To make chrysanthemums bloom - planting and caring for a flower, tips for growing
So that buds appear on the chrysanthemum
I bought a flourishing large potted chrysanthemum in the spring 30 height in winter. I planted it in the open ground in the spring. Growing powerful stems up to 1 m, no buds. They say that it will never bloom. Can you make it bloom with retardant "Athlete" and reduce the height by treating the bush in the spring of next year?
V. Belov. Yaroslavl both
Pruning will not affect the flowering of the potted chrysanthemum? How to water a plant?
Elena NEKRASOVA, Samara
In the autumn-winter period, varieties and hybrids of Indian chrysanthemum are usually sold. To make the plant become compact and abundant in bloom, many special hormones and fertilizers are used in greenhouses and nurseries. But gradually their action stops, and the chrysanthemum rushes to growth, trying to reach the usual sizes. Especially when you landed in the garden, you gave her complete freedom.
Chrysanthemum Indian Plant of a short day. To form buds, it needs a light day of no more than 8 hours and a temperature of + 15-18 degrees. There is a possibility that buds will also appear on your chrysanthemum with the onset of optimal conditions for this. Autumn is an opportune time for its flowering. But to enjoy its full luxury, with the advent of cold weather, you can dig a bush and transfer it to the house on the windowsill.
CARE FOR CHRYSISANTUM AFTER FLOWERING
Chrysanthemum after flowering is cut shortly and given to it a period of rest in a cool room (it is possible in a non-freezing cellar). With the beginning of active growth, the plant is put on the brightest place.
The bush should be formed by regular prischipkami and scraps. Not too large a pot will also contain the wild growth of chrysanthemum. But the drug "Athlete" is unlikely to have a noticeable effect, rather act as a fertilizer and strengthen the immunity of the plant. It does not affect flowering. I apply it only on seedlings.
See also: Chrysanthemum (photo) - description of species, planting and care
HOW TO SPREAD CHRYSANTHEM
Chrysanthemum has a powerful root system, so it should be watered regularly and abundantly. The soil must always remain slightly damp, but not wet.
If the plant does not have enough water, it will immediately show it with drooping leaves. Excessive watering causes rot.
During the rest period chrysanthemum is not watered, only occasionally the upper layer of soil is moistened, so that the roots do not dry out. With the onset of heat and the beginning of growth, if necessary, the plant is transplanted into fresh substrate, the dry, stretched and weak shoots are removed and watering resumes, increasing it as it grows.
Interesting facts about chrysanthemum
- Chrysanthemum in Japan is a symbol of longevity.
- Chinese people to improve their financial situation, a flowering chrysanthemum is placed next to an orange tree and a thick-skinned.
- Shoots, leaves and especially the inflorescence of chrysanthemums in Asian countries are eaten as vegetables and a delicious dessert, and in Chinese folk medicine this plant is used for medicinal purposes.
© Author: Svetlana VLADIMIROVA, plant collector, Ulan-Ude. Photo by Tatyana Sanchuk
CHRISANTEMES - LANDING AND CARE. TIPS AND FEEDBACK
Planting and propagation of chrysanthemums
In autumn, the bushes of chrysanthemums are transformed - first, beads of tight buds appear on them, then they gradually become colored, and then the bush seems to flash color. The splendor of blooming chrysanthemums is fascinating. They paint the autumn garden in spring with bright colors and fill it with a tart aroma. These perennials, delighting us with their flowering until winter, amaze with a variety of shapes, colors and an abundance of inflorescences, intense greenery of carved foliage and resistance to the vagaries of weather.
By choosing varieties of different flowering periods from different groups, you can create a "long-lasting" blooming autumn garden. You can admire the luxurious flowering of chrysanthemums almost until the New Year. To do this, in the fall, transplant a chrysanthemum bush into a flowerpot or pot and put it on a light windowsill or veranda.
In order for the chrysanthemums to be healthy and to enjoy long flowering, several rules must be observed.
Planting and propagation of chrysanthemums
For growing chrysanthemums, I choose a bright area, without moisture stagnation, with a neutral or slightly acidic soil. The earth must be fertile, crumbly, well pass both water and air. I have clay chernozem on the site, so before planting seedlings in each hole I add river (or washed, without clay) sand, ripened humus-rape, 2 art. tablespoons of wood ash, I spill a fungicide solution and only after that I plant seedlings.
There is practically no excess moisture in the steppe zone.
If the soil is not nutritious enough, then, in addition to humus, you can add compost, peat, granules of complex mineral fertilizers.
The distance between plants should be at least 30 cm, and better - 40-50 cm. It depends on the characteristics of the variety and the size of the plot allocated for chrysanthemums. Sometimes the desire to place more plants in a small area leads to the fact that they lose their attractiveness, stretch out from a lack of light, the bushes become loose. In addition, thickened plantings are often affected by fungal diseases. Propagate chrysanthemums by cuttings. This is one of the most common ways. In spring, cut green shoots up to 15 cm long, treat them with root. I plant it in cups with a mixture of soil (or on a bed) and shade it from the bright sun. I water it as the soil dries.
