Preparation of a garden, a summer house, a flower garden and a kitchen garden for the winter with own hands - from A to Z
Contents ✓
- ✓ CLOSE HOLIDAY SEASON
- ✓ WORK PLAN IN THE HOLIDAY HOUSE:
- ✓ WORK IN THE GARDEN
- ✓ PREPARATION FOR WINTER TREES AND BUSHES:
- ✓ PREPARATION OF THE VINEYARD TO WINTER
- ✓ PREPARATION OF THE FLOWER TO WINTER
- ✓ WORKS IN GARDEN
- ✓ PREPARING FOR WINTER - OPINION TIPS AND REVIEWS
- ✓ Preparing a Garden for Winter: Xnumx Important
We close the summer season and prepare a summer house, a garden and a vegetable garden for the winter
CLOSE HOLIDAY SEASON
It's not far off the cold season.
And all of us are more or less puzzled with the questions: how to prepare a dacha or homestead for winter, protect fruit, berry and ornamental plants from frosts, what works to perform on empty beds, in order to again harvest a rich harvest and admire healthy garden and garden crops?
Of course, each site requires an individual approach. However, there are general rules that need to be adhered to, so that next year you can enjoy the fruits of your labor. These are the recommendations we have collected for you in this issue of the magazine.
Be ready to do all the work in one day, you probably will not be able, but the more laborious your work is today, the more likely that your site will safely survive the long winter.
For some, the site is a resting place, but for many of us it is primarily the breadwinner. He needs our care not only in spring and summer, but also in autumn, since preparation for cold and frost in our climate is simply necessary. If you are not too lazy and draw a line under the summer season correctly, in the spring you will not have to regret the mistakes made in the fall.
In protection from cold weather and caring care on the eve of winter, flower beds, fruit trees, and berry bushes are in need. Do not forget about the elements of landscaping and landscaping, irrigation and lighting systems and much more.
In recent years, winters scare us not only with cold weather, but also with their unpredictability. It is she who poses a serious threat to plants. Long snowless days with severe frosts give way to heavy snowfalls and blizzards. They are replaced by thaws with rains - and again frosts. And so several times a season. As a result, garden plants suffer from severe frosts, and from sudden changes in temperature, and from high humidity, and from icy winter winds, and from sunburns ... Leaving the garden without proper care in the fall, a significant part of its “inhabitants” can be missed in the spring .
After harvesting, the main works on the site can be conditionally divided into several parts:
- in an apartment building and outbuildings;
- garden;
- in the flower beds and on the lawn;
- in the garden;
- in hotbeds and greenhouses;
- harvesting of garden tools;
- preparation for the winter of the improvement and reservoirs.
Let us dwell on each of this in more detail.
Make up a front for yourself to prepare the site for the winter and determine their sequence - so as not to miss or forget something important.
Our goal is not only to protect the country house from adverse environmental factors that can adversely affect its preservation, but also to protect property from those who like to profit from someone else's expense.
First of all, do not leave in a prominent place things and objects that may be of any value to the attackers.
As supports for tomatoes, cucumbers and other garden plants, we often use metal posts, reinforcement, steel corners and pipes. At the end of the summer season, they must be taken out of the ground and, putting in order, placed
for storage in rooms with doors and strong locks. In the same way, we must deal with the tool that is used to work in the garden and the vegetable garden (axes, shovels, choppers, rakes, saws), as well as with unused building materials.
If you say goodbye to the site for a long time, it is advisable to disassemble and disassemble sanitary devices (watering cans, mixers, sprinklers) and lighting devices (lamps, garden lamps) for storage in a house or a barn, as well as other devices necessary for the farm.
When choosing locks for a country house and outbuildings, give preference to mortise models - as more resistant to breaking. Robbers cope with padlocks very easily: they simply tear them together with hinges.
Do not leave valuables in the country - take them home. If you couldn’t do this for any reason, equip a cache where it’s not so easy to climb, or meet someone from the locals who won’t refuse to keep your belongings.
Take effective measures to strengthen the cottages. Firstly, all doors must be securely locked with strong locks, the keys of which should not be stored in a place accessible to thieves - as they say, "under the rug."
Secondly, without fail, install the grilles on the windows. And do it better from the inside, so that they do not attract attention to themselves.
Of course, it is best to establish a modern security system in the country, with the withdrawal to the control panel in the law enforcement agencies and the mobile phone of the owners, but this event will require additional costs. Alternatively, you can ask to look after your dacha neighbors who live there all year round. A small present in the form of gratitude will cost several times cheaper than the fate of being robbed. If possible, try periodically to visit the dacha even in winter.
If you agree with neighbors on the site and come to dachas in turn, it will not be so expensive, and visits will be more frequent.
Experienced summer residents also recommend that you arrange insurance for the dacha itself and for all property.
Do not place traps on the site, do not leave poisoned vodka and do not build dangerous traps. In the case of causing harm to the attacker, for this you will have to strictly answer in accordance with the law.
Leaving the cottage, disconnect it. To do this, simply unscrew the plugs or turn off the power supply on the switchboard.
WORK PLAN IN THE HOLIDAY HOUSE:
- put in order, do a wet cleaning;
- wash linens, towels, clothes, bedspreads and other textiles;
- funds in the wardrobe with clean clothes from moths (especially if there are stored woolen things);
- Wash dishes and put them in boxes (if there is a possibility of penetration of mice);
- cover with a film or cloth furniture;
- turn off electrical appliances, wrap them in film from moisture and dust, or take them away for the winter;
- products of long-term storage (macaroni, cereals) pour into jars with tight lids and hide;
- to spread sprigs of dry wormwood or elderberry in the house - rodents do not like their smell.
If the house has running water, do not forget to drain the water from all the pipes, otherwise at subzero temperatures they can burst. This rule applies to heating systems using water as a coolant.
It is worth paying attention to the closed containers, which contain liquids. They are either placed in a warm cellar or released from the contents for a while.
If even in the cold season you plan to visit your country estates from time to time, you will have to take care of the availability of water in advance, since with the end of the summer season the central water supply system of suburban areas is usually turned off.
To liquid in containers placed in unheated rooms or on the street, did not freeze, you can use some tricks:
- place in a barrel or tank a piece of logs or a thick branch;
- “Flood” interconnected plastic bottles, one of which must be covered with sand or pebbles, and the other left empty;
- use special chemical additives.
It is not recommended to leave gas bottles at the dacha.
Do not leave in the house cereals and other edible supplies, which can serve as food for rodents. In winter hungry time, mice are actively attacking holiday villages, so the presence of something edible will serve as an excuse for them to catch your house.
If the cottage is closed until the spring, do not place mousetraps in it and do not spread the poison from the rodents, since the smell of dead pests will permeate the whole house for many months and it will be very difficult to get rid of it.
By the way, rodents (and also wild animals) in winter are harmful to the whole country economy. Mice, moving easily under a layer of loose snow, eat bark of trees and shrubs. And hares that have wandered to the site with pleasure are tidbits with young branches. To protect the landing from uninvited guests will help, including special chemical repellents.
At the end of the summer season, you need to take care of gardening equipment and the rest of the inventory in advance. If you do not tidy the metal parts of garden tools, they can become rusty over the winter. In this case, putting them in order in the spring will have to spend quite a lot of time, which in the spring months is simply worth its weight in gold. All working equipment must be collected in one specially designated and equipped place. With the help of special devices, tools are cleaned of the earth and plant debris, and then they are hung and placed in places, in no case leaving them lying on the floor. Metal parts are lubricated with engine oil.
A thorough audit is necessary. If the working equipment needs repair, it is better to do this work right now - so as not to lose time in the spring. If the tool is completely out of order, it can be replaced during the winter.
If there was not enough time to prepare a cellar in the summer, it would also be necessary to prepare a vegetable store for a new batch of harvest in the fall. The entire room is thoroughly cleaned of debris, and then, after opening the windows and doors, air for several days. After that, the floor, walls and ceiling, as well as racks and boxes are treated with antiseptic compounds.
In the case when it is supposed to use a summer cottage throughout the year, it will be necessary to take care of its warming. If the work is done qualitatively, in the future this issue can not be returned. At the same thermal insulation will significantly reduce the cost of paying for heating services or buying fuel.
If the house has a heating stove, it is necessary to clean the chimney, otherwise its use can be not only ineffective, but also dangerous. You will also have to take care of having enough fuel. The simplest and most common option is logging. Dry wood needs to be cut in advance into logs of a suitable length, chopped into several pieces and put in a barn or pantry.
