Technology for growing early cucumbers - planting and care, feedback on methods
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Growing early cucumbers - my way and feedback about it
I have long wanted to share with my readers technology of growing early cucumberswhose harvest I got by mid-May, but somehow shy: I thought my letter seemed unconvincing. But after in some rooms the summer residents asked for advice on this very thing, finally decided. Moreover, the time is the most suitable - I start sowing cucumbers at the very end of March.
Usually for this purpose I use such self-pollinated varieties as Masha, Herman, Murashka and Mazai. First, the seeds are germinated in a damp cotton cloth for tissue, and then, as soon as the sprouts pass, I lower them to 30-40 minutes into a solution of Trichopolum. I do it this way: I pour one tablet into powder, pour a small amount of hot (but not boiling water!) Water, mix until the drug is well dissolved, then dilute the usual, room temperature, water to a volume of not less than 0,5 l. Everything, "living water" is ready.
After all these treatments, the seeds are planted in two pieces in disposable cups (some of them called piles), in the bottom of which I make one drainage hole.
At this stage, the most important thing is to choose the correct composition of the soil mixture and the thickness of its layer in the cups.
See also: Early cucumbers in the suburbs - my advice
I'll start with the first one.
The mixture is made from 2 parts of ordinary fertile soil, 1 part of friable humus, half part of sand (in recent years has also been added literally for a handful of purchased soil for seedlings).
And I pour this mixture into cups with a layer no more than 2-3 cm, on top of which I spread the seeds (the same mixture of them lightly and sprinkle).
As soon as the seedlings appear, I double the observation of the moisture content of the mixture in the cups, otherwise the shoots may dry up in an instant. If you do not give them suffering from thirst, they will quickly gain strength. When the plant grows to the edge of the cups, I sprinkle a soil mixture of their stems to the very leaves. When the cucumbers begin to peep out of their containers with might and main (ie they will rise above them 3-4 cm), I transplant them together with clods of earth into two-hundred-cup glasses.
They tolerate this procedure well: although their stems are long and thin (it seems that they will break due to touching them), but in fact their fragility is imaginary - the plant can be bent, if only gently. When transplanting, I sprinkle them so that only leaves are left at the top, and then I must water it with any “vegetable” fertilizer.
And after about a week I spend another transplant - in the largest (half-liter) glasses, also filling them with earth to the leaves. That's all. "All?! - another reader will be indignant. “But this is so much trouble!” Yes, quit. For example, the same
Tomatoes or peppers are much more capricious love and without such a number of transplants. But cucumbers after all the troubles will calmly grow and gain strength until the most transplant into the open ground or under a film (or in a greenhouse).
When planting them on a permanent place, the holes I deliberately do deeper, since later, after watering, the plants will need to be mulched. Usually I use humus for this, and if it is not enough, I take ordinary soil.
See also: Cultivation of early cucumbers in tunnels
I also want to pay attention to an interesting moment. If you dropped the cucumbers under the film, but suddenly the colds hit, you should not be frightened: pour boiling water into buckets and put them between the bushes, and on the cover itself, put on additional insulation (some old blankets).
And cucumbers will withstand the test with low temperatures. Even if after that they slightly turn yellow, do not worry, after a week, or even less, they will again be like cucumbers! Again you will be pleased with the cheerful green color of your foliage.
Yes, I still agree: it seems that all this is very labor-consuming, some of the trials. But it's so interesting! Neighbors did not even think of sowing, but I already have cucumber flowers. Its, without nitrates, not from the store. Great!
© Author: Galina Vladimirovna Cheremushki Village, Kursk Region.
5 SECRETS OF EARLY HARVEST OF CUCUMBERS
Cucumber - heat-loving culture. Does not like sudden temperature fluctuations and may die under the influence of strong return frosts.
But this does not mean that early sowing of seeds is impossible. The first cucumbers can be obtained in May!
- Choosing a grade
Since you cannot get an early crop of cucumbers in the middle lane without a greenhouse, then when choosing a variety, give preference to parthenocarpic (self-pollinated) early ripe hybrids: Murashka, Boy with a finger, Benefis, Alexe-ich, Emelya, Annette, Xana, Lirik, Slobozhansky, Nadezhda , Kibriya, Crispina, Gunnar, Athena, Artist, Cupid.
