Growing chrysanthemums and their place in garden design

Autumn, the tart aroma of chrysanthemums is already in the air. And although some species and varieties blossom in the height of summer, gardeners appreciate them for the lush and bright later blooming, which so brightens the autumn sadness, muffling nostalgic notes. The variety of garden chrysanthemums is huge. Perhaps no other flower can boast of such a palette of colors and variety.

Chrysanthemum - biological description

Chrysanthemums are annual and perennial. Perennials come from China and Japan, and annuals come from the Mediterranean and Africa. In the East, chrysanthemums have been cultivated for more than two thousand years, and in Europe they appeared in the late 17th century. In recent decades, scientists have referred to the genus Chrysanthemum only annual species of these plants, and perennial called dendrantes. However, gardeners often use the old classification.

Chrysanthemums belong to the family of Compositae. It is a herbaceous or semi-shrub plant height from 20 cm to 100 cm. The leaves are regular, simple, whole, jagged, notched or dissected, have a characteristic spicy aroma.

The inflorescence is a basket with a diameter from 2-3 to 15-17. See the coloring of the inflorescences: white, yellow, pink, purple, cherry, lilac, brown, not only blue and blue tones. The shape of the inflorescence is from chamomile to globular, some with long, thin tabby flowers. Flowering is abundant, lasts about 60 days, early varieties bloom in June, late - in September-October. Fruit is the seed. Seeds preserve the germination of 2-4 year.

Chrysanthemums combine well with hosts and rhododendrons

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See also:  Large-flowered chrysanthemums - care for flowers, growing and reproduction, photo

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Use in Design

For the design of the garden suitable small-flowered and annual chrysanthemums. Low-growth plants are planted in garden containers, and also used to decorate curbs and the front edge of the flower beds, where they give effective color spots. And tall ones are good against the backdrop of walls, hedges, in the background of mixborders. Chrysanthemums with verbena Buenos Aires, Echinacea, perennial asters, Perovski, sedum, ornamental grasses are combined. "Large-head" varieties are designed for cutting. They require special growing conditions (in particular, shelter from the rain). They are best planted in containers and placed on terraces.

Varieties and types of chrysanthemums

The most common Korean chrysanthemums of hybrid origin (Chrysanthemum x koreanum), which bloom from September to frost. A variety of varieties of this species have been identified, which differ in height of the bush (60-90 cm), color and size of simple, double and half-double inflorescences 3-7 in diameter.

Popular series Multiflora - globular bushes about 60 cm in height with bright, dense marrow inflorescences of different colors; the Raquel variety of inflorescence is simple pink; from Ruby Mound - terry red; the Starlet - terry, bronze. For a group of hybrids Rubellum typical high bushes (about 90 cm). The most famous varieties of this group are: Nancy Perry - inflorescence half-pink;

Emperor of China - terry pink; Mary Stoker simple cream. Pillow chrysanthemums are very popular, they differ very dense rounded shrubs up to 45 cm high, bloom from August to frost.

У Debonair inflorescence terry pale violet; the Holly - pompons yellow; the Nicole - Spherical white. Large-flowered Indian chrysanthemums (Chrysanthemum indicum) are distinguished by large inflorescences (diameter 10-20 cm) and late flowering (October-December).

Of annuals the most common chrysanthemum planting (Chrysanthemum Segetum L.) - plant height of 50 cm, inflorescence is more often simple, with a diameter of 5-7 cm, with a dark center. In the variety Zebra flowers yellow reed with red ends; the John Briton - light yellow, middle brownish-black; the Prado - golden yellow with an almost black center.

Chrysanthemum cetate, or tricolor (Chrysanthemum Carinatum = Chrysanthemum Tricolor), height 60 cm, differs in circular strips of different shades, which frame the middle of the inflorescence. Kokarde has a carmine circle on a white background; Court Jesters - a combination of white and yellow-brown circles. Have chrysanthemum crowned (Chrysanthemum coronarium) inflorescences yellow and white-yellow in different shades, height varies from 30-50 cm (in ocher-yellow variety Golden Save) to 70-90 cm (for yellow-and-white terry Flora Plenum).