If in the summer cottage after the end of the summer season the electricity is turned off, renting a diesel generator will be a good solution. This device will ensure the smooth operation of all necessary equipment, including lighting.
When preparing for winter, do not forget about objects of decor, sculptures and ceramics. Do not like snow arbors, pergolas and decorative products made of wood. With the onset of cold weather, sculptures should be covered with a film, a dense waterproof cloth or a protective box made of wood or plywood above them. Wooden structures preferably impregnated with antiseptic and protective varnish.
WORK IN THE GARDEN
Winter sleep for garden plants is a completely natural state. Most of them tolerate cold well, and sometimes the inhabitants of the garden need the simplest shelter, for example, in the form of a layer of dry foliage or mulch above the location of the roots. More serious protection requires, as a rule, exotic plants and young plantings for our climate.
However, in recent years, the weather often presents both plants and dacha residents with surprises. Unexpected temperature changes, snowless weeks with severe frosts, wind and icy rain can significantly damage trees and shrubs.
See also: Proper preparation of the garden for winter
That is why a reliable wintering of garden plants should be taken care of in advance - before the real frosts hit. The main thing for the gardener in this period is to decide on the seedlings, prepare the cuttings for the spring grafting of plants, mulch and cover the plants for the winter.
First of all, you need to make an audit of all trees and shrubs on the site and analyze their condition. Under the influence of the weather and the severity of the ripened fruits, some of them could break. Do not leave such flaws unattended. Autumn pruning - more gentle than spring - is sanitary and affects not only fruit trees, but also shrubs and ornamental crops. Damaged, old, dry and diseased branches, as well as branches with dried leaves and extra shoots are subject to removal. They are usually cut into a ring, and the slices are carefully cleaned with a sharp knife and covered with garden varnish. The fork in the branches can be cleaned with rags dipped in a solution of copper sulfate.
Old apple and plum deserve special attention. All the thickened and old branches in the trees are removed, and the sections are processed. By the same principle, pruning of ornamental trees is carried out. Cherry, plum, as well as other trees and shrubs that give root shoots, it is necessary to get rid of it. And to cut it it is necessary not level with the ground, and at the very basis. Young trees and bushes in the fall, as a rule, do not crop.
If you do not know how to choose a secateur, it is better to look for relevant information in advance, because there are many such tools. It will not be superfluous to advise a seller-consultant or a more experienced neighbor.
First of all, dead and broken branches, as well as those that began to grow inside the crown, are removed from the trees. After that, the whole tree is examined for the presence of old lichens and moss - they also need to be removed.
PREPARATION FOR WINTER TREES AND BUSHES:
- cut off all dry, sick and ceased fructifying branches. Sections on the trees are covered with garden gauze;
- old bushes and trees cut down and uprooted. Carefully choose from the ground all the roots and dig through the soil. We disinfect the soil with 3% solution of copper sulfate. If necessary, prepare landing holes for new trees in advance;
- We remove old, dried up and mummified fruits and berries from trees and shrubs, do not forget about the nests of pests. Spray the plants with 3% solution of copper sulfate;
- we spend a whitewash of trunks of trees;
- we tie the trunks with a dense cloth, ruberoid, or surround them with fir spruce branches - to protect against rodents;
- bend to the ground shoots of berry bushes - to prevent freezing. The soil under the bushes should be clean, without weeds;
- collect the fallen leaves (burn them or put them in a compost pit).
Carry out a planned pruning after the leaf fall. It is best suited for this clear sunny weather, be sure before the onset of cold weather.
In autumn, trunks of young trees are wrapped with a “belt” of roofing felt or roofing felt - this will protect them from rodents. At the same time, I deepen the lower part of the belt into the ground by 10 centimeters. Between the roofing material and the tree trunk I place a burlap, and the belt itself is white. Thanks to these activities, in February-March, the tree bark will not receive thermal burns. I do not write off the "grandfather" way: I wind the trunks with nylon tights. Firstly, such “treats” will not be bitten by mice, and secondly, the bark under tights will not stop. To protect against hares, I tie young trees with coniferous spruce branches, directing it with the needles down, starting from the ground itself.
Vitaly SALKEVICH, city of Grodno
Carefully inspect the berry bushes. Raspberries, currants, gooseberries and blackberries are better tolerated by autumn pruning than spring. Therefore, thickened and thin branches of gooseberries, black currants and blackberries are thin, and lateral shorten on 5-6, see Shoots roots of plants are cut out, broken and diseased processes are removed.
Raspberries are left with all the fruiting branches with a height of no more than 70 cm, the rest is cut off. Full cut is subject to diseased and delicate processes: both inside the plant and at its edges.
Currants and gooseberries have old branches cut to the root (without hemp). They are quite easy to distinguish from young ones in dark, almost black color and lignification. In the same way remove the harvested blackberry branches.
Autumn is the most suitable time for the removal of processes from currants. To do this, the large extreme branches of the bush are bent to the ground, where shallow holes must first be dug. Part of the branches are laid in them and sprinkled with earth, and the upper part is freed. So that the branches lay tight in the pits, they are strengthened with special wooden or metal brackets. With the onset of spring, rooted branches are carefully dug up, separated from the main trunk, and transplanted for independent formation of a new currant bush.
Escape raspberries for the winter is best to untie the tapestry and pinned to the ground. In the same way you can do with the blackberry. In this position they are easier to winter and will retain a greater number of fetal kidneys. Black currant and gooseberry experienced gardeners are advised to bite the soil layer 10-12, see A young bushes and trees are better tied, so that they are not destroyed by snow.
See also: Preparing fruit trees for winter
After that comes the time to start "general cleaning" in the garden, carefully removing the fallen leaves from the tree trunks, from under bushes and ornamental plants, from the lawn. By the way, not all gardeners remove foliage from the site on the eve of winter, using it as an additional insulation for the roots of trees and shrubs.
However, experts recommend not taking risks, because fallen leaves are the enemy of lawn cover. And in it (even under the snow!) Pathogenic bacteria and even insects are perfectly preserved and multiply, which pose a direct threat to the plants on the site. Therefore, fallen leaves are best burned. The same fate should be comprehended by cut branches, blackened, half-rotten and mummified fruits. If this is not possible, the foliage can be buried in the ground. Only it needs to be done away from the plantings.
The soil near the berry bushes can be covered with pine bark or humus. The layer of mulch should be at least 10 cm.
It is necessary to remove the foliage, if in this season fruit trees have recovered, for example, scab.
After the termination of vegetation of trees and shrubs, it is useful to loosen the soil, which will promote greater penetration of autumn and spring precipitation into it, and also prevent parasites from remaining wintering near the plant itself. This procedure can be combined with the application of organic and mineral fertilizers.
We offer a list of fertilizers recommended for sealing in the soil after the end of the vegetative season:
- phosphoric. They contribute to the strengthening of the root system and the accumulation of protein compounds and sugary substances in woody juice;
- potash. Increase the frost resistance of all crops, contribute to the removal of excess fluid from plant tissues;
- wood ash or plant ash. Structurize the soil, prevent its sour, enrich the soil mixture with all the necessary trace elements;
- organic. Increase the content of humus in the soil, improve its moisture and air permeability, prevent mineralization of the soil, and increase the yield of all crops.
The exact rates of fertilization for each crop (depending on the type of fertilizer and age of the plant) can be found in the instructions on the package.
Thus, in the list of autumn fertilizers there are no nitrogen fertilizing, which is not introduced into the soil from the middle of summer. This chemical element activates the build-up of green mass and stimulates the growth of trees and shrubs, and from the end of summer the plants (finished or finishing fruiting) are preparing for the rest period. Accordingly, the activation of vital forces is simply counter-indicative.
To enrich the soil with phosphorus, single or double superphosphate is used. The difference between these compounds is only in the concentration of the main active element. It is important to know that phosphorus is a sedentary substance and hardly soluble in water. It is for this reason that scattering it on the surface of the soil is useless. Superphosphate is embedded in the soil in places where suction root processes occur to a depth of 10 to 15 cm for trees and 5 to 10 cm for berries. It is best to apply this fertilizer to holes up to 30 cm deep dug out from the projection of the tree crown around the trunk. A handful of fertilizer is poured into each hole, poured with water and buried.
Potassium sulfate is considered to be the best potash top dressing, in the composition of which there is no chlorine harmful to some crops. The rate of termination of this fertilizer for digging is from 5 to 10 g / m2.
It is much more effective to introduce phosphorus and potassium compounds not separately, but simultaneously, because in this case phosphorus is better assimilated in the soil complex.
