Shelters for plants for the winter: which one is better - a reminder
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Choosing the best shelter for the winter for a variety of plants, flowers
The main tasks of the winter shelter of flower plants are to smooth the temperature drops, to prevent the plants from quickly cooling down in the frost and warming up into a thaw. Let's talk about the important points that will help the flower garden successfully survive the cold.
PREPARATION FOR SUCCESSFUL WINTER:
- mandatory autumn water recharge irrigation;
- pruning of the dry aboveground part in most perennials to the ground (some leave a stump);
- shelter of late planted plants
- Suitable shelter
Humus (they are hilly or mulched).
Better than ordinary garden soil, because it is more friable, lightweight, does not cake, keeps heat well. In addition, it is an excellent fertilizer that increases the fertility of the soil. A huge plus of this kind of shelter is the creation of a small difference in heights that will take away thawed waters and prevent wetting.
See also: Shelter of roses for the winter - to be accurately wintered
Lapnik (more often spruce and pine).
The branches create a heat-insulating air space above the plants with good ventilation, protecting them from frosts, cold winds, icy rains, winter sun, rodents. Dry leaves. Take them only from healthy plants (better - birch, maple, viburnum, oak). Do not cover wet leaves! After you fill the plants with leaves, place a frame over them and throw a nonwoven material (spand-bond, agrospan), fixing it on the ground with stones, bricks, etc.
Shelter term: the onset of light frosts, when the soil freezes to 1-2 CM (late October-early November)
FACT: Not looking for a shelter: rue, BUZUL-NIK, alyssum, cornflower, loosestrife, VERONICA, columbine, carnation, geranium, doronicum, Campion, IRIDODIKTIUM, marigold, saxifrage, bells, decorative MAK, Aubrieta, yarrow, perennial SAGE.
Shelter for tulips
With the onset of light frosts, the flower beds with tulips should be covered with peat in a layer of 3-4 cm. Such a shelter not only prevents cracking of the soil in frost and damage to the roots of tulips, but also promotes the development of sturdy peduncles, large flowers and increases the reproduction rate. In spring, peat from the ridges should not be removed - the land will soon wither away, soil moisture will be better preserved, the weeds will not grow so quickly.
Shelter for conifers
Heavy, sticking snow on the branch, breaks the conifers, bends plants to the ground. To avoid this, gently pull the crowns of the tuya, cypress and juniper shrubs or wrap them vertically with cover material. Many coniferous plants, especially recently planted, suffer from sunburn in the winter and early spring, so they are tied with lapnik, ruberoid, burlap or dark lutrasil.
Tree-like peonies
In the middle zone, it is sufficient to cover the tartan, burlap or lutrasil with a secure landing site. In snowy winter, fill the bushes with snow. To retain heat, wrap the soil around the plants with peat or dry humus.
In regions where peonies begin to grow early (March-April), they suffer from frost, so cover the plants for the night with lapnika.
First, cover the soil in the trunk circles. Young plants should be better covered with a friable hut of lapnika so that it is ventilated. Most troubles with evergreen rhododendrons - the shelter material should not touch the leaves, so build around the plants a spacious frame, and from above put the covering material. Flexible branches are better to bend to the ground. Until the middle of November, under the skeleton with a shelter, there should be a ventilation slit. Finally, cover the rhododendrons when frosts are set. In the winter thaw wind. In the spring, timely remove the mulch from the root collar, otherwise the plants will not bloom.
If tall junipers grow on the site, bend their narrow crowns in half, secure them securely with 3-4-x poles, to which then tie the lapnik.
If the dry leaves are packed in bags of plastic or kapron mesh with small cells (they sell vegetables), then these same bags can hide the wintering areas bulbous, new planting perennials. In addition, such a shelter is easy to clean in the spring.