Chrysanthemums open wide for creativity in front of the florist. Letniki, which with their bright flowering can paint any corner of the garden, and perennials that create variegated carpets from July to late autumn, make it possible to realize the boldest ideas. It is worthwhile to plant only a couple of bushes chrysanthemums - and they will firmly enter your horticultural life.

Chrysanthemums: Care and growing conditions

All chrysanthemums are light-loving plants. They are planted in open places, protected from the wind (for example, by a shrub).

Annual varieties are unpretentious, cold-resistant, rather drought-resistant. They are suitable for light, moderately fertile soil. Chrysanthemum keel prefers limed soils, and sowing - poor lime.

From frost-resistant dendrats are plants with relatively small flowers, in particular, Korean hybrids, Rubellum hybrids and popular pillow-shaped varieties today. They hibernate in the open. But plants with large inflorescences (they are called Indian and Japanese chrysanthemums) must be excavated and brought into the non-freezing room with the onset of cold weather. Perennial chrysanthemums need a weakly acidic, friable, fertile soil and permanent, but moderate moistening, if the soils on the plot are heavy-peat, sand, organic are applied.

Chrysanthemums refer to plants of a short day, flowering begins when the light day is reduced to 8 h, although many modern hybrids are deprived of this feature. The best temperature for flowering is about 15 ° C.

In one place, chrysanthemums can grow 4-5 years. But for lush flowering bushes need to rejuvenate (divide) every 2-3 year. Pike-shaped chrysanthemums are recommended to be renewed by cuttings.

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See also:  Chrysanthemums - care, beautiful varieties, nipping and preparation for winter

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Seeds, cuttings and cuttings

Chrysanthemums can be propagated in three ways: annual - by seeds, and perennial - by bush division and cuttings. Seeds of annual chrysanthemums are sown in the open ground in April-May, shoots appear in 5-15 days. The seedlings are thinned or planted, leaving 20-30 distance between plants. The bushes of perennial chrysanthemums are divided in April-May, and propagated by propagation in spring and summer. For cuttings take shoots of height 5-10 cm and root shoots, are rooted in a youngster or under a can. Rooted cuttings are plucked to stimulate branching. Wintering chrysanthemums in the room begin to cut, when the first shoots appear. They are rooted at home, then grown in a greenhouse and planted in the ground.

Chrysanthemums

Pinching (pinching) is an important technique for the formation of a flowering bush. To get abundant flowering, each shoot length of 15-20 cm pinch the tip, and as shoots grow, the procedure is repeated 1 -3 times. Cut off tops can be rooted. If it is necessary to grow large flowers on a cut (concerns large-flowered varieties), then the 2-3 stem is left on the bush, and in the growth process all stepsons are removed. High chrysanthemums require a garter or supports.

Watering and feeding of chrysanthemums

In the care of chrysanthemums, feeding and watering are important. Feeding is carried out before flowering, 2-3 times organic fertilizers in combination with mineral fertilizers. For example, infusion of mullein with the addition of phosphorus-potassium fertilizers and trace elements. A good effect is also provided by foliar top dressing with nitrogen: 2 a spoonful of urea is dissolved in 1 l of water and sprinkled over the leaves.

If there is a lack of magnesium and phosphorus in chrysanthemums, resistance to disease decreases, growth slows down, leaves shrink, lose turgor, hang, □ shade, after the end of flowering, organics are added around the perimeter of the bush (half a bucket of compost - under a bush of Korean chrysanthemums, half a liter jar - undersized varieties), and also are embedded in the soil around the bush 3-4 st. spoons of bone meal or 2 st. spoons of double superphosphate.

Pour chrysanthemums 2-3 times a week (about 2 l of water for a tall plant and 1,0-1,5 l - for a short one) and only under the root, otherwise the leaves appear spots and there is a risk of infection of the plant with fungal diseases.

