Garden and vegetable garden without chemicals from A to Z: mulching siderates and folk remedies
Contents ✓
- ✓ Recall the recent past
- ✓ How to deal with various pests by people?
- ✓ PEOPLE RECIPES TO COMBAT PUBLIC HEALTH AND GARDENS
- ✓ FIGHT AGAINST ANTS
- ✓ SECRET WEAPON
- ✓ Biological methods of struggle
- ✓ GARDEN WITHOUT FERTILIZERS - MULCHING
- ✓ Main elements
- ✓ Preparing the potion
- ✓ Features
- ✓ WHAT IS SUITABLE FOR MULCHING?
- ✓ GENERAL MULCHING RULES
- ✓ MULCHAGRAM - REVIEWS OF THE SPECIALIST
- ✓ GREEN FERTILIZER - SIDERATES
- ✓ 5 reasons to use siderates
- ✓ Do I need to mediate?
- ✓ WHEN TO SOW SITES?
- ✓ How to use?
- ✓ Different siderates - video comparison
CAN I NOT CHEMISTRY IN THE GARDEN?
IS THIS POSSIBLE WHEN IN THE GARDENER'S ARSENAL SUFFICIENTLY EFFICIENT MEANS FOR COMBATING DISEASES AND HARMFUL INSECTS ... THEREFORE, WHEN WE BEGIN TO SPRAY AND BROTHER, DO NOT THINK BEFORE SHOULD BE DRINKED. LET'S THINK HOW TO REDUCE THE APPLICATION OF CHEMICALS TO MINIMUM
© Author: NATALIA GNATOVSKAYA, the champion of ecological farming.
Recall the recent past
People of the older generation, I'm sure, remember that years ago 50 "chemistry" was in great fashion. The chemicalization of agriculture was even declared an indispensable condition for the victory of communism in our country.
At a modest pace, the production of mineral fertilizers grew, tons of which were scattered in the fields. Thus, they tried to increase the yield, the good that in our country there are large reserves of raw materials for the production of potash, nitrogen and phosphoric fertilizers. All this was washed away by flood and rain water into rivers and fell into underground waters and eventually into wells.
Unfortunately, a wide range of other pesticides and fungicides are still used in industrial crop production. Currently, the production of insect and disease control products has become a profitable business. They are packaged in ampoules of 1-2 ml and sold in any garden centers - all kinds of drugs with a wide spectrum of action from everything that moves and moves. The spectrum is supplemented by funds from powdery mildew and various spots, curly, phytosporosis, rust. Well, the traditional ones are Hom, Bordeaux mixture, iron and copper sulfate, colloidal sulfur ...
It is worth recalling that when processing the garden should strictly adhere to the instructions for breeding drugs, otherwise you will cause irreparable harm not only to yourself and your family members, but to other inhabitants living with you side by side.
FOR THE NOTICE
You need to know that copper preparations are toxic to foliage; they must be treated (if already processed) plants before the leaves are blossoming and sprouts appear. Otherwise, either the burnt leaves will disappear altogether, or the plants will "douche" until the middle of summer, since copper-containing preparations are poorly washed away by rain.
Think about pets! During spraying, dogs should be kept in the house or taken somewhere away from the site for a walk. If they breathe this muck, they can lose their scent, their appetite (poison poisonous to warm-blooded creatures!), And they can earn allergies: they don’t need much ... Cats also have nothing to do at this time: drops of solution that can get onto the skin then they will lick and also expose their fragile organism to unnecessary danger.
Exceptional concentrations of any solutions seep into the ground and gubyatts all living things. Even at depths, earthworms, our assistants in the production of humus, writhe in agony and die. He gets to poor toads, and frogs - catchers mosquitoes and midges.
These are all real threats with long-term consequences, so the use of chemistry in the garden should be minimized and try to use natural remedies. It's time to think it over, the more our grandfathers somehow managed without it - the gardens bloomed and fructified.
How to deal with various pests by people?
Caterpillars of hawthorn, golden-goat, May bug
- Grind 1 kg stalks delphinium, pour 10 l water, insist two days, strain, spray.
Sawfly
- 1 / 3 buckets of wood ash insist in 10 l water two days, drain.
- Or: 100 g dry mustard pour 10 l boiling water, insist two days, strain, dilute before spraying with water in the proportion of 1: 1.
Aphids, coffins, mites
200 g onion husks insist in 10 l warm water 4-5 days, strain and spray 3 times with an interval of 5 days. Or: 400 g makhorka pour 10 l hot water, insist two days, add 40 g of liquid soap.
Aphids, mites
- half a bucket of flowering marigolds (for a good cause, nothing is a pity!) pour 10 l of warm water, insist two days, strain, add 40 g of liquid soap.
- 800 g of crushed yarrow herb collected in the meadows at the beginning of flowering, scalded with boiling water, add an 10-liter bucket of water to the top, insist at least 48 hours. Strain and, as usual, add soap.
