Growing thick-walled peppers in the suburbs
TURNING THE FAIRY TALE IN THE BEAST
Salad pepper, also called Bulgarian, is one of those cultures that has reliably strengthened in the hearts of truck farmers. However, many have the impression, that in Moscow suburbs to grow thick-walled peppers is more difficult, than tasty and juicy tomatoes.
Believe me, if there is a desire, then there will be pepper.
COOK OF THICK-WALLED PEPPERS
To obtain thick-walled fruits, choose the appropriate varieties. This year I liked the early large-fruited Danny and Goldene Mutter, middle-ripening Appetizing Miracle and Arcano. Very unusual were Nocturne and Africa, which, as they matured, changed the color of the fruit from black to red-brown and black-malignant. And strangely enough, despite the vagaries of the weather, pleased and late, with the fruits of chocolate Sweet Chocolate. It was thick-walled peppers that finally gave the full measure of aivar (baked pepper baked on an open fire) - it turns out simply terrific, juicy, with a light touch of smoking.
Pepper belongs to the same family as the tomatoes - solanaceous, so some stages of "growing up" of peppers and tomatoes are similar. However, I sow peppers much earlier, in early February.
Seeds are disinfected with an intensive pink solution of potassium permanganate 20 min, washed with cold water, then hot (60 °), and so 4-5 times, after which I spread into pots with a soaked, steamed, word, prepared soil. I cook the earth in the same way as for tomatoes - 1 / 2 humus and 1 / 4 sod land and peat. I add ash, eggshell (if any) and mix.
Seeds are sown on 1-2 pieces in a pot of 0,5 l to a depth of about 1 cm, then cover the ground, sprinkle with snow, cover with cellophane and transfer to a warm place (23-28 °). And every day I "walk" - I open it for airing.
There were sprouts? Immediately rearrange the pots under the daylight lamps (from the top of the plant to the light source should be 15 cm), but the temperature while reducing it to 16 °.
IMPORTANT. The roots of the pepper must be kept warm (20-21 °). In my case, I place racks with seedlings, closed foil-foamed plastic, near the battery (the window - in one glass). Thus, the roots are warm, and the aboveground part is in the cool.
If two potent plants develop in the pot and choose a leader is difficult, I leave everything. And I put it in one hole. Strangely enough, they feel great in such conditions, incomparably better than the plants that survived the pick.
IMPORTANT. My peppers are in plastic boxes, I pour water in there - bottoming is obtained. Roots stretch to moisture, the root system develops, and the top layer of soil remains dry - thus, there is no attack from the black leg. I'm not fanatical - twice a week. So the root system is not damaged. Pepper is very sensitive to her injuries, which is why I do not pick up the plants.
In the early stages, I do not feed peppers, since in the prepared soil there was humus, ash, peat - seedlings are enough of what was originally laid.
GREENHOUSE IS NOT OBLIGATORY
My greenhouse is occupied with tomatoes, and peppers have nothing left to do but bear fruit outdoors, though under cover. In the spring, when it's cool, I spread the film and the non-woven material around the arcs. But last summer, the plants had to be covered with netback every evening, because at a temperature below 13 ° growth and development of fruits are inhibited, and with sudden fluctuations in temperature and humidity, the plant can discard buds and ovaries.
Most importantly, when transplanting into the ground, do not bury the plants, as we used to do with tomatoes. Pepper poorly and slowly builds up additional roots. I plant the peppers at a distance of 30-50 cm from each other.
Culture loves air-permeable soil. At me it is sandy, moreover, the holes are abundantly filled with humus and ash, spilled with a solution of potassium permanganate, so that the plants feel comfortable. Unless, as necessary, the soil is loosened, without injuring the roots of plants, and I water twice a week with warm water.
IMPORTANT. If you use mulch, then it can be decomposed no sooner than the soil warms up.
DO NO HARM
Over the season, I feed the plants several times with herbal mash. More is not required, because in the holes quite a decent amount of organic.
As for the formation, I try not to interfere in the development of plants (in the open ground they are not as high as in the greenhouse). Perhaps my opinion is not true, but I am not complaining about the crops. I delete (pinch) only the leaves located below the first fork so that they do not touch the ground, and I do this when the fruits begin to fill.
Due to sufficient nutrition, the plants constantly bloom and tie fruit, and ripen regularly I take off.
Pair of small hairs during the cultivation of pepper
For all the time of vegetation, I do not treat peppers from pests or diseases, they are not. Is that one-time sprayed with boric acid (South on 15 l of water) - to increase yield.
Deformed fruits in pepper are formed if the temperature and humidity do not meet the requirements of the culture. But if they are provided with normal conditions, only the last peppers in the season will be deformed - due to the difference in daytime and night temperature in the fall.
© Author: L. GANZEN Moscow region
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