Cultivation of potatoes in double rows between siderates

A wide range of my native

It is possible to search all life for the most productive way of cultivation of a favorite culture and to remain with a nose. And you can thickly mix other people's tried methods, add to this "brew" a couple of your own ideas and get full bins!

Three crops ...

Experiencing a variety of methods of growing potatoes, I borrowed a lot, but a lot and processed to fit my needs. And most importantly, I added two agricultural methods personally invented by me: the use of the same width of beds (I place the tubers in double rows in a checkerboard pattern) and row spacing (70 cm each) and a three-time landing in the same siderates aisles with subsequent laying of organics.

I may be objected that the expense of the land was too wasteful for me. No, everything was carefully calculated here.

If the beds and passages are made smaller, crop rotation will be difficult, there will not be enough soil for high earthing up of plantings. And in order not to get confused in the marking, I drive small rails along the edges of the beds, the lower part of which is pre-dipped in hot bitumen so that they do not rot in the ground - these marks have been serving me faithfully for many years.

Now about the siderates. I chose white mustard and phacelia. What is good about first? And in that it increases the resistance of the potato to scab and late blight, reduces the number of wireworms, contributes to the accumulation of phosphorus, potassium and sulfur in the soil, while enriching it with organic.

And all this together gives a simply amazing increase in soil fertility. Therefore, after planting potatoes, guided by pegs and knolls, I spread white mustard seeds randomly between rows and immediately plant them with a rake in the soil to a depth of 1,5-2 cm (since they are very attractive to birds) - this is the first term for planting green manure.

Although experts recommend adhering to the norm of sowing 250 g per hundred square meters, in this case I think that there is enough 150. At least, by the time of the first hilling of potatoes, the mustard is already gaining a good green mass.

Then I cut the roots with a knife, chop the stems, distribute everything around the holes and during the hilling I lift the ridges in the bed to a height of up to 10 cm, falling asleep with the sprouts with the head. As a result, the young and tender tops of mustard in the moist soil quickly decompose. By the way, about moisture. With a prolonged absence of rain before the first hilling, water the area by irrigation.

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See also:  Planting potatoes in double rows and removing flowers (Samara region)

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Early hilling of potatoes promotes the lengthening of the underground part of the white shoots and the formation of a larger number of stolons on which tubers are formed. Scientific experiments have shown that stalks are not formed on green and already coarse stems.

And again: before the first hummocking around the hillocks, I scatter on a handful of ashes. I do not contribute it when planting, because I consider it inadmissible to combine it with mineral fertilizers containing nitrogen, as well as with manure.

... and five conclusions

After the first hilling in the row-spacing, I sow tansy tansy, which promotes the growth and high-quality ripening of tubers - this is a second stage sowing seed. I will add that the thicker the sowing of fatselia in moist soil, the more it will give green mass, the more magnificent the soil will become after refueling. And I close this siderat just before the second hilling, which I spend before the flowering of potatoes. Moreover, I use part of the stems cut by the chopper as a mulch for potatoes. In the course of hilling, I slightly raise the ridges and the beds themselves to the maximum possible height. And right after that, I plant mustard in the aisles (already at the recommended sowing rate) - this is the third-time siderat.

Before the potato tops are closed, I cut the green mass of mustard with a plane cutter and leave it in deep aisles for one or two days, and then lay on top of it everything that is found from organic matter - freshly cut withered grass, humus, compost, fallen leaves, sawdust. This mixture should fill the paths as high as possible to prevent the land from sliding off the sides of the beds, and at the same time, it will decay and increase the fertility of the soil.

In dry weather, planting is watered moderately (abundantly only during the flowering period), and siderata on the paths is also moderate, but more often than potatoes. To prevent lodging of bushes of such a tall variety as Aurora (during the end of its flowering), I cut the tops of stems with a pruner. Harvesting in early September, in dry (or even better - in sunny) weather. And I dig with a shovel, not a pitchfork. Why?

If the blade is injured by the tuber, the cut can be easily dried, and this will have almost no effect on its further storage. And if the potato is punctured with a sharp narrow "tooth", then in the deep wound there will be rot.

Right after excavating from the most high-yielding bushes, I select seeds for quality (equal to the size of a chicken egg) seed. At the same time, I dry the entire crop directly in the garden, spread on the film, for at least 3 h, and then place it in mesh bags and transfer it to the garage for drying. After about two or three weeks I sort out the tubers and put them in the cellar, where I keep them in plastic boxes, pre-installed on bricks. An important point after the potatoes are dug out, I sow a facial or mustard throughout the liberated area.

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See also:  Ciderates in the aisles of the potato and double rows

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Summarizing, I note the advantages of planting and growing potatoes in double rows:

• To hone the twin rows in the bed, only two passages with a chopper are needed instead of four, which saves considerable energy (me 71 year) and time.
• High and wide beds allow not only faster and stronger warming up the soil, but it is better to keep moisture. It's clear that potatoes are also more comfortable to grow on a warm and tasty "base", and even under the protection of the siderates.
• Organic lining in deep rows and repeated sowder crops improve the soil, which is so appreciated by potatoes.
• The breakdown of the plot according to the scheme of 70 × 70 cm makes it possible to alternate annually the places of planting of the second bread and green manure, thereby performing a crop rotation.
• These methods allow me to not cut my site and do not dig, and the yield of potatoes will only increase.

I forgot to mention another nuance, which, in my opinion, despite its smallness, is of great importance. The fact is that when planting I place the tubers in the holes not straight, but put them on the barrel so that the shoots are looking at the center of the bed. As soon as I started doing this, the shoots began to appear more amicable.

© Author: Vladimir Petrovich Seversk, Tomsk Region

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