Using potassium chloride - more economical option. So that chlorine does not cause harm to plants, fertilizer is introduced into the soil as early as possible, so that before the onset of winter, the harmful substance is washed by irrigation waters and autumn rainfall into the deep layers of the soil.
Calimagnesia - a fertilizing composition containing, in addition to potassium, magnesium so much needed by trees and bushes. It is advisable to use this fertilizer in the form of an aqueous solution, watering the trunk circles and the ground under the bushes.
At present, a large number of autumn fertilizers (both mineral and organomineral) that do not contain nitrogen compounds can be found on sale. There are specialized fertilizers for fruit and berry crops marked "autumn", which will help plants to winter and gain strength for the coming season.
For autumn top dressing of fruit trees and berry bushes, you can use vegetable ash, which practically does not contain nitrogen compounds, as well as chlorine, which is dangerous for some crops. This fertilizer is considered a natural source of phosphorus and potassium, it contains magnesium, iron, calcium, fluorine, boron, iodine and other components necessary for plant life. By the way, many gardeners successfully replace potash-phosphorus mineral fertilizers with ashes. The only negative is the need for large quantities of this fertilizer.
As for fresh manure, it is not used for fruit trees and shrubs because of the high dosage of ammonia, which can significantly damage (burn) the roots.
The best organic top dressing for a garden are:
- mature compost;
- peat or peat compost;
- humus (composted or completely rotted mullein);
- biohumus.
Under each plant, depending on the age, make from 1 to 5 buckets of organic fertilizers.
The seal is made during the digging of the soil.
According to experienced gardeners, the best option for a garden will be a combination of organic and mineral fertilizers. It is complex fertilizing that will allow assimilation of all nutrient components in the soil and their transformation into easily accessible forms for suction roots.
Apple trees and pears.
Under trees younger than 8 years, 10 kg of humus or compost are introduced, from 8 to 10 years - 30 kg, and older than 10 years - 50 kg. Fertilizer is plowed deep into the trunk circles and in the projection of the crown by digging.
Plums and cherries. Dry bird droppings or mullein are sprinkled in an even layer and sealed in the trunk circles with a shovel. After a few days, the plants are watered with a nutrient solution: 40 tablespoons are dissolved in 10 liters of water. l superphosphate and 8 tbsp. l potassium sulfate. Fertilizer consumption for young trees from 3 to 5 years - 2 buckets, adult plants are watered at the rate of 1 bucket per 1 tree.
Berry bushes (raspberry, gooseberries, currants). For each bush, according to 15 kg of humus or compost, add 60 g superphosphate and 40 g potassium salt. The nutrient mixture is embedded in ditches with a depth of about 20 cm, dug about a distance of about 0,3 m from the plant in a circle or in the aisles.
Experts recommend conducting scheduled dressings no later than the third decade of September - early October.
After top dressing, all trunks can be insulated with compost. In this case, with the onset of spring, it is not necessary to remove the mulching layer - it is enough to dig it together with the earth after the snow has melted.
Autumn preparation of the garden for winter cold includes also
treatment of tree trunks and shrubs for the prevention and treatment of diseases, as well as for getting rid of pests. First of all, the plants are cleaned from the old bark, mosses and lichens. Spend autumn spraying best after waiting for a complete fall of foliage. Since solutions for autumn processing have a high concentration, they can cause burns to the leaves (if you hurry and do not wait for them to fall completely), which will negatively affect the plants.
There are various means for processing the garden. Let us dwell in more detail on the most common.
Spraying with urea. If a part of the foliage is preserved on the trees, it is necessary to prepare an 5% solution (500 g of urea at 10 L of water), with its complete disappearance use an 7% solution (700 g of urea at 10 L of water). You can process not only the trunks and branches of plants, but also the land in the trunks. It is important to remember that too early treatment with urea will reduce the winter hardiness of fruit trees.
Copper sulfate will help protect the garden from moniliosis, scab, cocco-mycosis, curly hair, anthracnose and other ailments. They can also treat wounds on fruit trees - for disinfection. Dilute the drug according to the recommendation on the package.
Treatment with iron vitriol will bring the greatest benefit to old trees, as it will protect them not only from pests, but also from growth of mosses and lichens, from lesions of scab, cytoplasm, septospore and black cancer. In addition, iron vitriol will be a good top dressing for fruit plants, which are especially sensitive to a lack of iron: pears, apple, plum, peach, raspberries.
In the list of autumn affairs in the garden, it is necessary to add whitewashing of trees. This must be done in the fall - to protect against frost and the early spring scorching sun. Spring whitewash, as a rule, serves only as a decoration of the garden. Whitewash trunks should be as high as possible - up to skeletal branches.
This event will also become a good protection against pests. For whitewash, a lime solution (2-3 kg), copper sulfate (about 500 g) and joinery glue (no more than 150 g) is most often used. The composition forms a film that can protect the bark of trees from sunburn, which is quite likely not only in the spring, but also in the winter. In stores today you can find not only components for the preparation of solutions for whitewashing trees, but also ready-to-use mixtures.
It will help overwinter the inhabitants of the garden and the moisture-charging (or podzimnius) watering. This abundant watering is usually carried out in October along the tree trunks or along the grooves in the aisle rows. However, if the site is located in a marshy area or in the lowland, as well as in the vicinity of groundwater, autumn watering is hardly necessary, because there may be a stagnation of moisture. In this case, the roots of plants are able to suffocate and die due to the fact that they will not receive atmospheric air through the water column. Thus, when preparing a site for winter, it is necessary to take into account the peculiarities of its location.
Trunk circles of garden trees for the winter should be mulched with a layer of compost or humus. Do not use straw or hay as mulch, which will attract rodents. For the same reason, it is not worth wrapping the tree trunks with straw for warming - rodents will quickly smell this “bait” and will certainly settle in a prepared “nest”. Protecting the garden from these pests will help strapping from fir spruce branches, felts or nets, which must be buried in the ground. However, such protection should be erected no earlier than the end of October - the beginning of November, otherwise the trunk may mate under tight tying.
To protect against frost on the sunny frost-free day, I whitewash garden trees with lime mortar or water-based paint. For several years in a row I have been adding rat poison to this solution - to protect against rodents. And very pleased with the effect. Tatyana Olegovna Vrublevskaya
Strawberries and garden strawberries for winter should build up a healthy leaf machine, which will serve as a natural protection of the kidneys from frosts. It is for this reason in the autumn it is important to comply with all the rules of agricultural technology, make timely feeding, fight diseases and pests. One of the mandatory stages of preparing a berry for winter is its hilling with subsequent mulching. The land around the bushes is loosened at the end of summer. If you do this on the eve of winter, the damaged parts of the roots will not have time to recover before the cold, which will adversely affect the winter hardiness of plants. For the same reason, strawberries and strawberries are not recommended for late transplantation. By the way, weeds that have grown on strawberry beds, it is also better to remove in spring: before the onset of cold weather they will not give mature seeds, and when weeding we can damage the roots of strawberries or strawberries themselves.
The best protection berry From frost is snow, but in conditions of snowless winters you will have to use shelter. A good choice will be spruce lapnik, under which (for better air permeability), you can put brushwood or dry branches of raspberries. As a covering material, pine needles can also be used, which keeps the heat well and at the same time allows air to pass through. Large adult bushes can be sprinkled with pine needles in a circle, as if hilling, and young bushes are best to fall asleep completely.
If there is no opportunity to obtain lapnik or pine needles, they can be replaced with non-woven cover material.
In regions with snowless winters, even at low sub-zero temperatures, the soil can crack at a considerable depth, tearing up the root system of plants. In this regard, sometimes it is more important to protect not even the berry bushes, but between the rows. Prevent cracking of the soil in winter will help a good layer of mulch.
To warm the garden strawberries and strawberries it is advisable to proceed after the onset of frost, as the hardened plants will have winter hardiness higher: a light frost will go to the berry for good, providing the necessary pre-winter hardening. In addition, under berries, the berry will be deprived of light, which will negatively affect its preparation for winter.
Preparing the garden for winter - video
PREPARATION OF THE VINEYARD TO WINTER
To maintain all life processes in winter, the vine consumes a lot of nutrients that were accumulated before wintering, but a certain number of them should remain in the spring, since the development of shoots is based on these stocks. Thus, to ensure that the grapes not just survived the winter, but also in the spring went into growth, during the entire period of vegetation it is necessary to carry out planned fertilizing with mineral and organic fertilizers.
Experienced viticulturists are sure that for the winter on a bush of grapes there should be only the ripened vine, which has a characteristic brown color, is thicker and covered with bark. The most suitable vines have a diameter from 6 to 12 mm, and their cores occupy no more than a third of the thickness of the branch. These vines, as a rule, accumulate a sufficient amount of nutrients, so that the grapes successfully survive the winter.