Preparation for winter

Before winter, chrysanthemum bushes are cut at an altitude of 10 cm above the soil level, lightly hilled and covered with lapnik or peat. All large-flowered chrysanthemums (unmarried) with the onset of colds are excavated, transplanted into pots (buckets, boxes) and taken to a house where they can bloom for a long time. Then the plant is cut at a height of 15 cm and kept until spring in a cool place (can be in the cellar), watered very moderately.

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See also:  Chrysanthemum crown (photo) planting and care

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I knew that the large-flowered chrysanthemum is very easy to grow.

But faced with the fact that the plant began to hurt. Leaves and stems were covered with specks. Chrysanthemum began to fade. What to do? And another question: from what do these flowers most often suffer?

Tamara Pavlovna Zhivitskaya, Gomel region, Mazyr

STARTING A DIAGNOSIS

Large-flowered chrysanthemum is most often subjected to verticillary wilt. The fungus penetrates through the roots, causing the leaves to turn yellow and the stems die.

It is also affected by powdery mildew: shoots, leaves, buds and flowers are covered with a harmful white patina.

The plant can also pester rust. The disease is manifested by the fact that all aboveground chrysanthemum organs are covered with chlorotic specks. They turn brown, the leaves turn yellow, the stalks grow thinner.

Another problem is gray rot. In this case, blurry brown spots appear on the leaves. They are covered with a fluffy coating causing rotting.

Leaf spot, or septoria, appears as leaf spots that first turn yellow, then gradually turn dark brown and black.

PURPOSE TREATMENT

If such diseases pester the chrysanthemum, it will have to be urgently saved! In particular, having discovered a fungal infection, it is necessary to treat the plant with drugs containing copper. Chloroxide copper, for example, successfully fights septoria, gray rot and rust.

I can control powdery mildew and gray rot by applying bordeaux liquid, and copper-soap emulsion and colloidal sulfur will perfectly deal with rust.

RECIPE

To prepare 10 l of the working solution of copper-soap emulsion in 9 l of rain or soft water, dissolve 150-200 g of soap. Separately, in 1 l of hot water in a glass or earthenware dissolve 5-10 g of copper sulfate. This solution is poured into a thin stream of soapy water, constantly stirring. Properly prepared emulsion should be greenish and free of flakes.

When flowers are doomed

Symptoms indicated by the author of the letter can also be caused by viral diseases - a mosaic (mosaic spots appear on the leaves), ring spotting, asperm-like (spots in the form of specks). Unfortunately, there is no cure for viral diseases. The affected plants must be carefully dug up, leaving no roots in the ground, and burned. In order to prevent the infection from planting flowers, it is necessary to use sterile tools for all manipulations with them, as well as constantly fight against insects, which usually spread viruses.

Leaves "stained" pests

Nematodes are the most annoying chrysanthemums, which, even if they do not infect plants with viruses, are still harmful. The chrysanthemums affected by these microscopic worms become covered with yellow-brown spots, they merge and cover the whole leaf, which dries and falls.

As a preventative measure, it is worth sprinkling a phosphamide solution and also treating the soil with formalin before autumn digging or planting (transplanting) chrysanthemums. But the specimens that are affected by the nematode will have to be destroyed immediately.

By the way, and aphids love this plant. Usually she feels comfortable, settling on the bottom of the leaf or bud. This pest sucks the juice from the plant, which naturally prevents the growth and flowering of the chrysanthemum.

If you are dealing with a single colony of aphids, then it is destroyed along with the leaves on which it has settled, but if the plant is covered with aphids, spray it with "Aktellik" or "Aktar" with the addition of laundry soap.

© Author: Anna Petrovna BLAZHKO

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Without division worse flowering

Of the chrysanthemums, the Korean variety is the most unpretentious and winter-hardy.. For the site it is better to choose compact low bushes, as tall plants without additional supports quickly fall down.

