When to clean and how to store beets
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Cleaning and proper storage of beets - professional advice
Hurry with harvesting is not necessary: in the unripened beets do not have time to accumulate vitamins, and because of a thin skin reduces the shelf life. But it's also not necessary to delay the harvesting - the overripe fruits become fibrous, "wooden" and are also poorly stored.
How to know that the beet has matured
Determine that the roots are ripe, you can by the following signs:
- diameter and mass of the fetus correspond to the description of the variety;
- the leaves turn yellow and become thin at the base.
Usually in the middle band beets are removed in the second half of September. This is also due to the fact that even minor frosts can ruin the entire crop.
Beet harvesting rules
To keep the beets well, take them out on a dry, cool day, dig up the plants with a shovel or pitchfork. Do not pull them out by the leaves.
Clear root crops from the clotted earth, thus to strike them against each other, as do some truck farmers, I do not advise.
Cut the stems and side branches with a knife, leave the hemp with a height of 1-1,5. See cuts with ashes.
Dry the crop in sunny weather right on the ground (enough 3-4-h hours), on a cloudy one - lay it on the floor in a ventilated room or under a canopy (in this case, the drying will go from 3 to 5 days).
For long-term storage, select healthy, even, medium-sized root crops.
See also: Beet cleaning
For storage
Before laying a crop in a cellar or a cellar, clean it there, disinfect, ventilate and dry the room.
For the preservation of vegetables, the optimum temperature is from 0 to + 2 degree, (at humidity 90%). It is also important that air can circulate freely. On the floor, lay wooden lattices (pallets) with a height of 15-20 cm, walls of the beet box make 1-1,2 m.
By the way, the beets are perfectly stored, if you spread it over the top of the potato, - root crops absorb excess moisture and remain juicy and elastic. If there are trellised boxes or wicker baskets, you can combine the yield in them by pouring each layer of beet with dry river sand, wood ash or table salt.
© Author: Ioannina GORBATENKO, agronomist-chemist
Beets - growing planting and care: reviews and tips
Beet tasty and healthy
Beets are a healthy vegetable. I'll tell you a few secrets of a delicious beet crop. But for starters - a little about how the size of root crops affects their use in food. So, small and medium-sized root crops are better in quality. than large ones, and the first ones are great for canning. In the basement, it is the middle-sized beets that last the longest.
When to sow?
You can sow beets in the winter and spring. For sowing in late October or early November, cold-resistant varieties that do not shoot for a long time are suitable. I begin spring sowing when the soil warms up to + 5 ... + 7 CC. Focus on the fact that the seeds are sown after carrots for 1-2 weeks. Shoots are very sensitive to short-term frosts (to -4 ° C), and a prolonged decrease in temperature to -5 ... -6 ° C can lead to premature formation of flower shoots. In autumn, the seeding rate can be increased by a quarter, but spring crops do not need to be thickened. On heavy soils, the embedment depth is 2,5-3 cm, and on light soils 3-4 cm.
Purge
Beets have interesting seeds - they are fertility; in other words, they are spliced I? several in one glomerulus. That is why several seedlings are formed from one fruit tree at once, which must be thinned out, otherwise they overshadow each other and interfere with normal development. When thinning them, it is best to immediately dive - pinch the root root and transplant one at a time, without deepening the neck of the root. First time, seedlings are thinned out in the phase of 3-4 real leaves at a distance of 2-3 cm, then after 10-14 days up to three to four times. At the last thinning between plants, about 8-10 cm remain.
Beets are a healthy vegetable. I'll tell you a few secrets of a delicious beet crop. But for starters - a little about how the size of root crops affects their use in food. So, small and medium-sized root crops are better in quality than large ones, and the first ones are great for canning. In the basement, it is the middle-sized beets that last the longest.