- Sowing
Sow seedlings for sowing 3-4 a week before the expected date of planting in the ground. First, lay them on a thin napkin and leave it to warm up on the 4-5 battery for hours. If the seeds are not processed, after warming for 20 minutes, dip them in a pink solution of potassium permanganate, rinse with water and hold 20-30 for 10 minutes in the growth regulator diluted as instructed (Epin, Zircon, Charm, amber acid). Dry to a crumbly state and sow one by one in moist soil to a depth of 0,5. Cover with a film or glass. After emergence of shoots remove shelter.
- Caring for seedlings
Keep on a bright windowsill, water in the morning with water at room temperature. When 2-4 real leaflets appear on the seedlings, dilute the half-tablets of Immunocytophyte in 750 ml of water, sprinkle the plants. Repeat the processing already on the bed: at the beginning of flowering and during the mass formation of fruits.
- We land on the garden
When the soil temperature at a depth of 10 cm is not less than + 12 degrees, the seedlings can be planted in the garden. To speed up the process, at the place where you plan to plant early, dig a trench 40 deep in cm, place a layer of fresh manure 15 cm thick in it, fill it with the soil removed earlier and spill it with hot water. On the day of the landing of 10 kg of humus, mix with 60 g of ammonium nitrate, 50 g of superphosphate and 25 g of potassium salt. Add 200-250 g of this mixture to each well (approximately one faceted glass).
- Waiting for the first cucumber
Immediately after the landing, chaff the bed with peat, straw or sawdust. If there is a threat of return frost, cover the plants with an additional layer of film or spunbond. Water only with warm water. Once a 7-10 days, feed with a mullein (1: 10), chicken manure (1: 20) or ammonium nitrate (15 g for 10 l of water). Early harvest guaranteed!
© Author: Olga CHAHUK, ml. scientific sotr. Institute of Vegetable and Melon
GROWING EARLY CUCUMBERS - TIPS AND FEEDBACK
5 SECRETS OF EARLY CUCUMBERS
With experience, I realized that the rate of ripening of cucumbers in a greenhouse depends on several factors. I worked out the rules for myself - and I get a harvest for two, or even three weeks, more wounds than before.
- Heat and carbon dioxide
Cucumbers love warmth. I try so that even at night the temperature does not drop below +18 degrees. And cucumbers also need carbon dioxide, without which normal fruiting is impossible. To saturate the air with it, I dug several holes with a diameter of 2 cm and a depth of 50 cm in the beds at a distance of 40 m from each other and 30 cm from the plants. I filled them with fresh straw manure mixed in half with sawdust and chopped straw. Each filled pit spilled 5 liters of urea solution (10 tablespoons flat on a bucket of hot water).
- Fresh air
So that the air in the greenhouse does not stagnate, even in a cool spring
I ventilate it by opening the door for a couple of hours (just the door!). I do not arrange drafts, because cucumbers do not like them. In warm weather, I open the door for the whole day.
- Correct watering
I water the cucumbers in the evening every 2-3 days. In the heat, I do not skimp on water and water the plantings every day. I keep water for irrigation in the greenhouse itself. By the evening, it becomes warm enough, moreover, open cans of water help maintain an optimal level of humidity in the room.
- High-grade food
Starting from the first week after planting seedlings in the garden, I feed them every 7 days
cucumbers in one of the following formulations.
Pour pieces of stale black bread with boiling water (1: 1), let them ferment for a week. I filter and dilute with water 1: 7. I pour out 1 liter under the bush.
I dust the damp earth around the plants with wood ash. After a couple of hours, I loosen the soil.
I insist a liter can of dry chicken manure in 10 liters of water for a week. I dilute with water 1:12. I pour out 1 liter of the composition under the bush.
- Short day
In order to stimulate the plants for the early formation of fruits, during flowering at 18 o'clock I throw a black film on the greenhouse at night (I remove it at 7 o'clock in the morning).
© Author: Inna CHUBIKOVA
EARLY CUCUMBERS IN GREENHOUSE, BARREL AND OPEN GROUND
© Author: Elena Ivanovna Chistyakova - biologist, vegetable grower, florist with more than 30 years of experience in gardening, radio host of the program "Both in the garden and in the garden"
The greenhouse and greenhouses, as well as the breakthrough biotechnology of organic live farming, will help us get the earliest, most fragrant cucumbers. There will be a lot of cucumbers, enough for everyone.
How to get good yields of cucumbers until late autumn? To do this, you do not need to be a professional gardener, it is enough to master the basic rules of care.
