Decorative pines - types and varieties, planting and care
Contents ✓
- ✓ FOR WHAT THE PINE IS LOVED AND RECOGNIZED
- ✓ PYRAMIDS, BALLS AND EVEN PILLOWS
- ✓ PINE ORDINARY, OR FOREST
- ✓ PINE MOUNTAIN
- ✓ PINE BLACK, OR AUSTRIAN
- ✓ WEYMUTOV PINE
- ✓ SIBERIAN PINE
- ✓ DECORATIVE PINE - PLANTING AND CARE
- ✓ HOW TO TRANSFER PINE FROM THE FOREST?
- ✓ DISEASES AND PESTS OF PINE
- ✓ YOUR NURSERY KIDS
- ✓ SAGITTARES FROM SIZES.
- ✓ Pine - planting and care: video
GROWING DECORATIVE FOUNDS - LANDING AND CARE
Pine trees will always be in place in the garden, no matter whether it is large or very small. The size, shape of the crown and the color of the needles are so diverse that you can always choose the best option. There are more than a hundred species of pines, however, far from all of them will be able to winter here. But two dozen species suitable for central Russia are also many, and there are plenty of offers on the market today.
Fluffy pine beauties are unusually good at any time of the year. While the garden is not dressed with greens, they revive a sad landscape, when everything around blossoms, become a wonderful background for flowers and shrubs. And what can be more pleasant than breathing in the resinous smell of sun-warmed branches in summer heat!
FOR WHAT THE PINE IS LOVED AND RECOGNIZED
Many people revered pine as a symbol of longevity, fertility, wisdom. About it is composed of many legends. The most beautiful of them tells how the lovely nymph of the morning dawn Pitie gave her heart to the mischievous and cheerful Pan, the spirit and patron of the forests. But the ferocious god of the northern wind, Boreas, who loved the beauty, abducted her, turned it into a pine and transferred it to a lonely rock
Pines are rightly called queen among coniferous plants. They are famous not only for their beauty, but also for their longevity, many of them are able to live more than one hundred years. In addition, they amaze with their unpretentiousness and ability to adapt to a variety of conditions: they are found beyond the Arctic Circle and in the southern latitudes, on the seashore and near the swamp, even on granite rocks, climbing mountains to a height of 2500 m.
Powerful tall pine trees with spreading crowns are the basis of the entire composition of the garden, they require open space and not
need some additional design. For such a single planting choose the most resistant species and varieties, because all the errors of formation, damage to the crown will immediately strike the eye. But compact plants with an unusual shape of the crown, for example, weeping, grafted on the stem, or low mountain pine planted among large stones, can also perform solo.
Creeping species and varieties of pine is better not to plant on the lawn, it is beautiful, but not rational: it will be difficult to care for them, and the lawn itself - to mow. No need to place pines under large deciduous trees, they will cover them with fallen leaves, it will have to be removed so that the needles do not begin to boil.
The healing properties of pine were noticed in ancient times. Recipes for poultices and compresses from pine needles were found on clay tablets during excavations of the ancient Sumerian settlements, it was part of the embalming compositions in Ancient Egypt. In Russia, pine resin - gum - was chewed to disinfect the oral cavity, strengthen teeth and gums, and with its help wounds, cuts and burns were healed.
In general, mountain pines are just a godsend for the garden, they are very convenient: they do not clutter up the site, do not “fly away” upward, and they branch strongly, forming a dense crown, and grow slowly. They can be planted on the banks of ponds, for fixing dry slopes, in a Japanese or heather garden.
Low pine trees grow well in a cramped space, easily fitting into the composition with other conifers: spruce, juniper, larch, fir, thuja. They are remarkably combined with low shrubs, which have bright foliage: spireys, dereans, barberry. Harmoniously look next to onion blossoms, steppe grasses, sedum.
Pine trees in the garden - it is not only beautiful, but also good for health. They emit volatile, volatile organic substances that have tremendous bactericidal power. And the kidneys and needles contain a lot of substances necessary for the body: carotene, vitamins C, B, E, tannins, alkaloids, benzoic acid, essential oils.
The greatest amount of nutrients is found in the swollen but not yet budding buds and in the needles of 2-3-summer plants. They are used in the treatment of cardiovascular diseases, osteochondrosis, neuralgia, rheumatism, gum bleeding. Infusions, decoctions of needles of pine pine are used in bronchial asthma, respiratory diseases as an expectorant, extracts for strengthening baths are produced from it. Essential oil is a part of preparations for inhalations in diseases of respiratory tract, lungs, with catarrhal diseases, it is used for rubbing with rheumatic and articular pains. Particularly healthy oil cedar pines, it treats gastritis, stomach ulcer, is used for allergic diseases, burns, frostbite, eczema, psoriasis.
PYRAMIDS, BALLS AND EVEN PILLOWS
PINE ORDINARY, OR FOREST
PINE ORDINARY, OR FOREST is well known to all. It is a rapidly growing large tree, reaching a height of 20-40 m. In youth, the crown is conical, then it becomes more rounded; The branches diverge like a fan, settling around the trunk at one level; needles are dense, 4-7 in length, in a bundle along 2 needles.
