Growing winter hardy rhododendrons - planting and care, varieties and description

It is necessary to recognize that, as much as the Rhododendrons are magnificent in their magnificent beauty, they are not so simple in culture. Unfortunately, very often the desire to visit them in the garden is a failure. PLANTS REFUSE THE FLOWERS, FILL UP ON THE SPRING SUN, DUMP ON THE ROOT.

BUT IF TO KEEP THE "KEYS" REQUIRED TO THEM, SUCCESS WILL BE GUARANTEED. WHAT IS IT NECESSARY TO KNOW ABOUT RODODENDRONS AND HOW TO ACT, GETTING SUCCESS?

First of all, remember that the rhododendron and its azalea relative to the heather family are acidophilous plants, that is, lovers of acidic soils (pH 3,5 - 5,5). And it says everything, this is the key word. This is what determines the rules of planting and feeding, the requirements for the composition of the soil substrate, the strict choice of neighbors.

In addition, rhododendrons are extremely sensitive to the conditions of growth, more precisely - to temperature and humidity. They are mountain plants, representatives of the alpine and subalpine flora growing in the mountains, mostly at an altitude from 500 to 2000 m. They need a cool climate, increased air humidity of alpine meadows where clouds cling to the ground and frequent fogs are observed.

Unfortunately, the Russian continental climate with low winter temperatures, scorching winds and hot summers is not for them - they will rather prefer European conditions with their short and mild winters, rainy and humid summers, autumn fogs. Therefore - they grow well in the Baltics, Finland, Germany, Belgium and the Netherlands, in Poland. And here - in the Kaliningrad region and in the vicinity of Petersburg on the Karelian Isthmus. Well, in England, they generally found their second home.

We, in the middle zone of Russia, not to mention the Urals or Siberia, still have to contrive to provide these plants with more or less suitable conditions similar to those they need: spray on hot summer days, create an artificial "fog" pritenyat from the withering sun in the spring and protect from the winter winds and frosts. Most rhododendrons need a good winter shelter, although in Europe they hibernate without any adaptations.

Since most of the natural forms of rhododendrons are inhabitants of mountain regions, they grow on rocky soils and stony placers, which provides them with good drainage. The thickets of these plants are most often found on the northern slopes, which saves them from the bright mountain sun. In other places, they hide in the penumbra of pines, larch, juniper or cedar elfin. Therefore, when cultivating rhododendrons, it is necessary to provide all the necessary conditions in which they exist in nature. If you want to plant these handsome men in your garden, be kind enough to organize for them a quality drainage, acidic soil substrate environment, moist air (due to support), shading from bright spring and midday sun - as well as the corresponding neighbors.

BUY RODODENDRON - WHAT AND HOW?

When buying rhododendrons and azaleas do not give in to spontaneous decisions, guided only by the impulse, like or dislike the shade of flowers. In garden centers, these plants usually come in spring in a flowering state, in an effective form. It is understandable that seeing such beauty, it is difficult to resist buying. But you risk acquiring a cat in a poke.

As a rule, plants are supplied by European nurseries of Germany, the Netherlands or Poland. Although they "come" in pots with ZKS, this does not guarantee a high quality of planting material (which can be dried during a long journey and improper storage conditions). Therefore, when buying, you need to make sure that the root system is OK, the roots are not blackened and have a live appearance.

Roots should be light brown in color, with white tips (by no means black). The lump must be braided; it is desirable that it can be seen thin threads of mycorrhizas - mycelium, which is in symbiosis with the roots of rhododendron and promotes the normal assimilation of nutrients.

Ask the seller to remove the plant from the pot to make sure that everything is in order. A vigorous appearance does not mean anything: the rhododendron does not immediately react to the ruined root system. There should be no stains on the leaves, the bark - without mold, the root neck - without white coating and damage.

Going to the garden center or ordering plants on the Internet, the buyer should be prepared for such a responsible step as buying a rhododendron. Given the high cost of seedlings, this should be approached as responsibly as possible. It is worth knowing at least the group to which this or that specimen belongs (deciduous, semi-evergreen, evergreen), its variety and origin (species or hybrid), azalea it or "real" rhododendron, adult size (there are dwarf plants, and there are giants), speed with growth and expansion in breadth, parameters of winter hardiness. Not always this information will be available to you in the garden center.

FOR THE NOTICE

Count stamens to distinguish azalea from rhododendron! The first has 5, the second - 10. It is important that azalea is a deciduous plant that is better adapted to our harsh winters. Rhododendrons are deciduous, semi-evergreen (drop leaves after flowering) and evergreen, which just give the gardener the most trouble. And azaleas usually have flowers of yellow, orange or bright red colors. In rhododendrons, it is more diverse - from white, pink, purple, lavender to purple and purple.

Experienced gardeners and connoisseurs of culture in choosing seedlings give priority to supplies from Germany and Poland, but the quality of Dutch plants is usually questioned. Praised and varieties of Finnish breeding (as the most hardy and suitable for our winters). Successes in this direction have also been achieved by Latvian breeders.

Beginners should not begin immediately with the acquisition of a large number of landing units - first you need to understand the nature of a particular plant, like rhododendron, so to speak, practice, observe. If everything works out as it should - then only expand the collection.

In this case, it is necessary to worry in advance about the color harmony of the acquired plants, their compatibility in width and growth. A common mistake is planting next to each other varieties, which greatly expand in breadth. In many rhododendrons, the width of the bush (do not forget that it is shrubs!) Is twice as high as its height. When planning planting, you need to have these circumstances in mind, so that you do not disturb plants with transplants later on. In addition, it is necessary to find out the terms of flowering, which, with a competent selection of varieties, allows you to extend the decorative season to one and a half months.

Experts advise to purchase three-year (deciduous) or five-year (evergreen) seedlings: usually at this age there are rapid growth of shoots and the first full flowering.

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See also:  Pruning rhododendrons from A to Z (photo)

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RODODENRON'S PLATING

When choosing a landing site, it is important to know that as neighbors of rhododendrons, trees with a superficial root system should be avoided, the closeness of which will be inhibited by rhododendrons. First of all, these are birches, aspens, spruce, maples and chestnuts. This applies to lilac bushes, whose roots work as a pump, depriving surrounding plants of the necessary moisture. The best companions of rhododendrons are pine and oak, trees with a rod root system. Especially - pine, as mycorrhiza, living on the roots of pine, comes into symbiosis with the root system of rhododendrons. If the rhododendron is planted near buildings, then their north or north-eastern side is preferable. You just need to keep in mind that the roof does not drip during rain and snow does not creep in the spring.

Due to the fact that rhododendrons do not tolerate excessive moisture, the site where 1 is supposed to be planted should be drained, and the groundwater level should be no less than one meter from the surface of the earth.

Wetlands that are flooded and flooded in spring and after rain are completely inadequate for them. A place in the form of an elevated flower bed for a group of plants is advised to cook ahead of time so that the land shrinks. It is better to plant individual specimens on hummocks, so that the root system does not become blocked.

Since rhododendrons have a compact root system, they do not need a spacious pit. Its dimensions can be no more than 40 - 60 cm in diameter depending on the grade, and the depth - to make up two heights of an earthen coma. If your site initially heavily soils, then the pit can be slightly expanded and deepened. At the bottom it is arranged a layer of drainage in 20 cm from broken brick and coarse sand.