See also: Shelter of roses for the winter - tips of experienced rosewoods
What is better to shelter flowers for the winter - table
Flowers |
The best way to shelter for the winter |
Phlox, Veronica |
Layer of leaves in 10-15 cm |
Geiger |
Hilling by humus (as rhizomes grow up and are above the soil level) |
Dicenter |
Mulching by humus |
Iris |
In 1, the planting year is mulched with humus |
Clematis |
Dry leaves up to an altitude of up to 40 cm |
Crocus |
Mulching peat or shelter with leaves |
Day-lily |
Mulching with peat |
Lily |
Crop to the ground; mulching with dry peat, needles or fallen leaves |
Decorative onion |
Mulching with humus or compost |
Narcissus |
Mulching with dry leaves a layer of at least 10 cm |
Forget-me-nots |
Mulching with humus or peat |
Peony herbaceous |
Cut to the ground; mulching with rotted manure, compost or peat |
Grouse |
In 1, the planting year is covered with dry leaves |
Brunner |
Mulching with peat, compost, humus |
Zhivuchka |
Slightly sprinkled with light soil |
Goldenrod |
Shoots are cut off, leaving small hemp; mulching by humus |
Milkweed |
1 plantings of the year covered with dry leaves |
Shelters for plants for the winter - rest, tips and tricks
Winter "fur coats" for plants - choose the best
The right choice of shelter is not only a guarantee that drinking will not die by the next growing season. This is an opportunity to increase its winter hardiness (not frost resistance!) - that is, every year the plant will become more and more resistant to local wintering conditions.
Lapnik: the pros and cons
- Protects the spring from overheating.
- It does not rot, and it does not accommodate destructive microorganisms, mold, mushrooms.
- Almost does not retain heat and can only save from the cold wind.
- Prepare it when the cold sets, otherwise the needle will fall earlier than time.
Leaves
Must remain dry until spring. Therefore, the film shelter above them is better arranged in the form of a shalashik - on a frame. It is undesirable to leave and big produhi. Ideally, if the frost cover is under the snow. After all, if the sheet gets wet, it can turn into a hotbed for mushrooms and mold.
They are collected dry and stored under shelter before shelter. Excellent for this fit mesh bags for vegetables: they do not preyut leaves. Directly in the grids you can hide, then you can remove the shelter in a matter of minutes.
Humus or soil?
Choking with humus is a classic way. This will protect plants from soaking, will help to keep the heat in the root zone longer. They hibernate late, but before the soil freezes. They also use ordinary garden soil, however humus is lighter and looser, does not cake, does not form lumps, improves fertility. It has lower thermal conductivity - better insulation. However, it freezes more strongly and thaws more slowly than the garden soil. In the spring, remove its top layers as it thaws.
Expanded clay
- Does not burn and does not rot.
- Its most useful feature is low thermal conductivity.
- He - and mulch, and heat insulator.
- Summer protects plants from getting wet and rotting.
- As a covering material is especially useful in early spring, when a lot of sun and frosty nights. The soil under the claydite thaws faster.
- But this is true for the solar plot. On the north side, in the shadow of this effect is not obtained.
- In the autumn, the use of expanded clay is also there - the soil under it cools slowly, and the plants manage to adapt to the cold.
- Keramzit can cover the roots of plants immediately after the autumn pruning. Even if it's still warm.
© Author: Valery IVANOV, biologist, Moscow
© Author: Lyudmila ULEYSKAYA, Cand. Biol. Sciences, Yalta. Photo by the author, Tatyana Sanchuk and Valentina BONDAR
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Most bacteria and fungi in the cold season cease vital functions. But there are some that activate at a temperature of about 0 °. First of all, we are talking about different types of snow mold.
The main variety - Fusarium snow mold - is caused by the fungus Fusarium nivale. But there are scorpocial, pink, gray and other forms that differ in the type of pathogen, the area of distribution.
The most active snow molds in late autumn and early spring, under wet snow. For the prevention of wintering plants, especially roses, before the shelter is treated with fungicides, dust ash. The thaw of the shelter is aired.
Lawns and creepers perennials from the autumn fed potassium-phosphorus fertilizers. Before wintering, the green cover is combed by rakes, removing the dead grass, the tangled "felt".
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No matter how much he experimented with grape varieties that supposedly do not need shelter for the winter, he was convinced that it was still necessary to cover the vine.
But under a roofing felt or a film, grapes can vypret, under the shelter often mice are taken away and spoil the grapes. I solved the problem with the help of lime.
I cut off the grapes, tie them and peg them to the ground.
Then I dilute the lime in water to the consistency of liquid sour cream and lavishly apply the mixture to the vine with an old broom or a large brush. I let the lime dry for several hours and cover it with a layer of earth of about 30 cm. Under this shelter, the vine does not freeze, does not bark, mice do not bite it. In the spring I clean the ground, open the vine and shake it lightly - most of the lime is crumbled. That which did not fall off, I remove with a brush.