- 100-150 g of chopped garlic cloves (passed through the garlick) to insist in 10 l of water for 24 hours, strain and freshly sprayed plants immediately. Leaf-gnawing caterpillars, sawflies, moths, fruit moths
- Boil 4 kg of healthy tomato tops in 10 l of water for 30 minutes, strain, add 2-3 l of broth to 10 l, add 40 g of soap (you can - 2 tbsp.spoons of liquid dishwashing liquid); spray plants with an interval of 1-2 weeks. Sucking pests, caterpillars, sawfly larvae
- 1 kg of chamomile leaves and flowers (you can use expired pharmacy raw materials), infuse in 10 l of hot water (60-70 ° C) for half a day, strain, dilute with water 3 times, add 40 g of soap for every 10 l of working solution.
Apple moth, various caterpillars, larvae of the sawfly half a bucket of ground wormwood pour in 10 l of water, insist for 24 hours, then boil 30 minutes, strain, dilute in the proportion of 1: 1, before sprinkling add 40 g of liquid soap (or 2 tbsp liquid for dishes) per 10 l solution.
PEOPLE RECIPES TO COMBAT PUBLIC HEALTH AND GARDENS
Let's return to these grandfather methods, especially as it fits the concept of an ecological garden as well as possible.
A horticulturist, who holds ecological views, should adopt the ways of protecting the garden, which do not harm the environment. We are talking about the so-called folk remedies for pest control. Here everything goes on: garlic, onion husk, wood ash, tomato tops, wormwood, chamomile, yarrow, marigold, dandelion, tansy, even delphinium.
FIGHT AGAINST ANTS
Ants molest the gardener, whole hordes landing the landing on the buds of peonies.
They love to feast on nectar, which buds secrete. But they are dangerous - because they lovingly breed aphids, which Karl Linnaeus called the "cash cow" for ants. To discourage them, you just need to wash or spray the buds with soapy water. And the places of accumulation of these insects, pour boiling water. This may not be the most humane operation, but effective, avoiding the use of chemicals.
The meaning of all the recipes is to make the infusion of these plants, which in certain concentrations are sprayed garden. It helps to effectively fight against aphids, ticks, meds, leaf-eating caterpillars, cruciferous flea, sawfly, gooseberry flea, moth, moth, nematode and other pests.
Mučnistaâ rosa
We offer proven recipes that have accumulated folk wisdom.
Powdery mildew, affecting roses, phlox, peonies, grapes: the struggle boils down to the suppression of pathogens-fungi.
A well-known method of combating powdery mildew, which poisons the life of a gardener, especially in a damp and cold summer, is the treatment with a soap solution of soda ash (50 g soda - 2 spoonfuls per 10 liters of water with the addition of grinded laundry soap or 1 spoonfuls of liquid for washing dishes). The treatment should be performed at the first signs of the disease several times at intervals of a week.
Very simple method - to dilute in 10 l of warm water (in a bucket just pour the kettle or another boiling water) 100 g mustard powder, not only spray the plants, but also spill the earth to suppress the pathogen.
A universal tool - potassium permanganate, diluted in the proportion 5 g / 10l water.
It works well against diseases and an ash solution, which is prepared from 1 kg of wood ash, diluted in an 10-liter bucket of water. It is not used immediately - it is insisted for 7 days, filter and add 20 g soap for better leaf wettability. Pedantically used every other day.
Effective means - mullein infusion. A third of Mullein buckets are topped up with water, insist 3 days, filter and add to the resulting suspension another 3 part of the water. Process until flowering!
See also: Spraying the garden in the spring - with chemistry and without (reminder to the gardener)
Botritis, or gray rot
A dangerous mushroom disease of pions and lilies, capable of ruining all plantings, if not to take timely measures.
Prevention is the correct planting of bushes, they can not be thickened. Peonies should be well ventilated, this is important in wet, rainy weather.
SECRET WEAPON
I can share the old "secret "recipe for processing phlox, which passed to me from my grandmother. Phloxes should be poured "from the head", starting from May and right up to the beginning of flowering, with a weak solution of the contents of the night pots (diluted approximately by 15 l or two 7-liter watering cans). This procedure should be carried out daily, processing in a circle their plantings of phlox. The effect is amazing, just do not be lazy!
It is forbidden to introduce manure into the stalk growth zone.
Twice a year, in spring until the shoots grow and in autumn after trimming, the land should be powdered with ash with sand, so the fungus is destroyed and the soil around is dried.
Proper agricultural technology - low trimming of stems and their burning in autumn - will help prevent the spread of diseases (not only gray rot, but also various patches and ring mosaic).
Well helps a solution of potassium permanganate color.
Biological methods of struggle
Strictly speaking, the use of both ash, and potassium permanganate, and soda ash is also the application of "chemistry", but not so devastating to the life and health of living beings, including us. Now the so-called biological methods of fighting harmful insects, based on the use of their natural enemy-entomophages, are increasingly being used.