The day before planting, the pit should be thoroughly shed, and the rhododendron should be soaked for several hours in the pot, preferably a day in a bucket of water and wait until the air bubbles stop. You can resort to the use of stimulants of root-formation, powdering powder with "Kornevin" or treating it with a solution of potassium humate (all according to the instructions!).

When planting, try not to slip the neck of the plant. Is it dangerous! In this case, the plants refuse to bloom and eventually die. Therefore, let the neck turn out to be on 2 - 4 cm above the ground level, so that it does not suck in when it settles the pit. Then be sure to plant the peat with peat, crushed bark or pine pod over a layer of at least 6 - 8 cm.

Try not to have mulch next to the root neck (which leads to its obstruction). If you have purchased the rhododendron in a flowering state (this happens quite often), then flowers and buds, as if this did not want to be broken. This will give a signal to the plant to lay new kidneys and make it easier and quicker to settle in a new place.

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See also:  Planting of rhododendrons - where and with what: the neighbors and companions of the rhododendron

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SUMMER CARE OF THE RHODODENRON

Summer care is reduced to keeping the soil moist and regularly sprinkled over the leaves. If there is dry weather, it should be watered once a week with soft, steady rain water, preferably slightly acidified (1 a spoonful of citric acid for 10 L of water). The rate of water flow is 2 buckets per adult bush once a week. At the end of the season, it is necessary to provide water-charging irrigation - this is absolutely necessary for a successful wintering.

After flowering it is supposed to break out (and not cut!) The faded inflorescence, to give a place for the formation of new flower buds that will appear by autumn. To do this, keep axillary buds near the upper leaves.

Fertilize properly planted rhododendrons should be only 2 times a season - in April, before flowering and immediately after flowering. Top dressing is recommended to give mainly in a liquid form, when watering - to try, so that the solution does not fall on the neck of the plant, which very sensitive. It is best to use a special chlorine free fertilizer for azaleas and conifers at the rate of 30 g (1 spoon with a slide) per 10l of water. A solution of potassium sulfate, or ammonium sulphate, or superphosphate is also used. Praise fertilizer for rhododendrons "Ferrovit" with high iron content in chelate form.

They at the same time categorically contraindicated manure and mullein solution. In addition, ash, alkalinizing the soil is forbidden. With a lack of magnesium and iron in rhododendrons, chlorosis may develop (when the leaves turn yellow). To avoid this unpleasant phenomenon, apply solutions of acid salts - magnesium sulfate or ferrous sulfate. At the end of summer, fertilizing is not carried out, so as not to provoke the growth of young shoots, which do not overwinter!

Crop the bushes in May: remove old, dry, not overwintered branches, part of young shoots shorten, giving the bush a harmonious shape.

Loose land around the rhododendrons is impossible, since their root system is close to the surface of the earth. All problems of care (weed control, maintenance of optimal soil moisture and nutrition) are addressed through a universal way - mulching. To do this, apply peat, crushed pine bark, pine litter. And if in other cases this method is welcomed, then when caring for rhododendrons it is simply obligatory!

Advice of a specialist

The composition of the soil substrate is ideally: red turf peat (for lack of which one can manage with black peat), garden soil or foliage, compost and coarse sand in the proportion 2: 2: 1: 1 with pine needles and sphagnum moss (20%) . It is good to add a half-decomposed bark or chopped fragments of a semi-decayed pine stump, which can be found in a nearby forest. Not a hitch and a handful of "long-playing" mineral fertilizers. The soil mixture is prepared in a garden wheelbarrow, in which the components are measured in buckets in appropriate proportions; then everything is thoroughly mixed. And then this mixture is filled with planting pits.

WINTER COVERING OF RHODODENRON

Unfortunately, Russian winter is not the best time in the life of most rhododendrons. Many species do not withstand severe frosts, most need winter shelter.

The area of ​​the root neck is usually covered with a thick layer of dry leaves, preferably oak or birch. Usually, this is done after after the earth is seized by frost, so that the neck does not get out (usually not before mid-November). "With a head" cover short alpine dwarfs. So that the leaves are not carried by the wind, a fence of set-k and or lutrasila on a framework of vertically stuck sticks about half a meter in height is made around. On top of specially made of two layers of Lutrasil (60 g / m²). Now such caps of different sizes appeared on sale, which is very convenient when working with both rhododendrons and small coniferous plants, which can thus be protected from icy rain and scorching spring sun.

Higher specimens are bent to the ground, like roses, pegging shoots with special hooks or spearheads, cover with lapnik. Usually this applies to deciduous azaleas, which, dropping the foliage, will winter under snow.

But the biggest misfortune that happens with evergreen and semi-evergreen rhododendrons is spring burning of leaves. This happens because with the root system not functioning, the leaves nevertheless continue to evaporate the moisture. Evergreen rhododendrons try to somehow resist this process by rolling the leaves into a tube.

This should not be frightened: it is a physiological phenomenon that allows the rhododendron to reduce transpiration at subzero temperatures. But this often does not help. With large changes in the night and day temperatures that occur in February and March, so-called sunburns occur, when the leaves burn, shrivel and eventually die from the flower buds laid in the fall.

Therefore, evergreens, wintering with leaves, should be covered from bright sun rays, the effect of which is greatly increased from albedo (reflection of sun rays from the snow cover).

FOR THE NOTICE

Relatively winter-resistant species of rhododendrons: rhododendron daurian, rhododendron catevbinsky, rhododendron Japanese, rhododendron short-horned, rhododendron Smirnov, rhododendron Fortuna, rhododendron Shlippenbach, deciduous rhododendron Canadian, rhododendron pink, rhododendron glutinous, rhododendron Vazeya.

The winter hardiness threshold for most of them is -24 ... -26 C. Varieties of Finnish breeding are also characterized by increased winter hardiness, which should be borne in mind when buying. For example, the variety 'Helsingin Yliopisto' is winter hardy and tolerates frosts down to -35 'C.

For this purpose, special shields made of plywood are manufactured or carcass houses made of roofing materials are used, protecting not only from the sun, but also from withering winter winds. They remove these shelters in the spring in cloudy weather, when the soil completely wakes up and warms up, and the roots system will start to work in the plants. With the onset of sap movement, the signs of freezing gradually disappear, the appearance of the leaves is restored. It is possible to accelerate this process by shedding the earth around plants with warm water (+ 60 ° C).

And if several times in the early spring to sprinkle evergreen specimens with water at room temperature, the leaves will again unfold and take their original shape (provided they have not been damaged by severe frosts).

If the leaves for a long time remain twisted, ripe, completely lost the turgor, then the rhododendron willfully perishes. Hence, during the wintering, an irreversible loss of moisture occurred, and even after thawing the soil the plant is not able to restore the normal for its further life watercourse.

In this case, urgent measures will be required - spraying with simple water or the solution of the "Epin-Extra" immunomodulator (according to the instructions on the package). If this does not help, there's nothing to be done - the plant is doomed. Which of these is the conclusion?

It is better to plant deciduous varieties, they are much simpler and more reliable in culture where severe winters occur.