As for young wood, it must be removed from the bush, as it will not only die during the cold, but also take away from the bush a significant part of much needed nutrients. At the same time, the unripe vine can often be affected by various diseases that eventually spread to the whole plant.
To help the vine mature, it is necessary to provide a bush with enough potassium by root and foliar dressings. The source of this nutrient element can serve as wood ash and potassium sulfate (without chlorine).
For the best ripening of the vine wood, standard garden coinage is often used. This process is a pruning of a large part of the shoot tip approximately above the 15 sheet. At the same time, the growth of the plant stops, and nutrients come directly into the bunches and are expended on the ripening of the wood. It is important to carry out this procedure in a timely manner, when the growth of shoots is suspended, if you start pruning pruning earlier, you can start the reverse process and get a large number of stepsons. It is not difficult to determine the optimal time for minting: during this period, half the even and half curved shoots can be observed on the bush of the grapes.
Many gardeners start pruning the grape immediately after harvesting, but at this stage, such a procedure can significantly weaken the plant and leave it for the winter without the necessary supply of nutrients. The fact is that the bush spends a lot of effort to ripen the harvest, and if the entire productive part is cut off immediately after harvesting, the grapes are deprived of the opportunity to store these nutrients. That is why it is necessary to give the vine time to restore its strength and only after that to carry out autumn pruning. In this case, the grapes will "leave" in the winter strong and prepared.
After harvesting, the vineyard is treated with special means for disease prevention and pest control. In case of detection of any damage or foci of infection, the affected part of the vine is immediately removed, otherwise the infection will spread.
After that, around mid-October, the grapes are watered abundantly. For greater efficiency, grooves are made around the rhizome so that the water lingers in them and does not spread over the soil surface. Thus, the life-giving moisture reaches directly to the roots. After watering the soil under the bushes regularly loosen to make it stay moist longer.
The next stage is feeding the vines with organic fertilizers with the addition of wood ash. The main thing is not to overdo it: it is enough to mulch the soil with a layer of peat or rotted manure.
After the autumn grape pruning, the cut sites are treated with copper sulfate (this serves as an obstacle to the penetration of harmful organisms and bacteria through the cut), and the vine itself is bound and bent to the ground. In this regard, they form grape shoots that are easy to lay on the ground - they must be flexible enough. This procedure should be started before the onset of stable frosts, however, after the vineyard meets the first frosts not covered, it will harden and better tolerate the subsequent decrease in temperature and its fluctuations.
Before the shelter, the grapes are bent to the ground and pressed with wooden trellises, so that the vine does not arch in the opposite direction and does not rise from the ground. Under the vine itself, it is recommended to put a dry material (for example, cut off parts of the plant) so that the grapes do not lie on damp ground. And on top of the construction is covered with waterproof material, for example, roofing paper or tarpaulin. You can use special covering material, agrovolokno, straw, lapnik. The shelter should be warm and light and at the same time it is good to let in air.
Pay attention!
Using conventional film can create a greenhouse effect inside the shelter, because of which mold is often developed and decay processes begin.
Experts recommend keeping grapes under cover as little time as possible, since the successful wintering of this crop is ensured, first of all, by its high-quality hardening, and only then - by proper shelter. With premature sheltering of the vine, the eyes may melt out, as well as the development of fungal diseases.
Preparing the cottage for the winter - 5 main tips: video
PREPARATION OF THE FLOWER TO WINTER
Autumn is the time to take care of the flower garden. If it is permanent, remove all plant debris, if it is temporary, then decoration elements (stones, bricks, bottles, etc.) should also be removed before spring.
For perennial flower crops, it is necessary to cut off the above-ground part, leaving shoots about 10 in height. Annuals are cut to the root and sent to compost.
First of all, you should clean the flower garden: remove all fallen leaves and debris, clean the flower garden of weeds and annual faded plants. The compacted soil must be dug (with fertilization) and allowed to "rest" during the month before planting new flowers.
Closer to the end of September, cut off the above-ground parts of perennials, and in the beginning of October they dig up tubers and bulbs of perennial flower crops that do not hibernate in the open ground (dahlias, gladiolus, canna, tuberous begonias, etc.).
Before the onset of frost, the early flowering plants (primula, crocuses, daisies, phloxes, snowdrops) hibernate and cover. Roses and clematis cover more carefully, so that in a snowless winter these plants do not become frozen. Perennials, growing several years in one place, need to be planted.
Without shelter, the daylilies, irises, perennial asters, catchment, delphinium, bahan, oriental and Siberian poplar, sedum, lupine, host, etc. can winter during winter. Fairly wintery flocks are flinty and sprawling.
Easy shelter in Belarus and in the middle lane of Russia require lilies (Lovely, Golden, Henry).
With the onset of persistent frosts, spruce lapnik is covered with hyacinths, and peonies are covered with peat (about 15 cm).
Frost-resistant hybrid tulips, like crocuses, will not be hampered by a light shelter from dry leaves or lapnika. They also cover the periwinkle, mallow, Turkish carnation, astilba, bell.
Roses are cut off, hummocked with humus, covered with leaves, topped with branches of trees and shrubs, raspberry stalks. You can make a frame of wire above the bushes and cover them later with a film, leaving the side vent. Similarly conceal valuable varieties of clematis.
See also: Preparing the flower garden for the winter
The wattling plants need to be bent to the ground and covered with thick paper, lapnik and polyethylene film.
In the mandatory pruning for the winter need roses, which do not remove lignified and damaged shoots, flowers and fruits. Other garden bushes and lianas remove dry leaves, cut off all damaged branches and cut sections with a protective composition. Clematis cut only varieties that blossom on the shoots of the current year.
At the same time, the cut is carried out at the level of 20. See Evergreen cuffs, geychers, lungworts and primroses for winter can not be cut, as are magnificent daylilies or hosts (they are removed only by peduncles). Usually, chrysanthemums, ferns, brunner, lilies of the valley and violets are not cut off for the winter. But Astilba, Nivian, Rudbeck, Peonies, Asters and Tradescantia are cut low. All plants with wintering leaves are cleaned only by yellowed, dry leaves and peduncles.
In wintering annuals (phlox, host, peonies), stems and dried leaves are cut off, and the soil is fertilized with compost or humus: at the rate of 0,5 buckets at 1 m2 landing.
When negative temperatures are established, it is possible to produce winter sowing of some annuals (for example, Iberia, poppies, resids and others). Seeds are then sown on a flat area of the soil and sprinkled with a mixture of sand, humus and peat.
The growth of these plants will begin immediately after the onset of the first warm days, and flowering can be expected exactly in season. The main thing is not to sow too early, so that the plants do not go into growth before the onset of cold weather.
Do not rush to remove cereal clumps, dry inflorescences and fruit seeds from the flower garden - they can become a good decoration of the garden (as well as decorative cabbage).
After all the garbage has been removed from the flower garden, it is necessary:
- carry out a sub-winter charge watering of bushes and ornamental tree crops (special attention should be paid to coniferous and winter-green plants);
- to conduct the last year loosening of the soil around plants, aerify the soil (this will prevent waterlogging during thaws);
- to cover all free soil with any available material (for example, peat) by a layer about 5 cm;
- tie the cones of coniferous plants with twine - to protect them from breaking off, and also tie other shrubs that are threatened with breaking under snow caps;
- begin to hilling and sheltering plants.
Autumn mulching of the soil can be called one of the most important agrotechnical measures in preparing the site for winter. Mulch will preserve the roots of plants located in the upper layer of the soil, in severe frosts and low snowy winters. The most common and affordable materials for mulching are peat chips and sawdust.
To make the mulching process more convenient, it is possible to fill with suitable material large plastic bags and lay them under trees and shrubs. Since the poor thermal conductivity of the mulching material hampers the rapid thawing of the soil with the onset of spring, it will have to be removed quickly and in time, and it is much easier to do this with packages than to throw frozen mulch with a shovel or pitchforks.
Terms of shelter are selected depending on the weather. As a rule, clematis and roses begin to prepare the shelter first, since this process will last for several weeks. The rest of the perennials can be harvested at the same time, but it is better to wait until the soil freezes to at least 5 cm.
Bulbous cultures. If you are late with the autumnal bulbous planting, try to plant bulbs and corms a bit deeper than usual, and fill them with a layer of loose compost. At the latest time of planting, you can cover them with spruce lapnik.