Among them is the well-known ladybird, whose larvae, in the process of their development, destroy aphids, scabbards, ticks. The beetles eat the sawfly and the gall midges, the lacewings are a thunderstorm for the same aphids. Therefore, all efforts should be made to create conditions for maintaining a population of beneficial insects: do not cut the grass completely, leaving in the garden corners of untouched vegetation.
Among the indispensable biological means of struggle there are also various insectivorous birds, our faithful allies in the battle for the harvest - tits, flycatchers, starlings and rooks. And also toads and frogs, lizards, moles, shrews, hedgehogs, owls and bats.
In recent years, the newest preparations based on the use of the microbiological method have been developed - when strains of bacteria are used that kill spider mites, three dogs, a whitefly and other harmful insects. Live microorganisms, bacteria, viruses and fungi produce toxins, antibiotic substances that are deadly to pests and allow a sharp reduction in the population of harmful insects. For example, such drugs as "Agravertin" and "Phytoverm" are in the group current weevil, as well as cruciferous fleas;
"Entomem-F" and "Nemobakt" are especially effective against wireworm and cabbage fly, they well handle potatoes before planting.
Most of the biopreparations belong to the 4 class of danger, has a short waiting period, that is, just a few days after treatment, you can harvest.
Insectofungicides
A modern generation of drugs with fungistatic action is used to combat powdery mildew, various rot, spotted spots, septoriosis. Among them - a new insectofungicide complex action "Gaupsin", which consists of bacteria-antagonists of soil phytopathogens, as well as a wide range of insect pests.
The drug increases germination and stimulates plant growth, increases their resistance to adverse environmental conditions.
It inhibits up to 95% of fungal diseases, including effective against black spot, but it is not toxic to humans, fish, bees and other representatives of the biocenosis, does not accumulate in the soil.
FOR THE NOTICE
Most of the fungicides that act against plant diseases also have a growth-stimulating effect, which is especially valuable.
In particular, the well-known "Fitosporin" of wide action is used in combating powdery mildew in phlox, black spotting in roses. The effectiveness of its action increases several times when used together with humates, in particular with the drug "Gumi". It has been proved that the treatment of potato tubers with the microbiological fungicide "Binoram" yields striking results. The drug "Bactofit" is effective against powdery mildew, late blight, black leg, used for presowing treatment of seeds and tubers. Against phytopathogens, the drugs "Gliokladin", "Alirin" and "Gamair", already evaluated by advanced gardeners, are used.
GARDEN WITHOUT FERTILIZERS - MULCHING
MULCHING - TODAY IS AN AGRICULTURAL RECEPTION SIGN TO EVERY GARDENER. IT'S DIFFICULT TO FIND A GARDEN IN WHICH THE BLACK FILM, CHIP, GRAVEL AND CUTTED GRASS WOULD NOT BE APPLIED TO COVER THE SOIL ON THE PLEDS, IN FLOWER AND SLEEPING CIRCLES. BUT WHAT MORE WE KNOW ABOUT THIS METHOD, THERE MORE SURPRISES IT WITH ITS EFFICIENCY
Literally in front of the mulching has become an incredibly popular method. He was recognized by everyone, from urban landscapers, farmers and advanced gardeners to the most conservative grandmothers-gardeners. Such popularity is explained:
- Availability - material for mulching can always be found at hand;
- simplicity of execution and universality of action.
Mulching allows
- simultaneously to solve set of the diversified problems,
- protect the soil: from overheating and hypothermia;
- weathering and evaporation of moisture from the soil surface;
- siltation and cracking; overgrowth of weeds; attacks of various pests and diseases.
Mulch can serve as a garden ornament, to become even a certain artistic element (if it is a gravel garden or forest corners with litter of needles, bark, cones).
But one of the most important tasks of mulching (and especially on poor clay, sandy and peat soils of the Non-Black Earth Region) is the enrichment of the soil and the improvement of its structure.
See also: We get rid of pests without chemicals - folk remedies
Main elements
First of all, it is important to consider that all mulching organic materials can be divided into 2 groups. And Containing a lot of nitrogen (sloping and weeded grass, siderates, humus, compost) - they enrich the soil.
Containing a lot of carbon (hay, straw, fallen foliage, sawdust, shredded branches) - they create a soil structure.
Both these elements are necessary for the inhabitants of the soil, creating the humus layer, for growth and reproduction. Nitrogen is used in the processes of creating proteins, enzymes and building up cellular biomass, and carbon serves as a source of energy for them.
But the rate of repartition (processing by microorganisms) of mulching materials is different for all, and it depends on many factors:
- state of the soil (on fertile, rich in microflora and microfauna, these processes go much faster);
- its structure (oxygen, contained in the loose light earth, stimulates all processes);
- temperature and weather conditions (in the cold rainy summer everything gets stalled, decay may begin);
- thickness of the mulching layer;
- qualities of the materials themselves.
