Dill in the shade and dill compatibility with other plants
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What does fennel like - sun or shadow?
Sometimes it happens that the most obedient culture suddenly starts hooligans and completely fights at hand. It is useless to punish it, but in the end, under the blow and you will get. Hence, it remains only to assign her a tutor.
“Dill” rebus with a catch
At my friends and friends dill grows like a weed, self-seeded and appears almost in all the beds occupied by other plantings. And anyway, if you listen, it is considered a culture unpretentious and easy to grow.
And since I had no reason not to trust experienced people (all the more so I saw some evidence with my own eyes), I tried to plant it where there was the first available free space - in partial shade.
Here it should be noted that I did it not out of contempt for dill. It's just that on my six-hundred square meters a large orchard has long since been broken, and so the well-lit sections in my domains are left alone, and all of them have already been occupied. But why should I be afraid? Dill, after all, among other things, also differs cold resistance, is not afraid of frosts, many vegetable growers sow it with dry seeds for the winter.
But it turned out that all the listed charms of dill are not available to me - in the penumbra plants grew thin, underdeveloped. And even the seeds did not germinate at all, although I sowed fresh, just bought in the store. And the vaunted compatibility of dill with other crops for some reason, too, did not work for me. And this went on for several years, after which I realized: something needs to be radically changed. But what? I will definitely not cut down fruit trees and berry plants for the sake of dill, I don’t sacrifice other vegetables either.
It remained to maximize the use of the property of dill to get along with other plantings, selecting him in the neighbors such plants that would not interfere with their joint development.
And how is it unmistakable to determine? I thought, I thought, and I came to this conclusion: it is necessary that the roots of them either be small, or go deep into the ground. Plus to this, future neighbors should have a significant range in terms of maturation.
Tell me, is this rebus uncomplicated? Are there many recommendations from experts in this regard? Yes, but they won’t help me. Here, for example, the literature says a lot about the fact that dill has very good compatibility with cucumbers and tomatoes. I don’t argue, I only plant these vegetables in the greenhouses quite tightly, and therefore dill does not receive the necessary freedom and light. I already tried it - I didn’t get branded umbrellas, but thin frail blades of grass.
See also: Dill - useful properties, varieties and tips for growing
Drawing for dill on the paper
And I began to sort out the possible options. My choice fell on beets, although I did not find any mention of such neighborhood in books or on the Internet. However, I decided to conduct my experiment. I must say that I plant all small seeds (including beets), previously pasted on paper strips.
Someone does not like this method, and I am so very much, since the time spent for planting and further thinning (essentially, it generally does not need any more) is saved. And the sprouts themselves feel free from the first minutes of their life, they are well illuminated, and as a result, the yield increases significantly and the risk of diseases of plants decreases.
But for convenience and speeding up the “sowing” of dill seeds on paper, I made a template: I cut a strip 20 cm wide and 1 m long from a Whatman paper and marked out 5 × 5 cm squares with a bright red felt-tip pen at an equal distance from each other.
What is the essence? And the fact that when applying toilet paper over it over it all this marking is easily seen.
So, on the table, he spread out a template, he fixed a few landing tapes at once with clips and a drop of starch paste on the line of translucent squares on the line of a pointed match. In each later he placed on the seed of beets. Then, between each second and third of its seeds pasted on "dill and not."
Thus, I "automatically" condensed the crops of these cultures with each other.
On a narrow patch 50 wide, he made grooves, spilled them with water, then laid the tapes down with seeds and sprinkled a layer of humus about 1,5 on the top. He began to wait for what would come of it all, especially since last spring (and then summer) is unpleasant surprised by weather anomalies, forcing the shift in the planting of all crops for two (or more) weeks later than usual.
But shoots in the experimental garden appeared at the estimated time. And most importantly, the neighbors then lived together. During their growth, he spent two top dressings: first with a small amount of organic fertilizers, and then with ash.
See also: Dill - growing and application
If several plants grew from the beetles' beetles, then I did not pull them out by thinning, but simply plucked them at the soil level.
It is important that during this operation the root system of the remaining germs was not damaged. Well, dill didn’t need such a procedure either - it grew like a madman (which I had long dreamed about). He was consumed fresh all summer (when his umbrellas had not yet turned and bloomed, he was the most fragrant and delicious), they were used to the point in pickles, and also dried (as friends advised).
In autumn several umbrellas decided to leave on the seeds for sowing. I collected them when the inflorescences were already brown. Cut off in dry weather with a part of the stems and placed in paper bags, folding them in a dry room. After a while, the seeds, dried up, themselves fell off the umbrellas, and then I only had to pour them from sachets into a glass jar with a lid.
Of course, this season I will again plant dill with beets according to a proven scheme. If you are interested in my experiment, try to repeat it yourself - it will work!