When planting cuttings on a bed, you can spill the ground with a solution of root nevine (1 g per 1 l of water], this contributes to the development of a powerful root system.
Chrysanthemums can be easily propagated by dividing the bush in early spring. After stable warm weather, I dig a bush, divide it into dividers, making sure that there is at least one root on each young shoot, and immediately plant it in the soil. I throw out the old dark overwintered shoots. I well water the young planted and divided shoots well. I follow to not overmoisten the seedlings, so I water them as the top layer of soil dries. Young plants are susceptible to diseases, so I treat them with fungicides for prevention.
Watering and feeding
It is better to water chrysanthemums with soft water - standing or rain. For watering, you can add 2-3 drops of ammonia solution.
Chrysanthemum is very responsive to mineral nutrition. At the beginning of the season I use nitrogen fertilizers to increase the vegetative mass, and when the plants form buds, I use phosphorus-potassium fertilizers for better flowering. Nitrogen deficiency
It is convenient to use a drip irrigation system for watering
can cause chlorosis (yellowing) of the leaves, reducing the size of inflorescences. Potassium positively affects the health and beauty of inflorescences, and phosphorus promotes abundant and prolonged flowering of plants, increases their immunity.
How to deal with diseases and pests of chrysanthemums
The soil contains a large number of various pathogens, so after each heavy rain I carry out the treatment of chrysanthemums, alternating drugs against diseases (Previkur, Quadris) and root rot (phytosporin, etc.).
Most of all pests, insects of chrysanthemum loves aphids which, sucking the juice of plants, slows growth, spoils the buds. Sometimes caterpillars of leafworms and other pests may appear on the bushes. I regularly inspect the plantings and, if something appears, treat them with some kind of insecticide (actellik, actara, spark, phytoverm, etc.).
Variety of Chrysanthemum Varieties
Today the choice of varieties of chrysanthemums is so wide that they can be used to decorate the site in a variety of roles. Among the popular ones are small-flowered spherical low-growing varieties of the multiflora group with inflorescences of various colors and shades. They are intended for outdoor cultivation, although some of them need shelter for the winter. I really like the variety with the orange cap of the Branopal Orange inflorescences. Such a "sun" in the garden pleases and cheers up on cloudy autumn days. And the bright Brainstorn bushes of deep red color create a festive mood.
The second group is shrubby chrysanthemums (the so-called branch chrysanthemums). They are most often used for cutting for bouquets, as well as for growing in garden plots. Gentle pink Anessy Dark inflorescences with petals of an unusual shape attract the eye and touch. The next is a group of large-flowered varieties that are rarely sold for propagation because they require special growing conditions. I could not create such conditions to fully admire their beauty. Therefore, experimenting, I decided nevertheless to abandon them.
After flowering, the plant should be given rest. Therefore, I cut branches on the chrysanthemums, treat the plants with some fungicide and put the flowerpot with chrysanthemums into the cellar
Wintering plants
After the first frosts, I cover my tested and resistant varieties with cut branches of perennials, covering material, but not with polyethylene (under it, the plants simply rot).
It is best with the onset of the first night frosts to dig a bush with a lump of earth and carefully plant it in a large flower pot. Putting it in a bright, cool room, for example, a glazed veranda, you can still admire its flowering until spring. Periodically (about once a month) I check how the plants behave and, if necessary, moisten the soil a little in the flowerpot.
In early spring, I take out the plants into the light and slowly accustom them to the sun. When a young shoot appears, cutting it.
Chrysanthemums are very beautiful and grateful plants. With a little effort, you can decorate your site with magnificent fragrant flowers.
© Author: Elena SAVETA, florist
MULTICHRISENTEMA IS CHIC!
The most important feature of multiflora chrysanthemum is its genetically embedded ability to grow into a large ball without any pinches. Even a non-flowering bush looks elegant in the flower garden. How not to grow such a miracle in your garden ?!
In our Samara climate, the multiflora chrysanthemum feels quite comfortable. It is only necessary to select early flowering varieties, so that this fashionista has time to show her delightful outfit before the autumn frosts and heavy rains.
Secrets of cultivation
The most suitable time for planting rooted cuttings or cuttings is the first half of May. Chrysanthemum leaves are not afraid of light frosts. With a later landing, she does not have enough time to build up a crown of large diameter.
The distance between the bushes is 50-70 cm. It is important that there is room for the development of an ideal ball.
Chrysanthemums planted in a sunny place and in fertile soil will grow better.
The first time after planting, seedlings need to be often watered so that the roots from the loose planting soil sprouted into a more dense soil, rather than dried out.
