Updating raspberries - an interesting way (Hercules)
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HOW AND WHEN IS IT BETTER TO UPDATE A RASPBERRY BAR + MY REVIEWS ABOUT THE RASPBERRY VARIETY “HERCULES”
Landing renewal in case of shortage of space on the site is a long-standing problem. But it can be solved once and for all. Under one simple condition - if you do not rush.
We have a very small plot with my husband, and that one I occupied with flower gardens. Raspberries have never grown before, but then it turned out that this is the most favorite berry of our little son. After that, of course, I singled out a place for this culture in the country. Thinking, I decided to plant a repair grade Hercules: if you plant, it's so big! And my "gigantomania" gave an excellent result.
With proper care, Hercules gives two crops a year: the first - in June, the second - in September-October. At the same time, the weight of the berries reaches 8-10 g, and most importantly - they are very sweet and are not affected by gray rot. The trick to care is this: it is necessary that by the middle of summer new powerful stems grow near the bushes, for which organic fertilizers need to be applied one and a half to two times more than usual. The second crop is produced by annual shoots that bloom in August, which means that in late autumn all branches should be cut, leaving 2-3 cm stumps. To keep our raspberries always large, I thoroughly clean the aisle from young shoots, dig the soil in the fall, and then I bring in humus.
At the first frosts for the future harvest, I water my raspberry well and feed the bushes three times a season: as soon as the snow comes off (complex fertilizer, ie, granules of nitrosfos), during flowering and after harvest (superphosphate and potassium sulphate).
All this is wonderful, but it turned out that the bushes well fructify in one place only for five to seven years, and then grow old and stop pleasing the berries. So the question arose: where can I transfer my raspberry? Places are not enough! She began to think and as a result came up with an interesting way to update the raspberries.
It is not necessary to search each time for a new site under it: it is enough just to gradually transfer bushes one after another.
Usually, for the third year after planting, new shoots grow not only on the old rhizome, but also near the bush by autumn. Once the last crop is harvested, the old rhizome can be removed and properly digged up this place. The next year will bear fruit young shoots, which grew apart from the old ones. And in a couple of years and from these bushes in the same way you must leave only young shoots at some distance from the previous ones. And so for several years a row of raspberries will naturally move to 50-80 cm, which is quite enough to update the whole raspberry.
See also: Harvest raspberry or raspberry in science
Only last year's shoots will bear fruit, but each time on fresh earth. What is most interesting - then you can start to leave young shoots in the opposite direction from the previous rhizome, and the raspberry will slowly move to its original place. This method saves space (just for our tiny site), and at the same time the yield of plantings is not lost.
And now I’ll tell you a joke. As soon as we planted raspberries in our house, raspberries from our neighbors began to climb over from behind a blank fence, making our way even where all the rubbish (pipes, pieces of iron and other rubbish) lies.
So we have a new variety. It seems that all have the same plots and the sun is the same for all, but maybe our energy is better? We do not mind - please, gentlemen, berry bushes, everything is to us!
© Author: Aina TYUBROBOLSKAYA. Central Chernozem Region
Add to Wishlist: Giant Yellow Circulation
Repaired raspberry variety Yellow giant grows at me on a site some years, and I am very happy with it. It is frosty, harvested, rarely infested by pests, does not spread over the site. I chose the most sunny place for raspberries, where snow comes early in the spring, the soil warms up faster, there is no stagnation of water.
I dug a trench with a depth on the bayonet of a shovel, placing it from north to south - this is for irrigation and top dressing so that the liquid does not spread on the sides, but flows directly to the roots. Introduced urea, superphosphate and potassium. Planted bushes 70 cm from each other. Over the summer, they grew up and in the fall pleased me with the first berries, which struck me with their size.
Now about caring for my beauty. As soon as the snow comes down in the spring, I spray it with a Bordeaux mixture, and after the appearance of the leaves I treat the planting from pests with any purchased drug. The soil under the bushes is necessarily mulched with grass, with sawdust, and on the perimeter of planting I dig in kitchen remnants and manure, because raspberry loves fat fertile soil. I water often, not allowing the soil to dry out.
See also: Raspberry in spring - care and pest control in raspberry
Over the summer several times I feed raspberries with infusion of fermented grass and mullein. And already in June we are enjoying its delicious berries that ripen on last year's shoots (I, by the way, do not cut them out for winter, except for very weak and thin ones). And only after they have fertilized, I cut them at the ground level and burn them. But the harvest on the shoots of this year ripens in August.
It, certainly, not such big, as at early gathering, but berries are larger and more pure. After harvesting this crop, I cut off the top of the raspberry at an altitude of about 1,5 m, so that in the spring from the sinuses there are numerous branches-pads, which greatly increases the yield. And everything repeats itself.
© Author: Elena A. RACHEEVA Volgograd
RASPBERRY UPDATE – TIPS AND REVIEWS ABOUT METHODS
FOREST RASPBERRY UPDATE
Every gardener dreams of consistent results. But what if At first, raspberries please with an excellent harvest, but after a few years the fruiting decreases? How not to be left without delicious sweet berries?
I want to write an enthusiastic ode to the nameless raspberry that I inherited from the previous owners of the house and its renovation. It grew in a separate clearing at the edge of the garden, in the scattered shade of old apple trees. No one planted it in neat rows, no one fed it with anything, no one removed leaf litter under it or covered it. Only in the spring did they cut out dry and fruit-bearing branches and shorten the main growth.