Grass and foliage can be perepret for a month, and for a bark of a large fraction, chips, chopped branches it will take years. But wait for long years, until things go natural and very unhurried (especially in the middle band of Russia) by, now nobody wants, after all, many drugs have been invented that speed up the re-sipping of organic materials.
Preparing the potion
Today, every enthusiastic horticulturist is already a bit pedologist and a bit microbiologist. After all, to understand the already existing and constantly emerging new biohumus solutions, phyto-drugs and EM-preparations, with microorganisms contained in them - aerobic and anaerobic microbes, nitrogen-fixing bacteria and other vital trifles - without theoretical preparation it becomes increasingly difficult.
Especially because ready-made drugs some experts in every way promote and promote, others - criticize.
Therefore, many go in a simple way - they prepare herbal infusions and infusions of mullein, composted teas.
The microbial mixtures include milk, whey, sugar, honey, yeast - everything that makes it possible to develop sour-milk and other useful bacteria involved in the decomposition of organic matter. Spilled by such solutions, the soil under the mulch or on it accelerates these processes.
What to prefer, everyone will have to decide on their own. There is no ready-made recipe - one at all - that can not be, it all depends on the specific conditions and possibilities.
Even in one area (strangely enough, often even in different beds), the soil can differ quite a lot in a number of parameters: composition, structure, acidity, humidity, shading: and each has its own choice of mulching materials, so it is better to operate by trial and error , experiencing completely different options for mulching and solutions that accelerate the process of decomposition, and choosing the most effective in your particular case.
But gardening - this is the process of infinite knowledge, the testing of nature and free creativity (limited only by the laws of being) than it is, in fact, extremely interesting.
Features
The crumbled herbs of nettle, yarrow, comfrey, legumes, Jerusalem artichoke, mown grass, siderata plants, weed-weed are useful for high nitrogen content and other micro-and macro-nutrients useful for plants.
* Compost, humus - a large number of useful substances makes them an excellent mulching material and at the same time nitrogen fertilizer. In the second half of the summer, it is not recommended to apply, as this can cause increased vegetation of perennial plants.
Straw keeps well heat in the soil, enriches it with carbon.
When rotting, the level of nitrogen in the soil decreases, so it is better to use it in a mixture with compost, humus.
Bark, sawdust, shavings, chips, crushed branches weakly acid reaction; In addition, such a wood material is slowly brewed and at the same time removes nitrogen from the soil; in the garden it is better to mulch the trunk circles of adult trees and shrubs with a deep root system. For young and actively growing plants, it is advisable to spread humus or compost beforehand (under the layer of mulch), and in the flower beds to pour out the chips over the black non-woven fabric, cardboard, or even a layer of perfectly ordinary newspapers.
Needles and bark of coniferous trees, peat, sleeping coffee acidify the soil - they are suitable for mulching hydrangeas, rhododendrons, heathers, ferns, conifers. The phytoncidal properties of coniferous mulch (cones, pine nut shells) suppress the growth of pathogenic microorganisms in the soil.
Shredded eggshells, gravel, gravel, sea shells differ alkaline reaction, enrich the soil with calcium; in addition, protect the plants from the invasion of slugs and snails.
WHAT IS SUITABLE FOR MULCHING?
Yes, almost everything, any organic materials (some inorganic - too, but not about them now). It is harder to say that it does not fit. Mowed grass and weed, straw, hay, chopped foliage, needles, cones, nutshells and husks of seeds, cardboard, paper, sawdust, shavings, tree bark, shredded branches, humus, peat, compost - in a word, everything from the ground came out and, according to the ancient biblical postulate, it must also go to it in order to enrich the soil and become nutritious material for other lives. But all these such different natural materials do not need to be dumped into a heap (there is composting for this) - when mulching, it is advisable to use each one with the greatest benefit and impact, understanding what and why we are using.
GENERAL MULCHING RULES
In spring the soil is mulched only after it has warmed up and will dry sufficiently. In the areas that were covered with mulch for the winter, in spring it is razed to give the earth warm up.
Before applying a layer of mulch, the area must be cleaned of weeds and loosened.
The better the grinded elements (grass, leaves, branches, bark) are included in the mulching layer, the process of decomposition will go faster.
Mulching is suitable for almost any type of soil except for excessively moisturized. Here the mulch will rot, and not pereprevat.
Heavy soils are covered with a layer of mulch no more than 2 see, since in case of insufficient ventilation stagnant decay can occur.
Mulch should not come into contact with tree trunks or bushes and plant stems.
MULCHAGRAM - REVIEWS OF THE SPECIALIST
FOR SALE, NOW EASILY FIND CIRCLES AND MATS "MULCHAGRAM" FROM COCONUT FIBER, WHICH CAN BE USED AS A MULCH. IF I BELIEVE THE MANUFACTURER, THEY AND THE SORNS ARE PROTECTED, AND FROM THE COLD SAVE, AND THE WATER IS NOT GIVING TO SPACE. Let's understand, is it true?
