Growing pears in the Moscow region - planting varieties and care
HOW TO GROW PEARS IN MOSCOW REGION - LANDING AND CARE, FEEDBACK ABOUT VARIETY
Pear is the most common (after the apple tree) seed crop in Russian gardens. And recently, many homeowners have begun to give her a clear preference.
THE DIVINE TASTE OF PEARL
As a cultivated plant the pear has been known since time immemorial. Another Homer in his Odyssey describes the garden, the main decoration of which was golden fragrant pears with a "divine" honey flavor. In Russia, too, they have known for a very long time. The decree of Tsar Ivan the Terrible, published under the name Domostroy, details how to grow a pear, and even describes several of its varieties.
To date, the world knows more 5000 varieties of pears early, middle and late maturation. By origin, they can be divided into two main types: Far Eastern (Chinese) and European. The first comes from wild pear varieties of the Far Eastern (Ussuri). As a rule, their fruits are hard because of the large number of fossilized cells. Although the taste and flavor, they are very different from each other. There are among them specimens with very sweet and fragrant pears.
European varieties were obtained as a result of selection of pear ordinary. They are more thermophilic, and the fruits become soft, thin-skinned, with a delicious oily pulp during maturation.
All parts of the pear plant are widely used in folk medicine. The bark and leaves contain glycoside arbutin, which treats inflammatory processes in the kidneys, urinary tracts, and also in the gastrointestinal tract. Baths from decoction of the bark help in the treatment of joint diseases. Well, the fruits themselves are very rich in vitamins and nutrients. This, in combination with a fairly low calorie, makes the pear one of the most desired and useful fruits.
In fruits it is less than sugar, than in apples, nevertheless they are sweeter, since there are less acids in them too. Fructoses in pears contain much more than glucose, so it positively affects the pancreas. It is thanks to this quality that the fruits of the pear are allowed to be introduced into the diet for people suffering from diabetes and obesity.
The pear prefers fertile, well permeable, neutral (pH not less than 6,5) soils. Ideally, it would have been sueded or loamy, enriched with organic. Rusty and fruit it will only be in an open sunny place. Even slight shading for it can be fatal. The southern sloping slope would have best suited the pear. On flat areas, it needs drainage, as excessive moisture can lead to the death of the plant.
For normal growth and development of the pear, higher doses of nitrogen are required, but potassium needs less than, for example, apple. And the winter hardiness of the pear is lower, but with the right selection of varieties and proper care, it will regularly give good harvests.
All sorts of pears are self-sterile, so pollinators are required for them.
The culture does not tolerate the trimming of the near-trunk circles (especially the pear grafted on quince) because of the shallow location of the root system. It is very good to grow nitrogen-fixing plants next to pears, for example lupine.
When forming the crown, remember that the awakening of the kidneys on annual growths in the pear is weaker than in the apple tree, so it needs to be cut more strongly.
See also: Growing pears in the suburbs - suitable varieties
PEAR ON MY MOSCOW SITE
Pears I love more than apples, so I have an interest in this culture. I experienced on my site about 20 varieties. Some were successful, some not. I'll tell you about the most interesting. By the way, I would like to say to beginning gardeners: do not get carried away by growing a large number of pears on the site! It is enough to have one tree of early, middle and late maturation. They can be inculcated at once for several varieties for pereopyleniya.
Planting and care. There are enough suns for pears and other fruit crops on site, but the soils are clayey, acidic, which are not suitable for most cultivated plants. Therefore, the first thing I do is neutralize the soil in the area where I plan to land. I do it well in advance. If you plan to plant in spring, then I prepare the soil from autumn. As a deoxidizer I use dolomite flour (at the rate of 2 kg per 6 sq. M). For 2 weeks before planting, digging pits with a diameter of 80 cm, depth 60 cm. The distance between seedlings on high growth stocks should be at least 3 m, on malleons -2 m, the distance between rows, and in that, and in another case -4,5-5 m .
I take out the soil from the pits completely, laying the upper fertile layer in one direction, and use the lower one to level the relief on the site. Then I prepare the landing mixture. I make it from the upper fertile layer, river sand and rotted manure or compost, taken in equal quantities. Mix the soil mixture well and fill it with 2/3 of the pit volume. I add 1/4 bucket of wood ash to each, as well as 3 matchboxes of double superphosphate and 2 - potassium sulfate. Before this, I lay a drainage of sand with gravel 10 cm thick at the bottom of each pit. In the middle of the pit I drive a stake 13 m high.