Предпочтения

The site should be well lit so that the shoots do not stretch and because of this there is no delay in flowering. Flowers do not like excess moisture, so it is better to plant them in an elevated place. But it should be borne in mind that the root system lies superficially, therefore, in dry weather, watering is necessary. And with a lack of moisture, the leaves and flowers become smaller, look unattractive. For the same reason, plants should not be deeply buried when planting - the roots grow parallel to the soil.

Chrysanthemums are very responsive to feeding, nitrogen fertilizers are required at the beginning of growth, and potassium-phosphorus fertilizers are required in the second half of summer.

Crampedness is contraindicated for plants. The optimal distance between the bushes is 40-50 cm, over time they will grow and occupy the entire area provided.

The soil should be loose, moisture permeable and nutritious. On my site it is heavy, loamy, so when planting I introduce peat, sand and slightly rotted manure. Planted in such a ground chrysanthemums grow safely and delight the flowering 3-4 of the year.

Transfer

For several years of observations, I concluded that on average 3, chrysanthemums are better divided and transplanted. Otherwise they grow strongly, their shape deteriorates, sometimes bald spots are formed in the middle. I dig out large bushes, divide it into several parts and plant it in a newly prepared place. It is better to do this in May, so that during the summer the plants will recover, turning into lush bushes.

If the chrysanthemums were transplanted in the fall (but this should be done no later than mid-September), they should be watered well so that there are no voids in the ground through which frost can easily penetrate to the roots. It is desirable to cut the shrubs, leaving no more than a third of the stem, for better adaptation of the root system.

Note

When buying planting material in the fall, look not at the bush itself, but at the roots. They must be powerful with lots of side shoots. If the plants are sold in a pot, pay attention to whether there is a young shoot - this indicates a good quality of the root system. If you really liked the variety, but the roots are weak, you can plant the purchased plant in a pot and keep it in a cool basement until spring.

It is necessary to pour a little bit of humus or peat to these high stumps and cover with pine spruce branches.

Sorts

After several years of studying Korean chrysanthemum, I selected the most unpretentious varieties. I will give a brief description of some of them.

Purple Haze. The bush height is 50 cm, the flower is pink-lilac color in diameter 6 cm. It perfectly tolerates our winters without any shelter. It grows quickly, blooms quite early and retains decorativeness until October.

Opal. This variety is the most beautiful. He has low bushes - 30-40 cm, already in the second half of July they are pleased with large, up to 7-8 cm in diameter, bright yellow flowers. Great for cutting. Winter-hardy and unpretentious, reproduces well. It can be used as a container plant.

Cap Monomakh. The height of the bush is 50-60 cm. The variety is interesting with curly bright red velvet flowers reaching 10 cm in diameter. Early blooms, great winters.

In addition, you should pay attention to varieties Lipstick (dark red flowers), Buzkovsky hedgehog (lilac), Sonechko and Chio-chio-san (yellow), Lyudmila (lilac-pink).

© Author: Alexander V. LUXIN, Mordovia, p. Fir-trees

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Protecting Chrysanthemums

Chrysanthemums, like other plants, are susceptible to disease. But if you know them “in person,” any grower will be able to cope with them without much loss.

Tatyana KOVTUN, collector of chrysanthemums, Arsenyev, Primorsky Krai

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Note: Ukrainian chrysanthemums (Ukrainian selection) - varieties

Chrysanthemum is one of the most common and popular plants in the floriculture of open and protected soil. And no wonder, because it can be used in a landscape design to create flowerbeds, rabatok and borders, grown as a potted plant and cut. This is the most favorite autumn flower, striking the imagination with a variety of shapes and colors, filling the garden with a tart autumn aroma.

Collection of Chrysanthemum Garden National Botanical Garden. N.N. Grishko today has 310 cultivars. most of which are on display at the Four Seasons site. This is a real celebration of color! More than 200 varieties of garden chrysanthemum were planted on the site, 50 of which were bred by the breeders of the botanical garden Lyudmila Ignatievna Zavidova and Vasily Fedorovich Gorobets. These varieties are adapted to local soil and climatic conditions. They are characterized by winter hardiness, drought tolerance, resistance to diseases and pests.

