Weed and pest control in the fall - so that they are not in the spring
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Autumn pest and weed control
So that in the coming year pests do not attempt your crop, you need to take care of the site now. In addition, the correct autumn care for the garden helps, if not completely get rid of the weeds, then certainly significantly reduce their number.
Herbal infusions from wireworms
Larvae clickies (they also call wireworms) like to eat root vegetables. And to win from insects crop of potatoes, carrots and beets can be difficult. In order not to let these pests enter your garden, it is important to follow simple rules.
- Strictly observe the crop rotation and return the culture to its original place no earlier than in 3 years.
- Do not be lazy after releasing the beds to sow the siderates: phacelia, lupine or mustard.
- Monitor the condition of the soil and, if necessary, reduce its acidity (for example, lime in the fall, chalk).
- If in the current season the wireworms still chose your site, then to the described measures, you can add several other effective ways to combat these insects.
- Put small pieces of potatoes in small jars, bury them in the ground, mark the areas with traps with chopsticks. After 2-3 of the day, scoop out the containers, destroy them, put in fresh potatoes and bury them again.
- 0,5 kg freshly ground nettle herbs pour 10 l of cold water, insist 2 a day, abundantly spill the damaged areas. Repeat the procedure 2-3 times at intervals of 7 days.
- Instead of nettle, you can prepare infusions of fresh chopped herb celandine (100 g raw material per 10 l water, insist 3 a day) or dandelion (200 g raw material per bucket of water, insist 2 a day).
Prevention of phytophthora
I note that there is no way to completely destroy spores of phytophthora. However, if you try, you can suppress the development of the disease and prolong the life of plants.
In autumn, collect all the wastes of Solanaceae that were sick (tomatoes, eggplant, potatoes), and burn them outside the plot.
Soil dig deep and treat with Phytosporin (according to instructions) or 3% solution of Bordeaux liquid.
Be sure to observe a crop rotation.
See also: How to deal with the bear and WIN
Fighting against the best bears better together
At once I will say that it will not be possible to exterminate these insatiable pests without the help of neighbors, and it will take two, or even three, years to complete this process.
In the autumn dig out on your and adjacent sites trap pits the size of 50x50x50 cm, cover them with old film and fill with horse manure. On top, sprinkle with earth and mark with a stick. When frosty weather sets in, dig up the contents of the pits and scatter them on the surface of the soil. Fallen into the anabiosis of the bear, who climbed into the trap in the winter, will die from the cold.
Also, bury half a liter bottles with a wide throat in the holes at an angle of 45 degrees, pour into each of 100 ml of beer, under the neck, place a veneer or a piece of linoleum so that it is in a small hole at 5-6 cm below ground level. Cover the opaque material with light, cover the edges with soil. To get out on a smooth wall to the youngsters is beyond the power. Periodically check the traps - hit pests get hooked and destroy.
We will do without weeding
To save time on the spring weeding of the garden, immediately after harvesting all the plant residues, loosen the beds to a depth of 4-5. See this for 2-3 weeks before the beginning of a steady cooling. The seeds of weeds will have time to germinate, and with the first frosts the sprouts will die.
See also: Weed control - ways and means
FAQ
In recent years, Colorado beetles completely overpowered the site. Can I do something in the fall so that next year there would be less pests?
Leonid Yarmolenko
Colorado beetles for hibernation climb into the soil to a depth of 20-40 cm. If the soil is light, they can dig deeper and deeper, and if the earth is heavy - stay closer to the surface. In severe winters, up to 90% of pests may die, although recently, according to statistics, only 19% of these insects perish.
To Colorado did not survive the winter, in autumn, shortly before frosts, plowing plowing with a skimmer to the depth of the arable layer. It is even better to plow the garden layer by layer, gradually increasing the depth, in the process of introducing a comprehensive mineral fertilizer according to the instructions.
I do not advise you to bring the compost to the site not completely up to the end. There may be larvae of pests that, under favorable conditions, will threaten your crop.
Next year, try to collect the Colorado beetles before they can lay eggs. If there is no time for this laborious work, spray the plants with insecticides according to the instructions. Suitable Bitoksibatsillin, Anthony, Fitoverm.
Matvey NECHUNAEV, Cand. of sciences
Autumn: chasing bugs and spiders
The key to a rich harvest is healthy plants that are not affected by diseases and pests. Large-scale farms are fighting chemical disasters, but more environmentally friendly methods can be dispensed with at their site.
We are eliminating it right. The fight against diseases and pests in the fall begins with a general cleaning. Dig a hole at the edge of the plot. All the offending plants that were sick this year (stalks and cabbage leaves, tomato and potato tops), immerse in a hole and fill it with earth. In 3 of the year, plant debris will completely decay and turn into safe compost.
The greenhouse has its own rules
To drive away diseases and annoying insects from the greenhouse, you have to try. After getting rid of all plant debris, remove the topsoil (enough 5 cm). Mix the earth from healthy beds in half with high-quality humus and send to the greenhouse.
Wash the covering material of the greenhouse from the inside and outside with a solution of laundry or green soap (I do not recommend using detergent and dishwashing detergent).
You can use bleach solution: 400 g of lime dilute in 10 l of water and, periodically mixing, insist 4-5 hours. Drain the liquid. Spray the structure with it from the inside, spill the soil on the beds, thickly coat the wooden parts of the greenhouse.
Close the windows and doors of the structure tightly. In the center, install a sulfur or tobacco checker. Set it on fire. Leave until completely faded. After that, do not go into the greenhouse 2-3 of the day. Smoke from checkers will destroy most pests that have settled for wintering.
