Planting carrots - the best ways and reviews about them
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How best to plant carrots
In search of the most convenient way to plant a particular crop, it sometimes takes more than one year. And how much effort is spent on this, how much planting material is lost ...
But to achieve the desired result, sometimes it is useful not to focus on any one option.
My whole life is connected with the garden, but I still find something new for myself or, conversely, the forgotten old and I apply it with pleasure on my site. You read, as if talking to people. What good are their letters, so that readers write not only about achievements and experiments, but also about mistakes and failures. For example, not everyone can immediately make friends with carrots. I think this is often because the villagers can not decide how to plant it. I use several methods.
Method one
In the off-season free time is more, so I paste the seeds on toilet paper. I cut it into pieces in length of 2 m, but I do not cut them along into halves, as some truck farmers do: first, it's inconvenient then to mess with them (they also strive because of their small breadth to twist), and secondly, Seed material on such strips can not be rationally placed.
Here, after all, one desire to stick more seeds on paper is not enough - you need to think in advance about how to put all this in the garden, and what will come of it later.
I do this: I plan a pen on the tapes of a point every 5 cm in three rows in staggered order. Then I make starch paste, and I want my consistency to be the same as that of fruit jelly. I take seeds (I think it's better to buy them, because they are already sold), I put it on the saucer, and the paste (it should be completely cooled down by this time) is poured into a normal capron cap for three liter cans.
I take a match, I dip it with a head into the paste and put it on a droplet on the paper, on the points marked with a pen.
In search of the most convenient way to plant a particular crop, it sometimes takes more than one year. And how much effort is spent on this, how much planting material is wasted ... But to achieve the desired result, it is sometimes useful not to focus on any one option.
My whole life is connected with the garden, but I still find something new for myself in the Dacha, or, conversely, forgotten old and I apply it with pleasure on my site. I read the journal as if I'm talking to people. What good are their letters, so that readers write not only about achievements and experiments, but also about mistakes and failures. For example, not everyone can immediately make friends with carrots. I think this is often because the villagers can not decide how to plant it. I use several methods.
See also: Planting carrots in the open ground
Way of planting carrots №1
In the off-season free time is more, so I paste the seeds on toilet paper. I cut it into pieces in length of 2 m, but I do not cut them along into halves, as some truck farmers do: first, it's inconvenient then to mess with them (they also strive because of their small breadth to twist), and secondly, Seed material on such strips can not be rationally placed.
Here, after all, one desire to stick more seeds on paper is not enough - you need to think in advance about how to put all this in the garden, and what will come of it later.
I do this: I plan a pen on the tapes of a point every 5 cm in three rows in staggered order. Then I make starch paste, and I want my consistency to be the same as that of fruit jelly. I take seeds (I think it's better to buy them, because they are already sold), I put it on the saucer, and the paste (it should be completely cooled down by this time) is poured into a normal capron cap for three liter cans.
I take a match, dip it with my head in a paste and put a drop on the paper at the points marked with a fountain pen (enough for five drops at a time). Then I touch the seeds with the head of the match (they adhere perfectly to it) and transfer them to the points with the paste - and so on, all three rows.
The work is not difficult, rhythmic, it goes fast, it gives pleasure. I hang the filled ribbon on the open door of the cabinet, and in the morning I wind on my palm, fix it with a paper clip or rubber band together with an empty packing from the seeds (in order to know what sort is prepared for planting), put it in a bag and clean it before sowing.
I won’t tell you how to prepare beds, everyone knows without me, this is nothing special. The main thing is that they are high (I have bumps made of slab) and do not need to bring fresh manure into them - only crumbly (i.e. well-rotted) humus and ash. On the beds, I make three shallow longitudinal grooves, taking out the ground from them (I immediately put it in a bucket) with an ordinary garden scoop 10 cm wide - the most convenient size for such a thing. And the distance between them, by the way, is 25-30 cm.
Then I shed grooves with a solution of potassium gu-mat (one cap on 10 L of water) or simply sprinkled with ashes. And then carefully roll out rolls with seeds in these grooves. Since the earth is damp, the paper immediately sticks to the ground, as if an adhesive tape. From the bucket I fill the grooves with the previously removed earth, and with a thin layer.
Why from the bucket? Yes, because I feel with my hands how much earth it is necessary to pour out, besides, pebbles with lumps do not fall into the furrows. Previously, just covered the grooves from the edges, and pasted seeds strayed. Now everything is clear.
For beacons (when I do not forget) I place one seed of radish in each groove in each 30 cm and one head of onion-sowing: they rise much earlier than carrots and do not interfere with it, and I have an opportunity to use them in salads as early as possible.