Feeding
Table beets uniquely badly tolerate organic fertilizers and manure, but it will grow well if they were introduced in the previous year under the previous crop. A plant with a lack of boron is often amazed by insidious phomosis, which, incidentally, is invisible in the summer, and when stored causes rotting of the fetus, besides, in the absence of this element, the disease "rot heart" develops. On poor peaty soils microelements must be applied boron fertilizers in the calculation of 3 g / m2.
Is it necessary to feed beets at all? This question is asked by every gardener. I will answer: on fertile soils, you can do without any fertilizing at all. These root crops are capable of accumulating nitrates - up to 8000 mg / kg, so if you need additional nutrition, you should not get carried away with this activity. It is better to use potash fertilizers with a chlorine content, which helps to reduce nitrates one and a half times.
Before cleaning
In late August - early September there is an increased outflow of nutrients from leaves to root crops, therefore, during this period, plants in dry weather need deep loosening of the soil between the rows and irrigation. Watering a week before harvesting should not be missed - thanks to this procedure, the best preservation of root crops in the winter is provided.
© Author: Ivan Vladimirovich Sverdlovsky, an experienced gardener-gardener from Uglich, Yaroslavl region.
Below other entries on the topic "Dacha and garden - with their own hands"
- Beetroot (not to thin)
- Beet planting patterns
- Beet seedlings - subtlety tips and secrets, pros and cons
- Growing beets - my secrets and feedback based on experience
- Growing and cleaning of beets
- Own beet seeds - cultivation, collection and selection
- To make the beets sweet - planting and care
- Winter beet planting - what are its huge advantages
- The most delicious beet varieties - my review, tips and reviews about the variety Bagryanaya
- Growing beets in the Leningrad region - planting and care
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Beet seeds can be “rushed” and thereby approximate the time of obtaining the root crop. This should be done at the stage of preparation of the fruit for sowing.
First of all, to saturate the seeds with nutrients, they should be soaked for a day in a solution of any of the following drugs. Calculation is given on 1 l of water with a temperature of 30 degrees: “Energene” (10 drops), “Bud” (1 g), “Agri-cola-4” (1 tsp), superphosphate (1 tsp. ), sifted wood ash (1 Art. l.). After that, slightly washed in running water, the fruit should be germinated in moist material at a temperature of 20-25 degrees until mass germination. Usually it takes 2-3 days. During this time, it is necessary to maintain tissue moisture. Sowing germinated seeds is carried out only in moist soil.
Another way to “rush” seeds is to harden them. About 2 weeks before sowing, the seeds are laid out with a layer of 3-4 cm in enameled or glassware and poured with water for 1,5 days. Then cover with a damp cloth until swelling, and then put in the refrigerator for a week.
Note
Beet seeds are tightly “packed” in 3-5 pieces in hard boxes. And a completely useless exercise is to try to extract them from there: nothing will work. Therefore, we have to put up with the fact that when sowing, each fertility gives several seedlings. And so that the plantings are not thickened, the plants must be thinned out.
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Beet roots do not want to fill, the tops are frozen and not developing. I thought to feed the plants with mullein, but neighbors discourage. According to them, in the middle of summer you can only use complex mineral fertilizer, and it is better to embed it in the grooves in 15 cm from the row.
Is this true?
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- Your neighbors are absolutely right. Korovyak and other fertilizers with a high content of nitrogen stimulate active growth of foliage. In the middle of summer this will be at the expense of the fruits. Therefore, give preference to mineral fertilizers. Liberally pour and loosen the garden bed. Fill the grooves in 10-15 cm from the landings superphosphate at the rate of 1 st.l. on 1 sq.m. After this, water the plants with a solution of potassium sulfate (15 g per 10 l of water per 1 sq. M).
Please note that growth retardation may be due to temperature changes, drought, shortage and even excess nutrition.
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Sergey writes with great love about a vegetable such as beetroot, forgotten by many summer residents. But at the end of his story, he killed all love with “heavy artillery” - copper sulfate. I think that this drug can be used (if there is no other way out!) Only when saving fruit trees, and then only in the fall, so that during the winter it will lose its monstrous forces for all life force.