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Reference by topic:  Rhododendron (photo) - cultivation and species

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THE MOST ... Rododendrons

RODODENDRONS - ONE OF THE MOST BEAUTIFUL SHUSTERS. And far from the most complex in the garden! ESPECIALLY - IN THE NORTH-WEST, WHERE, PROPERLY, AND A LARGE NUMBER OF NATURAL FLORA SPECIES WAS INTRODUCED IN CULTURE ALSO IN THE XIX CENTURY, AND THEN THEY WERE TESTED OUTDOOR UNDERGROUND. OUR PASMURNY,

COOL AND RAINY WEATHER SUITS RODODENDRONS BETTER. AND IT IS ONLY DETAILED TO DO THEM WITH THEM, HOW IMMEDIATELY FALL UNDER THEIR CHARM, AND BEGINS: AND DO NOT PLACE ANYTHING THERE AS SUCH, AND DO NOT TRY THIS THIS GROUP ...

© Author: SVETLANA VORONINA

Claws are bogged down - the whole bird is missing: the garden is filled with rhododendrons to the limit, and they also grow, and quite quickly. The question of my favorite varieties or kinds of rhododendrons caught me, frankly, by surprise. It was necessary to write about the beautiful and stable. And those and others are great, and they are very different, and it's extremely difficult to choose favorites. For example, there are our seedlings of over twenty years of age, who may not be the most beautiful,

but the road is that it was just a small seed, and now the bushes are taller than me. Or, say, rhododendron is rusty. In flowering, it is not the most spectacular, but a champion in sustainability: it can grow in full sun without a shade, dispense with watering, mulching and top dressing, has a dense cushion-shaped crown and a wonderful resinous aroma of foliage. Plus, it’s also pretty good cuttings and gives layering ... Still, I’ll try to choose the most-most.

Rhododendron glutinous

Not once in many years did not miss the flowering in our garden rhododendron sticky. It is deciduous, it grows round, very densely branched bush. Our specimens are about a meter high, and in diameter - larger. Leaves are small, dense, shiny, dark green until late autumn. Flower buds are not so characteristic of growth, as in other deciduous rhododendrons (and all these plants lay them in the current season, that is, in the autumn the bush will announce to you whether it is ready to bloom in spring). It blossoms late, at the end of June. A separate flower is the top of grace: small, with a long tube, sharp tips of petals and far protruding stamens. And when the bush blossoms, it seems that a lace shawl was thrown at him. But this is not all: p. glutinous - one of the most fragrant. The smell is similar, in my opinion, to the aroma of a pinnate clove: thin, slightly sweet.

Variety X. Khachmana

Many of them grow very well in our country, differing especially by long flowering, saturated with flowers (which does not suffer from weather troubles), full inflorescences and a beautiful form of bushes (Nabucco, 'Satomi', Stefanie, Fantastic, Lumina, Schneekrone and many, many others). So, fragrance-series. There are three varieties in it, of which I would especially single out two - Karminduft with ruby ​​red flowers and Juniduft with gently pink. Ruby red is an incorrect definition, but from the "berry" arsenal to pick up one thing is difficult: here the shades and ripe raspberries, and cranberries, and cherries - in general, a very beautiful, rich tone. The bushes are rather tall and wide - about 1,5 m in height and slightly smaller in diameter of the dense crown. Both varieties bloom from the end of June to the middle of July, very fragrant. Good in landing a couple, the first with a blooming pink Juniduft, and after about a week the baton is picked up by Karminduft. Even better, if they are planted in the background, and in front to place the rhododendron gluey - then blossom all three magnificent bouquet, and really smell!

On the whole garden! Another advantage is the beautiful autumn color of the leaves: with decreasing temperature they acquire wine-red and orange-purple hues, standing out against the background of the common autumn purple of the garden.

FOR THE NOTICE

Rhododendron adhesive is quite actively used and is now used in hybridization. I most like the varieties with his participation, received in Germany by Hans Hahmann at the beginning of the 2000-ies; in the title they have the word Duft ("aroma").

Evergreen Rhododendrons - Special Feature

Evergreen rhododendrons are more complex in the garden than deciduous ones, because they require protection from the early spring sun: under its rays the leaves evaporate moisture, and the roots in the frozen earth do not work yet, and the rhododendron "burns" (the leaves dry up). Well, if the natural shade is natural - the crowns near the trees located protect the bush.

But there is another danger - the root system of the neighbors-defenders should not be aggressive, since the rhododendron will successfully survive the competition and in the struggle for moisture and nutrition will inevitably suffer. So choosing a place in the garden for an evergreen rhododendron is not the easiest task. It should be windless, shaded and free of potential "offenders". As for winter hardiness, there are many varieties that can tolerate our winters without damage and blossom well every year.

In particular, these are varieties of Finnish breeding. We have already experienced well over a dozen, and I would single out two of them (I would like more, but it will not fit into the article). And I do not even know what I like more - Haaga or Helsinki University. Both are pink, light, the color is hilarious, without a lilac shade, the Haaga is only a little bit brighter, and then it is noticeable if they are planted nearby. Both are characterized by rapid growth, strong shoots and a beautiful smooth bush form - Haaga lower, about 150-160 cm in height, slightly less than the crown, and Helsinki University - 180 cm and 1,5 meters in diameter. Blossom at the same time, in our parts blossom approximately 10 June. At this time, the bushes look like luxurious pink hills. If we compare them with the old guard of the rhododendron varieties of the Ketevbinskii - 'Roseum Elegans', 'Grandiflorum', 'Boursault' and others - then, with full reliability and excellent winter hardiness, both in plus Finnish varieties a more durable and compact bush will go, and in the possible minus - a shorter duration of flowering. What is the correct conclusion? Yes, we must put both, and others.

Evergreen rhododendrons are very different. Among them there are very small creatures, miniature varieties with flowers of heavenly color, and the sky is Himalayan; it is there, in the mountains of Tibet, their parents grow - rhododendron dense, rhododendron equal, p. blushing and others. They are very good, many are quite resistant, and the varieties do better in the garden than species.

For example, baby 'Ronny'. The bush is covered with small bluish leaves, about 40 cm in height and about 50 cm in diameter. Blossoms in the middle of May, in the afternoon the flowers are purple, and in the evening they are blue. In my opinion, such varieties are best planted in groups, choosing a place that is bright but cool (like the northern slope, the northern terrace).

It looks extremely impressive when during flowering the shades of blue, lilac, lavender merge together, and the whole group resembles an open jewelry box: here are sapphires, and alexandrites, and amethysts ...

Yakushiman rhododendrons

Grades of medium size in the group of evergreens also exist. This so-called rhododendrons yakushimanskie (varieties obtained with participation Rh. degronianum subsp. yakushimanum). They bloom somewhat earlier than their tall cousins ​​and develop dense cushion-shaped shrubs with very dense and beautiful foliage. Attractive young shoots, covered with dense pubescence. One of the most beautiful, in my opinion, varieties - Fantastic. The crown is perfectly regular round-shaped, uniformly dense, the leaves are dark green, and the flowers are both bright and tender.

Cultivating the varieties of this group, it is worth bearing in mind that they are photophilous. When planted with substantial shading, they lose their remarkable compactness and density of the crown and cease to bloom. But even in full sun, I would not put them either: it is desirable that they are at least slightly covered from the brightest of the midday rays.