Dahlias. These luxurious beauties require carefulness in preparation for the winter. Low-growing dahlias in autumn can be transplanted into pots of suitable size, after cutting off all the faded stems, and placed in a light and cool place (for example, on a glassed loggia), thus prolonging the growing season. Tall Dahlias require digging.
Gladiolus. These plants also can not winter on the site. Gladiolus corms are released from the lower nonviable part, the upper corms are washed, disinfected and dried, and then stored for storage in a cool room. Children dry separately.
Cannes also can not be left in the cold. After the first autumn frost, the stem of the plant is cut at a height of 15 cm, digs up the rhizome with a clod of earth and transplants it into a box or bucket. During the winter months keep in a cool place.
Galtonia, acidiants and montbretsii. Corms of these plants are excavated from the middle to the end of October.
Roses. Preparation of roses for the winter is reduced to hilling, removing leaves, pruning (note: too early pruning will lead to the appearance of young shoots), disinfection and shelter. The braided roses are bent to the ground, covered with lapnik or thick paper.
See also: The correct preparation of a rose for winter (wintering)
Potted plants that spent the summer under the open sky must be brought into the room. This also applies to certain summer and perennial plants transplanted in autumn from a flower garden and vegetable garden. Part of the flowering plants brought to the house can be later cut and used as a planting material. However, do not be too lazy to inspect each plant carefully, so that pests, such as white-winged beetles, are not included in the house, which is very difficult to get rid of.
Clematis. In autumn it is desirable to feed the plants with potassium fertilizers, and the soil under them should be powdered with wood ash. Trimming
Clematis depends on whether they bloom on the shoots of the current or last year. The former leave stems about 15 cm high from the ground and completely cover them with compost. The second remove all damaged shoots, shorten the tops a little and add loose compost. After that, the whips are removed from the supports and laid for further warming (at a temperature of -3 ... -5 ° C).
I dig up heat-loving dahlias and gladioli from the soil long before the first frosts. At the same time, it is recommended to wash dahlia tubers with a weak solution of potassium permanganate (not more than 1 g per 1 liter of water) and store in the winter in a cool but not wet place (for example, in the basement). Bulbs of gladioli can be dug out of the soil literally 2-3 weeks after flowering. They need to be dried in the open air (but not in the sun!) And stored until spring in a relatively warm room. Hydrangea and peonies can overwinter in the ground - even without shelter, however, both crops need to be cut and freed from faded stems.
Valentina Porfirovna
To preserve varietal nymphaeus, they also have to be taken away for storage. For this, the baskets with plants are taken out of the pond and placed in aquariums or simply in large containers of water and stored in a bright room at a temperature from 0 to + 10 ° C. The main thing is that the plants do not dry up. If there is no possibility to place them in the water, it is possible to store the plants in moist peat, however, in this case, the hassle will be greater, since peat quickly dries up.
There are also more exotic ways of storage. So, a gardener from Karelia, for example, to save his nymphaea, leaves them in a pond, but throughout the winter constantly throws snow on a frozen pond so that a snow mound turns out. And nymphees under such cover well winter.
If you decide to try this method, dropping heavy baskets with nymphees into a deeper place in the pond is easiest with the help of strong ropes. It is most convenient to do this together. The ends of the ropes are fixed on the shore so that in the spring the baskets with the plants can be retrieved and returned to their original place without entering the cold water.
Some gardeners dig a deep pit on a site, lower baskets with plants and dig in them. And in the spring they dig it up and put it back in the pond.
If all of the above methods do not suit you for any reason, you can take the nymphs out of the water, cut off the leaves and place the rhizomes in a bag, pre-filled with wet moss. Store the nymphaea in a cool room. The main thing is to make sure that the moss does not dry out and observe two basic rules: in no case should the plants dry out and provide them with a resting state (for this purpose a cool enough temperature is not lower than 0 and not higher than 10 ° C).
Floating plants (for example, azolla and epicia) are placed in small water filled vessels with soil at the bottom. For these plants, light is very important (at least 10 hours per day of intensive lighting), but heating is not necessary: room temperature (or even slightly lower) is just right for them. It is desirable to immerse filters in the containers with plants (they can be made independently from conventional foam rubber) and "drive" the air with an electric pump. Thanks to this, water will mix, creating a homogeneous environment, which, in turn, will begin to activate the activity of bacteria, decomposing various rotting residues into food for plants.
It is generally accepted that in the autumn period the lawn does not require such careful care as other inhabitants of the garden. However, it is not. The optimal time for autumn lawn mowing is 2-3 weeks before the first frost. It is quite difficult to determine this time accurately, so you can focus on the end of October - beginning of November. At the same time, the height of the grass after mowing should be from 6 to 10 cm. Mowed grass should not be left on the lawn.
At this time, you can make a special mixture of autumn fertilizer for the lawn, along the way combing it and removing all the weeds, dry grass and fallen leaves. If this is not done, the lawn can stiffen, and the new grass will be difficult to break through last year's layers.
In the shelter, the lawn does not need: it will survive even a little snowy winter. But from fertilizing and aeration should not be abandoned. Fertilizers introduced into the soil in autumn should not contain a large amount of nitrogen, but phosphorus and potassium should be sufficient. Such top dressing will promote the growth of the root system and increase frost resistance.
See also: How to prepare a garden and trees in it for winter
Aeration of the lawn is carried out with special attachments to the motoblock or garden forks (to a depth of 15-20 cm). This measure is carried out to improve drainage and allows to divert water to deeper layers of soil. This is especially true for lawns, for which many went.
After putting in order the lawn, you need to take care of the mowing tool - the mower. It must be cleaned of dirt and plant debris, remove rust (if any), drain fuel and oil. After that, all mechanisms are lubricated with engine oil or anti-rust fluid. The mower should winter in a dry and warm room.
In the autumn, before the first frost, the hedges and decorative evergreen shrubs are cut.
The fall months are the best time for planting for distillation of certain types of shrubs and flowers that have a long growing season.
Plants most often die in winter, not so much from frost as from excess moisture, sudden changes in temperature and too early germination during warming. That is why the main purpose of the winter shelter is to protect plantings from dampness and weaken the temperature fluctuations (especially during thaws), which alternate with frost and the formation of an ice crust.
Before the shelter, the plot with plants should be provided with drainage drains, which exclude water stagnation.
It is dangerous to cover plants that winter in the ground, too early, because they can vyprite in a warm winter. The best time for shelter can be considered the onset of frosts (about 5 degrees of frost), providing soil freezing to a depth of 3 to 5 cm.
Professionals are sure that when preparing the garden and the whole country site for a long winter sleep, you should pay attention to the date when the first snow falls. Full winter, as a rule, comes after 40 days.
With the onset of cold weather, it is necessary to analyze what seeds are lacking for sowing in the new year, and also to check the freshness of those already available. In this case, experienced summer residents are advised not to abandon the old proven varieties and not trust in 100% advertising of new products.
At the same time, you need to take care of the purchase of fertilizers, stock up all the necessary means of protecting plants from pests and diseases.
In such troubles winter will pass quickly.
Preparing a flower garden for winter - video
WORKS IN GARDEN
Among the main stages of preparation of the garden for winter are:
• soil fertilization.
Most often on the eve of winter, the plot on which vegetable crops grew is not completely plowed. Many gardeners consider it sufficient to scatter on the surface of the bed a mixture of mineral fertilizers, manure, plant residues, sawdust and wood ash. However, other vegetable growers, on the contrary, dig through the entire area in autumn, combining the loosening of the soil with the introduction of mineral and organic fertilizers;
• mulching.
This measure not only protects the soil from freezing, but also helps to saturate it with nutritious elements;
• sowing seeds.
Ciderates are plants that are grown specifically for subsequent embedding in the soil. They help to prevent the growth of weeds and increase the fertility of the soil. The most common ciderates include clover, mustard, rye. However, it is necessary to consider the compatibility of the siderates and those plants that will take their place on the site in the spring. Experienced gardeners are perfectly guided in this matter, and beginning vegetable growers should use the compatibility tables of siderates and cultivated plants;
• Compost tab.
When preparing the garden for the winter, you can not do without the compost bookmark. You can use a large box for this purpose, but you can put compost in a pit or build a large pile of plant remains. As a rule, the bottom of the box or the pit is covered with branches and large parts of plants, and on top are smaller vegetable and other waste and covered with a layer of foliage. Then all are sprinkled with a layer of soil and watered with a solution of any EM-preparation (with a high content of microorganisms).
After that, there should be a layer with paper waste, then with food waste, again foliage, earth, EM preparation, etc. You can alternate the layers as long as there is material for future compost. The finished compost heap or pit is covered with foil and left until spring.