Chrysanthemum loves water! Therefore, it must be watered on time, only then it will show its varietal qualities in all its glory.
10 days after planting, and then every two weeks until the end of June, we feed the plant with complex fertilizer with a predominance of nitrogen. In July, we increase the dose of potassium in fertilizers. And with the beginning of the formation of buds, we focus on phosphorus-potash.
The chrysanthemum bush must be divided once every two to three years, ideally - annually. The abundance of shoots in a thickened plant will contribute to the appearance of fungal diseases and the death of the entire bush.
© Author: Angela SALMINA, owner of a farm, p. Russian Borkovka of the Samara region
CHRYSANTHEMES: TIME TO SHARE AND REPLANT
May is the best time to plant and transplant chrysanthemums. During the summer, the plants will get stronger and will be able to successfully overwinter. But the autumn planting dates are undesirable: chrysanthemums may not have time to develop the root system, and there is a high probability of plant death.
The easiest way to propagate chrysanthemums is by dividing the bush: part of the young shoots with a root system is separated from the mother plant. Plan the work when the danger of return frosts has passed and the soil warms up well (on a cloudy day).
Prepare the pits in advance, which are spilled with water.
Dig up a bush and divide it into several pieces with two or three shoots.
Do not deepen the root collar (it should be at ground level). After planting around the plant, lightly compact the soil and water.
The distance between plants is 25-50 cm, between rows - 40-60 cm (take into account the varietal characteristics - the height and width of the bushes).
When the chrysanthemums take root and start growing, gently pinch the top on the seventh leaf (to enhance branching).
If everything is done correctly, young chrysanthemums will bloom already in the year of planting. Flowering lasts three to four weeks, and in some varieties - one and a half months or more.
Basic rules of care
Place
Chrysanthemums are photophilous, with insufficient lighting, the plants lose their decorative effect, their winter hardiness and resistance to diseases decrease. They prefer loamy or sandy loamy soils rich in organic matter.
Watering
At the beginning of the growth of the bush, regular watering in the early morning or evening is important (but do not fill it - this can lead to the death of the plant). During the budding period, the need for moisture decreases.
Feeding
During the first month after planting, feed the chrysanthemum with nitrogen: its lack during this period delays growth and reduces the number of inflorescences. When laying buds, phosphorus-potassium fertilizers are needed, which increase the resistance of chrysanthemums to diseases, stimulate abundant and prolonged flowering. During the summer, feed the flowers 2-3 times with a complex mineral fertilizer in liquid or dry form. In the latter case, apply the granules before watering (cover under bushes) so that they do not fall on the leaves (this can cause burns).
FACT: CHRYSANTHEMAS MUST BE DIVIDED EVERY 4-5 YEARS.
© Author: Svetlana TSEKHANOVICH, Researcher of the Central Botanical Garden of the National Academy of Sciences of Belarus
CHRYSANTHEMES "LIGHT UP" IN AUTUMN
These amazing cysts with a tart aroma are able to maintain decorativeness even at temperatures of 5-7 degrees, and bloom further. But. despite their endurance, they need care. Otherwise, they will begin to degenerate: the flowers will become smaller, and the aging rhizomes will give less and less young stems.
AUTUMN FEEDING CHRYSANTHUM
In the fall, chrysanthemums need to replenish their reserves of phosphorus and potassium, which help to better endure the winter cold. I feed the bushes in late September-early October: after abundant watering, I add 50 g of superphosphate and 30 g of potassium sulfate / sq. m, shallowly loosen. In extreme cases, fertilizers can be replaced with wood ash (100 g / mXNUMX).
IMPORTANT!.
At this time, it is impossible to use organic matter and fertilizers containing nitrogen - young shoots will begin to rage, which on the eve of wintering will weaken the culture.
7-10 days after feeding all the bushes, even healthy-looking ones, and I spray the soil around with "Fundazol" (20 g / bucket of water) or Bordeaux liquid (according to the instructions).
CARE THINNESS
In lush chrysanthemums, the stems grow crowded, therefore they are often exposed to diseases and invasions of aphids or spider mites. When watering, I try to direct the stream of water at the root, and not at the leaves and stems, in order to avoid the development of fungal diseases.
After the end of flowering, I must cut off all the shoots, leaving no more than 10-15 cm above ground level, removing the weak and sick. So chrysanthemums spend less valuable resources in winter.
PREPARATION OF CHRISANTES FOR WINTER
Due to the autumn flowering, plants need a sufficient supply of moisture for successful wintering. A week before frost (when the temperature is close to 0 degrees), I pour at least 5 liters of water under each bush of small-flowered chrysanthemums, then cover it with a layer of mulch: shavings, straw or peat. After 2-3 days the subzero temperature lasts, I spud, completely hiding the cut stems.