FINNISH RHODODENRONES

© Author: Maria Davydova

The works related to obtaining winter-hardy varieties started back in 1973, and they were conducted at the Botany Department of Helsinki University. These works were led by Peter Tigerstedt. The goal of breeding scientists was to create such varieties of rhododendron that could grow in not the most simple climate of Finland.

For the basis was taken one species rhododendron - short rhododendron. He got into the oldest and largest dendrological park in Finland - Arboretum Mustila - from North Korea in 1931 year. In the process of breeding new varieties, 14 000 specimens were collected, which were planted all over Finland, in different parts of the country, and were monitored for 13 years. During this time, the plants survived several severe winters, a number of seedlings perished, but in the end there were only the most persistent! Today we will talk about those varieties that seem to us the most promising.

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See also:  Rhododendrons (photo) - flower care and planting

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HIGH-SALTED VEGETABLES

'Helsingin Yliopisto'

This fairly hardy variety is known to us under the name 'Helsinky University. It has pale pink flowers with small orange dots. Leaves with a waxy coating, shiny, rich green with a reddish tinge. The bush is more than 2 m high, erect. The variety is named after the 350th anniversary of the University of Helsinki.

'Mikkeli'

This variety got its name in honor of the city of Mikkeli; he, as well as the previous one, belongs to a group of high varieties and reaches a height of 2 m. The buds of this rhododendron are pink; revealing, they become lighter, and the fully opened flowers are white. The leaves are dark green, with the lower side - with a silvery pubescence.

'PMA Tigerstedt'

This tall, straight-growing variety is named after Professor Tigerstedt. He has large, spectacular flowers, they are almost white, with tiny burgundy specks, and dark green, pubescent leaves. The flowers are very large, extremely spectacular, almost pure white, with burgundy specks. If there is a hot, arid weather, may suffer from a lack of moisture, so in such periods requires regular watering.

MIDDLE SILTS

Axel Tigerstedt

This variety in height reaches about 1,5 m, the bushes form a beautiful rounded shape. Flowers have a slightly pinkish tinge. The tips of the young shoots are covered with white nap and somewhat resemble lilies.

Eino

This variety grows to a height of up to 1,5-1,6 m. The bushes do not form very thick, they expand much more rapidly than they do in height. Flowers of beautiful purple-pink color, with a crab on the petals of the perianth. The leaves are similar to the leaves of the species r. the Catebian. It dissolves in the first half of June.

Unlike most varieties, it normally tolerates a lack of moisture in the soil.

Haaga

This is a fairly well-known variety in Russia. It reaches a height of up to 1,5 m. The bushes are erect, beautifully rounded. The flowers are deep pink, with specks, collected in large brushes. They are somewhat similar to the flowers of the variety 'Helsingin Yliopisto'. The leaves are beautiful, shiny, dark green. It blooms quite late in the second half of June. Flowering is plentiful.

Hellikki

The variety in height reaches 1,3 m. The bush forms a beautiful, rounded shape. It grows slowly. Flowers are beautiful, dark, lilac-reddish. On top of the leaves are dark green, from below - with grayish pubescence, the same pile is present in young shoots, and in buds. Dissolves in June, and abundant, spectacular flowering lasts about 2 weeks. It suffers from a bright early spring sun, so it is better to choose areas in the penumbra.

Mauritz

In height, this variety reaches about 1,3 m. It forms stocky, erect bushes. Flowers are bell-shaped, bright red. Buds and leaf buds are also red. Leaves are not large, dark green. It's early blooming. It is best to feel yourself on the plots in the penumbra, protected from the wind. Poorly tolerates a lack of soil moisture, therefore in hot, dry periods it must be watered.

LOW-SOLVED GRADE

Raisa

This variety grows to a height of only 70 cm. It forms dense rounded bushes. The flowers are small, bright, purple-red, somewhat resembling a completely opened bell in shape. The leaves are long, slightly rounded, saturated green, with the lower side - with lighter veins.

Kullervo

The height reaches 1 m. The bushes are rounded, thick, well branching. Buds - red, blossoming flowers - snow-white. Blossoms in June, flower brushes - dense, rounded. Young leaves are covered with light pile.

Pohjolan Tytar

This variety grows to a height of a meter, and to a width of up to 4 m. It can be used as a ground cover plant. His bushes dense branched almost from the root, so it is suitable for creating a low hedge. The buds of this rhododendron are lilac-red, the flowers are large, the same color as the blossom, but later becomes lighter and becomes almost white. It dissolves in early summer.

Venla

This variety has the most flexible branches from all low-growing varieties of Finnish selection. In height, it reaches about a meter. The bushes are beautiful, regular rounded, thick. Flowers are bright pink, slightly drooping. The leaves are dark green. Dissolves in early June.

11 FACTS ABOUT RODODENDRON

RODODENDRON - EFFECTIVE, BUT NOT THE MOST SIMPLE SHUSTER, WHICH WITH VARIABLE SUCCESS IS GROWING IN THE CONDITIONS OF THE MIDDLE STRIP OF RUSSIA. BUT, Despite all the difficulties of its cultivation, florists all the same want to see this handsome in their gardens

1. Some types of rhododendrons are real trees that can reach up to 30 m in height.

2. Many species of rhododendron are poisonous (pollens and nectar of rhododendron contain the toxic substance of andromedotoxin, it first excites the nervous system, then - it depresses it).

3. Honey, obtained from the flowers of some species of rhododendron, has a hallucinogenic and laxative properties. The ancient Greeks and Romans were familiar with its side effects. Although honey of most species does not have such an effect, its peculiarity is a tart taste.

4. Red rhododendron woody - a national flower of Nepal.

5. In Nepal, the rhododendron is used in the form of juice from petals, and in his food they use marinated flowers.

6. Rhododendrons are distributed mainly in the Northern Hemisphere, from the Arctic latitudes to the tropics.

7. Labrador tea is also a rhododendron. It produces essential oils that are used as an anti-inflammatory, antiviral and diuretic.

8. Rhododendron - a real long-liver. Despite the fact that the majority of representatives of this genus - shrubs (and the age of most shrubs is short), they can live to 100 years.

9. The name of the plant comes from the Greek words rhodon ("rose") and dendron ("tree"), and it turns out that the rhododendron is a "rose tree".

10. In the East, the rhododendron is a symbol of women's attractiveness.

11. Sprigs of wild rosemary, which very often in the early spring are sold in the grandmother's transitions and which need to be put into the water to make them bloom, is also a rhododendron.

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Reference by topic:  Rhododendrons - planting and care, photo varieties

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RODODENRON IN THE DESIGN OF THE GARDEN

RODODENRON AND AZALIA AS ANYWHERE, PLEASE, THE PLANT IS REQUIRED TO THE FIRST, HOW THEY USE IT IN THE DESIGN OF THE GARDEN. THESE EFFECTIVE PLANTS NEEDLY PICK THE ATTENTION. Therefore, they do not belong to the site where they grow a potato or cucumbers. AND IN THE PALESADNIK OF THE VARIETY TYPE NEAREST WITH GEORGINS, GLADIOS, AND PETUNIYA THEY WILL ALSO LIKE TO LOOK OUT UNEXPECTLY. FOR THE FRAMEWORK OF THEIR EXCELLENT BEAUTY, THE STRICT LACONITY OF THE ACCUMULATED GASON IS NECESSARY. WELL THEY ARE IN THE MINIMALISTIC GARDEN, WHERE THE CONVEYED PLANTS PREVENT

© Author: NATALIA GNATOVSKAYA

Not in any mixborder they will find a suitable place, first of all - for agrotechnical requirements, since most plants do not tolerate acidic soils. And next to the roses - will also be out of place. They are very attracted to the company with plants with similar requirements to the quality of soils and lighting conditions. In particular, neighborhood with hydrangeas is welcomed, although they do not coincide at the time of flowering. Rhododendrons after all blossom in the spring, and hydrangeas, as is known, "the queen of the autumn garden". But foliage azaleas in the fall acquires a bright yellow or orange color, and evergreen rhododendrons with their glossy leaves are very adorned with bushes of flowering hydrangeas located in the neighborhood.

