9 Review (s)

  1. Summerman, gardener and gardener (anonymous)

    When examining raspberry bushes, pay special attention to swellings found on the stems. This is the first sign that the larvae of the stem gall midge have settled there. Such bushes must be urgently removed from the site, no matter how sorry.

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  2. Vera TROFIMOVA. Volgograd region

    How I smoke pests

    To destroy various pests (moth, aphids) on the gooseberry, I cover the bushes with a thick plastic wrap, put a smoker with a dry mixture of mint and tobacco under it, and fumigate the plants for 15-20 minutes. The procedure can be repeated after a couple of days. Pests die quickly.

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  3. Irina ISAEVA, doctor of science

    For black currants and gooseberries (if not done in March), trim the tops of the shoots affected by powdery mildew in the previous year. They are clearly visible now - curved, weakened. Cut them off by grabbing 2 to 3 cm of a healthy branch.
    If the currant bushes are severely damaged by a kidney mite (you will see the buds in the form of unnaturally swollen heads of cabbage), it is advisable to uproot the plants and burn them.

    But you can do otherwise: cut the above-ground part to the base, leaving only the lower branches. Bend the latter to the ground and cover with soil 10-15 cm. In the buds that are underground, the tick does not develop, cannot pass into new buds and damage them. Therefore, healthy shoots will go from the soil, which will quickly take root, feeding on the old powerful uterine root. But this method of healing the bushes is used only if the plants, even with severe damage by the kidney mite, do not show signs of terry (when the number of petals on the flowers increases, the flowers themselves are pinkish or purple, the smell specific to currant leaves disappears).

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  4. Anna Baranchik, Saratov Region

    The bushes of black currant are damaged by mites. I tried folk remedies, but there is no effect. What to do?

    Reply
    • OOO "Sad"

      - The tick is so well hidden in the currant buds that even contact chemicals can not cope with it, let alone folk methods. Choose insect-acaricidal preparations of systemic action - for example, Actellik (15 ml per 10 L of water), Novaktion (20 ml per 10 l), Karate Zeon (5 ml per 10 l). From biopreparations come Fitoverm (30 ml on 10 l of water), Akarin (30 ml on 10 l). The first treatment is in the middle-end of April, when the kidneys actively swell. After 10-15 days, before the flowering, sprinkle again, but with another preparation. After flowering in dry weather and air temperature not below + 18 degrees, in addition to the above pesticides, you can apply Fitoverm and Akarin at an interval of 7-10 days.

      If there are a lot of mites on the bush, but the plant is powerful, in October cut off all the shoots to the ground, cover the soil surface with peat, and in the spring, as the shoots grow, sprinkle one of the drugs against ticks during the swelling and budding period.
      Old bushes with a weak growth is best removed from the site and burned. Plant healthy seedlings.

      Reply
  5. Alexander Gaydukov, Bryansk

    Last summer, gooseberries dropped leaves in August.

    What happened? Damage to the plant did not notice ...

    Reply
    • OOO "Sad"

      It is difficult to put an accurate "diagnosis" without the photo, the name of the variety, the indication of specific soil conditions.

      Drought is immediately eliminated, as the summer was cool, with enough rainfall. Due to lack of any element or root inhibition, plant nutrition is disturbed, with the leaves often changing color to yellow, and if the roots "choke" on waterlogging - to red, which is difficult not to notice.
      There remains the defeat of leaves with fungal diseases. It is unlikely that it is powdery mildew: you would notice a white mealy plaque not only on the leaves, but also on the fruits.

      I will assume that your bushes are affected by anthracnose or septoriosis (and the symptoms of the disease were simply not noticeable - dark spots, spots, plaque on the leaves).
      Control measures
      1. Before bud blossoming, spray plants with a solution of copper sulfate (300 g per 10 L of water) or iron (400-500 g per 10 L of water).
      2. If you did not have time, then before flowering, treat the bushes with a solution of Bordeaux fluids (100 g per 10 L of water) or any fungicide of systemic action. After harvesting, repeat the treatment.
      3. Fungal diseases develop with thickening of the bush. Therefore, in the early spring, before blossoming buds, necessarily thin out the plants.

      Reply
  6. Tatyana OVSEEVA, Bryansk

    Narrow-bodied goldfish is one of the most dangerous pests for currants, because the habitat and breeding of this bug are shoots of shrubs.
    From May to August, the zlatka lays eggs, choosing hard-to-reach places on the branches, which are located mainly on the southern side of the bush. Yellow-white caterpillars appear after 15 days after laying eggs. They gnaw through the cortex and wood and move for the time of development inside the currant branches. After this introduction, shoots begin to ache and dry. Caterpillars hibernate there. In May they pupate, and soon a new generation of the zlatka appears.
    To prevent the onslaught of the pest, you need to carefully examine the shrub. Affected branches can be seen immediately - they are stunted, poorly developed. They need to be cut and burned. Spraying currants after flowering with chlorophosomes or kalbofos emulsion, based on 30 g of chlorophos or karbofos per 10 l of water, will not hurt.

    The more developed and healthy the bush, the more resistant it is to pests. Therefore, the state of the plant must be monitored constantly. Be sure to cut old and dry branches, thin out young shoots - goldfish loves young branches very much because of the soft and pliable bark.

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  7. Vadim SHUBNIKOV, Tolyatti city

    To prepare a remedy against caterpillars, slugs and other pests, I take about 300 g of hot pepper, cut into smaller pieces, pour 3 l of water and keep on fire about 1 h under the lid. Then leave the broth for a day or two.

    Before pouring it on bottles for storage, carefully grate the pepper with a pestle and strain the liquid. I store bottles with decoction in a cellar.
    Before processing the vegetables from the pests, pour into the 10-liter bucket of about 2 / 3 a glass of broth and mix with water. If the pests attacked a tree or a bush, I poured a full glass of broth into the bucket.
    With periodic processing of plantings with pepper broth pests there are not delayed.

    Reply

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