This pine grows throughout Eurasia - from Western Europe to the Far East, in the north getting to the polar zone, in the south - to China and Mongolia. It is not surprising that, adapting to such different growing conditions, it changes the height, shape and size of the crown, the structure of the trunk, the length of the needles, the type of cones.
This conifers is able to live up to 200 and even up to 400 years, but so venerable age reaches only under conditions that are favorable for it: good lighting, light sandy or sandy loamy soils. Pine well tolerates frosts, excess and lack of moisture, does not like polluted air and does not tolerate shading at all.
Decorative forms of this pine will please you with a wide choice. If the site is suitable for the definition of "homestead", it is worth looking at large pines. It's like a column Fastigiata, reaching 15 m height at a diameter of 2 m, grows slowly, the branches are pressed to the trunk, the needles are bluish-green. Glauca height 10-15 m is valued for a dense tapered silvery-blue crown. Norske Type with low-lying branches at a height of 8-12 m has a wide-cone bluish-green crown with a width of 6 m.
However, such giants with their undoubted decorativeness on our sites, mainly from 6 to 12 acres, are hardly appropriate. But the pine Waters with a dense rounded bluish crown, any garden will undoubtedly decorate. It grows slowly and in adulthood is a multi-stemmed tree with a maximum height of 4 m. It is curious that the first such pine was discovered by the famous botanist and breeder Anthony Vaterrer in an English estate in 1865 and until recently it continued to grow there. And all plants of the Waterreri variety existing today are its descendants.
One of the best dwarf representatives - slowly growing Globoza Viridis. In adolescence, this pine looks like a ball, and as it grows, it turns into a pyramid with a height of up to 2 m. The branches are dense, to the ground, the needles are dark green, very dense, "plush." To the crown in winter is not affected by the weight of snow, it is advised to arrange something like a skeleton over it.
Among varieties with unusually colored needles is valued Aurea, in winter golden yellow, in spring and summer yellow-green. Pine needles Gold Coyne, Gold Medal, Candlelight attracts attention with the light yellow ends of young shoots. Bonn's crown is adorned with long bright blue needles; Argentea is decorated with silver-gray needles.
See also: Pines on the site (photo) planting, and species, care and shaping
PINE MOUNTAIN
PINE MOUNTAIN grows in the highlands of Central and Southern Europe, choosing the areas open to the sun with sandy or stony soil. There are also low trees, and branched shrubs, and ground cover plants. This pine has dark green needles and a lot of cones, giving it special elegance.
The most common varieties are mugus and pumilio. They have many decorative varieties, it is not difficult to buy seedlings, the prices are quite acceptable. These pines grow well in our climate, unpretentious, do not suffer from drought. Their strong branches do not break from snow, so they do not need a binding for the winter. The composition of the soil is undemanding, and the poor also tolerate a neutral or slightly alkaline pH reaction. Fewer species suffer from pests and diseases.
Pine trees mugus are dense creeping shrubs up to 1,5 m in height with a long dark green needles (up to 12 cm). They are the most unpretentious and persistent, they can even grow in partial shade. From this form, most varieties with long needles have occurred. On this basis, the leader Varella, besides it has a compact round crown with a width of up to 1,5 m. An interesting and spherical Pug with very short branches, to 10 years its dark with a greenish-blue crust ebb does not exceed in diameter 0,5 m. Similar to a pillow Mini Pug (half a meter in height with a diameter of 1 m) grows very slowly, causes stagnation of moisture and acidic soils. Hesse differs from this pine only in the size of the needles, the needles are slightly shorter, the length of 7-8 is cm.
Pine trees pumilio - also shrubs, but their needles are short 2-3,5 cm, shoots are outstretched, arranged densely, directed upward, the width of the bush exceeds the height. These pines can grow on dry and poor soils. Among the low varieties, the shade-hardy Gnome, bred more than 100 years ago, its crown is a dark green ball with a splendor, growing up to 2 m in height and width, branches are short. Twice below, Kobold is a shrub up to 1 m tall with a wide spherical crown formed by thick rigid branches, green needles.
Hampi - a ball or a wide-spread bush 0,8-1 m high with a crown diameter of up to 1,5 m. It grows very slowly, 3-4 cm per year. Does not suffer from stagnation of moisture and acidic soil.
There are among the mountain pines and varieties with an unusual color of the crown. For example, a low unpretentious variety Winter Gold needles in summer bright green, and in winter yellow with golden tint.
PINE BLACK, OR AUSTRIAN
PINE BLACK, OR AUSTRIAN, occurs in the mountains of Europe from Austria to the Balkans. Black is called for gray-black color of the bark, and Austrian for the place of growth. Usually, it settles on the southern slopes, rising to the mountains to 1500 m. This spectacular tree resembles a common pine, but differs more dense and fluffy needles of dense green color. Needles are long, 7-14 cm, very beautiful cones, yellow-brown, shiny. large. This pine is undemanding to the composition and quality of soils, but it grows better on calcareous, well drained. Zasu is houstoychiva, loves good lighting, while the shade tolerates better than other species.