WE PLANT IN A GREENHOUSE
We dig up the soil a week and a half before planting seedlings and enrich it with fertilizers. To do this, we take for 1 m2: 1 bucket of humus, and even better - 1/2 bucket of peat + 1/2 bucket of sawdust + 0 l 5 Bogatyr + 33 kg of Bionex + 2 g of the Host-Father + 100-4 l of PuhoVita. Align and spill with Fitosporin-M. We cover with black agrotex to retain moisture and warm the soil well. In heat, beneficial microorganisms of preparations 5 Bogatyr and Fitosporin multiply faster and destroy pathogens.
BEFORE PLANTING THE SEEDLINGS INTO THE GREENHOUSE, WE REMOVE AGROTEX.
We plant seedlings in the evening or, if the day is cloudy, in the morning. We spill holes 20 cm deep with a solution of any Fitosporin, lay out OZHZ fertilizers (see diagram), sprinkle with a layer of soil from the holes and plant seedlings, retreating from the walls of the greenhouse by 50 cm. We observe intervals between plants of 30-40 cm, and between rows - 70 -80 cm. We plant 3-4 plants per 1 m2. If cucumbers were grown in reusable containers, then a day or two before planting, we stop watering so that the earthen clod leaves the container more easily. The soil around the seedlings is slightly compacted so that the roots do not erode during watering, and we water with the Korne-Sil working solution (1 liter of solution per 1 plant) for better survival, growth and protection of the roots.
TIE AND SHAP
To protect cucumbers from diseases due to contact with the soil and to enable each shoot to receive the necessary amount of sunlight and heat, 2-3 days after planting the seedlings, we tie them vertically to the trellis.
When the bushes grow to 40 cm, we begin to form: we remove all side shoots and buds from the leaf axils of the lower part of the plant, leaving only the leaves. We pinch the next 4-5 lateral shoots onto one leaf and one ovary. Further - on 2 leaves and two ovaries, and the uppermost ones - on 3-4 leaves and 3-4 ovaries.
WE WATER, FEED AND HEAL
Watering cucumbers needs moderate, but frequent, especially in the first week after planting seedlings. With a lack of moisture, the bushes will lag behind in growth, and the fruits will become bitter. Pour warm water 2-4 times a week (depending on air temperature).
Our cucumbers will not be able to gain strength without frequent root and foliar top dressing.
We carry out the first top dressing 7 days after planting the seedlings. To do this, 100 g of organic fertilizer Chicken manure Real pour 10 liters of water, let stand for 8-10 days. Received Be sure to treat diseases with Fitosporin once every 2 weeks, alternating with fertilizers Rich Vegetables, Gumi-Omi Cucumber, Gumi-Omi Nitrogen.
For foliar dressings, we take Borogum - during flowering, it protects against barren flowers, falling ovaries and stimulates the development of roots. We maintain the temperature during the day not less than +25 °C, and at night +17 °C.
With this mode of care, the first greens can be harvested within two weeks after planting 30-day-old seedlings in the ground.
SOWING IN OPEN GROUND
We prepare the garden bed, as for seedlings, leave the agrotex, making cuts in it in a checkerboard pattern. On a meter bed we have 2 rows at a distance of 50 cm and 30 cm in a row between plants.
We soak the seeds in a bio-solution with Gumi and Fitosporin for 1-5 hours (read more in the last issue of the newspaper). Dry to dryness and sow. We put 2-3 seeds in a hole at a distance of 2-3 cm from each other. We cover with a layer of earth 2-3 cm thick, slightly compact. Top with white agrotex. As soon as the first true leaf appears on the cucumbers, we cut off the extra plants with scissors at the soil level, leaving only the best ones.
INTERESTING! GROWING CUCUMBERS IN BARRELS
If you have a small plot and do not have a greenhouse, you can grow a good crop of cucumbers on a piece of land measuring a meter by meter at little cost.
This method of cultivation has a lot of advantages: seedlings receive uniform lighting, fertilizer consumption is reduced, the soil remains loose until autumn, there are fewer pests and diseases, and care is simplified.
It is better to choose a place on the southern or southwestern side of the site, protected from the cold wind.
At the bottom of the barrel we lay old branches, leaves, pebbles. Pour herbs and humus on top for 2/3 of the volume. In the process of decomposition of plant residues, a lot of heat is released, which is necessary for cucumbers, and the soil turns out to be loose and crumbly.
