Red currant - planting and care, feeding and pest control (Moscow)
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CARE FOR THE RED CURRANT - EXCELLENT HAND-BOY TIPS FROM THE FORMER MILITARY
They say that generals always prepare not for new, but for past wars. Gardeners cannot afford such luxury as resting on the laurels of past victories - they are always at a military post.
The most important "smorodin" staging
In the garden, my wife and I work in four hands, while each of us has its own specialization with the right to make responsible decisions. I, for example, do prevention of diseases and pest control on the red currant, so when choosing varieties (you need to find resistant to all these misfortunes), my word is the main one.
In general, as a military man, I'm used to always act strictly according to a pre-designed plan. The word "in advance" is key here: in winter I study theory and carefully think over all my actions for the next season, because starting a "military campaign" without a clear strategy means signing a death sentence for your green pets.
Having determined the scope of the forthcoming works, I conduct an audit of the necessary protective and preventive measures, I buy the missing ones so that at the height of the season, do not rush headlong into the shops and not buy them in an emergency order, wasting precious time. In addition, in such an excited state, it is easy to make some mistake or not to notice the dirty trick of the sellers.
My wife and I have the ultimate goal - a rich harvest, and the components of success are a healthy land and healthy plants. The spouse already wrote about the proper care of them in No. 6 for this year (“The Red Maiden is a sight for sore eyes”). I will dwell in more detail on top dressing, with the help of which I try to ensure that the bushes do not lack nutrients and do not suffer from an overabundance of them.
HEALTH REMEDY FOR RED CURRANT
After we planted the first seedlings in our garden in a well filled with humus and ash ash, during the following three years we did not bring any additional fertilizer and fertilizer. During this period, special attention was paid to water procedures: after planting, the plants were planted the whole season as needed, and in the following two years spring and autumn water-discharge irrigation was performed (and watered during flowering and pouring of berries).
This we have achieved 100% of the planting of seedlings and minimizing crop losses, since flowers and fruits crumble when there is a lack of moisture. In addition, regular watering contributes to winter hardiness of plantings, since a well-moistened earth prevents frosting and freezing of roots.
But here the three-year spa period ended and the real work began. Starting from the fourth season and to this day, every three years, we make humus at the rate of 10 kg per 1 square. m, i.e. approximately one bucket for each adult bush. This operation is carried out either in the fall (which is preferable), or, if it did not work for some reason, in the early spring. And in the intervening years, we combine irrigation with topical infusion with herbal infusion, where we add bird droppings and also pour at the end of the season a pinch of complex mineral fertilizer for each plant. Thus, we alternate organic and mineral water without combining them.
Now I will come back a little. If, as I already noted, we planted our first-born in the pits, now, on the basis of experience and experiments, we came to the conclusion that the most preferred method of planting is in the mound hills. At the same time, we do not add either organic or mineral nitrogen-containing fertilizers, so as not to stimulate the growth of the aerial parts of plants to the detriment of the development of their root system. Only as micronutrients add ash at the rate of 100 g per 10-liter volume of soil. We begin to introduce organic matter and mineral water into the near-stem circle of seedlings only from the second year according to the scheme described above.
See also: Red currant on the site (photo) benefit, cultivation and care
FIGHT AGAINST RED CURRANT PUNKERS
“It is easier to warn than to cure” - this common truth is known to everyone, but for some reason not everyone follows it. I'm not one of those. Therefore, taking all the means of struggle with me, at the end of March I leave "on the front line." At first, I conduct a thorough inspection of plants in order to identify buds affected by a kidney mite: they differ from healthy ones in increased size. Having discovered those, I immediately collect and burn them. If you do not do it in time, kidney mites can completely destroy the plantings.
Just throw out the affected kidneys in no case it is impossible: in each of them can be up to a thousand mites, able to get out and safely return to the bushes.
Then one fine day, armed with a sprayer, I treat all plantings with 1% solution of copper sulfate or diluted strictly according to the instructions with some copper-containing preparation for the prevention of fungal diseases (the most common of which is powdery mildew, anthracnose and various rot) and fighting with insect pests.
After 10-14 days after the first spraying, I shed the bushes with infusion of garlic (50 g for 1 L of hot water, then cool the liquid and filter). This agent is especially effective for the prevention of powdery mildew and for the treatment of diseased plants.
In the summer, I spray the bushes of the currant with a decoction of horsetail (150 g fresh herbs without roots on 1 l of water) to protect against fungal and bacterial diseases. The same broth, by the way, can be useful and for the treatment of diseased specimens, but in this case, repeat the procedure will have several days in a row.
For preventive maintenance late in the autumn, after falling off leaves, I process our garden also with iron-containing preparations. These sprayings are carried out at a temperature not lower than 5 °. And all these funds constantly alternate, so that they do not become addicted to those with whom I fight. That is why, by the way, and all the fallen leaves I shovel and burn, so that under it no one and nothing harmful (for example, anthracnose fungus) does not have to spend the winter.
6 MAIN MANEURS
Another serious preventive measure of fungal diseases is pruning shrubs. But it can benefit only under one condition: if it is done correctly and regularly. Because this branch gets more light and they quickly get rid of excess moisture (which is especially important in rainy weather).