Crops immediately cover with nonwoven material. But after a week I clean it, I go through the flat-top in the intervals between the rows and again I return the shelter to the place. I do this several times before emergence. You say, superfluous operation? And it's just the opposite: thanks to this method, then I do not need to weed and thin out the shoots! Moreover, since the aisles are wide (those who have the size of the garden allow, I advise doing them according to 40-50 cm), it is convenient to grow carrots in the second half of the summer. After that, there are very few weeds on the beds, and they can be pulled out without problems in a few minutes.
As for watering, I do it only after the tops grow by at least 15 cm. True, if it’s really hot, I spend watering earlier, with a lower height of tops. And I water very abundantly, literally pour water in the beds so that the moisture goes deeper to the roots - at least 25 cm. But since the first half of August I haven’t watered at all.
Once she frowned: in August there was real heat, and I watered the beds with carrots in the same way as everyone else. Purely on the machine, she did this - she wanted the plants to not burn out in such heat. And who wants to? Well, the carrot tops were green, vigorous, I was very pleased with it. I thought that the root crops would be large. And she began to harvest - all the carrots turned out to be of medium size, moreover, the cores were very large, and the edges, on the contrary, were thin. As it turned out later, it also turned out to be unsweetened, and was stored poorly.
Way of planting carrots №2
This option is also uncomplicated, and no preparatory work is needed here (except, of course, preparing the beds and grooves on it). I am preparing starch jelly, but this time it is thinner than fruit. I cool it so that it is warm, pour it into a large iron mug with a spout, gradually pour out seeds there in an even layer (a portion - two packs of each), carefully stir everything with a wooden stick and immediately go to the garden: gently pour the jelly with seeds over grooves. I do this not quickly, but not slowly either - 1 liter of paste is enough for 9-10 meters of furrow. And then I sow the beacons, as already described above. That's it, the landing is over.
For me, these two methods are the most convenient and easy. I think that other elderly gardeners will agree with me - their backs and knees will vote for themselves.
And since during the care of plantings the forces are saved, it becomes possible to closely monitor the pests of carrots.
And then earlier you spin in the garden so that you, for example, rejoice at the cherry blossoms and forget that this is also a signal of the beginning of the summer of the carrot fly. For many years I have been using liquid ammonia to combat it: 1-2 caps on an eight-liter watering can, from which I pour directly on the beds (you can add a little soap to this solution - to stick the liquid to the tops). After three days, repeat the procedure. Ammonia is sold in a pharmacy, is inexpensive, and the product is effective and not harmful. In addition, ammonia fertilizer.
Another way from a carrot fly: I buy liquid tar soap, I divorce it in water and also walk along the beds with a watering can. And birch tar is also sold in the pharmacy, I moisten the rags with them and spread them along the rows - its smell confuses the carrot fly, and it no longer pays attention to planting.
For a summer meal I plant such grades as Caramel and Dordognecharacterized by a short ripening period - only 70-80 days. And for winter storage I sow at the beginning (and even in the second half) of May Canada, Nandrin, Narbonne, Dayan, Samson and Ramoswith a ripening period of 120-140 days.
See also: Landing onions with carrots
Way of planting carrots №3
This is the old grandmother's method of sowing. I place the seeds in a cotton cloth, tie it with a knot, leaving a tail, and abundantly moisten with water. Somewhere on the edge of the garden I dig a dimple with a depth of 20-25 cm, pour a little water into it and put a knot. Bury it, leaving the same tail on top. In order not to lose, I put a peg to secure too. I leave everything in this form for three or four days, watching the humidity of the earth. If it is not overdried, during this time the seeds will be poured.
I take out the bundle, scatter the seeds on the newspaper, lightly dry it and begin to sow, pre-mixing them with sand, so that there is no thickening of the planting.
Further care - as in the first two cases. Only now it’s necessary to thin out the landing — perhaps even twice. I must say that this is also a very good way - germination is excellent, but I use it only if time trouble comes in spring.
Yes, I forgot to say about top dressing. The first time I treat carrots three weeks after germination: in 10 liters of water I breed 1 tbsp. l potassium sulfate, 1 tbsp. l double superphosphate and 1 tsp. urea. For 1 square. m beds I spend 4 liters of this tool. I spend the second dressing in two weeks: in 10 liters of water I breed 2 tbsp. l ammofoski and 1 tbsp. l potassium sulfate. Consumption - 5 liters per square. I feed all fertilizing on moist soil under the roots.
See also: Joint landing of onions and carrots - negative and positive reviews
WHY CARROTS LOVE BOARDS?
On what only sometimes it is not necessary to go to get rid of such boring work as thinning a carrot. But it turns out that there is a way that at the same time allows us to solve this problem and raise productivity.
