September in the flower garden: what to do before the frost
Contents ✓
September works in a flower garden
To flower in the next season fragrant and pleased with bright colors, take care of it in the beginning of autumn. We plan the main work.
Planting small onions ...
The first decade of September - the time of planting of Pushkin, Hionodox and other small-bellied.
They grow well on warm, early warming areas with light or medium loam rich in organic matter.
On the previous place, plant them not earlier than in 5-7 years. At the bottom of the landing pit, fill in the clean river sand with a layer of 2-3 cm (it will protect the bulb of the bulb from pathogens).
See also: Bulbous for the spring flower garden - what to plant and how to arrange
... and the rest of the bulbs
When the soil temperature drops to + 10 degree, plant the bulbs of tulips, daffodils, hazel grouses, hyacinths.
When planting the bulbs, place the bottoms down.
The exception is tall hazel grouse: to wait for flowering next spring, they should be planted at an angle of 45 degrees. After planting and watering, note the place of landing, so that it can not be accidentally dug.
Seedlings in the ground
The first decade of September is also ideal for planting biennial seedlings in the soil. The distance between plants depends on their ability to grow. For example, pansies, forget-me-nots, daisies, primroses and most ground cover plants plant at a distance of 15-20 cm from each other. Between the lunarias, bells, catchments, nivets, yarrows and lichnis leave gaps in 30 cm, and between tall
Bulbous flowers are planted when the temperature of the soil at a depth of 10-12 CM decreases to + 9-10 degrees.
frogs, malvies, hsperris and delphiniums - 40-50, see. After planting, sprout well, and compact the soil around and peel with peat. Only make sure that peat does not hit the center of the outlet. Otherwise primroses, daisies can "fall out", because point of growth and flower buds, of which in the future will develop peduncles, rot.
Perennials: divide the rhizome ...
In September, irises, peonies, daylilies, rhubarb propagate by chunks - pieces of rhizome (with 2-3 buds renewed on each and a sufficient number of roots).
It is better to propagate plants at the age of 3-4-x years (this refers to most perennials). In old shrubs, a large number of kidneys develop on the rhizome, which eventually begin to compete for living space. As a result, in the center of the bud bud, renewal is weak, and on the periphery - more viable.
Therefore, when dividing, use the material from the outer part of the rhizome, and remove the central part.
The bush is better divided into an 3-5 delenok. Then plants can bloom already in the first year, and from the second form powerful flowering bushes.
... and the bush
Some perennials (budera, veronica, clove garden, oregano, hyssop, bell, daylily, daisy, primula), forming daughter plants, multiply by dividing the bush.
For planting, excavate the pit so that the roots can be freely placed in it (while broken, rotted, cut with a sharp knife, slices sprinkle with crushed coal). Season with a mixture of humus and soil. When planting the delineas, look at the root neck of the mother shoot, which should be at the same level as before reproducing. Plants with a root rosette of leaves plant so that the center of the rosette is not buried into the ground. Soil after pressing firmly, squirt.
FOR NOTIFICATION: LANDING
Soil temperature: + 9 ... + 10 degrees.
Depth of embarkation:
- White-flower:
- large - 15 cm, small - 10cm;
- Kandyk: large - 20 cm, small - 12 cm;
- bird-bird, sparse, Pushkinia, Hionodox: large - 15 cm, small - 10 cm;
- hyacinth, narcissus: 10-15 cm;
- tulip: early varieties - 8-10 cm, later - 10-15 cm
Distance between bulbs: about 10-15 cm
See also: Preparing the flower garden for the winter
FROM PERSONAL EXPERIENCE:
I'm not a supporter of "milling" plants on a single kidney. Nevertheless, I apply this method to daylilies, irises, pions. I will explain: in the first 2 years after the division, the plants develop slowly, blossom only at 2-3-th year (on 2-th year it is better to even remove peduncles so that the flowers grow better). But on 3-4-th year after a shallow division the root system is completely updated.
And in the future these plants are stronger and more durable than those obtained from the standard division.
Cut the roots at approximately 1 / 3 in order to stimulate the growth of young lateral roots.
When dividing and transplanting perennials in early September, some amateur growers neglect pruning the aboveground part. As a result, the plants get sick, which subsequently has a bad effect on flowering. Leave from the ground about 15-20 cm, and remove the rest safely!
Flower diary: September
In early autumn, the flower garden is still full of work.
A competently plan everything to help the lunar calendar.
Svetlana Ryzhkina, the flower grower
Preparing for spring already in September
Our flowers are tired of sultry August.
Sun-drenched many of them blossomed exhausted, withered, barely having time to blossom. We tried to make life easier for them by frequent watering, spraying, but it's not within our power to reduce the degrees in the middle of the day.
In September, we will help perennials recover, so that in the winter they will go strong. We feed it with phosphorus-potassium fertilizers. We remove the leaves dried out by heat, we will cut out the faded stems to return the form to the perennials.
prepare areas for planting and transplantation: we'll compost, humus, add superphosphate, potassium sulfate and dig. Dry plots for a few days before the digging is necessary.
In September, you can transplant almost all perennials, blooming in spring and summer. To make it in the spring is more difficult: there is not enough time, and the beginners to grow the plants transfer the procedure of division and relocation more painfully. In addition, it is now clear how many perennials became cramped, which are not satisfied with illumination or they simply grow inappropriately.
Transplanted in September lilies, daylilies, perennial bells, dorenikum, rudbecki, ehina-tsei and others before the onset of frost will have time to take root well in a new place, safely overwinter and in the next season will enjoy abundant flowering.