Array

At the same time, they should be planted with arrays. A single miserable bush, growing somewhere on a bumpy hill that can hardly be seen among the weeds and nettles, is unlikely to decorate the site, although I suppose the soul of the gardener will warm.

The Right Neighbors

In solving landscape problems, it is necessary to remember the preferred neighbors. Therefore, it is best to plant rhododendrons under the pine canopy, which shades them at noon hours, hides their needles with needles, playing the role of mulch and supporting not only the necessary soil moisture, but also its acidic environment. If you plan to start a rhododendron and the area of ​​the site allows, at least one pine should be planted specially, especially since now it is possible to find dwarf forms on sale. For example, in compositions with pine mountain rhododendrons look great!

And with other coniferous plants (thujas, juniper-wels, fir and larch) - the planting of rhododendrons is welcomed. Typically, several specimens of these plants of different heights and harmonious colors are planted. An uplifted "flowerbed", as discussed above, is usually covered with stones (only non-alkaline dolomitic!), Which creates an additional decorative effect (remember rocky soils under natural growth conditions). Dwarf forms are exceptionally good in artfully executed stony gardens, among picturesquely scattered stones, gravel packing or crushed bark.

Next to the rhododendrons, shade-tolerant plants are planted as companions, primarily non-aggressive small ferns. Among the rhododendrons, it is good to place spring melkolukichnye, which do not need annual digging, various kinds of primulas, species tulips, small-flowered narcissus, scylla, lily of the valley, European chopstick, liverworts, Kandyks. Here, small hosts will be appropriate.

In conclusion, I must confess that, as usual, having thoroughly studied the theory of the question, in the end I never dared to have these capricious plants in my garden, although all the prerequisites for this were.

And the pine trees growing on the site, and acidic loams, and the necessary knowledge of agricultural technology and variety variety ... And after I saw the splendor of English rhododendrons and realized that we would never achieve such results, I completely left this idea. The thought that nothing will work out by itself, rhododendrons will constantly require attention and will grow in the northern Moscow region rather contrary to, and the result is not guaranteed, made me abandon my plans. But to all those who are still enthusiastic, I wish you success in such a difficult science of taming rhododendrons to harsh Russian conditions.

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About Rododendron from Trauma - Benefits and Care

Rhododendron - a luxuriously flowering shrub - has recently become increasingly popular among gardeners.

We heat on the winter

Since rhododendron is a heat-loving plant, it needs to be covered for the winter. First of all, you should carefully cover the roots with lapnik, and the bush itself - wrap it with some kind of covering material. If the bush is small, you can arrange around it a kind of house. Just do not build the shelter too early - the optimal time for preparing the plant for wintering is the end of October - the beginning of November. You can open rhododendrons in spring when the average daily air temperature is above 0 °.

This probably also happens because it has a huge amount of nutrients that have a positive effect on health. However, here we should make a reservation: if you do not adhere strictly to the recommendations for its use in treatment, the rhododendron may have the opposite effect, since it contains poisonous elements.

WE CUT THROUGH HALF-SPOT

Growing a rhododendron in the garden is not difficult. The first thing to remember is that the plant likes partial shade. In the shade, it will grow very slowly, and a bright scorching sun will dry its delicate flowers. Take his place, for example, in the shadow of the crown of a large tree with deep roots. The rhododendron has superficial roots; therefore, it will not compete with the tree for food and moisture. Plant the plant best in May, when the earth is well heated.

Rhododendrons can be grown from seeds, but it is easier to purchase a seedling in a reliable nursery to know the variety precisely. For planting, prepare such a pit so that the roots of the plant can fit there absolutely freely. Well pour the soil with warm water.

For the backfill prepare the following mixture: 50% of the garden soil, 25% peat and 25% dry pine needles. Carefully place the bush in the pit and prikopayte prepared substrate. Around the planted bush, pour an 4-5-centimeter layer of needles or coniferous chips. If you plan to plant a few bushes, then the distance between them should be about 1,5 m.

BOTTLES, CUTTERS, LININGS

Rhododendron should be watered to prevent drying out of the soil, especially in the first summer. To create a beautiful bush shape, prune annually after flowering. The year after planting, in May, feed him with a complex mineral fertilizer (dilute it in warm water according to the instructions on the package and pour it). In the future, plants can not be fed, the exception is if the bushes began to develop poorly, rarely bloom, the leaves turn pale.

TREATMENT WITH LEAVES

As a medicinal raw material it is possible to use different parts of the plant, however, leaves are often harvested. Collect them should be in dry weather in the 2-th half of the day during flowering plants. To dry it is necessary, having spread out a thin layer on a paper (for example, on a verandah) and periodically stirring.

Rhododendron has anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial, immunostimulating properties, it reduces the temperature, has a sedative and analgesic effect. With the help of this plant can improve the state of the cardiovascular, digestive systems, reduce blood pressure, get rid of insomnia and headaches.

1. Tincture. Take the 1 art. l. dry rhododendron leaves, pour 250 ml of vodka and put in a dark cool place for 15 days. Then strain and take on 1 tsp. 3 times a day between meals to treat the cardiovascular system. Compresses with this tincture will help with rheumatism and radiculitis.
2. Decoction. 1 st. l. dry leaves pour 250 ml of boiling water and put on fire. Boil for 15 min., Then cool and strain. Drink 30 ml 3 times a day for cardiovascular, colds with fever, for the removal of headaches, and as an expectorant.
3. Compresses with this decoction will help with arthritis, radiculitis, skin diseases and in the treatment of wounds. If you rinse your mouth and throat with a decoction, it will save you from tonsillitis, stomatitis and other inflammatory diseases.

© Author: Advised by experienced horticulturist and herbalist Nikita Ilyich KOTOVSKY

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RODODENRONS - LANDING AND CARE. TIPS AND REVIEWS OF SPECIALISTS

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RODODENDRONS IN THE GARDEN - WHAT, WHERE AND HOW?

In our vanity, the first requirement for a garden is easy care. Therefore, many gardeners are convinced: the site must be attended by exclusively resistant plants of the local flora. But there is one exotic, against whose charm no one can resist. Rhododendron appears in almost every garden, sooner or later.

In our vanity, the first requirement for a garden is easy care. Therefore, many gardeners are convinced: the site must be attended by exclusively resistant plants of the local flora. But there is one exotic, against whose charm no one can resist. Rhododendron appears in almost every garden, sooner or later.

