATIC AND DELICATE PEONY
Peony bloom - a holiday in the garden! How to achieve fabulous beauty from a plant, Tatyana ZHASHKOVA, collector, chairman of the Moscow Flower Growers club, will tell. And the author will share information about various interesting varieties. They are worth taking a look at!
Peony is a long-lived plant. With proper care, it can decorate the garden without dividing and transplanting for decades. One has only to follow some rules of agricultural technology.
PION LANDING PLACE
The site is chosen sunny, away from the root zone of large trees and shrubs, with alkaline or neutral loamy soil. When planting (the ideal time is August), the root neck is deepened so that the growth buds are underground at a depth of 5 cm - for varieties of Lactic Peony and 3 cm - for hybrids.
FEEDING PION
The first feeding is carried out on melting snow - 10-15 g of nitrogen and 10-20 g of potassium for each bush. The second - during the budding period (8-10 g of nitrogen, 10-15 g of potassium, 15-20 g of phosphorus). In my practice, I replace the second root dressing with a foliar one (on a leaf on both sides) with water-soluble fertilizers with Uniflor Buton + Uniflor Micro microelements. I dissolve 1 ml of each product in 2 liters of water. If, in addition to the main flowering shoots, you also leave side shoots on the bushes, then I recommend that you carry out such top dressing in 2 stages, reducing the concentration by half. The first time spray the plants during the formation of buds, the second - immediately after the mass flowering of the main apical shoots.
The third time they are fed 2-3 weeks after flowering - with potassium monophosphate (1 tablespoon per 10 liters of water).
CUTTING
After flowering, wilted flower stalks are removed to the first true leaf. The cut is made with a secateurs or garden shears at an angle of 45 degrees. Moving from bush to bush, the instrument is disinfected (chlorhexidine bigluconate, potassium permanganate or 10% Farmiod solution). Leaves are not removed at the end of summer, but allow the peony to vegetate until October-November.
PREVENTION OF DISEASES
In the garden, I use biological products that are safe for nature. When the average daily temperature exceeds +12 degrees, I carry out the treatment with Gliocladin or Trichocin. For young plants (1 - 2 years old), it is enough to add 1 tablet under a bush, deepening it 1 cm into the ground, at a distance of at least 5 cm from the root collar. After application, it is desirable to moisten and mulch the soil.
After a couple of weeks, I spray the leaf with a “cocktail” from Alirin and Gamair (1 tablet per 1 liter of water). In case of detection of signs of disease, it is better to increase the concentration to 4-5 tablets per 1 liter of water. I moisten the sheet plate abundantly with a solution from above and below. It is also advisable to spray the ground in the trunk circle.
INTERESTING VARIETIES OF PIONS
Bartzella - an outstanding variety of Ito-hybrid of medium late flowering with huge (up to 25 cm in diameter) double flowers of lemon-yellow color and carmine spots at the base of the petals. The bush is well leafy, up to 90 cm high. Stems are strong, easily hold flowers.
Lollipop - late-flowering Ito-hybrid with large (up to 17-20 cm in diameter) double or semi-double flowers. The color of the petals is unstable, characterized by overflows of pale yellow, lemon, salmon tones with purple or crimson strokes, dots and blots. The bush is strong, large, up to 90 cm tall. The variety produces many side buds, which ensures its long flowering.
Another Ito hybrid mid-late flowering period New Millennium - impressed with spectacular view. Semi-double flowers with shining coral-pink petals have a light aroma and have a unique shape. Oval dense petals, starting from large outer ones, gradually decrease towards the center. The bush is compact, 70 cm high.
Early flowering interspecific hybrid variety Sand resistant to fungal diseases, unlike other peonies with dark, brown-red buds. A flower with a diameter of 14 cm, a simple cupped shape, with black-red petals, slightly lighter inside, with a brown tint. The bush is large, 100-110 cm high. The stems are powerful, they do not need support. Another advantage of the variety is that the flowers do not fade in the sun and do not deteriorate from rain.