© Author: TATIANA SEMENOVA, Candidate of Biological Sciences
TATIANA SEMENOVA, Candidate of Biological Sciences
First let's see: what kind of "beast" is this? "Mulchagram" is a material, the basis of which consists of coconut fibers, connected together under pressure. It can be in the form of circles for mulching trees and shrubs, as well as in the form of mats of different widths - for use on beds with vegetables and berries, as well as in flower gardens.
This material is good, in my opinion, by the fact that no "chemistry" (glues and various additives) is used in its production; so if it does not benefit us, then there will be no harm from it.
Features
This covering material has a number of useful qualities: it protects plant roots from both high and low temperatures;
- passes both air and water; once again I want to repeat about the environmentally friendly production technology of this material;
- "Works" for a long time: it begins to decompose only for the third year of use.
For whom we use
There are no restrictions - this covering material can be used with almost any plants. Perhaps, only for groundcover cultures, which any mulch is contraindicated, this material will not work.
There is only one condition that should be observed when using the "Mulchagram":
Roses
To capricious tsarina blossomed perfectly and overwintered perfectly in our difficult winters, it is important to protect it from low temperatures in winter and early spring, and during the vegetation - to keep it from excess moisture and protect it from weedy vegetation. The covering material "Mulchagram" will cope with the tasks set.
The way of application is simple - just 3 steps to healthy, beautiful, lushly blooming roses.
We clear the soil around the roses from weeds and gently loosen it; it is possible to treat the earth with a solution of ferrous sulfate or a fungicide.
If you have a circular "Mulchagram" (for mulching stump-holes), then simply lay on the ground around the bush. But first you need to make sure that the central hole is of sufficient size for the normal growth of roses. If you have mats, then just measure the right size and cut off the desired piece. And again we remember about the central hole.
During spring frosts and autumn, to preserve heat at night, you can put a film on top of the material, which must be removed in the daytime.
THE EARTHQUAKE
Excellent results are shown by this covering material (in the form of mats) on garden strawberries. Just 2 steps to a bountiful harvest! since this material is dense, it is necessary to leave room for the growth of plants (make central holes in the material when planting plants “for growth”).
Excellent results show the use of this material when growing roses and strawberries.
It is best to use this material for new planting of strawberries. To do this, first we clear the site under the planting from the weeds, dig it up and apply fertilizers. Next, we lay the mats of the desired width on the prepared soil and cut holes with a diameter of at least 10 cm.
In the holes are planted strawberries. Further care does not differ from usual.
And more: slugs and various pests do not want to crawl over coconut shavings. And the berries themselves will not rot on it.
Reference by topic: Mulch and mulching of soil (photo)
GREEN FERTILIZER - SIDERATES
LET'S DEVELOP AGRICULTURE CULTURE AT ITS SITES! IT IS ALREADY TIME FOR US TO MEET THE AGRICULTURAL KNOWLEDGE OF THE NEW CENTURY. DOES NOT SECRET THAT LOTS OF LOVERS ARE LIKE TO SUSPECT ABOUT KNOWN METHODS OF INCREASING SOIL FERTILITY, RELATING TO “HANDFUL” REPRESENTATIONS. AMONG IMPORTANT WAYS THAT SHOULD BE IMPLEMENTED IN OUR LIFE - USE PLANT SEDERATES.
The less “chemistry” we use in our garden, the better. Let our fertilizers not be liquid, granular, complex or mineral - but “green”.
First, let's see: what is it? Ciderates (also called green fertilizers) are technical crops that are involved in crop rotation. They are needed to improve the fertility of the soil, improve its health and improve its structure. These include some legumes (clover, lupine, peas, alfalfa, vetch) and cruciferous (mustard, rapeseed, oil olive radish), a number of cereals (rye, buckwheat, oats).
As a green fertilizer, honey plants can also be used, attracting bees and other pollinating insects to the garden. For such a bee and bumblebee "pasture" sow marigolds, calendula and facelia.
5 reasons to use siderates
These plants need to be sown for a number of reasons.
1. They occupy empty areas after harvesting or for "resting" the land. Do not leave the earth "walking". In the absence of competition, it overgrown with weeds. Subsequently, it is worth the trouble to get rid of them. The ciders quickly increase the green mass, leaving no chance for the weeds. This is especially the case for mustard and phacelia.
2. The open land undergoes processes of water and wind erosion, gradually turning into sterile dust.
3. The use of ciderates, which accumulate a large green mass in a short time, makes it possible to increase the level of soil fertility. Green fertilizer increases the content of humus in the soil.
4. Growing green fertilizer, in addition to organic, helps to fight pests. Phacelia, for example, is considered an effective remedy against the moth, leafworm, wireworm and nematode. Mustard is not like the bear, slug, larva of the May beetle and wireworm.
5. If the nettles cover up the beds, there will not be slugs and snails.
Ciderates are simply indispensable for improving soil structure. The deep root system of most of these plants promotes soil drainage and loosening. Rye, for example, unpretentious culture, develops a powerful root system, suppresses grass and other weeds.
