Plants from seeds - sowing "savages"
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"Savages" from the seeds
Almost every flower lover faces growing plants from seeds. However, often many fail, especially if they are species forms. "Savages" in this sense are more capricious and require a slightly different approach, unlike varietal ones.
They often have low seed germination, extended periods of germination, and quite a bit in the second and even the third year. In addition, these are usually small sprouts, they slowly develop and are especially sensitive to lack of moisture. The best time for sowing is starting from January, and using the backlight; it can be done now.
Soil Preparation
Sow the seeds of species plants only in a well-prepared substrate. For this humus soil must be steamed and sifted. To it, add peat, sand (3: 1: 1) and a little lime. Stir the mixture thoroughly.
For seeding, you can use any containers with drainage holes, deep enough, as part of the volume will take up the drainage layer - fine gravel and coarse fractions of the "screening" of the soil, then sand with a layer of 3-4. See next - the seed mixture is slightly below the top edge of the container.
Reference by topic: Propagation of plants with cuttings and seeds (part 2)
Sowing
Small seeds from above can only be sprinkled with a substrate, large ones are covered with a thicker layer. After sowing, the soil surface must be moistened from the spray gun. Cover the top with a film and in this form to withstand two or three days at room temperature. Not later than (!) Than on the third day the crops are taken to the street. It is better to choose a place where snow does not melt in the spring longer. It is raked, put the containers and fall asleep again (layer 10-20 cm). As a rule, in the spring with the arrival of heat there are friendly shoots, and in different species in different ways.
Seeds of bulbous, iris, clove, cruciferous, bellflower, borage, buttercup, etc., grow very rapidly, and, for example, podophyllum, trillium, pine cedar, aralia, Jeffersonia, eremurus, robinia and other natives of the Far East, Southeast Asia and Caucasus - only after a good warming of the soil.
Keep in mind
Containers with tugovschinimi seeds for the summer put in a semi-shadowed place from the north-west or west side of the building. It is important to carefully water the crops, not blurring the soil, and that its top layer does not dry up.
Containers with seeded seeds remain in the garden until 2 years. By the middle of the summer of the second year, containers with unprocessed crops can be removed.
At first, shoots can suffer from a black leg, so they should be treated with "Fundazol" (according to the instructions).
Approximately from the middle of May it is necessary to protect seedlings from slugs, otherwise it will be possible to completely lose seedlings in one night. To do this, about once in 1 -2 weeks, the soil surface is sprinkled with methaldehyde or around the containers - superphosphate. Prevent soil silt and overgrowing with moss will help ash or chopped charcoal - they scatter on the surface.
See also: Propagation of plants with cuttings and seeds (part 3)
Very responsible moment - time of disembarkation. Early planted plants (in the phase of cotyledons) usually die, as well as those planted before the last frosts pass. If you do this later in mid-August - there is a risk that the seedlings will not have time to settle down well and prepare for the winter.
Plant plants in the wells, previously filled with water, sprinkled on top with slightly moist soil. Pritenyayut.
Slowly developing seedlings can be left to winter in containers. For this, in autumn they must be covered with lapnik.
Evgeny KLYUIKOV, Cand. Biol. Sciences, Moscow
Below other entries on the topic "Dacha and garden - with their own hands"
- Titonia round-leaf (photo) planting and care
- Tritsirtis (photos) planting and care
- Persian hazel grouse (PHOTO) in the Middle lane - cultivation, planting and care
- Tigridia (photo) planting and care of the flower
- New varieties of marigolds, petunias, hippies and other flowers
- Jeffersonia (photo) planting and care, description and reproduction
- Geiger: reproduction of these flowers (photo)
- Baptistry (photos) planting and care
- Plyuschelistnaya Pelargonium (photo) - care
- Astilba - varieties (photo + description)
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What is the "old" seedlings? For what and all seedlings need to pinch the tops and roots?
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In an old seedling, the stem becomes woody, it becomes rigid. This happens from the drying of the earthy coma or with excessively thickened crops. To correct the situation, the seedlings must be "repolished", saved with biostimulants, light top dressings ("Epin", humates).
The spine of the seedlings is pricked or torn during picking in those plants for which a bad branching of the root system (ipomeia, cornflower, Iberis, clarke, calendula, etc.) is characteristic. Do this so that the lateral roots develop more actively, with a well-branched root system and the above-ground part of the plant develops better.
Tops can not pinch all plants. This is not needed, for example, most of the family are complex-colored. They bush begins to branch out after the first major inflorescence has formed. If you pinch it, slow down the development of the bush. And for example, petunia, snapdragon pricked often, so that they hardened more. Especially old varieties that branch out reluctantly. If the plants are planted in a pot, the prickles are mandatory to form a beautiful bush. Almost no need to pinch the lobelia cascade, it is also well branched.
Natalia ALEKSEEVA, collector, city of Pavlov, Leningrad region.