We need to plant together. One person puts a seedling on the northern side of the stake, first spreading the roots along the surface of the soil in the pit. The second one falls asleep, tamping it well so that there is no void between the roots. Then the seedling is watered from a watering can with a nozzle-rain (pour out at least 3 watering cans under one plant so that the water soaks through the entire root layer). After planting and watering, the root neck should be at the level of the soil surface.
The trunks are mulched with peat chips, sawdust or straw to slow the growth of weeds and reduce the evaporation of moisture from the soil.
Often, scientists recommend that when planting seedlings of fruit crops, shorten the overground part and the stem root to balance the aboveground and underground parts. However, the pear is very poorly tolerated by such interference. It is better to not cut off young plants at all until rooting. Saplings with a closed root system, formed in the nursery, do not touch at all.
In the spring, at the end of April, I bring in rotted manure or compost (in a bucket under one plant) and seal it into the stem circles using the Tornado cultivator. In mid-May, I water all the pear seedlings with urea solution (1 tbsp.spoon per 10 liters of water). In the summer (late June), I bring in a handful of superphosphate for each plant. In the fall, I feed with potassium sulfate (2 matchboxes for one plant) or with kalimagnesia - for better preparation for the winter.
In spring a year after planting I shorten the central conductor, leaving 50 cm from the growth. The lateral shoots bend down to the horizontal position and with the help of a rope and some load I fix in this position. After bending, the lateral shoots are shortened so that the cut is located above the kidney, directed downwards. This is necessary for nutrients to enter the branches and there the fruit buds of the next year were laid.
The operation is repeated every year for 5-6 years. During this time the tree will form a fruit-bearing crown with a height of the order of 2,5 m. The center conductor is then cut off, transferring it to a strong lateral branch.
See also: Pear (photo) description of planting and care: from the seedlings to the tree
GRADE FOR PEARLS FOR MOSCOW REGION.
I really like the varieties created at the All-Russian Research Institute for Fruit Crop Breeding (Oryol) under the direction of Academician of the Russian Academy of Sciences, Doctor of Agricultural Sciences E.N. Sedova. These varieties with increased winter hardiness are practically not affected by fungal diseases and have high palatability. In my opinion, the most interesting of them are these: summer - Oryol summer, Oryol beauty, Memorable; autumn - Yeseninsky, Muratovskaya; winter - Lira.
One of my favorites is the summer Krasuly variety, created by the famous Chelyabinsk breeder, candidate of agricultural sciences E.A. Falkenberg.
One of the most winter-hardy is the Sibiryachka variety, created in Altai by N.N. Tikhonov, student I.V. Michurina. This variety is an excellent pollinator for almost all pear varieties.
Now on my site grow 6 pear trees. These are two summer varieties - Krasulya and Severyanka, two autumn varieties - Vekovaya and Larinskaya, and two winter varieties - Krasnobokaya and Dekabrinka. All these varieties are universal, frost-resistant and very productive.
KRASULYA.
The tree can grow to 4-5. But I formed it in time to 2,5 m. The peculiarity of the variety is that on the tree trunk there are small spines, which complicate the care and harvesting.
The fruits are small, oval, with a beautiful red-orange color. They are unusually tasty, juicy, sweet and fragrant.
The pear skin is thin, and the flesh is tender, oily. The fruits ripen in mid-August and can be stored on the tree for two weeks. Since this is a summer variety, it is not intended for long-term storage. Krasulia easily tolerates cold winters, is resistant to disease and is less affected by pests. The best pollinator is the variety Severyanka.
SEVERYANKA.
The ideal pollinator. The tree can grow up to 4 m, but I have it also formed up to a height of 2,5 m.
The fruits are not very large, but unusually tasty, sweet and juicy. Their coloration is yellow with a light greenery and a faint pink cover-blush. The skin is dense enough, but not rough. Ripens a week earlier Krasuli. Although the grade is also summer, but it is not worse than the autumn ones. In the refrigerator or in the cellar, the fruit can last up to 2 months. The variety is frost-resistant, disease-resistant, high-yielding and fast-growing. The first crop can be harvested as early as the 3 year after planting.
THE ETERNAL.