High slender Fastigiata with a narrow pyramidal crown - a favorite of gardeners for over a century and a half. The shoots are stretched vertically upward, tightly adjacent to the trunk. It grows slowly, by the age of 15 it reaches 2 m in height and 0,6 m in diameter. Withstands very infertile, moderately dry soils, as well as acidic and alkaline.
Low trees with a narrow pyramidal crown, twisted branches, bluish dense and long needles are represented by varieties Molett, Green Rocket, Obelisk. Frank, Green Tower.
Wide pyramids or balls in the pyramid Nana 1,5-2 m. The branches are spreading, ascending, the needles are dense, up to 10 cm, very dark, growing slowly, according to 5 cm per year. This pine is photophilous, it can even die in the shade, does not like drying up the soil. Adult bushes are frost-hardy, but young ones sometimes freeze in severe winters. The correct oval shape of the crown is different Globose, its height is 2 m, diameter 3 m. Spielberg's fluffy and dense ball grows slowly, in 10 years its height is only 1 m, does not suffer from frosts. In the bush Pygmy very short and thick branches, this baby is only 0,3-0,5 m tall. And, finally, the marvelous Helga with a dense conical crown. Its numerous shoots are covered with small and long needles of pleasant green color, and young growths are creamy white. This pine prefers fresh loam, but agrees with the stony ground.
WEYMUTOV PINE
WEYMUTOV PINE is also good. This is a slender tree with a pyramidal crown, which seems light and delicate thanks to short branches that are horizontal from the trunk, and a long, slightly hanging, thin needles assembled in bundles of 5 pieces, rather than 2, like other pine trees. Needles are bluish-green, the bumps are narrow, similar to spruce, but much larger, 15-20 in length.
This pine originates from North America, where it occupies flat places on various soils, sometimes it rises to the mountains. At home, it is a fast-growing tall tree. Undemanding, takes root on any soil, although it prefers fresh sandy loam and loamy with good water supply. Photophilous, but reconciled with partial shade. He does not like only extremes - heat, drought and waterlogging. It tolerates our winters well; the branches do not break from snow. Weymouth pine has only one drawback, but a significant one — it suffers from a rust fungus.
Depending on the initial formation of the plant, there are also multi-barreled shrubs, and a low tree. There are many garden forms. Variety Radiata is most common, it is a squat dense dwarf pine, in height 1,5-2 m, width 2-2,5 m. Branches thin, thick, needles 7-9 cm, protruding, straight. Makopin - a bush with a round or conical crown. It grows slowly, the size of an adult plant is 1,5-2 m. The needles are bluish-green, the abundance of long cones even in very young plants gives an additional charm. Weymouth pine also has a shape with golden, silver-white, bluish needles.
Weymouth this pine was named in honor of the English navigator George Weymouth, who made two campaigns to the shores of America. It was he who brought her from his homeland to Britain in 1605 year.
If, by all indications, we are approached by Weymut's pine, but the danger of rust damage is great, grow a Balkan pine similar to it, it is also called the Rumelian pine. It is also unpretentious and rust is not affected at the same time, it suffers little from other diseases and pests, it is quite winter-hardy, undemanding to the composition and quality of the soil, drought-resistant and light-loving.
See also: Evergreen plants for the garden in winter for decorative purposes
SIBERIAN PINE
SIBERIAN PINE - a long-liver of Siberian forests, refers to cedar pine trees. This group combines several species with soft needles, collected in bunches of 5 pieces, and large edible nut seeds.
In common parlance Siberian pine is called Siberian cedar, which from a botanical point of view is incorrect. This mighty giant is up to 40 m high, often with several tops, with a dense crown, the upper branches of which are elevated, with a dense dark green long pine needles and large cones called cedar.
In nature, prefers sandy and loamy soils, but is also found on rocky and peat bogs, where it has low and almost creeping forms. Its age is long, 400 years is not the limit. It grows very slowly, so it will be pampered with your favorite nuts only after 50-60 years. The tree is very winter-hardy, even seedlings suffer severe frosts. At a young age, shade is hardy, the older he gets, the more he wants light.
Now this pine is quite easy to buy not only in Siberia, but also in the European part of the country, we sell seedlings from year to year, including those brought from taiga nurseries.
In this regard, we note that Siberian pine is the most vulnerable representative of conifers during transplantation. You need to buy plants in a container or copies with a large lump of land, prepared in advance for digging properly. In plants with open roots, the root system will inevitably be overdried and mycorrhiza at the roots is damaged.
Siberian scientists deduced low and compact decorative varieties of Siberian pine with various forms of crown: pyramidal (Ikar), globular (Ideal, Biosphere, Emerald), asymmetric (Oligarch). Appeared nuts and fruit varieties (President, Recorder), starting to bear fruit from 3-5 year after vaccination. All of them are able to grow in our conditions, but so far very very expensive.