If you cover the plants earlier, they can undercut. It is easier for flowers wintering in the garden to survive the cold next to trees or on the south side of buildings than in open, blown areas.
With the onset of the first frost, carefully, in order to preserve an earthen lump, I use a pitchfork to dig out thermophilic large-flowered hybrids and spherical chrysanthemums from the ground. I transfer to containers, sprinkle with wet sand and store in a cool room until spring, moistening the soil a couple of times a month,
© Author: Maria ANDREEVA Photo by the author and Valentina Bondar
MYSTERIOUS LUXURY CHRYSANTHEM
In the fall, garden chrysanthemums, like bright multi-colored stars, light up in flower beds in parks and in flower beds of personal plots. These amazing flowers with a tart aroma are able to maintain their decorative effect even at temperatures of minus 5-7 ° and bloom further. Some will say that with such endurance, the plant requires a minimum of maintenance. But if you let everything take its course, then over time the bushes will begin to degenerate: the flowers become smaller, the aging rhizome will give less and less young stems.
In the fall, chrysanthemums need to replenish the reserves of phosphorus and potassium - accumulating in the roots, these elements will help plants to better endure the winter cold. I feed decorative crops in late September - early October, so that chrysanthemums have time to assimilate nutrients that increase immunity and frost resistance.
After abundant watering, I add 50 g of superphosphate and 30 g of potassium sulfate per 1 sq. m, then I shallowly loosen the soil. At worst, mineral fertilizers can be replaced with ordinary wood ash (100 g per 1 sq. M). And of course, during this period it is impossible to introduce organic matter and fertilizers containing nitrogen, such top dressing contributes to the growth of young shoots, then on the eve of wintering it will only weaken the plant.
LATER 7-10 DAYS after feeding, all the bushes, even healthy-looking ones, and I spray the soil around them with Fundazol (20 g per 1 bucket of water), it can be replaced with a solution of Bordeaux liquid. In lush chrysanthemums, the stems grow crowded, so they are often exposed to fungal diseases and invasions of aphids or spider mites. When watering, I try to pour water under the root, and not on the leaves and stems, in order to avoid the development of fungal infections.
AFTER THE END OF FLOWERING, I must cut off all the stems, leaving no more than 10-15 cm from the ground level, simultaneously removing the weak and sick. Thus, plants will spend less valuable resources in winter.
Since chrysanthemum blooms in autumn, it needs a sufficient supply of moisture for successful wintering. A week before frost, when the temperature is close to zero, I pour at least 5 liters of water under each bush of small-flowered chrysanthemums (popularly called "oaks"), then cover the plants with a layer of mulch (shavings, straw, peat). And after 2-3 days the freezing temperature stands, I spud the chrysanthemums, completely hiding the cut stems. If you cover the plants earlier, then the stems may begin to undermine. It is easier for wintering flowers to survive the cold next to trees or on the south side of buildings than in open, blown areas.
With the onset of the first frost, carefully, in order to preserve an earthen lump, I use a pitchfork to dig out thermophilic large-flowered hybrids and spherical chrysanthemums from open ground. I transfer the plants into containers, sprinkle them with wet sand and store them in a cool room until spring, moistening the soil a couple of times a month.
© Author: M. VECHKANOVA Belgorod region
LANDING CHRYSANTHEM - ALL THE nuances
It is generally accepted that chrysanthemums are the queens of autumn, and it is perhaps difficult to argue with this statement, if only because in September-October they have no competitors in our gardens. But it is better to plant them in the spring (in April-May).
AVOID DISAPPOINTMENT
Of course, the range of garden chrysanthemum (Chrysanthemum x morifolium) includes many early varieties, the flowering of which in the middle zone begins in July-August (there are even super-early ones that bloom in mid-late June). But the greatest demand for their planting material is noted in the fall. And therein lies a big mistake and the reason for disappointment in these beautiful flowers. Many lovers are sure that the most beautiful chrysanthemums do not winter in the open field. Unfortunately, it is the autumn planting of a bush that almost always leads to its death in winter. The fact is that the plant at this moment directs all its forces not at all to rooting, but to flowering. Most often, it is interrupted by a serious cold snap, therefore, to postpone full rooting "for later", as, for example, primrose, the chrysanthemum simply does not have time and dies in winter. Sometimes, however, autumn pleases with prolonged warmth, then autumn planting may well be crowned with success.
KOREAN BEAUTIES
They are characterized by relatively high winter hardiness and early flowering. The inflorescences of most of them, of course, do not exceed 5-6 cm in diameter, but, as a rule, there are a lot of them on the bush. For landscaping, these varieties are more interesting, because they create a fairly clear color spot, stand out for long flowering (at least 35-40 days).
INDIAN LATER
Most Indian chrysanthemums are characterized by late flowering and do not have time to bloom before a steady cold snap, since their flower buds are laid only after long-term (more than 8 weeks) cultivation with daylight hours less than 10-11 hours. For the garden, I select the earliest varieties from this group.
