The secret of successful tree planting? The "right" pit!

Inexperienced gardeners hurry as soon as possible to lay the garden and at the same time miss an important point - the advance preparation of the landing holes. But this depends largely on whether the seedlings will survive.

TIME FOR LANDING

In the normal spring, the planting season for fruit seedlings ends in the third decade of April.

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If the spring is very warm - a decade earlier.

Very cold - a decade later.

For spring planting, the pit is ideally prepared in autumn. It is important that the soil mixture, which is filled with this pit, managed to settle well. In addition, the open ground in the depth of the pit is "ventilated" under the influence of the atmosphere and becomes loose, air-permeable, and roots of plants. Soil from the pit, lying for a while in the pile, becomes loose, well fills the voids between the roots when planting the seedling.

But what if the idea of planting appeared only in the spring? If you're lucky, and spring will be early, you can dig a pit in March - a month before landing, the deadline - for 2 weeks.

By all means

So, digging a hole ...

For apple and pear, the appropriate depth of the landing pit is 80-100 cm, diameter - 60-80 cm; for cherries, cherries, plums, cherry plums - respectively 60 and 40, see.

The top fertile layer is put in a separate pile on one side, the infertile soil on the other side of the pit, or even better - scatter in the aisles of the garden.

If the site is pulled back, first remove the sod stratum, which should be placed on the bottom of the pit (with the suture turned upside down). It will rot and become an additional fertilizer.

On heavy clay soil drainage by a layer in 20-30 is required. As a result, after strong rains, water will not stay for a long time in the root area. For drainage, gravel or pebbles are best. You can use coarse-grained sand (gravel).

On a light sandy soil in the lower part of the pit, it is desirable to put the clay layer in 20 cm (it is well tamped). This kind of "clay castle" will hold water, not allowing it to quickly escape from the roots.

The main volume of the pit is filled with a mixture of fertile soil with organic (humus or overripe manure) and phosphorus-potassium fertilizers (see table). It is better that the mixture hit the bottom half of the pit - so the roots of the planted seedling will not contact the fertilizer for the first time.

Determine the distance Most often trees in the garden are planted so that the distance between rows is large, and between plants in the row - less. With age, branches of crowns of neighboring trees in the rows close, and in the aisles there is a free "corridor" width from 1 to 3 m. In industrial gardens this "corridor" serves mainly for mechanized care of the garden. But in the amateur garden it is important: the branches of trees are better illuminated, the horticulturist is easier to cut the crown, fruits.

And more: when laying the garden, the rows are directed from the north to the south (and not from the west to the east). Then the crowns will be more evenly illuminated by the sun.

FACT: IF THE SOIL ON THE FERTILIZED PLOT - IT IS SUFFICIENT TO PICK UP SUCH SIZE so that the roots in it are freely placed, do not bend and in any case are not looked up. ON THE CLAY AND HEAVY SOILS THE PITS SHOULD BE A MORE DIAMETER AND AT THIS MILE ON THE DEPTH.

culture	Organic fertilizers (compost, reparted manure)	Phosphate fertilizers (superphosphate)	Potash fertilizer
Apple, pear	15-30 kg	150-200 g	60 g
Cherry, plum, cherry plum, cherry	10-15 kg of compost	150 g	60 g
Honeysuckle	12-16 kg	30 g	15 r \|
Sea buckthorn	8-10 kg	60 g	30 g

5 errors when preparing the pit for planting a tree

Let's talk about the main mistakes that inexperienced gardeners allow in the preparation of planting holes.

1. Mix the soil layers

Often they throw all the earth from a hole in one heap. As a result, an infertile layer (and this can be sand, clay, stones) is mixed with the fertile layer. After planting, the seedlings need loose and maximally fertile soil to restore inevitably damaged suction roots, and in clay and stones this will not be easy. This is why only a fertile substrate is suitable for backfilling roots.

2. Make fresh manure

In no case can not do this! The manure must be well reparted. Otherwise, it can burn the roots of the seedling.

3. The lack of organic compensates for a double dose of mineral fertilizers

And even triple. And they put it dry and immediately put a seedling on top. Roots, in contact with fertilizer granules, get serious burns. The fabrics are bare, the roots begin to rot. It is not hard to guess what this will turn out for a plant in the long run.

4. Dig a hole in the place of the dead diseased tree

At least 1 m is desirable to retreat from the old place. And from the planting hole of an uprooted tree, one should select the soil, the remaining roots, and fill the recess with fresh soil. And do not plant a tree in this place for at least 2 years. If the situation is such that the apple tree has nowhere else to plant, then the old pit needs to be increased - make it 1,5 × 1,5 m in size, remove the soil, lay a 10-15 cm layer of expanded clay drainage on the bottom and fill it with fresh nutrient substrate .

5. Plant a tree in the place where potatoes or tomatoes grew.

After such precursors fruit can be affected by certain diseases (for example, bacterial root cancer). But if there is no other way out, carefully treat the area after the vegetables: remove all plant residues, dig deep, add fertilizer. But it is better to leave the area prepared in such a way to "rest" for a year.

Add to the note: Feed the trees

When the soil recoils, unburden the young trees so that they do not block the bark. And as soon as the ground dries, add fertilizers and dig in the trunks. On insufficiently fertile plots (and if the fall did not make organic), the norm of manure (or compost) is 10 kg per 1 sq. M. Fertilizers should be embedded in the soil to a depth of no more than 12 cm at a distance of 20-30 cm from the stem. Then thicken the trunks with peat. The dose of nitrogen fertilizer depends on the age of the plantations and the area of the near-bottom circle (see table).

DOSES OF FERTILIZERS IN CALCULATION ON ONE TREE
Year after planting	Drilling circle diameter (m)	Nitrogen (g)	Manure or compost (kg)
1-2	1,5-2	12-15	10-15
3-4	2,5	20-25	15-20
5-6	3	28-35	20-30
7-8	3,5	38-48	30-40

Note: Do not miss the weevil

When the average daily air temperature reaches + 5 degrees, adult beetles of apple cvetode (weevil) come out of winter shelters (they hibernate in the crevices between the base of the trunk and the soil, cracks in the bark, on the trunks of trees, under fallen leaves).

In the early days of the weevil are inactive, but with an increase in temperature to + 10 hail, become active, settle in the garden, laying eggs in buds.

Larvae appear from the eggs, which destroy the pestle and stamens of the flower. The fruit from this flower will be gone.

In some years, beetles destroy a good half of the crop, or even more.

Therefore, it is important not to skip the first treatment against the flowers. While the pests are still half-aseptic, they can be destroyed by chemical means - in March, before budding buds, sprinkle the trees with Fastak, Novaktion, or Fufanon (as instructed). And it is possible to shake the adult beetles from the trees on the litter (while they are fragile on the branches). Do it better in the evening or early morning.

© Authors: Alexander KARPITSKY, Associate Professor of the Department of Fruit and Vegetable Breeding BGSHA, Cand. с-х Sciences, Irina GURYEVA, Научн. Comp. FNTS them. Michurina, Nikolai CHROMOV, Cand. of Sciences, Raisa MATVEEVA, Cand. Biol. science

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