Cedar pine (Korean cedar), or Manchurian, is widespread in the Far East, in Korea, China, Japan, where it grows in mixed forests, less often on mountain slopes. This is a slender tree with a sprawling, low-lowered crown, similar to the crown of a Siberian pine, but more delicate. In nature it reaches a height of 35-45 m, in our conditions it grows no more than 7 m.
This pine has thick open branches, the needles are very beautiful - long, up to 20 cm, bright green with a bluish tint.
In orchards fructifies with 20-30 years; cones are large, 17-20 in length and up to 8 cm in thickness, edible nuts, with a strong thick skin. Growth conditions and growth rates of VjZe are the same as for Siberian, and winter hardiness is somewhat lower, but quite sufficient for cultivation in the Non-Black Earth Region.
Dwarf pine, or cedar pine tree, - another variety of cedar pines. It grows in the mountains from Siberia to Japan, its shape is very variable. In the harsh conditions of the highlands, these are creeping, spreading shrubs no higher than 30 cm with flexible elastic branches that bend to the ground at low temperature. As the snow melts, they straighten, but the creeping shape is partially preserved. In areas with milder climates and gardens, these are small trees 3-5 m high with curved trunks, similar to a mountain pine.
Needles are fluffy, the length and color are very different in different specimens. The bumps are very beautiful at the time of dusting: male bright red, female with a purple hue. They are smaller in size than the Siberian pine, smaller ones and nuts themselves, but they are just as delicious and with a thin skin.
The elfin tree is undemanding to the conditions of existence, it can grow on sands, rocky scree, on poor, heavy, peat-podzolic soils. It grows slowly, and takes up a lot of space - it has a superficial root system. The plant is light-loving and at the same time shade-tolerant, content with natural moisture, watering is required only with prolonged drought, is reliably frost-resistant, and is not susceptible to serious diseases.
Among the few varietal forms, Glauca, a wide open shrub or a small tree with a height of 1,5-3 m with an irregularly shaped crown and bizarrely curved shoots is more common on sale; needles silvery-bluish, twisted.
DECORATIVE PINE - PLANTING AND CARE
Pine on the site - ego your friend for many decades. Therefore, the acquisition of seedlings, the choice of place of planting should be approached thoroughly. If the preparatory work is carried out, the plants are bought in a safe place and planted on time, the pines will not cause much trouble, while positive emotions are guaranteed to you.
CONTAINER RELIABLE
Choosing pine for a garden, you need to keep in mind that almost every variety has its own characteristics, preferences. Unfortunately, very often when choosing a plant, only its decorativity is taken into account. So what should you pay attention to when purchasing pine?
1. Buy only when you are sure that you can create the fluffy beauty conditions necessary for normal growth and development.
2. It is better to purchase seedlings grown in local nurseries, they are more adapted to the climatic conditions of the region.
3. Preference should be given to container plants, they usually get well, and you can plant them at any convenient time. They have a well-developed root system, intact mycorrhiza, which is formed at the ends of the roots, which helps the pine to get food and water even where there are few.
4. Saplings in burlap, with a dilapidated clod of earth, are always very weak, they have dried roots. The exception is the mountain pine, it reacts better to the transplant than others, therefore its specimens dug with an earthen lump do not take root well.
5. The age of the plant is also important. The younger it is, the easier it is for him to adapt to the conditions of the site and develop the corresponding root system - superficial or deep. It is best to buy 2-3-year-old seedlings, but 4-5-year-olds take root well.
HOW TO TRANSFER PINE FROM THE FOREST?
If you want to transplant the pine from the forest to your site, it is better to take it from a sunny place growing on a clearing or a forest edge. Small plants with a height of 30-40 are preferred.
The plant you like should be dug in a circle, as deep as possible, while trying not to cut off the main core root. Meter pines also take root, but digging them up is much more difficult - it will turn out to be very difficult. The extracted plant is watered, they are tied with gauze in 2 layers (you can plant it with it, the fabric will quickly rot) and transported to the planting site.
If the ground from the roots still crumbled, you can try to save the plant from desiccation by lowering the open roots into a clay chatterbox, and before planting, treat root stimulants. Unfortunately, such pines do not always get accustomed, they can look good for a long time after planting, and death becomes obvious only next year.
SUN, SPACE AND GOOD JAM
The best time for planting is considered the end of April - the beginning of May, when the ground has just thawed, but sap flow has not yet begun in the plants. If it did not work out in the spring, you have to wait until the end of August, then the second wave of root system growth begins, and it can quickly recover in the remaining warm time. Landing needs to be managed before the end of September.
Pine trees are vitally necessary sun and space. If several large trees are planted, the distance between them should not be less than 4 m, and between cedar pine trees, even more, 6-10 m, as many have to retreat from the buildings. Small pines are placed closer, through 1,5-2 m.