Olga ONISHCHENKO, Cand. agricultural sciences.
Ash in Colorado
I try to have time to dig the land on the site where the potatoes grew twice during the fall. The first time is after the harvest, and the second after the first frosts. After each digging, sprinkle abundantly with wood ash. This reduces acidity, and destroys the larvae of the Colorado potato beetle, which climbed into the soil for wintering. I noticed that in recent years these striped insects on my potato have become much less.
Claudia SHUPIKOVA
© Author: Ioannina GORBATENKO, agronomist-chemist
Below other entries on the topic "Dacha and garden - with their own hands"
- Rapeseed sawfly (photo) and fighting with it
- Brown spots on currant leaves - how to treat?
- Carrot pests and control
- "Blue spraying" with Bordeaux liquid of the garden in early spring - why is it important?
- How to cope with powdery mildew (preparations) and what are hyphae?
- Does calendula help against the Colorado potato beetle - my reviews
- Diseases and pests of bulbs of dahlias gladiolus and cannabis
- What is sick with onions and winter garlic - a photo, name, description and drugs for treatment
- Spring treatments-spraying the garden from pests - how, when and with what? Part 2
- Dangerous diseases of cherries - photo, name and description from the agronomist
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Before the beginning of flowering from flying pests I hang in the crown of each tree on 2-3 traps with a liquid bait.
For this purpose, plastic bottles, cut to half, to which I fasten the wire, as well as pails from mayonnaise or ice cream, are well suited. As a bait I use some sweetish aromatic liquid. For example, such: in 1 l of water I add 1 st. A spoonful of sugar, old honey or jam; I use sour compote or juice, half diluted in water; 100 ml of apple cider vinegar diluted in 3 l of water; a handful of breadcrumbs pour 3 l of water with the addition of 1 st. spoons of sugar, I give ferment 3 days, then dilute kvass in half with water; peel one banana I pour 2 l of water and I insist 3 days.
The contents of the traps are filtered once a week to remove a large number of pests. In this liquid I add fresh kvass and again I hang it to the branches.
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Every spring I buy 20 broiler chickens, and a little later another 20 ducklings. And also in my area rabbits are constantly living in cages - a male and two females, in the spring the females bring offspring. Feed is a little expensive, so I add grass from the garden to the feed. I conditionally divide all grass into three groups.
The first group of
Poisonous and inedible herbs: celandine, nightshade, buttercup, prickly thorn, and so on. I throw them into the compost pile or burn them, and clean the celandine and nightshade soaked in a barrel and treat them with shrubs and plantings from pests.
The second group
Conditionally edible grass: mokritsa, mugs, sot, bojak, milkman, galinsoga (American), edible grass from beds. All this, as well as plant waste from cultivated plants (leaves or leaves), I give to the birds, and they eat well. By the autumn I am not only with the harvest of vegetables and fruits, but also with meat, manure for fertilizing the garden.
The third group
Edible grass: wheatgrass, quinoa, plantain, wormwood, alfalfa, clover, bindweed, dandelion, horse sorrel, etc. I "grow" them in row-spacing, and when they grow up to 20-30 cm, I am pruning, chopping roots, slightly drying and I feed rabbits. If there are a lot of grass, dry it on the roof of the barn.
Nettle I during the whole summer tear, finely cut, to sense before the appearance of juice and add to the feed for birds.
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How do I freeze the weeds
To easily get rid of weeds, in winter I sprinkle snow with wood ash abundantly. I cover the old I with a film and press the bricks.
At the end of winter, as soon as the sun warms up, the black snow under the film melts quickly, and immediately the grass grows. As soon as I see the greenery, I remove the shelter. But it's still cold outside! And the weed safely. And I again cover this area with a film, so that the grass blades have penetrated, which hid deeper and did not manage to germinate the last time. I repeat the procedure with freezing.
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Wild grasses, weeds grown in the garden, can be used to protect against pests.
Take, for example, wormwood. It is good at combating the moth. To do this, you need 2 kg of ground wormwood to fill with water, insist 2 days, then bring to a boil and cook 30 min. Cool and dilute halfway with water. Infusion strain and spray the affected fruit mulch plants 2 times, with an interval of 6 days.
The roots of a dandelion are effective against a badger and aphid. Dug roots, rinse, cut (should get 300 g), add 400 g of crushed dandelion leaves and pour everything with hot water (10 L). Insist under the lid. After a day, sprinkle with the infusion of the plant.
Thus, using wild plants, it is possible to avoid chemical treatments in the garden, to save many useful insect pollinators and to protect themselves from exposure to harmful substances contained in finished preparations.
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In our garden, from time to time, a malicious weed - dodder appears. She especially likes to settle in beet beds. As it grows, the dodger clings to the plant with its suction cups-haustoriums and begins to pull nutrients from it. The host plant first lags behind in growth, and then, if nothing is done, it can die at all.
Dodder has a great ability to regenerate (restore). Even small detached processes, abandoned in the garden, when in contact with the plant quickly cling to it and begin to parasitize.
If we find this weed in the garden, we tear out the infected plant, carefully collect all the particles of dodder, take it out of the plot, dry it and burn it.
It must be remembered that this tenacious plant has seeds that are very small like dust, which retain their germination for many years. Therefore, it is necessary to destroy the forest before flowering; if you are late, make a bonfire at the site of detection of the weed. Once a week, you should inspect infected areas, destroy seedlings and sprouts of weed.