The tree can grow up to 6 m. It is characterized by a sprawling crown, which in diameter can make 5 m. Therefore, the formation needs to be given special attention. The fruits are uneven in size (from 150 to 400 g), fragrant, juicy, with sweet and sour dessert taste. They are greenish-yellow with a red blush, they have a classic pear-shaped form. Ripen in the first decade of September. The variety is very mild, yielding, winter-hardy, resistant to diseases. LARINSKAYA. A fast-growing large tree, so you need to form it in time and regularly shorten the branches.
The fruits are large enough, tasty, juicy, sweet and sour. Gather pears of this variety no later than 15 September, when they still have a greenish-yellow color. Through 2-3 weeks, the color changes to light yellow, the fruit juiciness remains unchanged, the taste improves significantly, it becomes sweeter. The variety is frost-resistant, resistant to diseases.
RED.
The tree grows no higher than 4 m, but has a spreading crown, which in diameter can be 4 m.
Fruits are medium in size, very beautiful, of regular shape, they become amber in maturation. Pulp is sweet, very fragrant. This is one of the best-yielding and frost-resistant varieties. Withstands winter temperatures to minus 45 °.
DECEMBLE.
The tree is low, with a rounded crown.
Fruits are not large, dark yellow with a weak blush. The pulp is juicy, has a good sour-sweet taste with a delicate aroma. The variety is frost-resistant, withstands winter temperatures to minus 48 °. It has high resistance to scab and gall mite. It is characterized by a very late flowering period and a late entry into fruiting (at 7 year).
© Author: O. IVANOVA, gardener-experimenter The Moscow region
Below other entries on the topic "Dacha and garden - with their own hands"
- Increased pear yield
- To the pear gave fruit earlier
- Pear: 7 secrets on how to speed up fruiting - advice from agricultural sciences
- Planting and caring for the pear for early harvest
- Pear variety August dew - my reviews (Voronezh region)
- Why do pears blush?
- Pear (photo) description of planting and care: from the seedlings to the tree
- Varieties of pears, growing and caring for pear tree - American experience
- If ... thorns have grown on a pear - what to do?
- Pear and shale formation (stamping)
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I will focus on the important points when planting pears.
Buy 1-2-year-old saplings, but not older, otherwise the pears then often lag behind, get sick, because when digging most of the core root system is simply chopped off.
The size of the landing pit is 50 × 50 cm. The bottom is loosening well. I pour biohumus (5-10 kg), and on top - loose fertile soil. If the soil is heavy, add sand or vermiculite. I do not use mineral fertilizers, they can be completely replaced with ash (500 g per pit).
After planting, I water the seedling with sun-warmed water (not ice!). After watering, the earth will settle, and the root neck (the place of transition of the roots to the trunk) may sink, and this is unacceptable! It should be at ground level. Therefore, I plant the tree a little higher, and after watering, if necessary, I add a little earth.
After planting, I cut off the top of the sapling by about 5-10, see
TIP: After planting, many gardeners plentifully and often water the trees - they say, so they will take root well. But as a result, a bog is formed in the landing pit, and the roots lack air. Do not fill! After watering, gurgle the tree circle with a layer of organic matter.
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Approximately 7 years ago they planted a pear, but because of the strong wind the central trunk broke off. The tree began to grow in three trunks. At the same time, the right one does not yield a crop, it has thorns, and there are pears on the other two trunks. We want to cut down the "freeloader". But we worry: what if the tree dries up?
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- The right trunk of the tree was formed from a kidney that was below the graft. It was necessary to break it in the first year of growth. But even today, after 7 years, this trunk is not only possible, but also necessary to cut - in the spring before the start of sap flow.
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Pear without fruit
Several times it happened that pears left me without a crop. Through trial and error, I understood how to get regular fruit bearing from trees.
If there are no other pears nearby, it is worth planting a couple of varieties in the crown to improve pollination. In general, you need to know the timing of the entry of the tree into fruiting. If a significant part of the varieties bears fruit already after 4-6 years after planting, then some only after 8-10 years.
An important condition for fruiting the pear is adequate lighting. If the tree is shaded with other crowns, they need to be pruned. If the crown of the pear is thickened, it must be thinned out.
In spring or early summer, pear should be abundantly fed with rotted manure or compost.
Problems with fruiting may occur due to an overabundance of moisture. In this case, it is necessary to dig a drainage groove.
