Growing zemlukniki - planting and care (Moscow region)
Zemklunika - planting and care, varieties and reviews
Summer this year was extremely unfavorable for growing vegetables and fruits. Particularly pronounced weather conditions on berries. All the favorite strawberries in the middle zone of the garden were mostly tasteless, watery and not very productive. On many varieties, fungal diseases began to develop rapidly, causing both leaves and buds to dry up.
All this was fully present on my site.
And only zemklunika, which I have grown for the fourth year, has pleased with a rich harvest of delicious sweet berries.
With the aroma of wild berries
Acquaintances who accidentally saw my bed with dredges at the beginning of summer asked in surprise what kind of strawberry variety was all in flowers and buds. I explained to them that this is a different culture - a hybrid of large-fruited wild strawberries and European strawberries.
Zemluniku is distinguished by a very high yield. On one bush is from 12 to 25 tall erect peduncles, strewn with buds and flowers (up to 250 pcs on each bush). At me this summer on each plant there were no more than 13, and on the average 8-9 pcs. But even in cold rainy weather, the zloklunika blossomed quite abundantly. Its leaves are the same as those of strawberry garden, only the bush is thicker and each forms a large number of mustaches and rosettes, which makes it possible to multiply this culture quickly.
I started 4 years ago with 10 bushes that I was presented by one of the leading breeders of the dredger, candidate of agricultural sciences II. Chukhlyaev. Today I already have a whole plantation of 3 large beds. Zemkluniki’s berries are very fragrant and sweet “with a hint of wild strawberry. They are sweeter than any strawberry variety and contain 11–12% more solids, sugars and acids. And vitamin C in dairy berries is not less than 85 mg%.
Fruiting begins in late June - early July (depending on the weather) and continues until the end of August. The first berries are very large - up to 20 g, but by the middle of summer they become smaller, with an average weight of 7-8 g. But in terms of quantity they are much larger. According to scientists, the average yield per bush is 420 g.
See also: Zemclunika (photo) varieties and benefits
Since the peduncles are erect and fairly high, the berries practically do not touch the ground, they are well blown and do not get dirty, so they are very rarely affected by gray rot, and even in a rainy summer, crop losses are minimal. Despite this, with a plentiful harvest, I nevertheless substitute wooden sticks with a spear on the end for berries, especially at the beginning of fruiting, when the berries are very large.
The first berries have a rounded shape, they are denser than those of strawberry garden, and better tolerate transportation. The following fruits have a more elongated shape. They are painted in red or burgundy color, in some varieties with a purple hue. When harvesting berries are easily separated from the cup and stored much longer than the strawberry garden.
Zemclunika is good in processing.
From berries you get an amazing jam, in which each berry retains its shape. They are good for making compotes. And the kids love the berries fresh, because they are sweet and fragrant.
LANDING OF THE SANDWICH
Of great importance is the choice of location. It should be well illuminated by the sun throughout the day. Culture does not like the stagnation of water, so it should be planted on beds 20-25 cm high and black under the black non-woven covering material, so that weeds are not killed.
BEFORE LANDING you need to carefully prepare the soil. It should be very good to dig the ground, selecting all the roots of the weeds, add to
1 sq. M. m 1 bucket of organic (rotted manure, compost), 1 bucket of sand (for better permeability if you have clay soils), 3 matchbox superphosphate and 2 box of potassium sulfate. I still poured buckets of wood ash under 10 plants 2. Further all this should be carefully mixed and leveled the surface of the bed with rakes.
Ready bed from the top covered with black non-woven covering material (by no means a film!), The ends of which are fixed around the edges by any improvised means (bricks, boards, etc.). After that you can proceed to landing.
I plant zemklunik according to the scheme 25 × 40 cm. 2 rows are obtained on the garden bed. I lay on the non-woven coating alternately on both sides of the centimeter, stepping back from the edges of the beds of 20 cm, as the mustache with rosettes will take root at the edges. I draw crosses with chalk every 25 cm in a row. Between the rows I leave 40 cm. Then at the marked points I make cross-sectional cuts with sharp scissors. I expand them with my hands, scoop up a hole and plant a dredger bush in each slot. After planting, each bush is carefully watered with water from a watering can with rain.
POLISHES are very important for zemlukniki, especially if it's hot weather. In addition, the plant during the growing season requires increased nutrition in comparison with strawberry strawberries. This is due to the fact that the culture requires a large number of nutrients to form a huge number of flowers and berries. Usually every year 3-4 carries out obligatory top dressing: before and during flowering, and also after fruit setting.
SEAR zlakluniku can be in spring and autumn. I founded my plantation in early September. By the end of the month the bushes gave a mustache with one rosette. For them I made additional slots in the non-woven cover and, as I.I. Chukhlyaev, pinned them to the ground in these sections with special metal round brackets (in the shape of the letter L), which I made of thick wire. In the summer of next year, each bush gave 5-6 sockets, which I in the same way pinched in the slits to the ground.