If someone eats up beets, I advise you to pour it with a weak saline once or twice: you will scare away uninvited eaters and the root crops themselves will become sweeter (this technique also applies to carrots). In general, there is no need to hurry with planting beets - if the soil is cold, it will go to the arrow. I personally plant beets (and the same carrots) only under the Trinity, in spite of neither the usual calendar nor the lunar one. And there has never been a misfire, but my grandmother taught me this.
After harvesting, I cut off all the root crops with “meat” so that they do not grow in winter, but I leave their tails on the whole. I keep it by spreading the beets on the potatoes - they protect each other from rot. If you want to collect your seeds, leave two-centimeter “cuttings” on some of the largest beets, plant them in the spring and immediately hammer nearby pegs for garter. And remove the excess color! That’s the whole secret of good seed.
Beets grow very well in a single-row planting - along carrots, onions and garlic, which protect it from any pests (although, perhaps, the marigolds growing in me everywhere, contribute their contribution).
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Three years in a row the sown beets went to the arrow. Why does this happen?
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- The causes of beetrooting in the first year are usually two.
Low air and ground temperatures after sowing. At + 4 ... + 10 degrees, the seeds go through the vernalization stage, and the growth bud turns into a flower bud. Therefore, sow beet seeds when the soil temperature at the depth of sowing reaches +8 ... + 10 degrees. And in case of return frosts for a period of lowering temperature, cover the bed with beet spanbond.
The second reason is substandard seeds. Some producers receive beet seeds in one year, by reducing the cost of growing plants in the first year to reduce costs. Such seeds give plants that bloom in the first year. Therefore, I recommend to change the seeds.
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To make the beets grow sweet, without rings and veins, in autumn, the future bed is sprinkled with a layer of manure in 5 cm. In the spring, I am introducing wood ash (1 st., 1 sq.m.) under the dig.
After the first thinning, I feed the plants with a solution of Mullein (1: 8) or chicken manure (1: 12). In 5 cm from the roots form a groove depth of 5-7 cm, where I pour out the nutrient composition, so as not to burn the roots.
To saturate plants with potassium and phosphorus, when the tops begin to close, I plant the beds with wood ash (1-2 st., At 1 sq.m.). I repeat this top dressing when root crops are already actively gaining mass.
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Why did the beet grow with white veins, and carrots with a light large and almost tasteless core?
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Most likely, you got low-quality seeds of hybrids. Vegetables showed signs of wild plants, which are highly resistant to disease, but do not taste very good.
It is these that breeders most often use when creating hybrid varieties. But when crossing passes with disturbances, then, besides the advantages, plants get disadvantages. Beetroot ring and fibrous, in carrots - light color and a large proportion of the core in the root crop. Most likely, when crossing plants of different varieties, BAD were isolated from each other.
To exclude such phenomena, between cross-dusted plants should be about 1000 m. Unfortunately, in seed-growing farms poorly mop around the surrounding areas. Hence the genes of wild plants, which introduce unwanted signs. Roots that have grown in your beds can be eaten, but it is better to start them for processing, wiping them on a small grater so that their flaws can not be seen, or sent to animal feed.
And in the future I recommend buying seeds only from trusted producers.
Anton LESHCHEV, Cand. of sciences
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If the leaves of beets begin to appear rounded yellow spots - the plants lack potassium. Spread around the root crops of wood ash (1 station on 1 sq. Beds), and then loosen the soil.
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I want to share a good cough recipe with readers. I perfectly understand those who after a cold suffer a protracted cough. This is such an infection, which, if attached, then it will not simply retreat.
At me and most sometimes in the mornings a cough as a crash of a waterfall. It helps me one recipe, which I advise everyone who has a "weak throat".
