Pruning fruit trees - techniques and schemes
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RECEIVING CIRCUITS IN SCHEMES AND PATTERNS
Many beginning gardeners do not dare to pick up secateurs, fearing to damage the tree or mistakenly believing that nature itself will solve the necessary tasks. Some start pruning, but do so with caution, believing that each cut branch leads to a loss of harvest. But this is exactly what the thickened crown is doing.
WHAT SHOULD BE THE FORM OF THE CROWN
Do not be afraid to use pruning, but without training you do not need to start it. In the winter you can study literature, consult with experienced gardeners or even pass a master class with them.
The main thing is to introduce the pruning process and what it is used for. First, the gardener must carefully examine the tree and decide (if it is a young tree) what the shape of the crown should be. Although the old tree can be given the desired shape of the crown, but this will have to work hard for more than one year.
Cut sick, withered and severely broken branches. They remove basal buds and tops. Branches going inside the crown, interfere with lighting and create the danger of future contact with other branches.
See also: Pruning fruit trees - why when and how?
Therefore, cut out all the crossing and rubbing branches. It is not necessary to cut them completely, but you can shorten one of the branches by the method of transferring to the kidney - cutting it above the kidney, directed outward.
Ring called inflow у foundations branches. It contains many cells capable of rapid division. Thanks to them, even a large area cuts quickly.
It is important that the escaping from it does not thicken the crown.
Cut the RING and the branches with the wrong (unavailable) angle of retreat. These are branches that grow almost vertically, that is, with an acute angle of divergence or directed downward toward the ground.
In the first case, such a location of the branch, as a rule, leads to a fault in a strong wind, as well as congestion with fruits or adhered snow. The latter is especially dangerous due to the defeat of bare wood during heavy frosts. In the second case, the branch directed to the ground lags behind in growth and prevents the gardener from working in the garden.
CUTTING RECEPTIONS
Depending on the goal, the forming, regulating fruiting and rejuvenating pruning are distinguished.
Forming pruning is used to dilute the thickened crowns and form new branches from the tops, as well as after re-ingesting the trees. Most often this pruning is used on young trees when forming crowns for the uniform placement of skeletal and overgrown branches and creating good lighting conditions on the surface and inside the crown.
REJUVENATING CUTTING WILL TAKE OLD TREES TO RENEW GROWTH AND BALANCING IT WITH FRUIT. EXPERIMENTAL GARDENERS FREQUENTLY APPLY SIMULTANEOUSLY REGULATING AND REJUVENATING CUT.
In adults, fruit trees are pruned, regulating fruiting in order to maintain a good growth to ensure yield.
There are two types of trimming: shortening (trimming) and thinning (cutting).
See also: Types of tree trimming - thinning and shortening
With this type of trimming, a part of the annual shoot or branches or perennial branches is cut off by removing the upper part. With a strong shortening, the sleeping buds are awakened on the cropped branch, the growth of lateral branches is more intensive, the fruit branches become stronger. A cut is made either above the kidney, or over the lateral branch. This is the so-called trimming for translation. Escape or branch then begin to grow intensively in the direction chosen by the gardener.
Another shortening method often used by gardeners when cutting curbs or hedges is blind shortening. Slices in this case can be located in any planes, this is a topiary haircut, in which the cut can occur at the branching or internode of the branches.
DECORATION.
With this type of pruning, a one-year or perennial branch is cut out altogether. Decimation improves the lighting inside the crown. When the branch is cut out, the vascular bonds are redistributed, the flow of nutrients and moisture is distributed more evenly between the branches located above the cut site. But at the same time strong whip shoots grow at the site of the cut.
CUTTING TECHNOLOGY
Pruning is carried out before bud opening. Unnecessary branches cut to the ring, that is, the cut is made on the border of thickening branches. The left shi-peak prevents wound overgrowth, but if pruning is done in winter, then it is better not to cut it so that the frost does not damage the kidney. The remaining spinule is removed later, in the warm season.
Young branches are cut to the kidney when shortened. The garden knife is set 1-2 mm above the base of the bud and, at an angle of 30 °, a branch is cut off by a sharp movement of the knife. The top edge of the slice should be flush with the top of the kidney. Minor deviations are allowed, that is, slightly lower or slightly higher than the top of the kidney. If the deviations are significant, then the slice is performed incorrectly. A cut made below the base of the kidney leads to its drying out, and a high cut deviates the upper growing shoot from the direction of growth of the branch.
CUTTING OF FRUIT TREES
TOPPING.
During the growing season, along with pruning for the formation of the crown, one can use pinching (pinching) of shoots. With its help, it is possible to form a branch covered with generative bases, that is, to ensure its branching for the subsequent formation. It is better to pinch when 15-20 days remain until the end of shoot growth.
SCRAPPING.
Very often after pruning, many shoots from the sleeping buds begin to develop in the crown. These shoots thicken the crown and few of them will be useful in the future for the formation of the crown. Therefore, these shoots are broken, until their base is not lignified. That from this point of growth again there were no new sprouts, shoots break out with a heel.
KIDDING OF KIDNEYS.
This technique is used on young trees to prevent the growth of unnecessary shoots. The plucking of unnecessary kidneys helps to accelerate the growth of shoots, necessary for the formation of the crown.
Over time, for beginner gardeners, this work on pruning and forming the crown will become familiar and will be included in the list of priority activities in the garden.
CUTTING TREES FOR BEGINNERS - VIDEO
Very good article about pruning trees here
© Author: S. Dementiev, Moscow
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