© Author: Viktor Pavlovich AKIMOV. Moscow
Below other entries on the topic "Dacha and garden - with their own hands"
- Growing wild garlic on the site - varieties, planting and care
- Pumpkin "Candied" and "Winter" - an unusual way of growing and review of varieties
- What to sow in the fall? Advice from gardeners and professionals
- What and how to sow before winter - features of winter sowing
- Yam cultivation - from planting to storage
- How to grow a watermelon - early ripening varieties, recipes from watermelon
- DIY MINI-GARDEN on the windowsill - vegetables at home
- How to prolong the fruiting of tomatoes, eggplants, peppers, cucumbers
- Growing peas all summer - planting secrets
- Growing zucchini and squash in boxes and boxes and my recipes from them
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Dill of early varieties pleases with the first harvest of young leaves, but is especially good because it blooms early, quickly forms “umbrellas”. What is very useful for twists - fragrant additives to marinades, pickles.
Dill of mid-season varieties is universal. True, in cool summer weather, the seeds on their inflorescences do not ripen, therefore, in other northern regions, it is sown mainly on greens.
Dill of late varieties blooms late, is intended for growing the main, long-lasting salad greens, which are harvested many times over several weeks.
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If dill turns yellow
I usually do not feed dill during growth. But if I notice that the branches begin to turn yellow, I spill the bed with a solution of herbal mash, mullein (1:10) or urea (1 tsp per 10 liters of water). After that, I do not pick the dill greens for at least three days.
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This master grows with me everywhere: in the spring and in July, I just scatter his seeds in all the beds. I noticed that with such a sowing, it grows into a large bunchy bush.
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Speeding dill
To dill sprouted sooner, a week before sowing, fill the seeds with hot (+45 deg.) Water. After 10-15 minutes, filter, rinse under cold water and repeat hot “bathing” twice. I wrap the heated seeds in moist gauze, put it in a jar and keep it warm. I dip them in warm water once or twice a day. Sowing to a depth of 1,5 cm in moist soil. After a week I notice the first shoots.
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I noticed several times that dill is not growing as fragrant as my mother-in-law. The real discovery for me was that dill loses its flavor if grown on a shaded bed or if ash or lime is added to the soil before sowing seeds.
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It is believed that dill is a plant that pests bypass. However, this is not so: sometimes aphids settle on it. The complexity of the fight against them lies in the fact that no insecticides can be used, because we mainly use dill without any heat treatment.
Even to wash off aphids from openwork greens is not an easy task. So, it is necessary to destroy the mash even on a vegetative plant with the help of folk remedies. One of the most effective is prepared from potato or tomato tops. You need to take 2 kg of this raw material, grind it, pour a bucket of hot water, boil for 30 minutes, and then insist for at least 3 hours.
In the resulting infusion, add 30-40 g of grated laundry or 30 ml of liquid soap — for better adhesion — and spray the plants. It is better to do this in the early morning or evening.
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TO DETERMINE THE FROZEN
Dill does not like sour soil, so in the fall I put lime, ash or dolomite flour on the garden under it for oxidation.
You can not sow dill in the shade - there it will stretch and shoot early, the leaves, as a rule, are pale.
He is afraid of drought - it blooms and does not give lush greens; and vice versa - with regular watering it grows well and gives lush, juicy greens.
Due to the essential oils, dill seeds are tightly similar, so I wash them in hot water in a cloth bag before sowing and then soak them for 2-3 days, changing the water. On the advice of a neighbor, I soak the seeds in warm milk or yogurt - the result is also excellent.
In the ground before sowing I close up half a bucket of humus on 1 square meters. m and spill a solution of mullein (1: 10), biohumus or make mineral fertilizers (1 st. l "Kemira-universal" on 1 sq. m).
As my experience has shown, dill is best sown not in one line, but in a wide stripe - 5-6 cm.
I make the grooves with the side of the board, pressing it onto the 1-2 cm across the spilled bed.
In the 2-3 phase of these leaves dill thinned, leaving between the plants 8-10, see
In order to be with fresh dill green all season, I sow seeds every 2-3 weeks. In early April, early ripening varieties, in the second half of summer - late ripening, which, in addition to greenery, also provide umbrellas for canning.
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If you want to get dill with a rich taste, sow it in a sunny place. The fact is that in the shade of this plant the aroma of the leaves decreases. In addition, do not make ashes and lime for this culture.
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Last year, in early August, sowed dill. He grew weak, with red leaves. Why did this happen, maybe I sowed it late?
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Dill can be sown until the third decade of August, so by the time you are not late. Let's understand. Usually dill blushes when there is a lot of lime in the soil. Therefore, before sowing, do not recommend lime or ash.
And that the leaves do not acquire a yellow-violet color, do not sow fennel in the lowland, where the water is close to the surface of the soil. If you want dill not to stretch and not turn pale, do not thicken the crops. The optimal distance between rows 20-25 cm, between plants is not less than 10, see. And if you have a sprawling shrub variety, plants should be located through 15-20, see.
When plants are weak, it means they lack nutrients. It is necessary to feed dill 1-2 times with a solution of Mullein, diluted with water (1: 6) or chicken manure (1: 20). You can use for fertilizing and mineral water, diluting in an 10-liter bucket for 1 st. a spoonful of urea and potassium sulfate. By the way, usually dill is not fed, but if the soil is depleted, it must be done.