How many books we read in our childhood about adventures, where impenetrable thickets of rhododendrons periodically stood in the way of travelers through which they had to bravely wade! And this “monster" in our hands is young, reverent and tender. We plant according to the instructions without breathing: 18,5% of the leafy land, juniper litter, the tail of a dried lizard caught in the full moon ... Why all these dances with tambourines? Yes, because someone is wintering with someone on the site, but someone is not, and it is not clear why. Already a three-layer case was sewn on a lining - it does not grow. Not otherwise, the lizard breed matters ... Or, perhaps, the "breed" of rhododendron? Let's get it right.

So what we have. Rhododendrons are evergreen, deciduous and semi-deciduous. The name “azalea” firmly stuck to the deciduous in everyday life (not to be confused with indoor plants!) These characters bloom in the spring, so much so that it captures the spirit! What we love them for. But the trouble is that all of them, as a rule, turn out to be a little more southerly than the residents of central Russia would like.

Hence the main problem of their cultivation - a successful wintering. They bloom in May and June, some - on almost bare branches, others - during the blooming of foliage. In contrast to the evergreen rhododendrons, which are cool to the pink-violet cold gamut, the deciduous ones mostly delight the eye with flowers of warm shades — yellow or orange.

White color is here and there, but with all its elegance it turns out to be the least demanded - we have a lot of white flowering plants in the spring, with which there is far less trouble!

The evergreen rhododendron needs no introduction. Everything is fine in it: "both the face, and the clothes, and thoughts." The flowering process (in the Moscow region it is May-June) is an indescribable sight. Huge hats cover the plants with a gentle “snowdrift”. But if he drops the last petal ... No, we don’t get upset at all, because right there the beauty and grace of the bush itself becomes visible, in the whole appearance of which the inner nobility is clearly visible. Neat leathery leaves (especially in combination with conifers) give the garden a touch of exoticism. And in winter ... We will talk about winter separately.

Needless to say, the vast majority of rhododendrons need a warmer climate, where the minimum winter temperature does not exceed at least -20'C. If you start searching for information on the topic “winter-resistant rhododendrons”, the list most often comes up: Kamchatka rhododendron, Ledebura, Daurian (branches of which are sold in the spring under the name “Ledum”), Schlippenbach, Smirnova ... These are species of rhododendrons that are rarely found on sale. And what we see on the shelves is already varieties and hybrids, bred by breeders.

Moreover, the selection is carried out both in the variety and quality of flowering, and in winter-hardiness of plants. Significantly increase the winter hardiness, as it may sound boring, will help the right agricultural techniques. About the fact that rhododendron needs light acidic soil, everyone probably heard. But a couple of times over the summer to share tea with lemon with him is not enough. Buy a bag of sour peat, mix with sand, shake needles from the pines, fill this hole when planting - he will be happy. A special fertilizer with mycorrhiza has also shown itself well (it is a symbiotic mushroom, like a pine tree oilcan, helping the weak roots of rhododendron to work more efficiently). And one more thing: you can feed with fertilizer with nitrogen only in spring and just once after flowering, when there is an active growth of shoots. Further, closer to the fall, flower buds should be laid on the ends of the shoots. But if at this moment from the heart to feed with nitrogen, then instead of flower buds lay the usual sheet. Rhododendron winters, but it will bloom weakly. Therefore, at the end of summer and autumn - only potassium phosphorus.

So what's the winter? If you choose the right variety, then you will only have to tinker with the shelter for the first two years. Further - at will. Or, after all, we cover up in case of an extremely harsh winter, or resign ourselves to the fact that every seven to ten years they will not please us with lush flowering.

And now the crown focus of winter-hardy evergreen rhododendrons! To survive the frosts and the associated lack of moisture (the roots of the frozen soil do not supply water), they evolutionarily learned to twist the leaves into thin tubes, which can significantly reduce evaporation.

So they stand all winter, frozen and skinny, and in the spring they unfold the leaves, as if nothing had happened. And, by the way, if you don’t know what kind of rhododendron you grow, you can determine whether it is winter-hardy or not: if autumn leaves are folded up - everything is fine, if you don’t rush to do it - we cover it in several layers. And yet: all rhododendrons have one common weak point - the safety of flower buds in the winter.

They are especially brittle in deciduous. Therefore, all the manipulations with the shelter and snow throwing spend very carefully.

The next question is where to plant. It would seem, in the warmest place, in the sun! But no. Sunny place is suitable only for deciduous. And in our conditions, evergreen is more comfortable in partial shade, where the atmosphere is slightly more humid. The “mild” climate is mild, without sudden changes in temperature and other parameters. And, of course, no drying wind: neither hot in summer nor cold in winter. Therefore, close the perimeter and - go ahead! The ideal place is under the translucent canopy of tall trees, where rhododendron bushes form a luxurious undergrowth. This is what the rhododendron garden often looks like. Yes, not one expensive specimen in a flowerbed, not two experimental varieties at the fence, but a garden — with paths winding between tall trees surrounded by a dense mass of solid bushes. Groups are selected not only by color, but also by the strength of growth, and the nature of the foliage, and in accordance with the timing of flowering (this can stretch the decorative period to two or more months).

Needless to say, during the flowering, people from all over the world flock to rhododendron parks (which are abundant in traditional places of their growth and breeding) to admire the luxurious spectacle.

Is your cottage located in a pine forest, or just on a plot where there are large trees, under which you try in vain to plant roses or, with a stubbornness worthy of better use, do you patch a balding lawn every spring? Drop, there is a much better option!

EARTH GREEN VARIETIES OF RHODENDRONS

In the 90s (oh - happiness!), Varieties of evergreen rhododendron, completely winter-resistant in the conditions of central Russia, were bred. Finnish scientists have tried. The two most famous varieties are the 'Helsinki University' and 'The Hague', standing up alert when the thermometer creeps up close to the -40 ° C mark. With insignificant shelter, rhododendrons derived on the basis of Katevbinsky winter well: pink-lilac 'Katevbinsky Grandifloom', 'Burso', 'Roseum elegans', red-raspberry 'Nova Zembla', dark violet 'Azurro', white 'Album' . The luxurious “royal” series, the creation of Polish breeders, where varieties are named after historically significant rulers, for example, “Queen Jadwiga”, winters in about the same way.

Every year there are several varieties that can tolerate our winters. WINTER IN THE MIDDLE STRIP A LOT. The “bark” series behaves perfectly (Golden bark, Mandarin bark). And also the most common of the species - rhododendron yellow, which is also very fragrant. Of the semi-deciduous - rhododendron 'Elite' (PJM Elite), blooming pink-purple cloud, with leaves emitting a tarry odor.

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RODODENDRONES: APPROACH TO THE DRIVERS

Over the past few years, these stunning beauty shrubs catch up with roses in popularity. But not every grower manages to grow them - it is painfully capricious. Finding an approach to plants is not easy, but possible.

Choose seedlings

One of the common problems - most seedlings die in the first winter. When choosing planting material in a nursery or online store, look for information about the frost resistance of the variety and correlate it with the conditions of your region.

Say, sissies who are not able to survive the frosts in -20 degrees., Florists in the middle lane need to get around.

If the lower limit is specified in the range of -27 degrees, you can take a chance, but you will have to find a secluded place for the plants and cover for the winter (build a frame, and burlap or spanbond on it).