Finally, I decided to share the experience of planting carrots. Moreover, the method that will be discussed now is completely suitable for other related to it, the same "small-seeded" crops, like dill and parsley. I grow them all, by the way, in narrow beds 40-45 cm wide and 8 m long (the distance between them is from 60 to 80 cm). My soil is loam, i.e. in a wet state it crumbles, and as the sun bakes, it sticks together in clods. But my crops are still good. How do I achieve this?
In the spring, after cultivating the soil with a cultivator, I form in the garden by two laces the sides of future beds of height 5-10 cm, so that during irrigation the water does not go into the aisle. Then, using a flat cutter at a distance of 10 cm from the sides, I make two grooves 5 cm deep (there is a gap between them somewhere in 20-25 cm) and water them abundantly from a watering can without a nozzle, so that there is water there.
When it is absorbed, an evenly swollen bottom forms at the grooves, which is important when placing the seed there: it will all lie on the same level.
After that, proceed to the preparation of seeds. I soak them for three to four hours in very warm water (so that the essential oils are washed off), and then I dry them to a flowing state, spreading them out in a single layer on the newspaper. Then I fill each half-liter jar (maximum by one-third) with dry sand, then pour the seeds to the brim, mix everything well, and proceed to plant.
It looks like this. I grab a full handful of sand and quickly sprinkle it to the bottom of the groove. Moreover, one such portion is enough for about a meter of the furrow, and so evenly I go through the whole bed. Especially convenient is the fact that sand with seeds can be seen very well on dark, wet ground, so it is easy to adjust the flow of seed. Scattered, now cover the grooves with a layer of loose mixture of peat and humus (and if they are not enough, add wet sand to them) with a thickness of 1,5-2 cm and compact it with a flat cutter. All carrots sown. At the same time for one bed I have one standard bag of seeds.
I do not cover the crops with anything, since I can only go to the dacha on weekends, or in the worst case, drop by for a few hours on weekdays. Then I water the plantings from the watering can with the nozzle only in rows, so in the middle and along the edges of the beds weeds hardly grow, and if they come out where, I easily cut them with a plane cutter - because the space between the rows allows you to do this without any problems. Shoots of carrots appear at a distance of about 3-5 cm from each other. And later, after the growth of the first true leaves,
easily thin out plantings for the first and last time, leaving gaps between shoots of 5-6 cm and aligning the lines in one line. At the same time, weeding and loosening the rows. If there was a longer gap between seedlings, then I am not at all upset: the largest carrot will grow there. Well, then everything is as usual: loosening, watering and other work. Yes, I forgot to say that the beds are always oriented from north to south, so that the plants are better illuminated by the sun and, therefore, give a larger crop. And carrots, by the way, always grow large, flat. Especially on my clay, mid-season varieties such as Ramosa, Samson, Losinoostrovskaya and the Queen of Autumn are good at working. The yield from each bed (depending, of course, on the variety) is about 4-6 buckets of large root crops and a bucket of one and a half small and clumsy. The latter sometimes appear from seedlings hatching after weeding-thinning.
I tried to plant carrots with the distance between the rows in 30 cm, and placed onions in the middle. The experience was unsuccessful: in the period of growth of the onions, the carrots began to drive out such tops that it closed up, completely shading its neighbor. Accordingly, with the harvest of onions, I then flew.
© Author: I. ARKHIPOVA Dzerzhinsk, Nizhny Novgorod region
More than three are not going to!
For a long time, I sowed carrot seeds from my hand - as if I salted the earth with them. The seedlings were good, but, of course, they had to thin out later. And thanks to the advice, I decided to try using paper tapes for planting. I did that for two years. What can I say? Convenient, in general, but then constantly had to plant new seeds, because plantings were too rare. And in the third year, the rows turned out to be so liquid that I reseeded the garden bed in the old way - randomly. And from this whole story I made the following conclusion: worms recycle the seeds glued to it in the ground along with paper. That is why seedlings are rare.
Now I land in a different way.
- I pour out all the seeds on a saucer, take two or three things at once with my fingers and stick them into the ground.
- I stick in the following “company”, having slightly deviated from the first one, and so I attach all the other seeds.
Yes, I do not argue, this is a long occupation, but the carrot grows thick and with thinning fewer problems. And in general it is nice to know that everything here depends only on my hands: how much I plant, it will grow so much.
This work in itself is simple, even brings pleasure. And in order to be less tired, I took a low block of wood, nailed a plate on it and, sitting on this “throne”, without hurrying, quietly planting seeds. And then, sitting on the same block of wood, I spend the weeding of the carrot beds. Looking at me, the neighbor began to plant the flow in the same way. And the same block of wood with a seat mate.