But most importantly, they are characterized by high decorative qualities: a clean, bright color of inflorescences, abundant flowering before frost. At the exposition site, cultivars with various forms of inflorescences (simple, semi-double, anemone, terry, pompon, arachnid, needle, tubular), with various forms of the bush (thyroid, columnar, pyramidal) are presented. The height of plants ranges from 30 cm to 120 cm. The color of inflorescences differs in a wide range of colors and shades: from white, pink to dark lilac, from yellow, orange to rich red and burgundy.

The most popular are compact varieties that form floral "balls."

Novelties of selection of NBS them. N.N. Grishko: Ukranochka, Two Colors, Mother Polonina, Papa, Autumn Melody, Caucasian Polonyanka, Charivny Dream, Podarunok Queen's Signet, Soup, Kozachka, Monomakh Cap, Amazonian Tavernica, Vespers Symphony, Miracle Arlemye Ronjam, Sonny , Stepvanka, Ukrainian Serpanok.

On a fine autumn day, take a look at the botanical garden to admire the flowering of chrysanthemums. They are truly gorgeous!

Two colors

The bush is erect, 50 — 60 cm high. The inflorescences are semi-double, with a diameter of 5 cm, two-tone, yellow-red. The use is universal.

Mother's Memory

The bush is erect, 100 — 120 cm high. The inflorescences are anemone, light purple, with a diameter of 9 — 10 cm. Designed for cutting.

Mountain meadow

The bush is erect, 100 — 120 cm high. Terry inflorescences, orange, with a diameter of 8 — 9 cm. Designed for cutting.

Pope

The bush is compact, spherical, 50 — 60 high. See Terry inflorescences, rich red, with a diameter of 8. Use is universal.

Autumn melody

The bush is compact, spherical, 50 — 60 high. See Terry inflorescences, orange, 8 in diameter. Use is universal.

Charivne's Dream

The bush is erect, 80-90 high, see. The inflorescences are anemone, lilac, with a diameter of 6 cm. They are used for cutting.

Caucasian Polonyanka

The bush is compact, spherical, 60 — 70 high. Cm. Terry inflorescences, pink-raspberry, diameter 5 — 6 cm.

Gingerbread Autumn

The bush is erect, 80-90 high, see Terry inflorescences, pink, 10 in diameter. Designed for cutting.

Signet of the Queen

The bush is erect, 70 — 80 high, see anemone-shaped inflorescences. orange with a pink tint, 6 cm in diameter. Designed for cutting.

Amazonian Taynitsya

The bush is erect, 60 — 70 cm high. Terry inflorescences, dark purple, with a diameter of 7 cm. Designed for cutting.

Evening symphony

The bush is compact, with a height of 50 — 55 cm. The inflorescences are semi-double, radiant, dark lilac, with a diameter of 7 cm. Designed for landscaping.

Miracle Harlequin

The bush is erect, 90 — 100 cm high. The inflorescences are semi-double, red with an orange lining, 10 — 11 cm in diameter. Designed for cutting.

Sonya Promin

The bush is erect, 70 — 80 cm high. Terry inflorescences, radiant, yellow, with a diameter of 8 cm. Designed for cutting.

Sutinki

The bush is compact, 40 — 45 high, see Terry inflorescences. dark purple, with a diameter of 7 cm. Designed for use in landscaping, cultivation in pot culture.

Kozachka

The bush is erect, 60 — 70 high. See Terry inflorescences, red, with a diameter of 7 — 8. Use is universal.

Monomah's Hat

The bush is erect, 80 — 90 cm high. Terry inflorescences, red with an orange lining, 8 diameter cm. Designed for cutting.

Ranked Mirage

The bush is compact, 50-55 high, see. The inflorescences are anemone, lilac-pink, with a diameter of 6 see. Universal use.