But it is better to choose varieties that can tolerate cold below -30 degrees. (GoldenLight, San Michel, The Hague).

Planting time

The most optimal is the beginning of autumn (no later than mid-October) and early spring (when frosts pass, but the plants have not yet bloomed).

Rhododendrons have a shallow root system and large leaves that are very sensitive to drought, so wet and cool seasons are best for acclimatizing these shrubs in a new place.

Appropriate place

Rhododendrons prefer sunny or semi-shady areas protected from gusty winds. For shading from the midday sun, you can plant plants next to a coniferous tree, house or gazebo (just not close - back away from the building or tree a few meters).

Another important point: the soil must be acidic! Fill the planting pit with a diameter of about 70 cm and a depth of 50 cm with horse ginger peat (sold in shops and garden centers).

Do not go too far with leaving!

• It is advisable to feed rhododendrons with a special mineral fertilizer special for these plants (enough at the beginning of the season).
• Since the shrubs do not tolerate drought, water abundantly in the season, but do not flood (they also do not like the “swamp”).
• Do not loosen the ground around the plants. Even weeds are better not to dig, but simply pull out. In general, the near-trunk circle should always be mulched - pine needles, moss, acid peat, chopped pine bark.

© Author: Alexey VOLODIHIN, agronomist, Moscow

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Rhododendrons in the Garden - Propagation

Care for adult rhododendrons in the first half of the season consists in weeding the trunks, as necessary - in the polyp and top dressing. Can be propagated in the summer. However, each business has its own characteristics.

For normal growth and development of plants, the soil should be improved every 2-3 years. To do this, in the spring, a bucket of nutrient mixture (rotted cow manure or completely decomposed compost) is introduced into the near-stem circle of an adult rhododendron and closed up to a shallow depth. It’s even better to carefully scrub the top layer of soil, evenly sprinkle “food” and cover it with topsoil.

Rhododendron Reproduction

Cutting.

Rhododendrons belong to the group of hard-rooted plants. For successful rooting, lightly lignified shoots are cut in the first half of July.

The treatment of cuttings with root stimulants accelerates the formation of roots and significantly increases their number.

Layering.

The shoot selected for propagation in spring and early summer is fixed with wooden or metal hooks in a previously dug and loosened groove about 3 cm deep. The top of the twig is attached to a vertical position by tying it to a peg driven into the ground nearby. Then the shoot is sprinkled with a substrate at the bend, mulched and moisturized uniformly during the season. In ideal conditions, the roots may appear in the same year. The rooted branch is cut from the mother plant and left in place for another 2-3 years.

In spring, rhododendrons, like other shrubs, can be fed with a solution of liquid fermented mullein (1:15) or with a dry NPK mixture (ammonium sulfate, superphosphate, potassium sulfate - 2: 1: 1, at the rate of 30-40 g / sq. m). If you haven’t done so, deposit now.

The second time they feed after flowering with a mixture of phosphorus and potassium fertilizers (2: 1), which contributes to the laying of buds next year. If necessary, you can pour it 1-2 times in the summer, but no later than the beginning of August. Otherwise, this may cause untimely growth of shoots and their freezing in winter.

It must be remembered that large doses of superphosphate are dangerous for rhododendrons - they create iron deficiency. Fertilizers containing lime and chlorine should be avoided, and special ones, such as ammonium sulfate, should be used.

After withering, the resulting seed bolls are removed, which contributes to better flowering next year, and the bushes will look neater. To collect seeds, you can leave just a few developed fruits.

Graft.

It is used for slow-growing species and varieties, as well as for species that cannot be propagated by other methods, and when varietal characters need to be preserved. The best rootstock for vaccinating evergreen species and varieties are considered R. katevbinsky and Pontic, and for deciduous - yellow and Japanese.

The stock is 3-5 years old. The best time for propagation of azaleas by vaccination is the end of May-June, depending on the beginning of the growing season, as well as in closed ground, on pre-prepared stocks. For better fusion of scion and rootstock, they should be sprayed for two weeks, maintain uniform soil moisture and avoid temperature fluctuations. Growing rhododendrons need to be replanted annually in fresh soil.

Division.

Only overgrown bushes with many shoots are suitable. But postpone the division until next spring and get to work until growth begins. And remember, each divide must have developed roots and at least one shoot.

© Author: Alexander MANANNIKOV, plant collector, Svetlovodsk, Kirovograd region. Photo by Valentina BONDAR

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GOOD NEIGHBORS FOR RHODENDRON

When choosing plants for garden compositions with rhododendrons, one has to be guided not only by the principles of harmony. The neighbors of the “king of the garden” should have the same preferences as him, including - be sure to love acidic soils.

TRANSPORTS

At first glance, the flowering of rhododendron is so luxurious and abundant that it does not need to be supplemented. But still, other flowering perennials look quite harmoniously next to it. For example, wild rosemary. They are unpretentious, resistant to diseases and do not require winter shelter, grow well on acidic soils both in the shade and in the sun, tolerate waterlogging, but do not tolerate drought.

Looks good next to the rhododendron a low-growing type of shrub - Greenlandic bagul, whose adult specimens reach a height of no more than 45 cm. The edges of its leathery leaves are bent down. Flowering begins in the second half of June and lasts until the end of July. The flowers of this species are collected in umbellate inflorescences and have a creamy white tint.

Throughout the year, it retains its decorative effect due to evergreen leaves, which acquire a brownish tone by winter, marsh wild rosemary. Its erect dense bushes grow up to 1,5 m in height, with a crown diameter of about 1 m.In May-June, the plant is literally covered with white flowers, collected in dense inflorescences with a diameter of 4-5 cm.The flowers have a pleasant, but slightly intoxicating aroma. Marsh rosemary reacts well to pruning, but usually it is only required to keep the bush neat. It is important to know that this plant is poisonous!

For feeding wild rosemary, as well as for rhododendron, complete mineral fertilizer is suitable, which is applied in spring. It is useful to mulch the soil around the plants with bark or coniferous litter.

In the summer, during the dry period, watering rosemary may be infrequent, but abundant - about 8-10 liters of water are poured under one adult bush.

VERESKI

In a lighted or slightly shaded area in the foreground of a group of rhododendrons, several heather bushes can be placed. In late summer - early autumn, they will revive the composition with their flowering.

In the conditions of central Russia, it is advisable to cover heather for the winter. In late autumn, when the soil freezes to a depth of 5-7 cm, it is recommended to mulch the ground around the plant with peat, and close the bush on top with spruce branches. Of the most winter-hardy varieties of heather, the following can be distinguished.

Long White, characterized by rapid growth (annual growth up to 15 cm) and forming a tall, up to 60 cm, bush. The diameter of the spherical crown is about 60-70 cm. The leaves have a juicy green color, the flowers are simple, white, collected in racemose inflorescences up to 25 cm long. Blooms late: in late September - early October.

Darkness forms a sprawling, dense, erect bush 35-45 cm high. During the growing season, the leaves are green, in winter they darken, the bark is dark brown. The flowers are simple, densely arranged on peduncles, the length of which reaches 15 cm. It blooms from mid-August to late September.