Early flowering American hybrid Kathy Touch has large (up to 19 cm in diameter) semi-double or double flowers. The pink shade of the inner petals is softer than the outer ones. This is the earliest flowering peony. The bush is compact, stable.
Coral Charm - interspecific hybrid with large (up to 18 cm in diameter) semi-double cupped flowers. When dissolved, the petals have a rich bright coral hue, later brighten. There are light stripes on the outside of the petals. The bush is upright, up to 1 m high. The stems are strong, the leaves are located mainly in the lower part. The presence of side buds prolongs flowering up to 3 weeks. Peduncles are long, with a small number of small leaves. The variety is ideal for cutting. It is also interesting in that it blooms the very last in the entire coral series of peonies.
PIONE FLOWERS FOR BEGINNERS - VIDEO
Below other entries on the topic "Dacha and garden - with their own hands"
- Cultivation and varieties of pions for use in landscape design
- Peonies: planting and leaving in the spring in the open ground
- Grassy and treelike peonies are the difference. Ito peonies
- Why do peonies bloom badly?
- Planting peonies in spring (!) - in pots and ACS
- Own-rooted tree peonies ROKA - planting and care, growing tips
- Peony finelygreen (photo) description and cultivation
- Reproduction of pions (tree-like, grassy), photos, fineness of care and why they do not bloom
- Why peonies do not bloom and what to do to bloom?
- Division and transplantation of pions
Subscribe to updates in our groups and share.
Let's be friends!
#
In the place where the old peony bush grew, over the next two years, young stems may grow from fragments of thin roots left in the soil. So after digging a bush, the resulting hole can be filled with rotten sawdust, mown grass and garden soil, expecting the continuation of the life of an amazingly beautiful flower.
#
Peonies will be luxurious
Not every florist knows how to care for peonies so that they blossom magnificently every year.
During flowering, you need to alternately cut and remove all fading flowers. It is advisable not to let the petals fall inside the bush
Decaying petals easily sit down gray rot and other infections that can spread to stems and roots.
After flowering, you don’t need to cut the whole bush, as some do! At this time, flower buds of the next year are laid and nutrients accumulate in the rhizomes. Therefore, healthy, plentiful foliage is the key to flowering for the next year. I just cut off the remains of peduncles with seed bolls so that they do not spoil the view and do not delay food on the formation of seeds. For the prevention of rot after trimming, I spray the bushes with a solution of copper sulfate.
Also, after flowering I feed peonies with potash phosphorus fertilizer or ashes ashes (a liter ash pot on a bucket of water). The second feeding is done in a month, another one - the end of August. In the heat, I water the bushes once a week.
Peonies have beautiful foliage. Green bushes easily fit into the composition of the flower garden as an ornamental and foliage accent.
I like to alternate peonies with daylilies: they bloom at different times, while the greenery alone shades the beauty of the flowering of others. Finally, the aerial part is cut after the first frost. The base of the bushes for winter is covered with a layer of humus 10 thick. This will keep the kidneys and roots from frost, and in the spring will serve as the first fertilizing.
#
Recipe for pion patients
Last summer, I was upset by the peonies growing on the site.
The buds were fastened, but quickly ceased to develop and shriveled.
What happened to them?
#
It is not excluded that your flowers were affected by gray rot, which usually leads to the drying of the bud and stem. There is a management for this infection. It is necessary to process the bushes of pions with copper sulfate or Bordeaux liquid. Effectively deal with this disease, such biochemicals as "Gliokladin", "Alirin" and "Gamair". They are usually used in a complex.
When in spring the average daily temperature is set at 10 degrees Celsius, next to the roots of a 1-2-year-old plant a Gliocladin tablet is laid to a depth of 5-10 cm. Adult bushes will need a dose increased by 2-3 times, depending on the size and the age of peonies. Two weeks later, the foliage of the plants must be treated with a solution of Alirina and Gamair (1 tablet per 1 liter of water). Weakened and diseased plants must be sprayed several times. This procedure is best repeated 4-5 times per season, and at the end of August - September, peony bushes should be treated again with "Gliocladin."