And at the beginning of June the harvest marathon began. Early, large - the size of a finger, with the aroma of wild berries, unusually sweet. It went out with a bang when it was fresh, and the compotes and jam made from it simply amazed with its aroma and taste!
For many years we invited friends for a treat, because it was simply impossible to collect such a harvest ourselves. And now, after seven years, my raspberries began to shrink. By this time, varietal remontant raspberries of orange and wine-red color appeared on the site. It’s also tasty and sweet, but it’s far from the aroma of my favorite.
Two more years passed, and this season there was even nothing to collect. The summer was damp and cold, there was almost no berry harvest. And the raspberries grew small, like peas, and watery. It was clear that the time had come to save the plantation, and in August my daughter and I got down to business.
We spent the entire season choosing a location and eventually arranged the raspberries in rows, creating raspberry alleys in different places on the site.
The soil in the rows was mixed all summer with finely chopped grass from a lawn mower - fortunately, the wet season allowed us to mow the grass almost once a week. A solution of a preparation enriched with microorganisms was spilled over the grass.
Before planting, I trimmed the “disposable” raspberries - I completely removed all last year’s branches, and dragged the remontant one to a new place with a lump of earth. Rain regularly watered my settlers, and warm and sunny weather in September allowed me to harvest a small harvest of large berries.
The photo shows yellow remontant raspberries at the end of October. I took a photo against the backdrop of fading sedum to make it clear what time of year it was.
All the bushes began to grow and began to grow vigorously. I hope that the rest of the raspberries will produce a good harvest next season. I put all the plant residues into the planting beds, covering them with soil and spilling them with the EM preparation. In October, I sprinkled complex fertilizer for autumn under the bushes;
I believe that my problems are related to the depletion of land in certain areas. Therefore, I considered feeding the seedlings more than advisable. Whether I'm right or wrong, the next season will show.
© Author: Svetlana Nikolaevna
HOW TO UPDATE RASPBERRY - VIDEO
Below other entries on the topic "Dacha and garden - with their own hands"
- Raspberries on Sobolev - questions and answers on the method of cultivation
- How to extend the fruiting of raspberries - an interesting way
- Reproduction of raspberries "nettles" + care (Tambov region)
- Where to plant a raspberry?
- Cumberland cultivation, feeding and care (Belgorod region)
- Repair raspberries in the Yaroslavl region - planting, varieties and care
- How I Doubled My Raspberry Yield With Homemade Feeding
- Two crops of patch raspberry for the season and "raspberry" recipes
- Repair raspberries - Polana varieties: my reviews
- Growing raspberries - planting care and reproduction
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Step by step update of the raspberry
Summer raspberry bushes bear fruit well in one place for 5-7 years, and then the berries become smaller, the yield decreases. You can, of course, transplant the raspberry tree to a new place. But we have a small area. I was advised another way. Raspberries grow new shoots next to the old rhizome by autumn. After collecting the last berries, you need to remove the old bush, do not touch the shoots and thoroughly dig up the vacant place. So I did, and I also brought in wood ash for digging (0,5 liters per 1 square meter). In the next season, young shoots were already bearing fruit. And after another 2-3 years, and from these bushes in the same way, he left only new shoots that grew away from the three-year-old rhizomes, which he dug.
So, in 5 years, a row of raspberries "stepped over" almost 1 m from the fence to the garden path - this is enough for the raspberry tree to be completely renewed. Now I plan to "move" the raspberries back to the fence, leaving the young growth from the old bushes in the opposite direction from the path.
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Is it possible to plant cherries on a site where raspberries grew for a long time (plants were sick)?
Or is it better to place raspberry bushes there again?
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- After uprooting the old raspberry, be sure to dig the soil there to free the site from rhizomes that can sprout next year. Still plant new raspberry seedlings elsewhere. Contaminated soil, as well as plant debris, roots and parts of diseased plants remaining in the soil can be a source of diseases (including viral ones that are incurable). The only option to deal with them is prevention (first of all, compliance with crop rotation).
Planting cherries instead of raspberries is also not worth it, because raspberries have depleted the ground.
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For the second year, there are a lot of ovaries on raspberries of the Heracles variety, but the berries grow scanty, redden and dry. Fading and shoots. Why is that? From lack of water?
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- If your region often has protracted dry periods, it is possible that the raspberry tree suffers from a moisture deficit. However, the problem may be more serious: the symptoms you described are similar to signs of root rot disease (most likely, fusarium wilt).
Shoots affected by this fungal disease will fade, turn brown, shorten, look oppressed, or completely die. The disease is not treated. To some extent, the development of the problem can be restrained by treatments - for example, Fitosporin-M, Alirin-B, Spo-robacterin (according to the instructions). But it is better to uproot sick bushes and burn. For the future: use only healthy planting material for planting. Do not plant raspberries next to plants that accumulate bacteria of this species (potatoes, strawberries, tomatoes). Promptly treat raspberries for diseases and pests, immediately cut out all diseased, damaged, dried shoots.
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To repair the raspberry as early as possible gave the first harvest, for it in the spring should be well pouhazhivat. When the snow has almost come down, we must scrap its remains from the roots of plants, remove the insulation from the soil, laid out in the fall, and cover the soil with a black film. Then the earth will warm up more quickly, and you'll get the berries a little earlier than usual.