Increasingly, modern gardeners resort to so-called organic farming, which allows to harvest without the use of mineral fertilizers and pesticides. Proponents of this method, instead of digging, use soil loosening to a depth of 5 cm using a Fokine plane. After this, on the eve of the winter cold, the soil is mulched with ashes and sawdust and planted with siderat plants.
The main rule, which is advised to adhere to both experts and experienced vegetable growers: after harvesting, the garden should remain clean. Healthy plant stems are laid in compost or buried deep into the earth (where they fall in autumn and winter), and parts of plants damaged by diseases and pests are burned. The same fate must be grasped and weeds.
If the site will be dug up on the eve of winter (or the soil will be loosened using a walk-behind tractor), on the eve of this procedure it is necessary to plan which vegetables will be grown on the site next year and where they will be located, and only then prepare the soil in accordance with the needs of certain vegetable cultures. Early cabbage, pumpkins and zucchini, for example, love well-manicured land (by the way, the last two crops will feel comfortable and in the immediate vicinity of the dunghill). Moreover, with enough moisture there will never be too much manure for them. But this cannot be said about onions and garlic - only humus or compost soil should be brought under these crops. Phosphoric and potassium fertilizers (30 g of potassium or superphosphate per 1 m2). Similar requirements for root vegetables, lettuce, dill, radish and spinach.
3 glass of ash at 1 m2 Soils are quite capable of replacing the right amount of phosphorus and potassium fertilizers.
Depleted and infertile soil needs to be regularly fertilized with manure, which not only contains the necessary trace elements, but also improves its structure - makes it more loose and passes air and moisture well.
Do not abandon mineral fertilizers, but strictly follow the recommendations for the timing of their application and quantity.
In the autumn digging, carefully remove the roots of weeds from the soil (especially sore, wheat grass, gooseberry), as this will make it easier for you to work in the spring and even in summer, and also save plants from pests and diseases.
If the site is well grown horsetail and plantain, then the soil is heavy and sour. In this case, in autumn it is recommended to add up to 0,5 kg of lime per each square meter of area or 2 times as much ash. The shallow ground eggshell will also help to sour the acidic soil.
To facilitate heavy clay soils, along with manure, river sand is applied (according to 2-3 kg at 1 m2), peat, sunflower husks, etc. It is necessary to repeat this process periodically, because only with prolonged correct operation of the plot can it be possible to turn such soil into a fertile soil.
The soil after autumn digging is not smoothed with rakes, but large clumps of earth are left. They will keep the snow well and spring will accumulate more moisture in the soil. For better snow retention in the open winds of the garden, you can install additional low shields from improvised materials (stalks of corn or sunflower, twisted branches, preserved after pruning trees, etc.).
For the best preservation of moisture, it is possible to make small snow-retaining earth grooves along the entire perimeter of the garden, which in spring can be simply leveled out.
Proper preparation of the garden for winter is the key to a good harvest next year. During the vegetative period, the soil is depleted, and during the winter period, on the contrary, it is restored and heals. The poorest and most depleted parts of the garden are planted with rye for the winter, which not only enriches the soil with microelements, but also helps in combating weeds. Do not lose to me its relevance and well-known recommendations: from autumn to the site you need to make fresh organic, phosphorous and potash fertilizers.
Natalia Pavlovna VOLOSHINA
Podzimnie crops are better to spend vegetables in high areas, where the soil is fertile and loose. In this case, with the onset of spring, it quickly warms up and dries. As for the crops themselves, it is best to have them nearby and place the crops in such a way that during the spring field work they do not interfere. This is especially important when using the technique.
It is recommended to prepare the garden bed for autumn sowing of vegetable crops in advance - in about 15-30 days. To do this, dig the soil to a depth of about 20 cm and make compost or humus at the rate of 3 kg / 1 m2. The site is leveled and cut into 4-5-centimeter grooves (after subsidence the depth will be less). Small grooves are driven into the grooves, which after the snow can help determine the location of the rows.
When podzimnem sowing vegetables, you can make potassium and phosphorus fertilizers (superphosphate, potassium chloride, ammophos), but do not apply nitrogen fertilizers, because they are still washed over the winter from the soil.
Seeds of crops that germinate quickly (radish, salad mustard, daikon), it is better to sow in the soaked soil, otherwise shoots may appear in autumn and die. The prepared bed with grooves is covered with plywood or a film to protect from the first snow, and immediately before sowing the shelter is removed, and the seeds are closed with pre-prepared soil (it should be stored in a non-freezing room).
The period from the end of October to the beginning of November is considered optimal for sowing vegetables for the winter. The main indicator for which you need to navigate is the reduction of the soil temperature to 2-3 ° C.
Seeds that are planted in autumn do not need special preparation (soaking, processing of trace elements and growth stimulants, etc.). And the depth of their sealing should be increased almost 2 times compared to spring sowing.
After the podzimnego sowing of vegetables, the beds are mulched with sheet humus, sawdust, chopped straw or peat with a layer from 3 to 5 cm. This process not only protects crops from freezing, weathering and washing away, but also preserves the looseness of the soil. In addition, you can hide the garden with spruce or other materials that will help to hold the snow. Important: do not use a ruberoid and a polyethylene film for this purpose.
As for specific garden crops, winter garlic, for example, needs to be planted no later than the end of October - until the soil freezes. With a deep landing, the bed is not covered. At the same time, you can sow carrots and onions for the winter. Despite some loss of germination (compared to spring sowing), you can provide yourself with an early harvest.
In late November, you can start sowing greens - dill, parsley, lettuce, rhubarb. It is important not to ram the seeds into the ground, but to sow them on the surface of the bed.
In the spring, thanks to melt water, they themselves take root in the soil. And in order not to "lose" the sown beds, priporoshite their sand: against the background of black earth, the sown space will stand out well.
Pay attention: some perennial and biennial cultures are able to winter directly in the ground. They can be collected and eaten all autumn, and then in the spring, just after the snow comes down.
Wintering on a bed, winter-hard root crops are not deprived of those useful substances that are contained in them. In addition, these plants are unpretentious in cultivation and are rarely affected by disease or damaged by pests.
Jerusalem artichoke is appreciated for a large number of useful properties. Earth pear (as this plant is also called) is a real mix of vitamins, carbohydrates, proteins, organic acids and many other useful substances. Tubers dug from the ground in the fall are not well stored in the cellar: they become stained and moldy. However, they winter well right in the soil, because the plant is quite cold-resistant. Jerusalem artichoke can winter in the garden without shelter, but it is recommended to cover the planting in a snowy winter with a layer of straw (about 5 cm), and lay fir spruce branches on top.
Not carved in autumn carrots safely suffer winter frosts with good shelter. First, the plants need to cut off the tops and cover the plantations with spruce lapnik, and above it is necessary to lay a layer of straw (up to 15 cm thick). After that, the resulting "warm" bed is covered with a film. In severe frosts, it is recommended to throw more snow on the shelter. By the way, the quality of overwintered carrots by the spring is significantly reduced: roots are overgrown with small roots and slightly dried. And if for consumption in fresh form such carrots are not too good, then for processing is just right.
It is quite good to survive the winter without sheltering parsnips. However, to help the plant to survive the cold, it should be bored by a layer of soil about 5 cm thick. Thus, a small mound should turn out on the bed. By the way, among all vegetable crops parsnip is one of the leading places in the content of digestible carbohydrates
Well, the daikon and turnips winter well in the soil. However, in order to preserve the plants until the spring intact and safe, it is necessary to make boards for the garden bed and cut them into the ground for 10 cm. Before the onset of frost, the tops from the daikon and turnips are cut off, and the beds are covered with a layer of river sand (5-10 cm).
Leave for the winter in the ground can not only root crops, but also herbs, for example, parsley, root celery, chard. In spring (just a couple of weeks after the snow falls), these plants will give the first harvest.
The bed with parsley is ground for winter or mulched by a layer of humus (or compost) with thickness from 5 to 10 cm. Note: it is not necessary to save such plantings until summer, as plants of the second year are built up by powerful flower stalks, and the green mass mills and coarsens.
Well tolerates wintering in the soil of celery. On the eve of the cold weather, the plants cut the tops and soil it with soil. It is advisable to cover the top of the bed with spruce lapnik, which will hold snow on the bed and, thus, protect the planting from freezing. However, in the spring it is important to remove this shelter in time so that the plants do not get out.
See also: Preparing the garden and the site for winter - compulsory work and work
Mangold is another cold-resistant crop that can safely winter in the ground. For this, plants need to be covered with a layer of peat or sawdust (5 cm). If the farm did not find either one or the other, you can use ordinary dry leaves.