The florist Anna Petrovna Blazhko answered the reader's questions, Minsk
#
Even now, peonies with a closed root system are offered. Is it worth it to risk acquiring them?
After all, these plants are recommended to be planted in August-September.
#
Peonies with a closed root system are offered for sale not only in spring, but also throughout the summer. Almost all flower editions write that they are best planted in autumn, in August-September. And in the old European books dating back to the last century, authoritative pion experts say that it's as good to plant pions with an open root system in the spring as well as in autumn, most importantly, do not disturb old bushes, that is, you can not divide large pion bushes in the spring.
According to our personal experience, peonies, left from autumn and kept in peat in the cellar at a temperature of 0- + 4 degrees, planted at the end of April and beginning of May in the cold ground, not yet warmed by the May sun, are well rooted, go into growth and nothing do not differ from the autumn planting. Peonies in containers can be planted in the ground at any time by the way of transshipment. The main thing is that the earth clod does not crumble.
#
I help my grandmother to take care of the plot. She has many peonies. What to do with them in May?
#
In one place, a grassy peony can grow and bloom for 20 to 50 years or more. In the first decade of May, many varieties of peonies form buds. At this time, plants older than 5-6 years old need to be fed - they make an aqueous infusion of mullein (1:20), which was in the process of fermentation, with the addition of superphosphate (20 g), potassium sulfate (15 g), ammonium nitrate (10 g) on a bucket of mortar. Pour fertilizer under each plant into a groove around the bush. Young plants can be fed with a solution of mineral fertilizers.
With the appearance of the tops of the shoots, weeds are removed from the ground, the ground around the bushes is gently loosened at a distance from the bush in 10-15 cm, the rhizomes are protected, the earth layer is scoured in 4-7 cm to the bush. Shoots need daily watering, especially with the formation of buds and flowering.
#
Peonies planted in the autumn. Everyone knows this rule. And it is better not to violate it. But one day it turned out that I had prepared a place for new varieties, and the delenki brought me too late. I did not dare to plant them, and besides the weather was so rainy!
Belated delenki I wrapped and planted in pots, cleaned in the basement. In this prison they spent the winter. As soon as the soil thawed, I rescued my peonies from confinement and landed them. Fear that the frosts still happen, but despite them, the peonies took root, although they lagged behind in development in the first year.
#
Often the flower growers, in order to decorate the flower bed, immediately after the peonies bloom, the leaves and peduncles are cut off to zero.
This brings great harm to the plant.
Faded peonies begin to lay flower buds and store nutrients. Cutting leaves, we deprive plants of photosynthesis. But the peduncles really interfere, absorbing nutrients to form seeds. They need to be deleted. Leaves must be cut only after the first frosts. If the plant is healthy, they can be used as mulch.
#
I really like peonies. These are the flowers of my childhood. I remember when I was still very young, my mother always grew pink peonies. I could not look at them. Now these charming flowers occupy an honorable place in my garden. Apart from the pink ones, I spread white and crimson.
Peonies planted at the end of August on a sunny, sheltered from the winds place, so that they bloomed magnificently. It is better not to have them near houses and trees, since near the buildings a spring drop from the roofs is dangerous, and under the trees they will not have enough light and moisture.
Flowers grow well with slight shading at noon hours: the color will be brighter and the bloom will last longer. Soil should be neutral, without stagnation of moisture.
When planting plants I sprinkle the roots with soil, compact, water, periodically loosen the soil. Withered flowers delete. Division of bushes I spend every 5 years.
Before the onset of frost, usually at the end of October, the leaves and stems are pruned. If this is done earlier, the roots will not be able to gain strength for the next season, which means that there will be no flowering or it will be very weak. The place of planting is covered with lapnik. In winter I throw a lot of snow.
In spring, peonies are fed with bone meal (300 g under the bush) and watered with ashes (1 glass on 1 bucket) 1 times in 3 weeks. Against gray rot I spray sprouts of pions with copper-containing preparations. In autumn the bushes are covered with humus.
#
When is it best to plant peonies?