Its root system penetrates to a depth of up to 1,5 meters and loosens the ground.
Which is preferable?
It depends on what tasks you decide. If you need to loosen the soil, then nothing better than to plant winter rye, you can not think of.
If it is necessary to restore the fertility of the soil and enrich it with additional nitrogen - sow the beans!
alfalfa (Medicago sativa) gives several cuts per season, its biomass - easily digestible fertilizer, comparable to manure - helps to reduce the acidity of the soil and improve its structure.
All these cultures are distinguished by the ability to accumulate nitrogen from the air in nodules located on the roots, thanks to symbiosis with soil bacteria. Before sowing leafy and green crops, pumpkin and cabbage, draining beds, it is good to sow beans, peas or lupins.
But! Salad, spinach or beetroot in this case is not recommended because they accumulate nitrates, which in the ground after legumes may be more than it should.
All lupines contain alkaloids that repel the bear, larvae of the May beetle and other pests. In addition, the lupine, possessing a long rod root system, drains the soil at 1,5 m depth. By its qualities, lupine may well replace manure.
Donnik - it is used on saline and carbonate soils. It discourages mice and reduces soil contamination with nematodes and wireworm.
Mustard, alfalfa, wheat and barley have the ability to bind and remove salt impurities.
Mustard, due to the large content of sulfur in seeds and roots, frightens off the bear, slugs and larvae of the wireworm. The pathogenic microflora also tolerates sulfur compounds badly, so sowing mustard heals the soil. If you need to quickly grow mulch or material for composting - sow the radish oilseed, it grows quickly, gives the root and green mass.
Do I need to mediate?
It is necessary to alternate! The rule here is one - when sowing crops, you can not have them preceded by ciderates-relatives. This is due to the common pests and the threat of contamination of the earth by their larvae. In this case, as never, it is necessary to avoid "family ties".
Cruciferous (mustard, oil radish, rapeseed) should not be sown before, or after cabbage, radish or radish.
Fazelia - the only "orphan" who has no relatives in the garden, it is suitable for any crops.
After tomatoes and peppers, it is good to sow mustard.
After cucumber we sow lupine, fatseliyu or winter rapeseed.
WHEN TO SOW SITES?
You can sow at any time - in spring, in summer, in autumn.
But lupine is better to sow in the spring, it is in this case that it stores more nitrogen.
Do not wait for autumn to sow the siderates. As soon as any 1 garden has been vacated, sow a sideral culture. Better - early maturing. It can be mustard, rape, beans, which will still be in time before the onset of cold weather and the first frost to accumulate green mass.
And in the autumn, those beds that are intended for sowing in early spring, the tour must be sited with siderates as well as the site that is allocated for potatoes. The best predecessors for him are rye and legumes.
In autumn, it is better to use cold-resistant crops (mustard or rape), which continue to vegetate at temperatures of + 3 ... + 4 ° C and can withstand frosts.
Non-resistant cultures (phacelia, buckwheat, marigold, calendula, lupine), dying off with the first frost, cover the earth with a protective layer. After harvesting, it is often recommended to sow winter crops and vetch. Early in the spring they cut, leaving on a bed and easily closing to a depth of 2 - 3 cm. But you can not sow it immediately.
How to use?
Rule number one: the siderates should not be smelt.
Cedarata before the flowering stage should be pruned with a Fockin chopper or flat cutter below the neck of plants, at a depth of the order of two or three centimeters. Green mass - leave to rotate directly on the bed, or transfer it to compost. In a month, everything will rot, and the remaining roots will provide the soil with the necessary aeration and drainage.
1. Lupine not only decorates, but also heals the earth
2. There is no better way to protect the site from nematodes than to plant marigolds
3. mustard
4. Beans (lupine, clover, peas, vetch) can not be grown to peas, beans and beans
5. Cereals (rye, oats, buckwheat) should not be alternated with corn
6. Phacelia - a beautiful honey plant
BEDS WITHOUT CHEMISTRY
Avoiding the use of chemicals when caring for plantings contributes to the emergence of ... what do you think? Free time!
Previously, when planting tomatoes in the ground, I threw a handful of humus into the holes, a handful of ash and 1 tbsp. l. superphosphate, mixed with earth and watered. Now I have changed this scheme so as not to spread rot in the soil of worms and other useful animals. To put it simply, I have reduced chemistry to a minimum. And the harvests did not become worse from this! The technology now looks like this.
On the garden bed, I dig a groove 10 cm wide and half a shovel bayonet deep. Then I put the topmost layer of excavated soil 10 cm thick back into the trench, put a layer of humus on top, 5-8 cm, dig it up, adding ash along the way (at the rate of a half-liter jar for 1 running meter), and start planting seedlings. And not only tomatoes, but also peppers, cucumbers, eggplants. I mulch the soil around the stems with humus, water it - and that's it, I don't do anything with the seedlings for a week. I just keep track of whether it is necessary to plant a new "seedling" somewhere to replace the spoiled bear (usually two or three plants, no more).