If there is an opportunity, we will now prepare the sites for a spring transplant. Soil for autumn can be cleared of weeds, improved by sowing siderates, adding organic.
In September it is still possible to sow two-year-olds, propagate by cuttings grassy perennials. In cooler, wet weather, the seeds will more readily ascend, the cuttings will take root more quickly.
In the second half of the month, you already need to think about possible frosts: bite the dahlias, transplant pelargonium, petunias and other plants into the pots, which we want to preserve for the spring cuttings.
You can return the indoor plants from the garden, having thoroughly rinsed their crowns under the shower, after treating with Fitoverm.
The first frosts: saving the harvest
In our unpredictable climate, in September, the night frosts may suddenly fall. And you have not yet harvested the whole harvest in the garden? Do not rush to panic! To begin with, I advise you not to neglect the weather forecast. If you promise night frosts, do not be lazy to remove at least part of the harvest. Consider how different plants react to freezing.
Raspberry remontant. Even after a slight frost, the berries become watery, lose their taste and aroma. But do not throw them away? Of course, no: you can cook jam from such a raspberry or freeze it.
Rowan, aronia, viburnum, dogrose. These plants are not afraid of cold. Kalina only becomes sweeter (it is collected after the first frost).
Hawthorn, sea-buckthorn. The first darkens and is not stored. Seabuckthorn becomes soft - its cells burst, and the juice flows into the fruit. Quickly freeze the remaining fruits or squeeze out the juice from them.
Gresha. Harvest before the air temperature drops below + 8 degrees. Frozen pears become soft, tasteless, lose flavor. The only way out is to start for processing, cutting off the frozen parts.
Apple tree. The apples that fall under frost are not stored. Immediately prepare a compote or jam from them. And do not forget about another great option - bake charlottes.
Nikolai CHROMOV, Cand. from the sciences
© Author: Lyudmila Uleyskaya
Below other entries on the topic "Dacha and garden - with their own hands"
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- Garden care in July - questions and answers, expert advice
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- Caring for indoor flowers and house plants from A to Z
- Work in the garden, flower garden and garden beds in the second half of July!
- August - time to stock up spicy, aromatic herbs
- Calendar of care for indoor plants - seasonal work
- Peonies care calendar
- What kind of care do fruit trees need in June?
- Citrus Care at the End of Winter
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In September, cut off the mustache and damaged leaves on the strawberry.
Until the middle of the month, try to finish landing. Pre-dig the soil to a depth of 50 cm (fill 6-8 kg of humus or compost and 30 g of phosphate fertilizer at 1 sq. M.), Remove the remains of the weeds, level the surface. Heart do not fall asleep - it should be at ground level!
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In September, planting of bulbous flower crops for spring flowering starts, and for beginner gardeners it is always a disturbance and a sea of hopes for a lush bright flowering. To hope come true, let us recall a few rules of this great bulbous epic.
In advance, according to the rules for 3-4 weeks, we prepare the site. We spread 4-5 kg of humus, 100 g of complex mineral fertilizer and 50 g of wood ash at 1 m2, after which we dig the soil, while removing the roots of perennial weeds, and level the plot with rakes.
Earlier, at the very beginning of September we planted narcissuses, hazel grouses, colchicums, decorative bows, and also small-bellied - snowdrops, crocuses, muscari and others. The sequence of tulips is suitable only at the end of September, and we can plant them before the end of October.
For planting we select only healthy bulbs, mercilessly culling soft, with spots, mold. Before planting for the prevention of diseases, we process the bulbs with fungicidal preparations (according to the instructions), after which we necessarily dry it.
That there was no disagreement in the flowering of tulips, crocuses, hyacinths, we observe the rule of planting bulbs of the same size - then the flowering time and the height of the plants will be aligned.
The largest bulbs with a diameter of 9 cm are planted in the front of the garden, small bulbs and a large baby in a remote place, but always in the sun so that they will gain strength. The sun for onion bulbs is very important, in the shade even large bulbs grow smaller, and the next year may not bloom.
Well, before the magnificent flowering of tulips under the trees, which is often seen in magazine pictures, only elite bulbs are selected for such plantations, and the next year they are sent to the sunny "resort": or even thrown out (there is such a fashion - to grow tulips in a one-year culture). That is, plant tulips, hyacinths, daffodils in the penumbra are possible, but it is necessary to dig out such bulbs every year, carefully observe the temperature regime during storage, and the next year planted in more comfortable conditions.
However, most varieties of tulips can be left in one place for 4-5 years, except for lily-colored, parrot, which quickly come to naught without annual digging and drying.
Narcissus and small-bellied, on the contrary, like to be less worried, so we transplant them only when they grow.
Let's remember the rule of planting bulbous: the depth should correspond to three times the height of the bulb. On light soils, we increase this depth by 1 -2 cm, on heavy soils - we reduce it by the same amount. The distance between large bulbs 15 cm, between small bulbs 8-10, see.
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In the beginning of autumn I cook my large-leaved hydrangeas for wintering.
I stop watering.
I cut off the lower leaves so that the shoots began to be woody. Before freezing, I remove the remaining leaves, except for the apical.
I gather the shoots in a bundle, bend it to the ground, and fix it with improvised materials.
Then from two sides of the plant I put two small boards on the ribs in the shape of the letter "L" - so the bush is in a low wooden fence.
I put a bucket of peat in the center of the bush, I fall asleep on top with dry leaves and throw spunbond and film, pressing bricks along the edges.
Now I am calm: my cold hydrangeas are not terrible!