#
To hide the new peonies planted this year by peanuts for the winter was necessary only at a high risk of a snowless and frosty winter (with a temperature below -20 ° C). For this you can use lapnik. If such a dry snap in the region of the country where you live is unlikely, then there is nothing to be afraid of. But to cover up the planting with dry peat layer of 10 cm was worth anyway. And it is best in winter to protect the young peony breathable top layer of soil mixture right in the landing pit.
#
Growing peonies in my garden, I have established several reasons why they bloom badly ...
Incorrect seating. The bush is planted too deep or too shallow. From the upper kidney to the soil surface should be 3-5 cm on heavy soils and 5-7 - on light soils.
Unsuccessful landing site. Peonies love open, sunny places without stagnation of water. You should not plant peonies near the wall of the building and near the trees.
The plant is young or small. If the plant is newly planted or its little girl has only 2 buds, then you should wait until the bush grows.
Frequent transplantation or frequent division of the bush. This leads to depletion of plants.
Lack of nutrition. The buds appear, but do not fully open. And for lush flowering, peonies need to be fed before and after flowering - just at that time the formation of renewal buds takes place, which are laid 2 years before flowering.
Lack of moisture. In the period of budding and after flowering peonies require good watering.
Lack of potassium in the soil. If the soil is podzolic, peonies must be supplemented with potassium sulfate or calimagnesium.
Too old bush. Perhaps, it should be divided and transplanted long ago. Do this in the second half of the summer. In this case, old bushes can not be divided for many years, whereas hybrid varieties are transplanted once in 4-5 years. To do this, a sharp knife neatly divides the excavated bush so that each division has well-developed roots and three buds. Then dig holes with a diameter of 50 cm and a depth of 60 cm. At the bottom, drain the drainage with a layer of 15 cm, then 2 buckets of humus or compost mixed with lime (250 g), simple superphosphate (300 g), calimagnesia (200 g) or ash 300 d). Place the peony in such a way that the buds when planted were buried at 5 see. And fill well with the overripe compost.
If you follow these rules, peonies will thank you with a stunning bloom.
#
Increasingly, peonies grown from meristem material are offered. Should I buy them?
#
Earlier I cut pions immediately after flowering. But in this period, flower buds are laid. In addition, the flower stalk and leaves are needed for plants to accumulate nutrients for further development.
And I still could not understand why my handsome men developed worse, lost decorativeness, faintly blossomed. It turned out that you should not rush with pruning. Now I plan this work with the onset of stable frosts. Above the ground I leave a stump in 20 cm (for winter I cover with sawdust).
#
Indeed, do not cut the peonies after flowering. It is enough to remove faded stems, so that plants do not waste their nutrients on the tying and development of fruits. But the leaves are still involved in the process of photosynthesis and nourish the whole plant.
But there are situations, more often in the southern regions, when the peonies planted in the open place begin to dry up after the flowering and twist the leaves, the decorativeness of not only themselves but also the flower garden as a whole decreases. In such cases, dry leaves, shoots, which are of little use, are removed, not waiting for autumn, or in its very beginning - September. The time of autumn pruning is prompted by the peonies themselves - when their stems fall to the ground. You can leave hemps 2 in length - then it will be easier to mulch them for the winter. As a mulch it is better to use not dry sawdust, but dry peat and pion leaves, if they are not sick.
Lyudmila ULEYSKAYA, Cand. Biol. Sciences, Yalta
#
Peonies: transfer
In mid-late August, I divide and transplant peonies.
I prepare the pits with a depth of at least 60 cm, a diameter of 60-70 cm. Then I fill the 2 / 3 with a mixture of compost that has reparted manure and land in equal parts. Plus in each pit I add on 400 g bone meal and 200 g superphosphate. The upper third of the pit, where the roots are located, is covered with soil from the upper layer. I divide the bush into parts (each chunk is with 2-3 kidneys). When planting, the root neck on heavy soils is buried at 5 cm, on the lungs - at 7,5 cm. With a deeper planting, the peonies may not bloom.