Their seeds of tomatoes and cucumbers - readers' advice
Cultivated from their own seeds, tomatoes are more delicious!
Harvesting your tomato seeds
I leave to the seeds the best fruits (not hybrids).
In August, as soon as they mature well, I tear them from the bushes, cut them and release the seeds in a glass. I add a little water and put it on a well-lit window sill.
In a day, when the seeds are cleared of mucus and fall to the bottom, I wash them in a strainer, rub it on a clean sponge for washing dishes and dry well on the windowsill 4-5 days. Then I pour into paper filters for coffee or matchboxes, sign the marker and store it in a dry place. I sow on seedlings only for the third year.
Tatiana Boardern
In the first week of August 2-3 liked the fruit directly on the bushes tied clean rags. When tomatoes overripe, tear off and clean the teaspoon seeds in a small strainer.
I rinse under a stream of warm water, a little rubbing my fingers.
Tweezers spread them one at a distance of 2-3 cm on a strip of toilet paper and dry on the closet. After 5-7 days, when they dry well, I roll the paper into a roll, sign it, wrap it for reliability in a bag and put it in a bag in which I store all the seeds.
Elena ABRAMOVICH
See also: How to harvest and store seeds from their plants
Harvesting your cucumber seeds
The best testes of cucumbers are large "yellows" (photo 1) with a yellow-brown rough skin and four sinuses for seeds - they have 4 protrusions along the entire length, i.e. in cross-section in shape similar to the square (photo 2).
Cucumbers with three sinuses, on the cut resembling a triangle - "male", their seed shoots practically do not give.
To collect the seeds, hybrids are also not suitable (on packages, they are designated after the name by the F1 index).
At the end of August and beginning of September, I dispose of dried plants, and transfer the testes to a dry, well-lit place on the site.
If the autumn weather does not spoil, I leave the "yellows" ripen on the windowsill: they are afraid of cold weather and do not tolerate frost. When the testes become soft, gently cut each in half and a teaspoon, I clean the seeds on a saucer.
Then gently wash in clean water, lay out on the marlechka and dry on the windowsill.
I store it by wrapping it in a clean white paper (rag), in a dry place. Sow on the second and third goal after the collection.
Mikhail LIMARENKO
Very often, readers write that they prefer to buy seeds in stores - they say they are already processed and therefore have less trouble with them.
This, of course, is so. But are you 100% sure of the germination of such material? But he is worth the money, and not small. No, I personally prefer to grow plants from my own harvested seeds. If nothing has grown (or everything is crooked-oblique), it means that she herself is to blame - there is reason to think.
To get the seeds of beets, carrots, radishes and cabbage, their saddle (so my mom called the root crops), I select and cook from the autumn. The first three cultures carefully cut off the leaves, and in cabbage I remove the upper damaged leaves (if any).
All the seed roots are in the basement: I put them on top of potatoes scattered on the floor, or I hang them in baskets under the ceiling. In April, I take out the saddles, check them, put the rotten ones aside, and I powder the good ones with ashes.
I plant them in old buckets filled with fertile soil, mixed with humus, and put in a warm place. For a month, the gardeners manage to take root and even begin to grow.
In May, I plant them, covering them with other old buckets (without a bottom) so that they do not suffer from frost (I remove them in the first half of June). I water it regularly, and feed it only with tincture of herbs and mullein. And over the summer planting time to bloom and give seeds. In autumn, I cut the tops of the roots, put them in pillowcases and hang them in the barn - after a couple of weeks the seeds dry.
But in April I planted the seed onion on the chernushka immediately in the ground, although it has not yet completely warmed up. All the trick is that the bow is afraid of the cold and from this necessarily starts to shoot, and this is exactly what I need! I tie these arrows to the pegs driven in next to them, and they ripen in this form until the fall. And there I gather them, without cutting them, into bundles and wrap them with rags so that the dried and ripened seeds do not scatter. Later I cut everything, dry it in the room and grind it - the planting material for the chernushka is ready.
But the seeds of radishes can be obtained in the same year: pull out overgrown specimens, drop them on the edge for an hour or two, and then plant on some vacated garden and pour. By autumn this radish will have time to blossom and give seeds.
