8 Review (s)

  1. Anna Sergeeva

    November is already in the yard, and the leaves have not flown around my apple trees.

    I worry: because it is not normal? Why did this happen? And how does this threaten the trees?

    Reply
    • OOO "Sad"

      - You worry not in vain! Trees prepared for cold weather go into the winter without leaves. In your case, the apple trees are far from resting. Why? Often, we ourselves create the wrong conditions when, after 10-15 July, we bring humus or other organic matter into tree trunks, and even worse - complex mineral fertilizer. As a result, plants receive nitrogen and begin to grow, rather than budding. Illiterate and unlimited summer pruning can also increase the growth of new shoots. And even early watering irrigation (when there are still green leaves on the trees) after a dry summer will slow down the preparation of plants for cold weather. As a result, trees enter the winter weakened, with underexposed ends of the shoots.
      What should be done
      Of course, even before the frost, it was necessary to spray the trees with a solution of urea (500-700 g per 10 l of water), but now it is too late. If possible, remove the leaves and the remaining fruits. Insulate the tree trunks with peat, compost, rotted manure, and earth. Be sure to whitewash the trunks and bases of the skeletal branches, and for young trees, wrap the strands with spanbond, hessian.
      Natalia DORONINA, teacher of the school of gardeners

      Reply
  2. Victor Kolosovsky

    About three years ago a crack appeared on the trunk of the apple tree, which grew and dried up. Cleared it, disinfected it, it did not help. One experienced gardener suggested the following recipe: mix half a bucket of clay and manure, 100 g of copper sulfate and a handful of ashes.

    The resulting composition smeared the wound on the cortex and bandaged it. A couple of months, he took off the bandage.
    Compress helped - the wound began to drag out. Since then the apple tree has been fruitful for several years.

    Reply
  3. Yana Rassadnikova

    I was late with the digging out of the assembly and sending the bulbs for winter storage. Can I still leave this plant in a flower garden and try to somehow save it from freezing?

    Reply
    • OOO "Sad"

      - The climate has changed in recent years towards warming. And in the southern regions of Belarus, some florists are already left to winter the montage in the open ground. Hurry to arrange a dry shelter for the flower: first fill the landing with a thick layer (at least 20 cm) of dry leaves, sawdust or peat, and cover with a roofing felt and snowmaking lapnik on top. In spring, remove the shelter as early as possible, weak frosts, the montbretia is not afraid. So does one of my acquaintances collectors bulbous, living in Grodno. Experience is quite successful!
      Wintering grounds in the ground sprout faster, bloom for a week or two before planting the 2nd spring.
      But in the northeastern regions, the climate for montbreting is severe, the probability of frostbite is high, so we store the bulb nests together with a small amount of soil in the basement, at a temperature of + 4-8 degrees, in wooden boxes, pouring dry sawdust or moss sphagnum. With prolonged storage in the house, the bulbs can dry out, but in the spring they can not germinate. In any case, they should be periodically inspected, with signs of drying (become wrinkled), planted in pots to grow.
      Ivan Morozov

      Reply
  4. Oksana Pavlovna Skorokhod, Saratov Region

    Do you need to dig out the corms for the winter?

    Reply
    • OOO "Sad"

      Better leave them to winter in the open ground. Cover for the winter with a layer of sawdust (10-15 cm). In the spring you will get amicable shoots, in the summer abundant flowering. Applying this method, montbretions in one place can be grown 5-8 years.
      In the cellars (and other cold rooms), corms of montbrets are poorly stored dry or rot, and when planted in the open ground they do not have time to bloom before the autumn cold.

      Reply
  5. Roman KULISH, Krasnodar Territory

    From time to time I update my garden - I clean up old ones and plant new trees. Of course, the first winter is the most difficult for “young growth”. Therefore, I always warm them, even despite our seemingly mild winters.

    First of all, I mulch the tree trunks with a thick layer of peat or humus. And to cover the boles I use a heater for pipes. I cut it along and put it on the trunks of young trees. On top of the heater I wind up the burlap and gently pull it with twine. In such a fur coat to the trees, no frost is terrible!

    Reply

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