If the land on the site is suitable for growing the selected type of pine, the pit is digging based on the size of the root system, adding to its width 15-20 cm, to the length of 20-30, see. The plant in the container is carefully extracted without destroying the earth coma. Place in a pit without penetrating the root neck. Free space is filled with fertile soil.
If the soil is completely inappropriate, dig a meter pit and replace the soil. A large pit is prepared in advance so that the earth can settle. On heavy soil, drainage of 20 cm is made of broken brick, expanded clay or crushed stone, a layer of coarse sand is poured on top. Then it is filled into 2/3 with a mixture of turf soil, sand (or clay, depending on the composition of the soil), peat in a ratio of 3: 1: 1. The planting mixture should not be rich in organic matter, but light, water and breathable.
Since most pine species prefer neutral and slightly alkaline soils, 200-300 g of lime is poured on sandy soil to the bottom of the pit, and even better is dolomite flour, containing not only calcium, but also the magnesium required for these plants. Fall asleep with a pound of humus with 30-50 g / m2 potassium-phosphorus fertilizers.
Filling the pit with a mixture composed according to the structure of the soil, it is heavily poured with water, arranging a "swamp", or watered in several receptions. When the water is absorbed, a seedling is placed, covered with soil, dented, so that there are no voids, once again plenty watered. From the turf make circular edges, so that water does not spread during irrigation.
If you need to transplant the pine, the plant should be prepared for this in advance. To form a dense root coma repeatedly, it is better 4 times per season, to dig around the circumference of the crown, cutting the root system with a sharp shovel.
When transplanting in the fall, work begins in the spring, for transplanting in the spring - in the summer of the previous year. This is how they work with seedlings in nurseries.
KIDNEYS UNDER CONTROL
The first two to three years after planting, while the seedlings are still weakened, they need increased attention. Adults practically do not need care.
Once again planted pine trees watered once a week. It is useful to arrange a shower, pouring j the crown with water from a watering can with a nozzle. To retain moisture, raise the temperature of the soil, enrich it with nutrients, help mulch from wood chips, peat chips, sawdust or pine bark.
In hot weather it is necessary to prytenyat seedlings on the southern side of the cover material, paper, while the shelter should be well ventilated. Safely survive planting stress and quickly settle in a new place plants will help anti-stress drugs, immunomodulators, growth activators: epine, zircon, cytovit, etc.
Preparing the plant for wintering, especially if it is planted late, the root system should be insulated. To do this, peat is poured around the plant with a layer of 10 cm, covered with lapnik, non-woven material on top or put special covers on the frame so that the needles do not suffer from burns in the spring sun. Polyethylene and dense material can not be used, because under them the plants are roasted. When the pine trees completely take root, they will no longer need shelter.
It is not too late to protect the needles from burning with a shield in February, until the sun began to noticeably warm up. There will be a good result, if in the early spring, in several receptions, abundantly to sow a near-stump circle with warm water, then the land will soon recede and quickly earn roots, supplying the plant with moisture and nutrition.
EVERYONE - BY NEEDS
As the growing demand for moisture in pines changes. While they take root, they have to water with a strong drought, spending from 3 to 5 buckets of water on the plant. It is necessary to pour not under the root, but in a circle, at a distance of 20-30 cm from the trunk. Well water is allowed to warm up in the sun to 15 degrees. Adult pines are quite capable of providing themselves with moisture. However, washing the crown with sprinkling is useful at any age, it is carried out as often as possible, after sunset or early in the morning.
Large-sized plants - plants more than 2 m tall and over 5 years old - are planted from November to March. It is advisable to do this with the assistance of specialists and special equipment, having precisely determined the place of planting, because it is almost impossible to transplant the grown pine tree again. After planting a large-sized plant, the root neck should be elevated 10 cm above the ground, then it will deepen itself when the soil shrinks.
Pines, like other conifers, consume few nutrients and do not need abundant fertilizing. Dwarf varieties are especially carefully fertilized, they lose their main advantages in overfeeding: size and shape.
Young plants feed the first 2-3 year after planting. Fertilizers are introduced in April, as soon as active sap movement begins. You can divide the portion in two and add the second part at the beginning of the summer. For fertilizing use special fertilizers for conifers, including the necessary microelements, or complex mineral. They can be both liquid and granules. Liquid is digested faster by preparing a solution, it is poured into grooves along the perimeter of the crown; Granular spread on the surface and are embedded in the soil.
A good organic fertilizer for young pine trees is a rotted compost, which is poured into the trunks by a layer of 5-10 cm with shallow loosening of the soil. Adult plants have enough organic matter stored in the coniferous litter at the roots.
The trunk circle must be kept clean from weeds - carriers of diseases that give shelter to pests. Here again, mulching comes to the rescue.
During the season, decorative forms are desirable to comb out dead pine needles, especially if there are signs of fungal diseases. For this it is convenient to use small fan rakes; The collected needles are shaken off on some litter under a tree, and then burned.