I store all seed in paper bags and rag bags. Here you must also remember that everything has its own storage period. For example, in carrots, celery and parsnips, this is only 1-2 years, onions, radishes, dill and radishes - 2-3, in eggplants - 2-4, in rutabaga - 3-4, in cabbage - from 3 to 5 years, for tomatoes - from 5 to 7, for cucumbers - from 6 to 7, and for zucchini - from 6 to 8 years.
During this time, the seeds have good germination, and then it starts to drop sharply. Therefore, when I collect seeds, I necessarily sign not only the grade, but also the year of release.
Galina EREMINA Chernogorok. Khakassia
Own tomato seeds - video
About how to collect and save see your tomato seeds here also
Below other entries on the topic "Dacha and garden - with their own hands"
- The use in the garden of a black non-covering material - non-woven (AGROFIBER): my advice
- Flowers and plants for the garden in the shade
- Reproduction by air layering - how to?
- How to speed up the fruiting tree? Table memo
- Recipes for the preparation of solutions for spraying the garden from diseases and pests
- How to choose the right seeds for planting. Energy of seeds.
- Prevention of diseases and pests on vegetable plants - shelter, sun protection, etc.
- Signs of improper care of plants (vegetables): table-MEMBER for the gardener and the summer resident
- Care of seedlings: selection and compilation of soil, lighting and packaging - feedback from readers
- My feedback on mulching strawberries with non-woven film!
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Cucumbers and tomatoes - as if from a garden
To keep cucumbers and tomatoes fresh longer, I have my own tricks.
I store tomatoes in boxes - I place them in cells in one layer with the stalks up. Young tomatoes do not spoil like this for about 2 months. It is only important that initially the fruits are strong, without the slightest damage to the skin.
After collecting cucumbers, I first put them in the shadow for a while and cover them with a cloth. In order for the Zelentsy to lie in the refrigerator for at least two weeks, I do so. At the bottom of the tank I pour a little table vinegar, set the grate on top, and put cucumbers on it, but so that they do not touch the liquid. Cover with a lid, put it in the fridge.
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At one time, I also looked for good seeds of cucumbers, tried new ones every year. I will say right away: growing cucumbers from my seeds is a dead end.
You sow your favorite finger. A bee flew in from Phoenix. What sort of seed will be in a cucumber? Then you write: barren. Why admire him? There should be a cucumber with a flower, not a flower without a cucumber. Trust the professionals. So, my rating of cucumbers for today:
• Dutch: Hermann, Meringue, Pasalimo, Crispina, Artist, etc.
• Russian (on packing): Courage, Murashka.
• Other: Power, Labyrinth.
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Previously, I tried to collect only seeds of pumpkin, tomato and pepper. And this year were particularly successful varieties of beets and carrots, but in the spring did not record their names. How to get the seeds of these roots?
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To get quality seeds of beets and carrots, immediately after harvesting I select the largest root crops without cracks and other flaws. I leave long hemp stems (up to 15 cm). I put it in wooden boxes, plentifully pour with wet river sand, so that the vegetables do not touch each other. I keep in the cellar.
In February, right in the boxes I put in the house to make green leaves. As necessary, I moisten the sand.
In the spring, when the earth warms up to + 10 ... + 15 degrees, I dig a bed on the bayonet of a shovel. At a distance of 20 cm from each other, I form holes in size slightly larger than the root crop. In each bag of handful of humus or compost, pour water to the very top and wait until it is completely absorbed. I add some more water, I transfer root crops from boxes to the land slurry, fill the soil with sprouts, sprinkle with my palms.
In the future, if necessary, I loosen the garden, weed and water. Seeds do not ripen at the same time, that's why I collect them from carrots when the edges of umbrellas will grow brown and curl inwards, and beets will cause the seminal glomeruli to turn brown.
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In my opinion, the seeds grown by their own hands are of higher quality. They are obtained from those plants that were formed in local conditions, and therefore the seeds will be adapted to the climate of a particular locality. Vegetables from them will grow healthier!
At the end of summer, the seeds of onion-chernushka ripen - they are in inflorescences-umbrellas. It is necessary to collect when the first seed boxes open on an umbrella. Arrows should be cut, bundled and hung for final ripening under a canopy. While the inflorescences dry, they need to put on gauze covers and periodically shake the drying heads. Then it will be enough to pour the seeds from these caps.
Collected seeds should be filled with water - everything that has surfaced can be safely thrown away. Drowned seeds must be dried - they will become the seed for next year. It is convenient to store them until spring in paper bags or fabric bags in a dry place.