In autumn cleaning do not need perennial vegetables, which are well tolerated winter cold: sorrel, horse-radish, rhubarb, lovage; and also rhizome bows (brass, slizun, shnitt).
Safely wintering under cover of mulch mint, lemon balm, oregano, tarragon, etc. Such perennial plantings allow to receive vitamin green in the early spring.
And to speed up this process, beds can be covered with a film.
Do not water the sub-winter crops, as this can lead to swelling and germination of the seeds ahead of time. In spring, they will have enough moisture, formed during the melting of snow.
PREPARING FOR WINTER - OPINION TIPS AND REVIEWS
How to ensure a greater yield
Given the unpredictable weather of recent years, the correct preparation of garden crops for wintering is the key to the harvest of the next season.
FOOD, SPRAY, CLEANING
Immediately after fruiting, for better ripening of shoots and increase winter hardiness of the plants, I feed the trees and berries with superphosphate and potassium sulfate. I count on application rates, focusing on the type of culture and its age. It is also possible to increase the frost resistance of trees by using water-charging irrigation - deeply moistened soil freezes faster and thaws longer, which saves plant roots both in severe frosts and during sharp thaws. I spend it in October, even if there was rainfall in the fall.
After the final harvest, I carefully examine the trees and remove from the branches all the mummified fruits, if I find them. From the ground I clean and destroy the carrion. All this can become a hotbed of infections and pests. After the fall of the fall, I shovel all the leaves that have fallen in the garden and lay it layer by layer, pouring the earth into the compost pile.
CUTTING AND PROTECTION
On the trees I remove all damaged, withered and diseased branches. Then cut out all the thickening and growing shoots inside the crown and shorten the annual growth by about a third. If necessary, reduce the crown of the tree, shortening the skeletal branches to a well developed lateral shoot. After cutting, I trim all the slices with the garden sauce.
On the bushes of currants and gooseberries I remove the damaged and located close to the ground shoots. Then I cut out weak annual branches.
Pruning and spend in raspberries. Here, I remove the fertilized shoots, as well as weak and damaged gall midges. The tops of the young shoots are shortened by 10-15,
To rid the garden of pests and fungal diseases, after pruning I spend spraying plants and sticks with an 5-7% carbamide solution. This treatment also serves as a fertilizer, which stimulates the development of plants in the spring.
TIME TO SLEEP!
A few days after the treatment I proceed to the whitewashing of the trees. This will save them from frostbites and sunburn, from pests and diseases. First I clean the stems and skeletal branches from the dead cortex to the height to which I can reach. If I find hollows and cracks in wood, clean it up to healthy tissues, treat it with 1% solution of copper sulfate and cover it with a thick chatter on the basis of clay and mullein. After that, whitewash (for 10 l of water add 3 kg of lime, 0,5 kg of copper sulfate and 200 g of joinery glue).
The trunks of bushes, seedlings and row of raspberries are carefully loosened, and the soil under the mature trees is dug for half a pint of shovel without breaking up the clods.
HOLDING THE SWEATHER
Planting strawberries fall asleep with fallen needles from a nearby pine forest. I place dried plant mulch in the trunk circles of the berry bushes and young trees. To prevent rodents from settling in this mulch in winter, I add dry stems of lemon balm and mint, which grow in abundance in my area - pests do not tolerate this smell.
© Author: Igor KOSOV, Voronezh
What can I leave to spend the winter right on the beds?
The harvest of vegetables was a success, and there is not enough storage space for provisions? It does not matter - many vegetables are able to overwinter well in the garden.
Earth pear "home" is better
Jerusalem artichoke is a storehouse of vitamins, organic acids, carbohydrates, proteins, minerals. But the tubers of this plant are poorly stored in the cellar: they quickly become moldy, fade and deteriorate. But in the soil they hibernate without problems. The shelter for Jerusalem artichoke is needed only in a little snow-free winter. A layer of straw (5 cm) is suitable, it is advisable to top the lapnik from above.
"Fur coat" for carrots
With the onset of frosts, beds with carrots should be prepared for wintering - cut off the tops and cover the root crops with fir-tree paws. Sprinkle the coniferous layer with fallen leaves and straw (15 cm), cover with a film. In the frosty winter, sketch more snow on this bed.
Pasternak and parsley in the mounds
In a special shelter, parsnip and parsley do not need. It is enough to properly root the root crops. They should be covered with a layer of soil in 4-5 cm, and the bed should resemble a low mound. Instead of hilling, parsley can be confused with humus or compost (the thickness of the layer is 5-10 cm).
Sand in the garden - the daikon is fine - To provide a comfortable winter for the daikon, erect the boards from the boards. Groove them into the ground for 10 cm from each side of the bed. Cut the plant from the plants, and fill the river bed with a layer of sand in 10-15 cm. It is quite good to winter in the garden and celery. Cut off the tops, bum the root crops and cover them with lapnika. Be careful: in the spring, the snow will barely come and pass the threat of severe frosts, shelter needs to be removed, otherwise the root crops will get out.
Sawdust, peat or foliage
The options for hiding chard, oregano, mint, lemon balm, tarragon are several. Choose what is at hand. Suitable peat, sawdust or fallen dry leaves. The thickness of the shelter should be at least 3 cm. Spicy grass can also be covered with spunbond - then they will please you with greens in the early spring.
Perennials of frost are not afraid
Sorrel, rhubarb, horseradish, onions (batun, shnitt, slizun) perfectly tolerate frosts and practically do not need shelter.
© Author: Ioannina GORBATENKO, agronomist-chemist
Preparing a Garden for Winter: Xnumx Important
What will help the orchard to successfully winter? The care of the owner. A gardener with many years of experience Leonid VUTTO from Borisov shares his experience on what he must do in his summer cottage at the end of autumn.
- Leaves - in heaps
The leaves that have fallen down are never left in the garden - I don’t need this hotbed of diseases and pests. In dry, clear weather, I rake up everything and pile it up behind the fence around the perimeter of the site. In the spring, when return frost is predicted, I use this material for smoking. Or just burn it.
- Water and mulch for heat and protection
Every year, garden plants must be watered abundantly in the winter to saturate the soil with moisture. Such a land retains heat longer, slower as it freezes and thaws. Therefore, during the winter thaws, temperature fluctuations will not be sharp, which, of course, benefits the trees. Immediately behind the site I have a small lake, from where I take the water. I water once, but plentifully - at least 5 buckets under each tree in the grooves. The main thing is not to overdo it: if excessive watering occurs, the respiration of the roots may be disturbed, which may cause them to die. Then I warm the tree trunks with a swollen manure layer in 3-5, see. During the period of unexpected thaw, a layer of mulch will protect the tree from excessive moisture and freezing during further frosts.
- It's time to pour in the dolomite
I have acidic soil at the site, so be sure to lime it (every few years). I see that in summer a green bloom began to appear on the ground, something like moss, which means that it’s time to pour dolomites before winter (approximately 150-200 g for the trunk circle). I sprinkle on the surface of the soil - during the winter everything is absorbed. Especially useful this procedure stone - plum, cherry plum, cherry. I grow a hybrid cherry plum, which has such large fruits that neighbors confuse them with apples. And this year there was some kind of small plum - another signal that it was time to make a splash.
- Sanitary pruning
This year more than ever pleased a generous harvest of apples. The reverse side of this abundance - broken branches, even the supports did not help.
In November, I cut out all the affected branches. I leave the main pruning for early spring. But if I see that there are two large branches to be removed on the tree, I cut one of them in the fall, and the second in the next season, in order to reduce stress for the plant.
- No burns and cracks
Another real threat to trees is freezing, sunburn. The most simple and effective protection is whitewashing. I prepare the solution myself: I use lime, add some copper sulphate and milk or clay (for better adhesion). White is as close to frost as possible, when precipitation is no longer foreseen, otherwise all the work will go down the drain. One year it rained until the New Year - naturally, the lime was completely washed off. I had to whitewash in February.
And one more thing: when I only mastered garden wisdom, I read that whitewashing protects young trees from hares. Believe it! And only in the spring I understood what I made a mistake: the whole young garden went to feed on eared ones. Since then, young trunks wrapped strips of bags of sugar or sacking. A plot fenced - and the issue of protection against hares has disappeared as superfluous.
Recorded by Victoria Gulko
"Only this is not enough ..."
The chorus of the famous song is the best way to characterize the garden and garden troubles: however much you do, it will still be a little.
But seriously, even a dull autumn at times, on the eve of winter, an experienced summer resident will always arrange a control check for his site.