© Author: Antonina Sergeevna STEPANOVA, Kineshma, Ivanovo region
Planting carrots - video
© Author: Raisa Gerasimova Kaluga Region.
Below other entries on the topic "Dacha and garden - with their own hands"
- Planting carrots in 4 stages from a carrot fly (Smolensk region)
- Cultivation of varicoloured varieties of carrots
- "Lazy" way of growing even and large carrots
- Way of sowing carrots - advice and feedback about it
- How early to "wake up" carrot seeds - my method
- Carrot variety The Queen of Autumn - growing in the suburbs
- Growing carrots in the Moscow region - planting and care: to grow even and beautiful
- Yellow carrots - photo varieties and their description
- Watering carrots with kerosene - my reviews
- Early carrots in the Urals - planting and recommended varieties
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I want to share an economical way of growing carrots: planting a little space takes, forces and time are saved, and a good return is obtained.
I prepare the garden bed for carrots 70 × 300 cm as follows: in the spring I pour three buckets of rotten chicken manure and a bucket of ash there, then I dig it all up. Before planting, I do not soak the seeds and do not warm them up (I have no time to do this, I am a working pensioner), I just mix them well, adding moist soil to them, and distribute them evenly over the garden bed. I cover with a thin layer of a mixture of humus, fertile soil and sand (1: 1: 1) from above. And there are no problems with germination - the sprouts go together!
The main thing is that the rows are not thickened, nothing needs to be thinned out. It remains only in a timely manner to weed and water. At the same time, I pull out the carrot gradually, as it grows: if the root crops have become palm-length and longer, please come to the table, if smaller, grow further and gain strength. And so on until the frosts. I don’t even know how many buckets of carrots I get from my small garden - we eat all summer and autumn, and enough for the winter.
Since the soil is well fertilized with manure and ash when sowing, I feed the carrot only in July. The treat for it consists of a solution of chicken manure (1: 10), which I distribute before feeding on a liter in a bucket, adding half a liter of ash. This method suits me perfectly. And I grow varieties Losinoostrovskaya and Nantes.
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If you take the carrot cuttings (its upper part with a tail) and put it in a bowl of water, then in two weeks they will start the roots, and in two weeks they can be planted in the ground as seedlings. As a result, young carrots will ripen from the scraps.
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NOT TRUE.
To grow new root crops from carrot scraps, alas, will not be possible, since the upper part is incapable of rooting. From the top of the carrot at home, by forcing out, you can get only a crop of fresh greens, rich in carotene, vitamins and trace elements. For this, cuttings of thickness 1,5-2 cm are placed in a bowl of water or stuck in moist sand and put on a window sill, periodically watering. Young leaves will grow about a week after "planting" (they are added to salads, soups).
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WE MAKE CARROT WITH COFFEE
When planting carrots I mix the seeds with the dried coffee used. The effect is obvious: seeds are seldom seeded (less to be thinned out) and fertilized at the same time. And most importantly, the smell of coffee scares off parasites, carrot pests. The harvest is always excellent, and it is kept all winter.
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I have not yet met my method of sowing carrots. In the prepared bed width 90-100 cm, I make three furrows along the depth of 3 cm. I shed them with a solution of potassium permanganate. The palm of the hand I take on the earth and the seeds that are drained and pasted onto toilet paper. Screws are covered with a layer of sifted sand 3-3,5, see.
Between grooves scattered seeds of dill and abundantly watered the whole garden. I close lutrasilom until the middle of July.
Why? Sand never dries to the ground. Seeds are planted on 5-6 day. And dill I pull out before flowering, cut and freeze. I leave the part, it keeps lutrasil. There are almost no herbs there, so there is no problem with weeding and thinnings. I pour on lutrasila.
When there is a need to pull out dill and a rare herb, I do it at 9-10 in the evening - because of a carrot fly.
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For a good harvest, I bring in the fall to the future carrot garden humus, and in the spring I add ash, crushed eggshell and dig.
To be convenient to sow, I take a tin can, I make holes in it, I put seeds in it, I draw grooves on the bed and shake the seeds over them. If the seedlings are too thick, I delete the superfluous ones.
Sow a row of carrots - a row of radishes. So I manage to get a harvest of radishes, and then the carrots begin to grow. And I also plant radishes along the edge of the garden bed (just not in the middle) - there it does not interfere with carrots at all. Constantly watering, weeding planting. Loosening, I think, is optional - when you weed out, the soil in any case loosens.
Every 2 year I swap the carrot and beetroot beds. The carrot grows well after the onion. On the onion bed, the root crops are not damaged by the carrot fly larvae.