From above we spill the biopreparation Compostin (50 ml per 10 liters of water). Leave for a few days to start the decomposition process.
We fall asleep with a layer of earth 20-25 cm high, leaving about 15 cm from the edge of the barrel. In order to save money, we add OZHZ fertilizers to the dug holes - so all the nutrients will be next to the roots. We transfer the seedlings along with an earthen clod. Sprinkle with earth and lightly compact.
CARE
If there is a threat of repeated frosts and the night temperature drops below +15 ° C, be sure to cover the cucumbers with foil or acrylic. As soon as warm weather sets in, remove the shelter and tie the branches to supports - to arcs or wooden slats up to 1 meter long dug into the ground. To strengthen the structure, you can pull the rope. And you can not tie up at all.
HOW TO GET EARLY CUCUMBERS - VIDEO
Below other entries on the topic "Dacha and garden - with their own hands"
- Spunbonded Cucumbers - Growing Instructions
- Growing + garter cucumbers on a high bed in a greenhouse (Ryazan region)
- Cultivation of cucumbers planting and caring (Belgorod region)
- The best sorts of cucumbers - an overview
- Cultivation of cucumbers in the open ground: planting and care
- Cucumber variety ALPINIST F1 - my reviews
- Growing cucumbers in the Moscow region - planting and care
- If the cucumbers withered in the middle of summer ...
- Growing cucumbers in the Moscow region - planting and care
- Cultivation of cucumbers from A to Z: description of care, variety, and many recipes
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Seeds of cucumbers in the open ground are sown according to a note on Nikolay Letnev (22 May) or Pakhoma (28 May). I do not know why, but it is planted these days that bring the richest harvest. True, I rely not only on the wisdom of great-grandfathers - I care for cucumbers according to the rules.
For 5-6 days before seeding 1 st.l. Copper vitriol I plant in 10 l of hot water, spill abundantly the bed and cover with a film. Then I loosen the ground. At a distance of 30 cm from each other form holes with a depth of 15-20 cm. At the bottom I lay a third of the shovel of fresh cow dung, sprinkle half the soil shovel and water abundantly (4-5 L of water per well). When the liquid is absorbed, I lay 1 on a seed or 2 dried seeds. I sprinkle the earth and water the garden again. If the weather is cool, mulch crops with humus or peat.
If 2 plants get in one hole, I cut the weaker one with scissors.
I water once in 2-3 days with warm water. I try to do it in the evening. After each watering carefully loosen the soil, trying not to damage the roots.
Once in 2 weeks I feed it with a yeast solution (100 g per 10 L of water) or herbal infusion (1: 10; I necessarily add a handful of wood ash to 10 L of the composition) - I pour out 1 st. top dressing under a bush.
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Excessively dry and hot weather is very delayed pollination of cucumbers. Ugly fruits, "hooks", sometimes appearing in hot weather, are a consequence of incomplete fertilization. In order for the pollinated varieties to bind fruit well, it is necessary to attract useful insects.
To do this, I spray the cucumber flowers with a weak solution of sugar syrup. In general, I always plant honey bees nearby - when mint and oregano, when melissa, catnip grows in the garden.
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For many years I have been growing cucumbers in a compact and convenient way - on a support in the form of a wigwam tent. May God give health to the one who invented such a thing!
In the excavated round pit (diameter 1 m and depth 0,5 m), I put the rotted compost. In the center, I set the pole length 2 m above ground level and bury it for stability at 1 m.
At the top of the pole I fasten a disk of plywood (diameter 25 cm) with holes along the edge, in order to pass the ribbons in the amount of a little more cucumber seedlings and a length of 2,5-3 m.
Cucumbers I plant on the outer diameter of the circle into the ground, slightly receding from the laid compost, with a distance of 15 cm between the plants.
Next to each seedling I drive a peg, pull the ribbon from the top of the pole and tie it to the peg (my son helps keep the pole so that it does not bend). It turns out such a pointed pyramid, along which begin to curl cucumbers.
When the seedlings become strong, the antennae wrap around the ribbons, it is necessary to water not the plants themselves, but the fertile soil in the center of the wigwam. Thus, water evaporates much less due to the constant shadow of the cucumber lashes inside the pyramid. Harvesting is a pleasure: you walk in a circle, all the cucumbers are in sight, not higher than the level of a raised hand.