Vesernevy Bicep

The bush is compact, spherical, 40-45 high, see. Inflorescences are semi-double, reed flowers are spoon-shaped, red-yellow, with a diameter of 6 cm. They are intended for use in landscaping, cultivation in pot culture.

Stetvchanka

The bush is compact, erect, 50 — 55 cm high. Terry inflorescences, needle, brick-orange, with a diameter of 7 — 8 cm. Designed for landscaping.

Ukrainian Serpanok

The bush is compact, spherical, 40-45 high, see. Inflorescences are semi-double, reed flowers are spoon-shaped, red-yellow, with a diameter of 8 cm. They are intended for use in landscaping, cultivation in pot culture.

© Author: Lyudmila ZAVIDOVA. Department of Floral Ornamental Plants NBS N. N. Grishko

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CHRISTIANS - SHARE OR SOW?

Many people know that chrysanthemums are propagated by dividing the bush and layering.

But there is another way - growing with seeds. How laborious is it and what are its advantages and disadvantages?

Looking for a middle ground

Seeds allow you to grow both annuals and perennials. Many flower growers choose this method because sowing directly to the flowerbed is quite simple. At the same time, chrysanthemums can only be seen by the end of summer, and if we are talking about annual plants, then we will not be able to enjoy their flowering. That is why sowing should be chosen if it is planned to settle on the garden plot only perennial chrysanthemums.

We prepare a place for landing

It is necessary to prepare a place where they will grow. And they do it at the end of spring after the cold recedes. In the south, this is done in April, later in regions with more severe climates.

Before sowing, you need to water the plot, and then make shallow pits every 30 cm. The seeds themselves are laid on the soil and buried by 1 cm.

In one hole there can be no more than three seeds, after which they are covered with earth and covered with a film. Remove it when shoots appear. This usually happens in a month.

Next - care, as for many flowering plants in the garden: watering, fertilizing, loosening the soil, weed control. As soon as the seedlings release three leaves each, you need to leave the strongest in the hole, and remove two, replanting to a new place.

We grow seedlings

If you need to grow seedlings (especially annuals need this), do so. Take a box, the depth of which is not more than 6 cm, and fill it with prepared soil. Seeds are placed on the surface of the soil every 3 cm.

For growing seedlings, glasses of sour cream or yogurt are also suitable, in which three seeds are planted. Top cover with soil 1 cm layer. And after these "flower beds" are watered and covered with a plastic bag.

If the air warms up to 20 degrees, the first sprouts will appear by the end of the month. As soon as this happens, the film is peeled off. At this time, the bare soil begins to evaporate moisture faster, and it is necessary to water the plantings so that they do not wither. And before that, it is imperative to loosen the soil. So the roots can breathe and grow quickly.

Since the seedlings need good lighting, when planted in March, it will be enough light, and in February it will have to light up at least half a day.

Feed according to the scheme

And, of course, it is worth feeding the future chrysanthemums correctly. Since the one-year-old plants have a shorter growing season, they need more fertilizer. Nitrogen helps to grow stems, give a large number of shoots, it gives the leaves a bright green color, and inflorescences the color characteristic of this variety. If this component is lacking, the leaves turn yellow in chrysanthemums - this is a sign of chlorosis. In early spring, seedlings are fed with nitrogen in ammonia form, and at the stage of budding - in nitrate form.

After transplanting into the open ground, when the plant forms a powerful bush, it requires phosphorus and potassium.

This helps to bloom intensively and continuously, strengthens their immunity.

Superphosphate is added at 50 g per 1 square. m area with the addition of bone meal and 15-20 g of potassium sulfate.

Note

Chrysanthemums are very fond of warmth, which dictates the choice of the place of their "residence" on the site. For planting flowers in spring, you need a hill that is perfectly lit by the rays of the sun, a permeable soil that has a slightly acidic or neutral reaction.

© Author: Maria Antonovna Dudnik

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ROOTING THE NDI CHRYSANTHEMA FROM A BOUQUET

My experiment on rooting Indian chrysanthemums from a bouquet was a success - this season all the bushes bloomed magnificently.