Rub the raw beet in such quantity to fill the glass. Add 8 to the 2 art. l. apple cider vinegar and stir. Leave to infuse for an hour and a half. After that, take 10 tsp every 1 minutes. Beetroot and slowly dissolve in the mouth. For a day or two a cough will pass! In any case, I do not use any tablets.
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I was convinced that you do not need to plant beets early, because Lowering the temperature (which often happens at the beginning of the season) can lead to the formation of flower shoots. If you need an early beet, then it is better to plant it on a seedling in a greenhouse, because it transits the transplant without losses.
My favorite varieties are Cylinder and Commander. To make beets grow sweeter, a month before harvesting, I feed her with phosphorus-potassium fertilizer, which accelerates the outflow of nutrients from leaves to root crops.
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Last year, by early March, the beets in the cellar began to rot. Those few root crops, which have not yet succumbed to the infection, decided to use to forcing fresh greenery. Deep plastic containers were disinfected with a saturated solution of potassium permanganate, rinsed with pink solution and root vegetables. At the bottom of the tanks poured a drainage layer of broken brick. Then - river sand (3 cm). And on top is a mixture of turf ground, humus and peat (1: 2: 3).
She drank copiously with warm water.
Root crops planted without gaps, sprinkled with soil, not reaching 1-2 cm to the head, and then fell asleep to the top with sand. The first 7 days kept in the hallway (where it is darker and cooler than everything), then moved to the battery. The first time abundantly drizzled beets through 2 weeks after planting. Later, watered rarely, but checked that the soil under the layer of sand was always wet. And after a week later 3 cut the first tender leaves into borsch. Beets on the windowsill pleased the whole family with fresh herbs until the summer, and there already appeared a lot of delicious things on the beds.
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For a good harvest beets do not need anything much, except for light, fertile, not too wet soil, light, regular, but moderate watering. This beetroot is very useful for health. In boiled form it improves the metabolism, stabilizes the work of the intestines, cleans it of toxins.
Beet juice in combination with apple is effective in anemia. It is necessary to squeeze out a glass of apple juice and mix it with 1 / 4 glass of beet juice. Drink in the mornings every day for 2 weeks.
With avitaminosis, a mixture of beet and carrot juice is very useful (1: 2). You need to drink 10 days for 1 a glass.
If a runny nose appears, the beet juice should be diluted with boiled water (1: 1) and instilled a solution into each nostril for 1-2 drops.
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grown beets in the country - how and when to clean it?
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Thekla Beetroot (September 1) - in dry sunny weather, the beginning of harvesting beets, the first of root crops. It is harvested earlier than carrots when the first light frosts appear: large root crops, protruding above the soil, are more damaged by cold (at t minus 1 ° С), which makes them unsuitable for storage.
Mid-season beetroots are harvested when its leaves are yellowed and dried: late August - first half of September. Late ripening varieties are harvested from the second half of September to the end of October. The beets are carefully dug up with a pitchfork, they are removed from the soil by hands, slightly cleared from the ground, they are not washed, the tops are immediately cut with a sharp knife at a height of 0,5-2 cm or twisted flat with the head.
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After transplanting the beets to the garden, the roots grew with large white veins, but at the same time, there were no such problems for the remaining plants in the nursery. Soil and care for the whole beet were the same. Why did it happen?
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In fact, there are quite a few reasons for this. Let's understand: since these are the same plants, we can exclude the first reason - the low quality of the seeds. The second probable reason is the lack of fertilizers. For example, in this way beets can react to a lack of potassium. In this case, it was enough for you to make 250 g of wood ash at 1 sq. M, so that the problem disappears.
The third option is incorrect watering. You can not water the beets with large interruptions, it is better to do this often, but gradually, so that the soil is constantly a bit damp. If the beet was actively growing, the white strips can also indicate that there are a lot of fertilizers in the soil. This is good, and bad at the same time: on the one hand, the roots were quickly poured, and on the other, they could accumulate nitrates.