At the end of winter - the beginning of spring, sanitary pruning is carried out, cutting branches “with a ring” with signs of illness, broken, dry. When there is a need to remove living branches, for example, to thin out the crown so that the sun's rays fall inside, you can cut them almost year-round, but little by little, no more than two per season, and it is better if they are 1-2-year-old shoots.
Manure, infusions of green weeds can not be used as a top dressing, especially in autumn, as they are rich in nitrogen, which causes rapid growth of young shoots that freeze in winter.
DO WE NEED A JAPANESE IN THE GARDEN?
As for the shape of the crown, the recommendations are ambiguous. You can let them grow freely, as in nature, but as the pines are very plastic, often there is a desire to radically change their appearance, for example, forming in the Japanese style nivaki, often called our garden bonsai. But before you start doing this kind of work, you need to think about whether it's worth starting at all.
Today there are many varieties on sale, among them it is not difficult to choose one that will match your ideas of beauty. The formation of garden bonsai is laborious, requires a lot of time, effort and only increases in volume as the object grows, it is difficult to correct errors, and sometimes it is impossible. In the process of long-term work, some shoots are cut completely, others are shortened to different heights, individual branches are removed or specially stretched to make them adopt a new position.
It is easier to form a simple neat, dense crown, keeping the pine growth in the right sizes. To turn the most stunted invisible seedlings into fluffy compact trees, you should pinch the growing shoots once a year - shortening their tops stimulates the growth of side branches. This should be done at the end of spring, when there is a rapid growth of buds laid down last year, new shoots are formed from them. At the moment when they are resinous “candles”, that is, they have finished growing, but have not yet managed to form needles, pinch the tips of young shoots to the desired length. After shortening, the wound is quickly tightened with resin, and the branch stops growing for a year.
In this case, remember, if you remove less than a third of the shoot, the growth is not held back as much as with a larger shortening. However, sharply slowing down the growth there is a risk on-site stump getting a scratchy ball. Therefore, to start better with the simplest options: shorten the shoots to the same size, say, a third or half the length. You can not let the shoot run at all, but break out the unwanted kidneys in the early spring, before they start growing.
Sometimes it is impossible to do without shaping at all, for example, in a pine tree, prickling of young growths is necessary to maintain the shape of the crown even in varietal plants. Sometimes pinching helps to achieve purely practical purposes, for example, the pine Pyramidalas thus form short and strong branches so that the crown does not fall apart under the weight of the snow.
See also: Garden spruce or pines, fir trees and juniper trees instead of Christmas trees for the New Year
DISEASES AND PESTS OF PINE
Pine trees suffer more often due to improper growing conditions, but they also have enough diseases and pests.
Rust of pine needles In spring, yellowish-orange spots and vesicles appear on the needles. In early summer, spores mature in them, after which the spots turn brown. Disputes infect intermediate hosts — coltsfoot, sow thistle, bellflower, mariannik, and the godson — and they hibernate on them, and again switch to pine trees in spring. The needles turn yellow and fall, the plants slow down in growth, they look like thinned out.
Preventive measures: the removal of weeds, especially intermediate hosts, as well as the destruction of severely infected plants.
ROOF BLADES. It mainly affects the Weymouth pine, Siberian and cedar elfin. On trunks and branches thickenings are formed, which turn into tears of the cortex, exuding tar. Infection occurs 2-3 years before the onset of signs of the disease, the intermediate host is currants, less often gooseberries. Through them, the needles of young shoots become infected. With a circular lesion, the upper part of the trunk or branches die.
Preventive measures: removal of diseased branches, spatial isolation of pine plantations from currants and gooseberries.
SHUUTTE ORDINARY. The name of the first word of the disease is translated from German as crumbling. Affects young plants, seedlings and seedlings do not live to 2 years. In the spring, the needles become brown, and on the underside there are black, shiny dashes arranged in parallel rows. In summer, mature spores infect conifers that grow nearby. The development of the disease is promoted by strong thickening and shading of plantations. The infection is stored in the infected needles.
Preventive measures: removal of diseased and fallen pine needles, better illumination of plants.
They reliably protect pine trees from rust and preventive spraying with copper preparations 1-2 times per season, in spring and autumn, as well as maintaining health with immunostimulants and micronutrient fertilizers for conifers - they increase resistance to infections.
SHUTUTE SNOW
After the snow falls on the needles, white dense plaque is visible, which eventually dries up. During the summer, the needles become light gray with black dots and crumble. Infection occurs in the previous fall. Especially dangerous is the disease for young or weakened plants. Rapidly spreads with thickening of plantings, slow melting of abundant snow cover.
Preventive measures: the same as for ordinary shute, in addition, it is desirable to accelerate the melting of snow.
The methods of combating rust and shute are the same. If the first signs of the disease are found, treatment with 1-2% Bordeaux fluid or other preparations containing copper. Spraying with these agents should be alternated with fungicides: pure color, abiga-peak, skor, and cardiocide. The treatment lasts a long time, until complete recovery.