So that the pear doesn’t annoy the pests that also affect fruiting, in the spring you should put a trapping belt on the barrel and hang traps on the branches in the summer (5-6 containers with old kvass dressing).
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In the summer, micro-punctures first appeared on the pear fruits, and then the fruits gradually rotted. As a result, lost more than half the crop. Sinned on wasps. But when the husband cut several fruits, they saw a black passage inside. Who could it be? How to protect the crop next year?
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“Microprocols is the“ work ”of the pear moth. And as soon as a microcrack appears on the fetus, the fungi of moniliosis immediately goes inside. There is a center of decay, which quickly spreads to the entire fetus. G Rusha dries and mummified. By the way, the causative agent of the disease winters in such fruits.
Control measures
Remove mummified fruit from and under the trees. In the season, collect the drops, in the fall, scoop up and burn the fallen leaves.
Immediately remove damaged and dry branches. Do not neglect the annual pruning (in early spring, before bud break).
To fight the fungal disease in spring, treat the trees with a green copper cone using a contact copper-containing drug - 5% solution of Bordeaux mixture or copper sulfate (500 g per 10 l), Azofos (300 g per 10 l). In the phase of budding - with the fungicide Poliram or Ditan NeoTech 75 (60 g for 10 l). After flowering - with the preparation Scor (1 ml per 10 l) or Tercel (60-80 g per 10 l).
To control the plant moth after flowering (before the “fruit of the hazelnut” phase), treat the trees with the systemic insecticide Bi-58 H, Kinphos (according to the instructions).
From late May to mid-June, hang traps with fermented jam on the branches.
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Five Secrets of Pear Harvest
I feed trees with nitrogen fertilizers before flowering. I put in the grooves 15-20 depth cm, which I do in 40-50 cm from the trunk. Superphosphate, potassium and rotted manure are embedded in the soil for digging in the fall every 3-4 of the year.
For pears foliar top dressing is vital: during flowering I spray crowns with a solution of superphosphate (300 g for 10 l of water). After the beginning of flowering - with a solution of urea (200 g per 10 l of water). Be sure to treat with a solution of urea (700 g per 10 l of water) also in the fall after harvesting and yellowing of most of the leaves. This procedure helps to clear the trees from wintering pests.
In the spring and autumn I dig up the soil around the trees to a depth of 15-20. Pristvolnye circles are mulched with peat, sawdust, or dry grass (as the land is always loose, and weeds do not break through).
Every year in early spring before the beginning of the growing season I spend the sanitary pruning of the crown. And once in 3-4 of the year, it is rejuvenating: I remove three-year branches and shorten two-year shoots by a third.
I water the pears before flowering (at the end of May), as well as at the beginning of autumn. On the 3-4-year-old tree leaves near the 6 buckets of water, on the 5-10-year-old - 3 buckets of water on the 1 square meters of tree trunk. After watering the land loose, mulch.
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Pears of the autumn period of ripening are damaged by some insects, after which the fruits rot. What are these pests?
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Your fruit was chosen pearpods - butterflies from the family of leafworms. These pests only damage pears.
Caterpillars winter in black cocoons in the upper layer of soil and under fallen leaves near the trees. In spring they pupate. Dark gray butterflies appear in June. Females lay eggs one by one on the fruit of the pear. Formed caterpillars are inserted into the fetus, in which they lay a course for the seeds. The caterpillars feed on 20-25 days for them. Then they descend into the soil for wintering, where they remain until the spring of the next year.
Control measures
In the fall, remove all fallen leaves with subtrees and burn them.
In October and April, dig the soil in pristvolnyh circles.
Next year, when pear fruits are the size of hazel nuts, treat the trees with one of the insecticides (Aktara, Decis, Karate) according to the instructions. The second time is the biological product Lepidocide (when the fruit is the size of a walnut).
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My late Belarusian pear is 12 years old. Excellent fruiting. But this year the tree re-bloomed for the first time in September. Why did this happen?
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The re-flowering of fruit trees, including pears, is a rare, albeit rather common phenomenon. This is due to dry and hot weather in the summer. Why not all plants bloom, but only a few instances, remains a mystery.
However, one should not hope for a second harvest at the end of autumn. Therefore, in order not to deplete the trees, admire the flowers or even photograph the flowering plants, and then carefully trim all the floral brushes.
Valery MATVEEV