When green pets begin to bloom, I spray them over the foliage with solutions of manganese, boric acid and micronutrient fertilizers, and I use only infusion of fermented nettle as root feeding. Moreover, I add 250 kg of yeast and a half-liter jar of sugar to a barrel with this herb (1 l) and insist all this stuff for a week. When ovaries appear on the plants, I spray it with a serum solution, diluting 2 liters in 10 liters of water and adding 20 drops of iodine.
From time to time I also add this solution (10 l) to the green fertilizer barrel.
When the roots have not yet developed too much at the plantings, after each watering, I gently loosen the ground around the trunks. And when it’s no longer possible to loosen without trauma to the roots, I cover all the rows with straw or old sawdust: the soil under such mulch remains soft, and the worms are free there, and I don’t need to bother with watering again. Especially when you consider that the payment for plumbing in our SNT is not so small. And I plant an average of 1200 roots every year.
As for the potatoes (where can I go without it!), Then I spray the leaves with the same complex fertilizer, but only twice: during flowering and two weeks after that.
Perhaps the readers will find my way of caring for plantings to seem difficult, but, as they say, you don't sink - you don't burst. I think that if you do everything slowly, with the right time allocation, then it won't be hard. And in the heat, you can relax, cook dinner, and in the evening walk around the garden again - water, spray, loosen. This is good for health, and the extra time is eventually freed up.
For example, I have diabetes, and hypertension, and my heart is sick, but I, without straining, collect excellent harvests, without stuffing the planting with chemistry. And I still have time to listen to the birds! And I’m already over 70 ...
© Author: Valentina Alexandrovna
Different siderates - video comparison
Below other entries on the topic "Dacha and garden - with their own hands"
- Ambulance trees in spring - advice from professionals
- Kislitsa Sakhalin buckwheat and rabid cucumber - how to withdraw
- Lazy planting of seedlings without fertilizers and holes - my reviews
- Caring for a garden in winter - mandatory agricultural practices
- Plum crown: formation and care - schemes
- Care of the garden: sludge and fertilizing
- Planting pits for seedlings - what depth to dig and what to put in them
- The neighborhood of trees and shrubs in the garden - which ones can be planted nearby?
- How to prepare a garden and trees in it for winter
- If autumn is dry - water charging + garden feeding
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Is it possible to protect the garden from diseases without chemicals?
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- Most often, plants on the site begin to infect various diseases with the advent of August. To reduce the risk of development and infection with harmful bacteria and viruses, in the spring, at the beginning of the growing season, treatment against diseases should be carried out in the garden. As my practice has shown, with the help of beneficial microorganisms, these problems can be dealt with without the use of chemistry. For the past twelve years, I have been replacing pesticides with prophylactic treatments.
When planting in the hole, I add a Gliocladin tablet. I water adult perennials growing on the site with a solution of "Trichocin" (according to the instructions). After a couple of weeks, I spray all the plants on the leaf with a “cocktail” from the Alirin and Gamair biological products (2 tablets per 1 liter of water).
In the absence of signs of the disease, such treatments are repeated 3 times per season at a concentration of 1 tablet of each agent per 1 liter of water. Otherwise, the dosage can be increased by 6-7 times. It won't hurt.
By the way, in addition to ornamental plants and shrubs, I also process a greenhouse with vegetables, and fruit crops on the site.
Tatiana ZHASHKOVA
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The shrew unbelted
My tulips will most likely not bloom this spring - we have a shrew, I can’t save it, it eats everything - tulips, daffodils, potatoes, carrots ... The neighbors have the same story. We do not know how to deal with it, the whole garden is dug up by its moves, everything disappears. It’s a pity for the apple trees, my grandfather planted them - it digs holes right in their roots! Lord, what to do?
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How to deal with shrew
In the garden wound up shrews. How to deal with them? Elena Molotov, Shklov
- First of all, it should be understood that it is impossible to destroy all pests on the site, and it is not necessary. After all, rodents, when they are few, are eaten by a bear, wireworms, May beetles and earthworms. Breaking through the passages in the soil, shrews loosen it, improving the water-air regime. But if the number of these pests increases dramatically, they begin to gnaw on the roots of plants and can destroy all planting.
In this case, they should be fought. Some gardeners poured water from the hose into the passages, others saturate the cloth with naphthalene and kerosene, form odorous plugs from it and plug the passages with them. But more effective are poison baits (rat death, bromine paste, rodent block).
True, you can poison them with pets. Therefore, be careful: put the poison near the entrance to the hole, and on top cover with a bucket or pan. On the edge of the garden grow beans, beans, wormwood, mint, sage, medicinal and nutmeg, elshsoltsiyu.
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To protect the garden from small and large pests, ranging from mammals to insects, you can use ordinary soap.