FUSARIOSIS. Pathogens belong to soil pathogens that cause rotting of the root system. The needles turn brown and crumble, individual shoots turn yellow, the pine weakens. The disease occurs in low areas with poor drainage, in heavy clay soils. The main sources of infection are contaminated soil and planting stock.
Ways to control the uprooting of severely affected plants, followed by disinfection of the soil with fungicides: potato, baseazole, maxium or biopreparations: phytosporin-M, hamairo, alirin-B.
Aphorisms. HERMES.
These small insects strongly weaken the pine trees, feeding on the juice of young shoots. At the same time, they emit droplets of liquid containing sugar, the so-called honey dew, on which the black mushrooms later settle. Large settlements of pine brown aphids in spring are found on young shoots and needles. Individuals are winged and wingless, dark or brownish with glitter. Colonies of pine hermes are similar to small scraps of cotton wool, as these pests (peculiar aphids) are covered on the outside with white waxy twisted hairs, through which aerosol preparations do not pass.
Ways of struggle Spraying the whole plant with one of the insecticidal preparations: horn, carbofos, actara, commander, calypso, confidor, mospilan, spark, aktellik, using strictly according to the instructions.
PINE SQUARE, SHEETS, PINE BREAD, PINE BREAD. Caterpillars of these insects eat up tender pine needles, kidneys, young growths. If the damage is severe, the branches die massively.
Ways of struggle, as long as the caterpillars are few, often it is possible to simply collect them manually, if this is not possible, you will have to use insecticides, the choice is huge: confidor, fu-fanon, actellik, actara or biopreparations: phytoverm, lepididicide, bitoxybacillin.
CORRIDOR-TYPOGRAPH. This is the most dangerous pest for conifers these days. One consoles that young ornamental pine trees are uninteresting to him. However, he destroys large forest trees, especially for the firs.
Ways of struggle. Prophylactic spraying twice a season with chemical pesticides from the group of synthetic pyrethroids: 150, 247, 050 karate and others "using strictly according to the instructions.
To prevent the invasion of pests, we must carefully inspect the plants from 15 May until the end of June, during the growth of young shoots.
YOUR NURSERY KIDS
SAGITTARES FROM SIZES.
The most common and natural way of propagation of natural pines is seed, it is easy and accessible to everyone, if only managed to get hold of cones.
Seeds mature at the end of the second year after pollination and remain unlike 1,5-2. They are sown in October in pre-prepared beds (preferably with fresh soil) or in boxes, which have been dug in the bed, and have drainage holes. So they will pass a natural stratification. Falling seedlings will be significant, but they will grow steadfast, unheeded.
You can sow seeds and houses, previously hardened in the refrigerator at a temperature of 2-7 degrees in wet sand. For ordinary pine and dwarf pine 1-2 months are enough, for Siberian and Korean pines - 4-6 months. Sowing is carried out in April. Sown in boxes with a loose, moderately moist substrate. This can be a mixture of sheet land, sand and peat in a ratio of 3: 1: 1 or just sand and peat, taken in equal quantities. From above it’s good to lay out a little coniferous litter collected in the forest.
In the tanks are required drainage and drainage holes. Soil and seeds are treated with fungicides to protect against fungal diseases. Seeds are laid out over the surface through 2-5, see pressed to the soil, sprinkled with peat in a layer of 1 cm, covered with a film, creating a greenhouse effect. Lighting should be sufficient, but diffused, because in the bright sun, burns of the emergent shoots are possible. Within a month, until the seedlings are formed, the soil does not dry out. Then the film is removed.
During the first year, seedlings build up the root system and develop very slowly. If the plantings are dense, then from April - May next year they are planted in loose nutrient soil in open ground or in pots so that the seedlings form the crown and root system correctly. With a careful transplant (with a lump of earth, without exposing the roots), young plants easily take root.
Subsequently, the seedlings are watered, shade from the sun. During active growth, you can feed up with weak solutions of mineral fertilizers, but usually enough to pour in fresh fertile soil. From the second year, the growth accelerates and through 2-3 the grown-up pine trees are transplanted to a permanent place.
PRIVACY OF BEAUTY.
Only vegetative reproduction guarantees the repetition of the characteristics characteristic of the variety. And with cuttings, ornamental pines reproduce with rare exceptions badly. Cedar stanica is capable of rooting creeping branches, long pressed to the ground. This feature can be used for multiplication by layers.
However, most ornamental varieties are vaccinated for the maternal or related species, most often for 3-5-year-old seedlings of common pine. It makes it possible to obtain original forms - balls, cascades, and cedar pine to accelerate fruiting.
Self-propagation by cuttings is a deliberately losing event, they take root with great difficulty, and in general there are very few varieties that can take root, mainly they must be found in mountain pine. The rooting process is very long, involves the use of root formation stimulants, a lower-heated greenhouse, and mandatory shelter for the winter.
Cedar nuts stored in the dacha for sowing are extremely attractive for mice, so it is better to bury them in the winter by covering the pan with a riddled bottom. By the end of April, they will already be on. Emerged sprouts, so as not to glue the birds, should be covered with a metal mesh or lapnikom.