MISS MULTIFLORA
This group includes industrially grown varieties of low-growing chrysanthemums with dense branching and a clearly defined spherical shape of the bush. They are distinguished by friendly, very abundant, but not too long flowering. In non-hardy varieties of multiflora, underground rhizomes with renewal buds are almost completely absent, and in spring the plants begin to grow from the root neck or even from dormant buds on the stem. This group also has fairly resistant varieties - Gigi White, Brandindio. And if you still really want to save the multiflora, and its winter hardiness is unknown, you should dig up the plant for the winter and keep it in a frost-free room.
SHAFT OR DELENKA?
For planting, you can use both delenki from 2-4 shoots, and rooted cuttings. Even an accidentally broken off shoot with a small piece of rhizome without suction roots takes root quite easily during irrigation. Do not be afraid of too small, as it seems at first glance, the size of seedlings. From experience I will say that a rooted cutting 7-12 cm high, planted in a permanent place before the third decade of June, quite manages to develop into a full-fledged bush and bloom in the same year at the time characteristic of the variety. Another plus of spring planting is that by autumn, plants from cuttings or cuttings are lower than undivided overwintered bushes grown under the same conditions. This is especially valuable for undersized and medium-sized varieties. Usually the difference reaches IQ-25 cm (depending on the height of the variety).
© Author: Anastasia GULIS, collector, Minsk
CHRYSANTHEMUM – STAR OF THE AUTUMN GARDEN
Autumn flower beds are in no way inferior in their brightness and diversity to summer ones, but only if chrysanthemums bloom in the garden in the fall.
Whatever type of chrysanthemum you plant, your autumn flower garden will always look bright and attractive. You can admire the beauty of these cheerful plants for a very long time, inhaling their tart and unique aroma.
I grow both Korean chrysanthemums (they are also called oaks because of the curly shape of the leaves) and multiflora chrysanthemum.
Korean chrysanthemums They attract me with their beauty, variety of forms, as well as the ability to bloom right up to the snow and tolerate low temperatures.
Without shelter, Korean chrysanthemums winter well in the southern regions, and in the middle zone they will need a light “blanket” of dry foliage.
Multiflora is a special variety group of perennial chrysanthemums with a spherical bush shape and abundant flowering. They do not require shaping or pinching, since the ability to form perfect spherical bushes is genetically inherent in the plant.
The color of the flowers of the multiflora chrysanthemum can be pink, crimson, beetroot, cherry red, burgundy, orange, yellow, lilac-lilac, carmine. Flower shape - single and double row, semi-double and double, anemone-like, pompom. But when growing multiflora chrysanthemum, you need to keep in mind that it is a young plant that requires constant rejuvenation. The multiflora chrysanthemum can grow in one place for about 3 years, after which it is advisable to dig it up, divide it and plant new bushes in another place. If you ignore this important moment in the life of a plant, it will lose its unique shape, turning into a shapeless bush with branches falling apart to the sides. Over time, without regular cuttings and division, the multiflora chrysanthemum completely degenerates.
Some varieties produce few young shoots (replacement shoots); if there are none at all, the plant will disappear. If the bush has produced a lot of root shoots, plant them one at a time. Even a rooted cutting will turn into a ball in one shoot.
LANDING AND CARE
Most Spring is considered a favorable time for planting chrysanthemums.. But I buy chrysanthemums most often in the fall, when mass sales of this plant begin. When purchasing, I always pay attention to the presence of young shoots near the central trunk. I try to plant the plants before mid-October so that they take root well.
I prepare the soil for planting chrysanthemums in advance. I dig up and add humus (about 10 kg per sq.m.), I always put drainage at the bottom of the planting hole, it can be expanded clay or sand.
Both Korean chrysanthemum and multiflora grow in my flower garden not far from each other, in a sunny and spacious, open place. Lack of lighting leads to elongation of shoots, weakening of plants, and a shift in the flowering period characteristic of the variety.
It is especially important to have free space for multiflora, so that they can subsequently grow a beautiful ball. Therefore, I leave at least 50 cm between plants in rows and row spacing. I never plant multiflora under trees, otherwise the plant will lose its spherical shape and bloom sparingly.
I try to plant chrysanthemums on a slight hill, where moisture does not accumulate after rains and winter thaws.
The ideal soil for chrysanthemums is loose, moisture-permeable, with an optimal amount of nutrients (neutral pH is desirable).
Young specimens especially need adequate nutrition, especially in the first 6-8 weeks, when the vegetative mass is growing. For its development, I feed the plants with nitrogen fertilizers. From organics I use mullein.