Last fall, I cut cuttings 10-12 cm long from the stems that were in the gift composition. I left 2-3 upper leaves on them, and removed the rest.

She filled plastic cups with a volume of 0,3-0,4 liters with loose garden soil.

I dipped each stalk in water, then in Kornevin powder and planted it in containers. Gently compacted the soil around the plants.

She covered the cups with plastic bags to create a greenhouse effect.

I put the chrysanthemums in a warm (+ 20-25 degrees) place. As needed, she watered with settled clean water at room temperature, regularly ventilated.

After about a month, it became clear which specimens had taken root - only 2 out of 5 cuttings formed roots.

You can cut and root a chrysanthemum from a bouquet at any time of the year, but it is better to plant it in open ground in spring. Therefore, for the winter, she carefully moved the pets with roots into large pots filled with garden soil, and set them to wait for the start of the season in a warmed loggia closer to the window (chrysanthemums like diffused lighting, direct sunlight only harms them).

In May, when the threat of recurrent frosts had passed, she planted the bushes in the flower garden. Unlike the capricious rose, which is more difficult to grow from a bouquet, these "golden" flowers are more hardy and successful.

© Author: Alla ROMANOVA, Smolensk region.

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PEST CHRISANTEM

I will show you how to deal with pests that can attack chrysanthemums during the season.

aphid

The ubiquitous aphid settles in whole colonies on the underside of the leaves, sucking out cell sap from plants. As a result, the shoots develop poorly, the buds dry up without even blooming.

The preparation "Aktellik, EC" (10 ml / 10 l of water) will save chrysanthemums from aphids. In addition, you can use "BI-58 new, EC" (20 ml / 10 l of water), "Karate, EC" (1-1,5 ml / 10 l of water).

Slobbery penny (leafhopper)

The leafhoppers also feed on plant sap. Their bites form small yellow spots on the leaves. Inflorescences of affected chrysanthemums are deformed. To cope with the invasion of the slobbering penny will help the treatment with "Karate, EC" (1-1,5 ml / 10 l of water).

Chrysanthemum nematode

Perhaps this is the most insidious pest. A tiny thin worm is very difficult to notice, but its "work" can be seen with the naked eye. On the plant, pale yellow spots appear in foci, which eventually increase in size and turn brown. Leaves curl and die off, buds do not open, young shoots stop growing. The chrysanthemum wastes away and dies. When such signs appear, you can spray the plantings with a solution of "Heterophos" (according to the instructions), but if the treatment did not help, the affected bushes need to be dug out and burned, and green manure should be sown in their place.

IMPORTANT!

Most often, nematodes enter the site along with diseased seedlings and cuttings, so purchase new plants only from trusted growers and nurseries with a good reputation.

© Author: Olga ORLOVA, p. Verkh-Chumanka, Altai Territory

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NOTE: CHRYSANTHUS DISEASES IN THE TABLE

NAME	SIGNS	HOW TO GET RID
Rust	Above the leaves appear yellowish-green small spots, below - convex pustules from a light yellow shade to pink. Outwardly, the symptoms of the disease resemble a burn. Often the leaves curl downward, die off. Rust is more common in warm and humid weather	Collect and burn affected leaves. Feed the bushes with phosphorus-potassium fertilizer. Treat with Fundazol (according to the instructions) and 1% colloidal sulfur
Root bacterial cancer	Growths form on the root collar or on the stem. The disease is not cured, it is transmitted through the soil	Dig up and burn diseased plants, and it is advisable to pickle the soil with formalin (150 g / 10 l of water / 3-4 mXNUMX). Prevention: soil drainage, autumn digging, removal of plant residues
Leaf spot, or septoria	Brownish-black spots appear on the leaves, then merge into one, and small black dots are foci of spores of the fungus. Leaves turn yellow, dry up and fall off	Burn the affected leaves. During top dressing, increase the dose of potassium-phosphorus fertilizers. Treat with Bordeaux or copper-soapy liquid. Also suitable are "Fundazol" (30 g), copper oxychloride (50 g), "Kuprozan" (50 g), "Tsineb" (50 g), "Hometsin" (40 g) - for 10 liters of water
Gray mold	Inflorescences rot after the formation of light brown spots. Reasons - thickening, waterlogging, excess nitrogen or increased acidity of the soil	Lime the soil with slaked lime or ash. Prophylactically, once every 1 to 5 days, treat with copper-containing preparations, according to the instructions. If the bush is badly damaged, it is destroyed