To do this, you need: a few pieces of soap, cloth or ready-made cloth bags, a knife, a stapler and wooden pegs.
Council
It is better to choose an aromatic solid soap - it is from him that the effect is maximized. And having a neutral smell will not have the desired effect.
Cut the soap into large pieces and place them in cloth bags. Fasten the edges with a stapler, but do not close the holes tightly - the smell should spread freely.
Having finished the preparation, drive in wooden pegs along the perimeter of the garden and hang bags on them. Remains of soap can be finely crumbled and sprinkled with plants and soil to provide additional protection against pests.
The smell that comes from soap irritates the pests. And in the rain, it only increases! Of course, soap must be periodically changed so that the effect does not weaken.
The main advantage of this method of pest control is its exceptional naturalness. Soap does not leave harmful substances on fruits and vegetables, it is absolutely safe for the health of animals and insects, which you will repel.
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To protect against midges, I make a vanilla solution: 1 / 2 vanillin sachet (5 g) per 1,5-liter plastic water bottle.
I mix everything, put on the bottle an atomizer and spray the curtain on the door, put the solution on the skin. Note that it is necessary to use vanillin, and not vanilla sugar. Otherwise, instead of frightening the midges, you, on the contrary, will attract them with a sweet solution.
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To get a decent crop of carrots, celery, parsnip and parsley gardeners are often prevented from carrot leaf-bush - a small greenish insect. Both adult leaf flies and their many larvae, which suck the juices from the leaves, damage the plants, as a result of which they are deformed. The first signs of pest activity are curly leaves, which remain green, but are suppressed and halt in development, which sometimes entails a complete loss of the root crop.
In the fight against the carrot block, the folk remedies proved to be excellent. They allow you to quickly get rid of planting from the pest and get an environmentally friendly crop of vegetables.
Tobacco dust is poured with warm water - 1 l is needed per 10 kg, it is infused for 24 hours, filtered, 30-40 g of soap are added for better adhesion of the infusion to plants and sprayed on affected cultures.
• 0,5 kg of dry peel of any citrus pour 10 l of hot water, insist 2 days, filter, add soap and process the planting.
• 2 kg of chopped young pine shoots are poured into Yulteploi water, insist 2 days, filter, add soap and process damaged crops.
• Early in the morning, plantations with sifted wood ash are planted on the dew.
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Coffee grounds are a good help for a gardener. True, in winter, during its collection, you will have to tinker with it: rinse with water to remove excess acidity, and dry it so that mold does not appear. But as a result, you will immediately receive both a micronutrient fertilizer, and a friable additive in seedlings, and an agent against ants and slugs, and mulch for rhododendrons and roses, and an additive in compost.
The coffee grounds in the soil decompose slowly and as a "quick reaction" fertilizer does not work. Therefore, if you add it to the seedlings (no more than 1 / 10 volume), then this will make it more friable, but it will not affect nutrition. In addition, the substrate must necessarily add ash to reduce acidity. But the coffee grounds introduced into the soil under the trees and shrubs will for a long time gradually give out microelements, which will benefit the plants.
Well respond to the introduction of coffee rose, rhododendron, heather. Husch scatter? on the surface of the soil or mixed with peat and straw mulch. You can add coffee grounds and pots with room roses, but little by little and no more than 1 times in six months. It is best to do this when transplanting, mixing 1 art. l. coffee grounds with 1 l of soil.
A fresh, unwashed thick with a distinct smell of coffee frightens off ants and snails, so it is useful to scatter around any young shoots between the rows.
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I often meet recommendations for the use of serum (spraying seedlings, etc.), but the trouble is - the serum disappeared in dairy stores! How to get out of the situation?
I buy 1% kefir in packages and put it in the freezer.
When it freezes, I take it out of the bag, cutting the package, and put it in gauze, folded in two layers. I hang it. Kefir melts, whey drips into the container, and the curd remains in the gauze.
In passing I want to share a recipe for Adzhika from zucchini.
I take 2 kg of peeled zucchini, 2 pods of hot pepper (chopped through a meat grinder), 2 tbsp. l salt, 1 cup sugar, 1 can of tomato paste (450 g). I cook for 20-25 minutes, then add 3-4 chopped heads of garlic, 100 ml of table (9%) vinegar and cook another 5 minutes. Everything - delicious adjika is ready!
Nina
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I will share simple recipes for protecting garden plantings, or some summer residents are too wise in this regard.
Here, for example, how I save cabbage from any butterflies:
I'm just doing all that seeds of marigold are scattered around the bushes. She easily rises and does not interfere with her neighbor, and fluttering freeloaders are very afraid of her. Ask: what about slugs? And they have me there. I take oak cones, crush them in a coffee grinder and then add some of the cheapest coffee to the mixture obtained. Then I lightly roast in the oven and spray my hands around the area where the cabbage is planted.
Slugney after this, not one to find with all the desire! By the way, in the same way I am saving from encroachment and rutabaga.