During the budding period I give fertilizing phosphorus-potassium fertilizers (phosphorus helps plants bloom profusely and for a long time, increases their immunity and frost resistance, and potassium has a positive effect on the health of chrysanthemums and the beauty of inflorescences).
In the fall, I add wood ash (100 g per sq.m.) under the plants. Nitrogen fertilizers and organic matter cannot be used in the fall: nitrogen will promote the growth of young shoots, which will greatly weaken the plants on the eve of wintering.
Chrysanthemum is a short-day plant. In the conditions of the middle zone, the formation and formation of inflorescences occurs in August - September. To speed up flowering, you can shorten the daylight hours of plants by artificially shading them (2 hours in the morning and evening).
HOW TO PRESERVE CHRYSANTHEMUMS IN WINTER
I don’t cover Korean chrysanthemums for the winter; the plants are well preserved under the snow. Lunges mainly occur only if moisture stagnates for a long time where they grow. In addition, under an excessively warm shelter, plants often damp out rather than be damaged by frost.
Chrysanthemums resume their growth in the spring from horizontal shoots, and it is these that need to be preserved until spring. After the first frost, I cut the bushes of such chrysanthemums to a height of 15-20 cm above the ground and treat them with any copper-containing preparation (Khom, Oksikh) to prevent fungal diseases. After the soil is slightly frozen, I mulch the bush along with its offspring with humus or simply hill it up.
In more northern regions, it is advisable to cover Korean chrysanthemums (for example, with spruce branches). It is advisable to do this in November, when stable sub-zero temperatures have established. This should not be done too early to prevent the plants from overheating.
But the chrysanthemum has multiflora (it is very heat-loving) and I put the mother bushes in the basement for wintering. To do this, I cut off the shoots of the plants, leaving about 10-15 cm from the soil level, dig up the bushes, plant them in pots and send them to the basement, where the temperature in winter is 2-3°C. I do not water the chrysanthemum during this period. She should remain in such conditions for about three months.
A frost-free veranda or loggia, where the temperature in winter is up to 5°C, is also suitable for storing multiflora chrysanthemums. The temperature should not exceed 8°C, otherwise the chrysanthemum will begin to grow and will stretch without light.
But such a chrysanthemum will not like being in an apartment in winter at all: at this time it needs low temperatures and the absence of light.
You shouldn’t put away the multiflora chrysanthemum for storage too early: you can provoke the appearance of shoots ahead of schedule.
Chrysanthemum mother plants can begin to grow even in winter during thaws. In this case, two options are possible: move them to a cooler place or expose the chrysanthemum to light (organize additional lighting). Then you will have to start cuttings much earlier.
One can keep chrysanthemums in storage. To do this, you need to dig a trench about 50 cm wide and deep, cover the bottom with a layer of pine needles or sawdust, place the dug chrysanthemums close to each other and sprinkle the roots with dry wood sawdust in a layer of up to 50 cm. Cover the top of the trench with boards, and spread a plastic sheet on top to protect from moisture film.
© Author: Julia Kupina, experienced florist Photo from the author's album
CHRYSANTHEMUM FLOWER-SUN
I admire and admire chrysanthemums in the garden in summer and at home in winter. They are completely hassle-free. In addition, they bloom for a long time (6-8 weeks). The main thing during this period is to regularly remove fading flowers so that new buds can form.
SOW IN FEBRUARY
The plant can be propagated by dividing the bush, cuttings, but I prefer seeds (I take perennial species). I sow in containers with high walls, in small grooves, and cover with glass. Shoots do not appear quickly. I feed the seedlings with supercompost, dissolving 1-2 tbsp. in 1 liter of water. I plant the grown seedlings in separate cups, and at the end of May I plant them in open ground.
FRESH AIR
– Chrysanthemums are very sun-loving, however, at midday I shade them from direct rays.
I water it moderately at the root with rain or settled tap water. To retain moisture, I often loosen the soil under the bushes.
I feed the plants at least three times per season (the last time in the fall), alternating mineral and organic fertilizers. During the budding period - phosphorus-potassium mixtures (for example, nitrophoska).
HAPPY IN THE HOUSE
For the winter, I dig up chrysanthemums, transplant them into large flowerpots and place them on a cool windowsill, where they continue to delight with their bright colors.
After flowering, I remove dry leaves and inflorescences and cut the above-ground part to a height of 10-15 cm. I water it, leave it to rest for a couple of days, then put it in the basement.
In the spring I plant them in open ground, replacing old bushes with seedlings of new varieties.
© Author: Elena KOYOCHIGOVA. Kirov
CHRYSANTHEMUMS WILL “LIT” AT ANY TIME
It's almost the end of winter, and the supermarket is selling chrysanthemums in bloom. Shouldn't they be resting at this time? Is it possible to take cuttings from a purchased plant?
Valentina MARTYNOVA, St. Petersburg
Chrysanthemums can bloom at any time, so they are available for sale almost all year round.