In addition, cutting out the old branches in time, in which pests like (say, currant glass) like to live, we also reduce the risk of hives damaging caterpillars. The same butterfly-glass-lays lay eggs in the buds on the buds of the currant, and the green glutens emerging from them bite into the shoots and make passages in them, causing the branches to wither. That is why all the dried up branches I also immediately delete and burn, regardless of the cause of their death.
CUT OF RED CURRANT - VIDEO
I pay great attention to the regular removal of weeds near the bushes, which also prevents the defeat of currant fungal diseases.
Particularly irritating in me is sedge, in which they very much like to live (and winter) rust spores that can cause great harm to the currant. Therefore, this herb is removed constantly and annually, especially since immediately behind our site is virgin land, which is the springboard, from where sedge with enviable persistence tries to penetrate to us. In the early years of the development of the dacha even had several times to dig through problem areas in order to select the roots of sedge from the earth, and at the same time the ubiquitous wheatgrass. Our ally in this fight was mulch. Thanks to joint efforts, the amount of weeds has significantly decreased, and now it is much easier to remove them.
Another persistent problem - the aphid squadrons - also has to be fought from year to year. I collect it by hand, and chase with the help of infusions and decoctions of wormwood, celandine, chamomile and tomato leaves.
See also: Red currant - variety (photo), planting and care
So, I use complex protection of plants in my garden. I will formulate the thesis of its stages:
- selection of currant varieties resistant to infections and diseases;
- observance of proper agricultural technology of culture;
- timely and correct pruning;
- regular inspection, removal and burning of damaged and withered buds, leaves and shoots;
- spraying and watering bushes with broths and infusions of herbs, and if necessary, with chemical preparations during periods of active development of pathogens and pests;
- preparation of plants for winter.
We, of course, try not to miss anything and do everything on time, but we do not live in a vacuum, and external factors influence the condition of the bushes. The enemy should not be underestimated, so I regularly inspect the plantations throughout the season to assess their condition. It is very important to notice signs of the disease in time, to put the correct diagnosis and immediately begin treatment.
In conclusion, I want to say that last season, despite a sharp cold snap and fallen snow during the flowering of red currants, we got an excellent harvest of healthy berries.
1. Variety “Krasnaya Kuzmina 2. Dana, cultivar is suitable for CC. 3 Osipovetskaya 4. “Jonker Van Tete, Dutch variety. 5. "Serpentine" 6. "Ural beauty", suitable for growing in Western Siberia. 7. "Vikeme" 8. "Leia" variety is not afraid of frost, almost not affected by diseases
© Author: Sergey Ogir, Moscow
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Work in the garden does not paint the hands. More precisely, he paints, but not at all in the color that he would like to see. For several years now I have been experiencing different ways to keep the skin and nails clean.
The well-known method of "lemon slice" - it is enough to rub your hands, nails and under the nails, after the main dirt is washed with soap and leave it directly on the skin. Yes, citric acid quickly brightened all the pores and cracks ... but the nails after such an execution began to exfoliate and break. This may be an individual reaction, but I had to look for an alternative.
Red Ribes! When it is, the problem of dirty hands for me does not exist. It is enough to rub the brush of berries in the hands - and they are clean again. It acts even better than lemon, as it does not dry the skin of the hands. Therefore, every year I leave part of the crop on the bush - exclusively for hygienic purposes.
When my savior is not yet ripe, I use the leaves of sorrel or rhubarb (not often, so as not to dry the skin): dirt and even tomato greens leave without problems. And sometimes I arrange garden paraffin therapy: I smear my hands with paraffin, put on thin plastic gloves, and on top - ordinary garden gloves. I work for two hours at my pleasure - and the skin of my hands is clean, soft and smooth. And they also advised me such a recipe: mix 100 ml of 3% hydrogen peroxide and 10-20 ml of ammonia, add any liquid soap. In this solution, lower your hands after work, and the darkened cracks will again become light. Well, then just grease your hands with fat cream.
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On the shoots of red currant appeared plaques and white patina, similar to mucus. There is no such bloom on the berries and leaves.
Is it dangerous for the plant?
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- The willow shchitok lodged on your currant. These pests suck juices from the shoots of currants, gooseberries, which for several years weaken and may even die. A similar situation develops when the bushes are populated with acacia false shield. These pests have a kind of shelter - shield, which consists of larval skins and wax. Larvae hatch from the eggs hibernating under the shields during the currant flowering period (they are called vagrants). They crawl along the branches into which they insert their proboscis to feed on the sap of the plants. Control measures
Cut out the shoots now populated with shields, and burn them immediately. For the future: for prevention, spud the bushes in October with soil (and in the spring after the snow melted, remove these mounds of land).
In the spring before flowering, treat the plants with a Lepidocide biopreparation or an insecticide (Kin-mix, Colorado, Mo-Spilan, Tanrek, Fu-fanon). It is important not just to spray, but to immerse the branches directly in the bucket with the composition.
It is safer to remove the already attached adult female scales by hand using a toothbrush, cotton pad or sponge soaked in soapy water.