Sowing and growing seedlings of cabbage - my advice and method (Novgorod region.)
Cabbage seedlings: sowing and growing in the nursery
Cabbage is a cold-resistant crop. Many try to grow its seedlings on the windowsill in order to get the crop early. But seedlings are drawn, no matter how hard you try to create a favorable temperature regime for it.
Yes, and grown on the windowsill, it does not give the desired result.
Often such a seedling, transplanted into open ground, it does not take root well, most of the heads are not tied up, and if they are tied, they do not correspond to the quality of the variety. I now grow seedlings of cabbage only in a special nursery. This is a box without a bottom measuring 1,5 × 1 m. I lay down manure with straw to warm, and on top - garden soil, better from under cucumbers.
The nursery is covered with a film on the outside, and inside I put arcs and throw agril on them - a double shelter creates an air cushion that prevents the seedlings from freezing. I sow in late April. At this time, it usually rains, then snow - most often there is dirt. Seeds germinate within a week.
Yes, the seedlings develop slightly more slowly than on the windowsill, but the seedlings are healthy, strong and the transplant does not depress it.
This seeding of cabbage promotes rapid growth, full-knotted heads and high yields. Until the third decade of May, cabbage grows in the nursery. In sunny weather, I open the film from the ends, and if very warm, I completely remove it.
The covering material does not prevent the cabbage from growing. You can water without removing it, and pests do not penetrate through it. Planted 7-10 days before the beginning of flowering bird cherry - usually at the very end of May. Only the flower stalks are beginning to appear on the bird cherry tree - that means it's time. When the bird cherry blossoms, a cold snap usually occurs, but the cabbage has already taken root, and weak frosts are not afraid of it.
See also: Cabbage seedlings in glasses
I plant varieties of all the terms of ripening in one day: if the seedlings are of different sizes, then strong sprouts will begin to oppress the weak ones. I dig in the ground for the planting in advance, so she can stand. I fill the holes with humus with ash and mix it with the ground. Plentifully watered to make the water stand: on each hole 2-3 liters of water. When the water is absorbed, I plant the seedlings and water again, lightly press the ground near the roots and cover the hole with a dry layer with a dry layer so that the crust does not form and the plant breathes.
Landing is over. Sprinkle each bush with dry ash. The benefits of this procedure are twofold: micronutrient supplementation and pest control. Ash for the time being interrupts the smell of cabbage, and fleas fly by without laying eggs. The first years of fleas occur in late May - early June. So that they do not annoy, I cover the cabbage with covering material, and water it through it.
© Author: Nina Soboleva. Bykovo Novgorod region
Below other entries on the topic "Dacha and garden - with their own hands"
- Chinese cabbage at home in winter - my reviews
- Cabbage Cha Cha (Beijing) - planting and care (+ photo)
- Growing cabbage in the Orenburg region - planting and care
- Kohlrabi (photo) planting and care - growing tips
- Double crop on one cabbage root
- White cabbage - early, medium and late varieties (description)
- Their cabbage seeds are a great way!
- Cabbage variety Nadezhda - cultivation
- Growing cabbage in the Tyumen region - planting and care
- Beijing cabbage (photo) planting and care and a couple of recipes
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Earlier, I sowed cabbage for seedlings. However, in the apartment and the light did not have enough seedlings, and the air was dry. The plants were weakened, stretched, often fell ill with a black leg. 5 years ago I tried the seedless method and now I grow cabbage only so.
In the middle of April I rake the snow on the bed and shed the soil with boiling water.
I pour a layer of mulch from humus (5-7 cm) on top and set a greenhouse. By the end of April, when the soil warms up, I make holes 15–20 cm deep. I plant cabbage seeds at the bottom of the holes, 2-3 pcs. in each (then I pull out weak sprouts). I cover the crops with halves of the bottles (if these are the lower halves, then make holes in them). It turns out a double shelter - bottles and a greenhouse. As the cabbage grows, I fill the soil into the holes until they are filled.
When the temperature is set above 0 °, I remove the bottles. A row of rows in the garden is planted with dill, salad, radish, beans.
As soon as it is warmer than 10 °, I sort the greenhouse. The result is hardened cabbage seedlings with powerful roots and, in addition, a harvest of precocious vegetables and herbs.
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There are different methods of sowing seeds, the most common are shallow sowing with soil in the soil and sowing in the snow without being grounded.
Which one is best for home use?
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If you use inlaid or tested seeds with a good shelf life, use one of the standard methods of sowing, followed by picking or without it. If you do not plan to dive the plants, sow the seeds sparingly.
When the first real leaf appears on the seedlings, remove the weaker ones so that the distance between the plants is at least 5 cm.
When sowing with subsequent picking seeds seed at a distance of 1-1,5 cm from each other. And in the phase of the first real leaf, plant the plants into cells or cups.
The method of sowing in the snow is used in cases where they are going to sow old (five - six year old) seeds. Cold in this case serves as an “alarm clock”. True, the “pendulum method” works much better. Wrap the seeds in wet gauze, leave them to warm for 6 hours (at least + 22 degrees), then put them in the cold for 6 hours.
Repeat the procedure until the seeds begin to peck. After that, sow them with the usual method with embedding in the soil.