It only seems that with the end of the summer season business becomes less. No, it's not time to relax! It often happens that the summer resident simply does not know what to grab. Make your life easier, make a preliminary list of the most necessary works in your notebook.
This year, the summer has pleased, but in the past it just did not happen! Well, we have worked well, "only this is not enough." Before the snow seems to be far away, but much remains to be done.
Every year for planting cucumbers, I prepare a bed in the fall. Roy "trough", ie I make a warm bed in the traditional way: I put down chopped branches cut from shrubs, cut perennial bushes and other organic waste. I sprinkle with eggshell, dolomite flour for liming and bring in calcium for further crops. Having fallen asleep with the earth, I sow mustard on green manure and after the first frosts I plant it in the soil. In the spring, on this bed I sow the ovac oatmeal mixture, cover it with foil, and before planting the cucumbers the green mass grows there - the future mulch.
I close up cut tops of carrots in different parts of the beds - this is a treat for worms. For their successful wintering, it is also good to bring used cotton wool to the ground that has served its term.
The tops of tomatoes have their own special purpose. Chopped into pieces, put it under the gooseberry bushes - it will protect it from powdery mildew. In summer, this mission is performed by stepchildren of tomatoes and excessive seedlings, I plant it between the bushes of gooseberries and currants - it repels pests with my smell. I do not bind this tomato and not the stepson - it is “carelessness”, but in the fall I also harvest from it.
Nude haircut
It's time to do the haircut! This applies to perennial flowers. We do a long “hairstyle” - 15-20 centimeters, leaving stumps to hold snow and as identification marks for spring, especially lilies. And in the spring, after the snow melts, shear already “to zero” and comb with a fan rake.
With siderats, and with me it's mostly mustard, you can do two things. For example, leave to hold the snow, but I prefer the second option - incorporation into the soil. During the winter, the stalks of the green manure remaining on the bed will dry out, and those planted in the soil will be processed. After autumn loosening of the green manure bed, I cover it with material at hand — old clothes, black wrap, doormats, etc. - to preserve nutrients in the soil. I’ll cover up the strawberries, and I’ll stick the arcs in the fall. In the spring you will take cover - and it is green, ready to work. And if you still throw a film or lutrasil onto the arcs, you will be able to regale yourself a week earlier!
Before the frost, the raspberry should also be bent down, while its stalks are flexible, and I cut the cuttings from the seed-bearing branches immediately after the harvest.
Roses are not dying of frost
It's time to take care of the potatoes. On the bed intended for future planting, I make along two grooves, in them I also fold shredded waste of vegetables, in a word, the same as in warm beds, only in shredded form (except for bushes). The ground taken out of the holes is folded along the edges of the beds, forming a swath or a ridge. During the winter, this swath freezes, killing the larvae of pests, and in the spring it quickly thaws and is ready for early planting of potatoes.
The time has come for sheltering grapes and roses. Having removed the vines from the props, I lay them on the boards or slate, which have served their age. I throw on top with a dry cut of perennial flowers, I spread a film of rain on them, but not tightly, leaving a "blow", and finally I press it with planks so that the film does not blow off. All winter calmly, my beloved. Last winter, I used egg containers to shelter the standard roses - I did not put them too tight around the stems. Cardboard absorb excess moisture, while synthetic ones serve as storage rooms for air. From above, of course, warming and shelter from the rain.
But in this case, the main thing is not to overdo it. Roses are better than under-insulating than re-insulating: in most cases, they die not from the cold, but from overheating.
Do not forget to hide and heat-loving flowers - chrysanthemums, tradescantias, etc., but this is another topic from the field of floriculture.
That's it, now it’s time to relax and look forward to the next spring.
NOTE: OWN HAND ROSE PETAL LIQUOR
Petals 10-12 large bright flowers, 400 g of sugar, 250 ml of vodka, 2 l of water, 1 Art. l citric acid.
Boil water and dissolve sugar and citric acid in it, cool to room temperature.
Disassemble the flowers on the petals and put them in a clean 3-liter jar. Pour syrup, close the jar with a nylon cover and put on a sunny window under the direct rays for one month. Shake the jar periodically. After a month, strain, mix with vodka and bottle. Put the bottle in a dark place. A week later, liquor is ready!
The strength of liquor can be increased by increasing the amount of vodka. The color of roses does not affect the taste and aroma, but the most beautiful liqueur is obtained from dark red flowers.
© Author: Nina Alexandrovna BORISOVA
Below other entries on the topic "Dacha and garden - with their own hands"
- Autumn work in the garden - an experienced gardener advises ...
- Autumn garden work - professional advice
- Garden, garden and flower garden in September - a memo of important matters
- Distillation of tulips for March 8 - expert advice
- July in the garden: a memo for the summer resident - PART 2
- Cucumbers and tomatoes: how to care in the middle of summer
- Tomatoes, peppers, eggplants: care in the middle of summer
- December - work in the garden: hearth, berry, vegetable and flower
- Forcing ornamental plants in winter
- Calendar of folk garden signs for planting vegetables
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November is already in the yard, and the leaves have not flown around my apple trees.
I worry: because it is not normal? Why did this happen? And how does this threaten the trees?
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- You worry not in vain! Trees prepared for cold weather go into the winter without leaves. In your case, the apple trees are far from resting. Why? Often, we ourselves create the wrong conditions when, after 10-15 July, we bring humus or other organic matter into tree trunks, and even worse - complex mineral fertilizer. As a result, plants receive nitrogen and begin to grow, rather than budding. Illiterate and unlimited summer pruning can also increase the growth of new shoots. And even early watering irrigation (when there are still green leaves on the trees) after a dry summer will slow down the preparation of plants for cold weather. As a result, trees enter the winter weakened, with underexposed ends of the shoots.
What should be done
Of course, even before the frost, it was necessary to spray the trees with a solution of urea (500-700 g per 10 l of water), but now it is too late. If possible, remove the leaves and the remaining fruits. Insulate the tree trunks with peat, compost, rotted manure, and earth. Be sure to whitewash the trunks and bases of the skeletal branches, and for young trees, wrap the strands with spanbond, hessian.
Natalia DORONINA, teacher of the school of gardeners
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About three years ago a crack appeared on the trunk of the apple tree, which grew and dried up. Cleared it, disinfected it, it did not help. One experienced gardener suggested the following recipe: mix half a bucket of clay and manure, 100 g of copper sulfate and a handful of ashes.
The resulting composition smeared the wound on the cortex and bandaged it. A couple of months, he took off the bandage.
Compress helped - the wound began to drag out. Since then the apple tree has been fruitful for several years.
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I was late with the digging out of the assembly and sending the bulbs for winter storage. Can I still leave this plant in a flower garden and try to somehow save it from freezing?
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- The climate has changed in recent years towards warming. And in the southern regions of Belarus, some florists are already left to winter the montage in the open ground. Hurry to arrange a dry shelter for the flower: first fill the landing with a thick layer (at least 20 cm) of dry leaves, sawdust or peat, and cover with a roofing felt and snowmaking lapnik on top. In spring, remove the shelter as early as possible, weak frosts, the montbretia is not afraid. So does one of my acquaintances collectors bulbous, living in Grodno. Experience is quite successful!
Wintering grounds in the ground sprout faster, bloom for a week or two before planting the 2nd spring.
But in the northeastern regions, the climate for montbreting is severe, the probability of frostbite is high, so we store the bulb nests together with a small amount of soil in the basement, at a temperature of + 4-8 degrees, in wooden boxes, pouring dry sawdust or moss sphagnum. With prolonged storage in the house, the bulbs can dry out, but in the spring they can not germinate. In any case, they should be periodically inspected, with signs of drying (become wrinkled), planted in pots to grow.
Ivan Morozov
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Do you need to dig out the corms for the winter?
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Better leave them to winter in the open ground. Cover for the winter with a layer of sawdust (10-15 cm). In the spring you will get amicable shoots, in the summer abundant flowering. Applying this method, montbretions in one place can be grown 5-8 years.
In the cellars (and other cold rooms), corms of montbrets are poorly stored dry or rot, and when planted in the open ground they do not have time to bloom before the autumn cold.
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From time to time I update my garden - I clean up old ones and plant new trees. Of course, the first winter is the most difficult for “young growth”. Therefore, I always warm them, even despite our seemingly mild winters.
First of all, I mulch the tree trunks with a thick layer of peat or humus. And to cover the boles I use a heater for pipes. I cut it along and put it on the trunks of young trees. On top of the heater I wind up the burlap and gently pull it with twine. In such a fur coat to the trees, no frost is terrible!