Silver Knight is about 35 cm high, with a compact cushion crown, the annual growth is about 10 cm. The silvery-gray fluffy leaves acquire a purple hue in winter. The flowers are simple, light purple or lilac, the length of the inflorescences up to 20 cm. Flowering continues from late July to mid-September.

Carmen forms a dense erect bush 30-40 cm high, a broad-oval or spherical crown in diameter can grow up to 50 cm.The leaves are dark green. It begins to bloom in September, the flowers are pink-purple, the length of the peduncles is 15-20 cm.

Heathers, like rhododendrons, grow in acidic soils. The optimum substrate consists of equal parts sour peat and sand. Heather prefers bright sunlight, but is also tolerant of light shading. In general, plant care is simple and consists of watering, weeding and pruning, which, however, can be limited to light spring cutting to maintain the shape of the bushes and stimulate the growth of young shoots.

Regular watering is essential for heather in dry weather. During this period, it is useful for the plant and additional spraying or sprinkling in the evening.

Top dressing is carried out in the spring, in April-May, using full mineral fertilizer. It is recommended to mulch the soil surface around the heather with sawdust, fallen needles or conifer chips.

FUELS

When planning a composition with rhodendrons, ferns are often invited to the company. Really,

elegant delicate fronds are perfectly combined with large-flowered rhododendrons, the lacy green of ferns adds air to the composition. In addition, loose soils with an acidic and slightly acidic reaction are suitable for almost all forest ferns.

The female kochedzhnik, which is commonly called the “female fern,” is a plant with a short thick rhizome and a rosette of large, up to 120 cm long, openwork, double-triple-feathery wai. There are several hundred varieties of this fern.

The stately puremouth, or royal osmund, in favorable conditions can reach a height of up to 2 m.The fronds of this fern are tall, wide-oval in shape, form a dense crown, which changes color over time: at the beginning of the growing season it has a slight reddish tint, in summer it becomes bright green, and golden in autumn.

The male shieldworm has dark green, dense, double-pinned fronds, collected in the correct rosettes. Differs in slow growth. At first, young leaves are coiled and covered with brown scales, they unfold only the next year.

Sensitive onoklea grows up to 70 cm in height. The rhizomes of the plant are long, creeping, located at a depth of 8-10 cm and branching strongly. Vegetative leaves are pinnate, light green, spore-bearing, double-pinnate. Onoklea grows rather quickly.

An important condition for good growth of ferns is always moist soil, but without stagnant water (can lead to root rot). Regular watering is especially necessary for the plant in spring, during active growth, as well as in the summer heat. Water can be poured not only at the root, but also on the fern frond.

Ferns growing in the garden are sometimes damaged by caterpillars and slugs. As a rule, no special protective equipment is used against them. The easiest and surest way is to collect pests by hand.

© Author: S. VORONINA, florist

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WITH RHODODENDRON ON "YOU"

Not everyone dares to plant rhododendrons. I have a lot of experience in growing them, so I want to share it with my readers.

In early spring, when the sun becomes mercilessly scorching, I must cover the evergreen rhododendrons in open areas with nets with 70-80% or 30-40% shading, but in 2 layers (you can use another light breathable material). The root system of these plants is located close to the surface, and if there is no rain and the ground is dry, there will be no moisture access to the flower buds - together with the leaves, they will dry out. I pour out 1 - 2 large watering cans under an adult bush.

I feed the plants, when the air temperature is stable at least +10 degrees, with liquid complex fertilizer for rhododendrons "Bona Forte", "Target" or others, according to the instructions.

In spring, it is good to add a bag of Tiovit Jet fungicide under an adult bush (according to the instructions). In addition to the main action, it also acidifies the soil, which has a beneficial effect on the plant.

In the fall, I treat the culture with a universal preparation for protection against diseases "Abiga-Peak" (according to the instructions). I repeat the processing in mid-March.

From wintering rhododendrons should come out with healthy flower buds, formed last year. This is the key to successful flowering and development.

LANDING SECRETS

The main thing is to plant the rhododendron in the right soil in the spring. I use pine litter (not dry needles, but rotted needles with earth at the foot of the tree) - I remove a layer of 2-3 cm, mix with high peat and garden soil (2: 1: 1).

I fill the planting hole with the mixture, add a handful of prolonged-release fertilizer "Agricola" (according to the instructions), mix.

I plant the plant without deepening the planting secrets of the root collar, water it - and for the first time, while it takes root, I continue to do it often, but do not fill it.

Be sure to mulch the soil with coniferous litter to maintain moisture. I do not acidify or fertilize with anything during the season - I allow it to adapt to new conditions.

If the substrate in the container is wet, I immediately plant the seedling on the site. When dry, I immerse the root ball in water with any growth stimulator (according to the instructions).

© Author: Lyudmila SULTANOVA, Borisov

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RHODODENDRONS: ERRORS IN CARE

The main problems that can provoke the appearance of diseases and even the death of a plant arise due to errors in agricultural technology. Let's consider the most relevant.

The best time to plant a rhododendron in the middle lane is the end of April-May. In the southern regions, it can be planted in the fall, until the beginning of October.

Place of planting
PROBLEM	CAUSE	SUITABLE CONDITIONS
The shoots are elongated, the leaves are small, often chlorotic. Flowering is weak	deaf shadow	The best landing place is partial shade
Burning, drying out of leaves, death of shoots	Open sun (more than 3 hours a day) from 1 1 a.m. to 16 p.m.	For deciduous species, the sun should be in the first half of the day (until 1 am), and then - partial shade; for evergreens - several hours of sun per day (before 1 1 or after 1 hours)
Dehydration and desiccation of the plant	Drafts (often when landing between buildings)	Landing site protected from drafts and winds
Freezing, damping of the root collar	Low-lying area (stagnation of cold air, long snowmelt)	Landing on a higher site without deepening the root collar

Shelter for the winter
PROBLEM	CAUSE	SUITABLE CONDITIONS
Burning and blackening of leaves, especially when opened late in spring in sunny areas	Covering material is in contact with the leaves; covering with too dense materials	The best way to protect in sunny areas is a green shading net with a density of 42 g / sq.m in two layers.
Oedema (excess water in the leaves): as a result, necrotic spots appear on the damaged areas of the leaf plate	High humidity under cover (often when using foil) during spring snowmelt	Evergreen species cover the frame (the mesh is located on the frame and does not come into contact with the plant), deciduous - contact

Soil conditions
PROBLEM	CAUSE	SUITABLE CONDITIONS
The roots rot, the plant is affected by dangerous fungal infections (late blight, fusarium, wilt)	heavy soil	Well-drained, organic-rich light loam with a pH of 4,5-6
The plant lacks water and nutrition	light soil
Leaf chlorosis, growth retardation and infection	alkaline soil	Regularly water the soil under the plant with a solution of citric, oxalic or acetic acid (3 g / 1 l), apply physiologically acidic fertilizers (ammonium nitrate, superphosphate, magnesium sulfate)
Root rot and tissue necrosis	Strongly acidic soil (pH below 4,5)	The soil is lime

Note

Long periods of low temperatures (below -18 degrees) in winter can cause shoots to freeze even under protection. In this case, severely damaged leaves and shoots are removed on the affected specimens, and then the timely application of dressings during the season is monitored.

© Author: Nadezhda FLOSS, phytopathologist, author of telegram-canola fitododoc_fljo$s, Moscow

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