This is a short day plant. When industrially grown, the bushes are immediately placed in conditions of an 8-9 hour day, and after 6-15 weeks (depending on the variety) they bloom. Natural formation of buds begins when daylight hours are less than 14 hours, that is, as a rule, by autumn.
Of course, you can cut a bush (after flowering). Just keep in mind that such shoots often produce taller chrysanthemums than the original mother specimen. Since it was grown using retardants - substances that inhibit vegetative growth and accelerate flowering. The cuttings are already free from them and grow naturally. If the light regime is observed, they can bloom several months after rooting.
© Author: Olga Timoshina, biologist, collector
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I choose chrysanthemums in the fall, but I plant them in the spring. In the fall, I write down the names of the varieties that I like, and then I look for information about them so that they take root in my climate.
Chrysanthemum ages quickly. For 2-3 years it blooms magnificently, and then it grows strongly, the flowers become small. Therefore, cuttings of chrysanthemums from late May to September. Cuttings take root well, quickly become a beautiful and strong plant.
You can also propagate chrysanthemum by dividing the bush in the spring, when frost has already been excluded. I dig a bush a little, clean it from the ground, separate the young with a sharp knife, plant it, slightly deepening the roots, water it abundantly.
This flower loves light, non-acidic soil, good drainage (dampness can have a bad effect on its wintering). My chrysanthemum grows in a high flower bed, so water stagnation is not terrible for it.
In chrysanthemum, the roots are located shallow, so I do not overdry the plant. With insufficient watering, the stems become coarse, the leaves and flowers - small, which greatly spoils the appearance of the chrysanthemum.
Chrysanthemums tolerate partial shade well, but I grow in a well-lit area. After planting the plant and until July, I feed the flowers with water-soluble complex fertilizers intended for these plants.
In August, I feed with phosphorus-potassium fertilizers. In the fall, after the end of flowering, I apply mineral fertilizers - under each bush, 3 tbsp. l. bone meal.
Before freezing, I cut the bushes, leaving hemp high
about 10 cm. In mid-October, I mulch with sawdust, needles or bark. I don’t use fallen leaves. they will get wet and the roots may rot.
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A beautiful chrysanthemum is growing in my garden. I want the same to decorate the site behind the house,
Tell me what is needed in order for the cuttings to grow roots for sure?
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This procedure can be carried out throughout May. First of all, you need healthy cuttings 7-8 cm long with four developed leaves, one of which is removed. The base of the cutting should be neither hard nor soft, since the lignified tissue delays rooting, and the soft tissue is easily subject to decay.
The safest way is to root the cuttings in aloe juice. From a 3-4-year-old agave, you need to cut off several lower leaves, wrap them in black paper and put them on the lower shelf of the refrigerator for 10 days. Then scroll the leaves in a meat grinder, and strain the resulting mass. For 30 ml of aloe add 1 tablet of heteroauxin, ground into powder. Cuttings are placed in this mass by 2-3 cm. When using such a growth stimulator, which must be constantly renewed and thoroughly mixed, the roots are formed 1,5-2 times faster than usual.
After that, the cuttings can be planted in a substrate of loose loamy soil, river sand and humus (20: 10: 1).
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Chrysanthemums can be propagated by dividing the bush, or by cuttings. To do this, you need to select the mother bush in the fall, which will give healthy offspring.
It is better to dig this bush and transplant it into a container (basin or bucket), bring it into a cool room - a basement, a glazed balcony, into a heated greenhouse or greenhouse. In the spring, put the container with the bush in a warmer, well-lit place, water and feed.
When the sprouts grow up, you need to cut them off carefully with a clean blade and plant in the prepared substrate. It is recommended to use peat tablets for these purposes, which should be pre-soaked in boiled water.
Cardboard egg trays are well suited for rooting, only you need to insert them one into one so that they do not get wet ahead of time.
Then put a peat tablet in each cell and plant chrysanthemum cuttings there. Place trays in large plastic bags and close tightly.
Once a day, cuttings need to be ventilated, accustoming them to open air.
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In the fall, I bought an unusual bush - a yellow chrysanthemum (pictured). . Please tell us about her preferences. How to care for it and when can you breed?
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- This is a solidaster (Solidaster) - a natural hybrid of aster and solidago. It is often called beaded aster. Blooms profusely and for a long time from the middle of summer. If old inflorescences are removed, new ones appear until late autumn. Flowers withstand the first frost. Only prolonged rains can spoil the picture. The plant is unpretentious, winter hardy. The only condition is landing in a sunny place. In the shade, the stems stretch out, the flowers (and so small) become even smaller. The bush loses its decorative effect. In a bright place, it looks great! Over the years it grows and looks like a light yellow cloud.
May lie down in windy weather. Therefore, adult plants need support, especially for higher varietal plants, for example, in the Lemore variety, the height is 90 cm, and in Super - up to 1,3 m.