Pine - planting and care: video
© Author: T.Kazakova
Below other entries on the topic "Dacha and garden - with their own hands"
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- Growing peas in the country: grandmother's prescriptions for care
- CHIA: we grow ourselves - reviews, planting and care
- Cowberry (photo) - cultivation, planting and care
- Beans in the country.
- Tarragon (photo) cultivation, planting and care
- Growing asparagus without seedling
- Growing radishes in the Voronezh region
- Kirkazon clematis or finnik - cultivation and benefits
- Pepino - growing in the Urals: my reviews
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Is it possible to grow pine Oculus Draconis in a pot indoors? After all, how nice it would be to have our own Christmas tree every year for the New Year holidays.
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Dragon's Eye pine (Pinus densiflora Oculus Draconis) can be kept in pots, containers, or bonsai style. This is a traditional breed for dwarf tree cultivation. It is often grown as a small tree or shrub with an umbrella crown.
CONDITIONS AND CARE
When keeping it in a container, you need to remember some requirements.
The main thing is proper wintering: a cool (+5-10 degrees) bright place and reduced watering.
This variegated pine is light-loving. If there is insufficient lighting, its spectacular coloring may disappear.
The plant tolerates different substrate compositions, but does not tolerate drying out. The need for moisture is greater at a young age, when rapid development occurs.
Over time, an upright growing trunk becomes bent (often tilted), a flat top and a spreading crown of irregular shape appear. The needles may turn yellow in winter. As a tree ages, its bark cracks, revealing a layer of orange color.
IF you look at the pine from above, the alternating yellow and green stripes on the needles resemble the eye of a dragon, hence the name of the variety.
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How to grow a pine on the site? Mikhail D
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Michael, do you need it? This is a real breeding ground for pests! By the way, they winter well in its bark. Another thing is spruce. She scares them away, especially the "lovers" of apple trees.
I.I VETROV Leningrad region
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From my own experience I know how difficult it is for pine to take root in a garden plot. II The first experiments were unsuccessful, but now three green beauties grow on the site. Dig a small pine along with a lump (in pines, the tap root goes vertically down deep - sometimes half a meter, it is advisable to save it) from the nearest fishing line and plant it on the shady side of the site. It is best to plant in thickets of tall grass or small shrubs so that they cover the tree from the sun until it enters into force. In extreme cases, shade the landing with some kind of shield. In no case do not fertilize the pine with anything - neither manure nor compost. Plant a little on a knoll in the south-north direction, without deepening the root neck. Water well after planting and generally water regularly on hot days. For the first year or two, it may seem that the pine is not growing at all, but then the situation will change in the opposite direction.
And the last tip: do not plant conifers near buildings and wires. A small hurricane and they can be uprooted, after which they may not land very well ...
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Tell me, what about my mountain pine Mugus (pictured)?
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- The needles can die off due to the fact that the root system of the plant does not work well (for example, it was dried or frostbitten).
If you planted a plant with a lump of peat, which was in a pot, the roots quickly dry out. In April, as the soil thaws, puncture the root system in several places and add loam or pour a loamy loam into it. For at least 2 weeks, shade the plant on the sunny side with a shield of cardboard, slate or burlap. Spray the crown with water, adding Fitosporin to it every 2 weeks (according to the instructions), so that fungal diseases do not develop from moisture on dying needles. When watering the plant do not fill. Feed only special fertilizers for conifers.
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Pine with a blaze
Four years ago, a Canadian pine yearling was planted in a well-lit place. He looked healthy, jovial, green, quickly got accustomed to the new place and soon began to grow. Now the tree height is already about 2 m and raslapisty enough for its age. And very, very much, one might say, fluffy. It was only last fall that I noticed that right in the middle of the trunk he suddenly had some strange "foci" for some reason the needles turned yellow, which now partially crumbled.
So my green pine stands with a red-yellow stain-bald spot in the middle. What is she missing? Maybe she got sick with something? I will add that my land is good - oily, fertile. Two other pine trees (ordinary), planted earlier, grow without any problems.
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For some reason, the shoots of the conifers in my garden are now pale green. As if they do not have enough nitrogen. What is it?
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If the coniferous plant stopped growing, turned yellow, sheds needles - then you need to look for reasons. The first, and most important, can be in the soil. Conifers grow well on acidic, weakly acidic and neutral. If there are horsetail on the plot, horse sorrel, moss, sedge, mocryca - the soil is acidic. Nettle, wheat grass, clover - alkaline. It is necessary to use means for acidification. For example, "Agrecol" is an acidifying fertilizer for conifers. It needs to be scattered (120 g / m 2) under the plants in the spring.
Packages (1,2 kg) are enough for 10 sq. M. m. Then pour water abundantly. If necessary, repeat the procedure in 3 months.
In this case, the plant is treated with special preparations (according to the instructions).
The third probable cause is the lack of trace elements.