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WHAT ARE CHRYSANTHEMAS

Huge balls of chrysanthemums are simply mesmerizing. Every time I admired them on the market, I thought about trying to grow the same flowers on my own. And I did it.

Of course, I had to arm myself with knowledge. I read a lot of materials about this plant and found out that the cultivation of spherical chrysanthemum, or multiflora, is no different from the agricultural technology of other groups of this plant.

Flowers are low-growing (from 20 to 30 cm), medium-sized (from 30 to 40 cm), as well as tall (up to 70 cm). Early varieties have been bred, which bloom in August, middle ones - in September and late ones - in October.

Early varieties blooming in August include:

• Sunbeam coral. It has coral flowers with a bush height of 40 cm.
• Amor Dark Pink. Pink flowers 4 cm in diameter.
• Meridian Dark. The flowers are small, only 3 cm in diameter, with a burgundy color.

Varieties with the main flowering time in September include:

• Branroyal Yellow. The height of this variety reaches 70 cm, the color of the flowers is yellow.
• Branchili. Bush 40 cm with brown flowers 4 cm.
• San Remo Runner. Flower diameter -5 cm, white petals at the edges, red core. The bush is medium-sized.

Late flowering chrysanthemums include such popular varieties as:

• Pepita. Height up to 50 cm. The color of the flowers is white-yellow.
• Baton Rose. The cultivar is profusely blooming, with very small flowers, similar to a pink ball.
• Stavisky White. Medium-sized variety with pale white flowers.

Council

Every spring, it is advisable to divide the chrysanthemum bushes. This will allow not only to multiply the plants, but also to rejuvenate the planting. Usually in early April - late May, the uterine bush gives young growth, depending on its size, it is divided into one, two or three parts.

LANDING PLACE

The globular chrysanthemum will flower well in rich, loose and permeable soil. Since this is a light-loving plant, you need to choose a well-lit place for it. If the flower lacks sunlight, it will begin to stretch, lose its decorative effect.

CARE AND FEEDING

It is also important to form plants at an early stage of development without fail - to pinch the top of the shoot above the 5-6th leaf. But you shouldn't touch your stepchildren.

To properly feed these flowers, you need to consider some subtleties. In particular, fill the soil. If it is poor, then the recharge is done with infusion of mullein or chicken droppings twice, but only at the initial stage of development.

When buds begin to form, the chrysanthemum will need potassium-phosphorus fertilizers at the rate of: 20 g of superphosphate and potassium chloride per 10 liters of water, consumption - 2 liters per 1 sq. m. At the same time, excessive use of fertilizers leads to foliage growth and poor flowering.

Since chrysanthemum multiflora is a moisture-loving plant, in the hot summer it needs to be watered every other day. In addition, these flowers thrive if the humidity is 50%. For this, containers with water are placed next to the plants.

AUTUMN CARE

At the end of flowering (late October - early November), the aerial part is cut off at a level of 10 cm from the ground and sprayed with Bordeaux liquid. Then they construct a frame of boards over the plants, on which they throw insulating material - artificial or natural. In regions with a harsh climate, chrysanthemums are transplanted into pots and kept cool. It is important that the room is sufficiently humid, otherwise the roots of the plant may dry out and die.

© Author: Valentina Mikhailovna SMETANINA, amateur florist

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CHRYSANTHEMA: CARE

© Author: Zoya KOZHEVNIKOVA

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