FIRST CROP zaklunniki I received already in the second year. The berries were so delicious and fragrant that I began to propagate zlakluniku, cutting beds for strawberries garden.
By the way, based on the experience of this summer, I want to give one useful advice to those who are going to grow this new remarkable culture. To improve the binding of berries tsvetkulniki flowers I recommend to treat 0,3% solution of calcium nitrate.
Zemklunika is a fairly winter-hardy culture. It tolerates heat and cold, and rainy weather. However, given the fact that sometimes in the middle lane a snowless “black” winter sometimes comes, I advise you to cover the current year’s plantings with one layer of fir spruce branches.
See also: Zemclunika variety Kupchikha: photo and cultivation
BEST SAMPLES OF THE ZEMKLUNIKI
The first grade I planted was Muscat biryulevskaya. I really liked it, but I wanted to try other varieties of a new culture for me. Therefore, the next year I acquired two more - Nadezhda Zagorye and Penelope. This year, planted another new variety - Merchant. Planted in late August. What happens - look at next year. Briefly about each variety I can say the following.
MUSCATE BIRYULEVSKAYA. Bushes of medium height, peduncles high, flowers bisexual. The berries are red, with a high sugar content, elongated, the first weight up to 20 g, the rest smaller.
THE HOPE OF THE ZAGORIA. Bushes are powerful, peduncles tall and thick. Flowers are bisexual. The first berries weighing up to 20. The variety is very vigorous. Resistant to diseases.
PENELOPE. Shrubs are medium, bisexual flowers are located on a level with the leaves. As with other varieties, the first berries reach 20 g, and then gradually grow smaller. The variety is winter hardy, resistant to pests and diseases. Yield is lower than that of Muscat biryulevskaya. Berries are dark cherry with a violet hue, sweet and very fragrant. The variety is still more like a European strawberry.
KUPCHIHA. Very interesting new large-berry variety (mass of berries more than 25 g) with the aroma of wild strawberry and sweet, without sour taste. This variety has the highest winter hardiness. Resistant to pests and diseases.
© Author: O. IVANOVA, gardener-experimenter The Moscow region
Below other entries on the topic "Dacha and garden - with their own hands"
- White varieties of strawberries (Pineapple, etc.) my reviews, planting and care (Moscow)
- Strawberries and strawberries - how are they different?
- Planting strawberries in the fall - 5 pluses!
- Seed strawberries - two good ways to grow
- Tips for growing strawberries from a variety breeder
- What to mulch strawberries - what materials are better
- Care for strawberries after harvesting of berries
- When is it time to dig, remove, uproot old strawberries and plant new ones?
- Strawberry Festival or why you always need to check the seedlings ...
- Growing strawberries ... buckets - tips and secrets of care
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All the planting (different varieties of garden strawberries and earthwalkers) this summer was cleaned by someone ate. In the spring she fed, weeded, sprinkled humus and spilled copper sulphate. What to do? All thrown away or you can leave a mustache?
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The indirect culprit of the “defeat” on the strawberry garden, which was organized by a company of leaf-eating pests (as I suppose, among them were strawberry leaf beetle, May beetle larvae, K adult individuals of raspberry-strawberry and nettle-leaf weevils, caterpillars of some species of butterflies and leaflets), can be considered ... this year's unusually good spring. It was such April and May - warm, without torrential rains and freezing frosts - that contributed to a sharp increase in the number of insects and their good appetite.
Mechanical damage to the leaves is significant, but still not critical for plants. I suppose that in the summer, of course, there was no large harvest from such plants, but still the plants survived and recovered. Mustaches from such bushes can be taken.
But what conclusion should be drawn for the future? We cannot influence the weather, but to be more attentive to agricultural technology is quite feasible. The reader’s mistake is that, like many gardeners, she did not understand the features of different groups of plant protection products - fungicides (protected against diseases) and insecticides (protection against pests). She carried out the processing of plants with copper sulfate and believed that chemistry was enough. But the solution of copper sulfate is a means of preventing and protecting plants from only a number of fungal diseases and in no way affects the vital activity and activity of insect pests!
To protect against such unpleasant surprises, I recommend that you always carry out in the spring at the beginning of plant growth 7-10 days before flowering with an insecticide against leaf-eating and sucking pests. The choice of suitable drugs is wide enough - these are inexpensive drugs such as kalbofos or colloidal sulfur, and more modern and safe for humans drugs.
Preventive treatment is needed even if you have never had anything like this before - pests can get to you from neighboring sites or quietly get to you with new planting material in the fall. In hot years with a large number of pests, two treatments may be required.
O. SYRITSO, Researcher at the Laboratory of Horticulture, RSAU-Moscow Agricultural Academy. KJL Timiryazeva