The solidaster is propagated by dividing the bush (every 4-5 years in spring or autumn, after flowering) and seeds. Since they are light-sensitive, do not cover with soil.
Maria SHAROVA, biologist, Voronezh
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Not once had heard how the landlords proudly talk about the fact that they have just huge bushes of chrysanthemums. Yes, and grow, despite the weeds and thickets of other flowers. These owners of mansions and cottages do not realize that chrysanthemums do not need such freemen. Sooner or later it will lead to fungal diseases of flowers.
The problem is that if you give chrysanthemums freedom, you will not be able to notice the signs of diseases and help. But these plants, despite their durability, are also susceptible to various diseases.
Another chrysanthemum does not like places (de water stagnates. And in the shade it feels out of place. If there is not enough lighting, the flowers stretch out, becoming thin and brittle. Besides, they shrink over time, which affects their beauty. At the same time and will bloom later than those chrysanthemums that are grown according to the rules.
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Advise what measures need to be taken so that the chrysanthemums do not become shallow. What leads to this is wrong care or improper air temperature?
Raisa
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Hot summer and the beginning of autumn complicate the care of chrysanthemums. Under these conditions, it is necessary to monitor the soil moisture: if it is low, the shoots will become hard, and the flowers can chop. Therefore, it is necessary to water the plants abundantly and loosen the soil beneath them.
In order for blooming chrysanthemums to please you as long as possible with their wonderful view, be sure to remove dried flowers and leaves. And in order for this plant to grow lateral shoots with new buds well and create splendor during flowering, the chrysanthemum must be periodically pinch. If too many buds appear on it that do not open for a long time, then some of these inflorescences are removed, so that the others will open up faster and be larger.
And one more important note. During the growth and development of chrysanthemums need to monitor the appearance of diseases and pests. If the summer is cold and the fall is early, the chrysanthemum will not have time to bloom in the open field. Then it is worth to pass it into the pot, bring it into the house where flowering will soon begin.
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Chrysanthemums can be broken
To keep flowers in a bouquet from my own garden for a much longer period of freshness, I cut them off early in the morning or in the evening, after sunset, making an oblique cut on the stem with a knife. I do not recommend cutting the flowers with scissors, as their blades crumple the stem of the plant.
Dahlias and cyclamens should be cut only when they open. All other flowers can be cut with buds. But autumn flowers - chrysanthemums are generally better not to cut, but to break off.
I immediately put flowers in water at room temperature, clearing the lower part of the stems from the leaves, and keep them in a dark place for at least two hours, and preferably all night. And only then I make bouquets of them, which cost a very long time.
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My dwarf chrysanthemums bloom profusely every year. I diligently take care of them, but also in open ground and in pots (I keep them in a cool room in winter), the petals become like dirty, faded, untidy. Why? How to deal with it?
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- Chrysanthemums are light-requiring, therefore they develop well and bloom only with sufficient light. Your flowers are most likely affected by septoria. This fungal disease is manifested mainly in the leaves, but it can also appear on the buds and inflorescences, which turn yellow and look dirty, as if fading.
Remove any yellowed infected petals from plants, reduce watering (the soil in the pot should not be very wet, but make sure that the sub-
the stratum was not very dry). Treat the fungicide Fundazol flowers (according to the instructions). Regularly ventilate the room where there are pots of plants. You can try planting chrysanthemums in several containers in a mixture of sod and humus earth (1: 1) with the addition of a small amount of sand.
Another possible cause of septosis is an excess of nitrogen nutrition. Therefore, do not abuse feedings.
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The aroma of the chrysanthemum is peculiar - slightly bitter, with a touch of wormwood and marigold, while fresh and not devoid of floral tenderness.
My chrysanthemums bloom in late autumn. If buds do not open and flowering does not occur, then during the development period the plant did not receive the required amount of light.
Chrysanthemum loves the coolness and fresh air, so I have it grows well and blossoms in a ventilated room with a temperature of no higher than + 18 degrees. In the heat (above + 25 degrees.) The plant is bad and little flowers, buds wither. In the summer I put chrysanthemums in the loggia, where they are until the autumn.
Grow beauties in the purchase ground. Abundantly water them as the substrate dries up, often sprinkled: in the summer - every day in the evening, in the winter - 1-2 times a week. I feed from spring to autumn once a week.
The main enemies of chrysanthemum are aphids and spider mites. To get rid of pests, I spray the plant with soapy water (1 tbsp grated laundry soap for 1 l of water), leave for 10 min., Then rinse with clean water from the spray gun. Soil in the pot during the procedure I close the package. I process every 7 days.
Decoction of onion husks protects the plant from pests and serves as a fertilizer: 1 handful pour 2 l water, boil 5 min., I insist under the lid 2 hours. I water once a week.