Treating a pear bacterial burn - my tips and remedies
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"PEOPLE" MEANS FROM THE BACTERIAL BURN OF THE PEARL
Down with the shovel, long live wormwood!
Having read this article, once again you understand the value of letters of ordinary summer residents in comparison with the scientific articles of graduate agronomists. Scientists will offer a bunch of ways to solve a particular problem, and one another is wiser and more difficult. A smart summerman will look around, think and understand that everything can be solved much, much easier.
Hello everyone! I live in the Altai Republic, I own a hundred square meters of land in the ownership of 11. Under the garden and garden are given seven hundred. And I want to tell you about this.
When I laid the garden, I acquired three pear trees. Three years later, the disease appeared - bacterial burn, but only on two pears, on the third he was not. (Why? A little lower.) I was recommended processing with ash - it did not help. Pears blackened, had to cut the tops of shoots and pick leaves.
The trees were stunted and miserable. Then an article appeared about antibiotic treatments - acquired an ampoule of streptomycin, diluted in 5 liters of water. Last spring and autumn sprayed twice with an interval of two weeks. Pears are on the mend! This spring I repeated the procedure a couple of times, and this was the end of the treatment.
And now about what happened to the third pear. She did not get sick, although she stood from diseased trees only in 3 m. She developed well, had a good crown, clean leaves and was much taller than her brothers. The secret was simple: near her grew two bush wormwood.
When they appeared near the trunk, I wanted to remove them, but left them and did the right thing. The wormwood grew one and a half meters tall, silvery, beautiful. The trunk is thick, I cut a deep ax in a hatchet-the sector did not take it. So, the pollen and the smell of this wormwood played a role: the pear did not fall ill.
By the way, the same wormwood grows between the bushes of cherries and plums, and no bushes-cockroaches crawled along these bushes, even the ever-present ants never existed!
Where did the wormwood come from, I do not know. I think the seeds were blown by the wind. This spring I planted it near all my trees and bushes: I want to believe that it will benefit them. After all, nature knows how to treat diseases without antibiotics!
And the last. If you shift wormwood wormwood potatoes stored in the cellars, not a single tuber will spoil, and in the cellar there will never be mice. It is checked on the experience, and it has passed to me from parents.
See also: Bacterial pear burn (photo) - treatment
Contrary to agrotechnics
And one more question about the farming technique for growing vegetables. They write a lot about it, it's good and right. But I act contrary to all agrotechnical laws.
For several years I have been doing shovels with a shovel. Dug the ground, arranged a bed, leveled, slamming from the sides. Then I got tired of it. I got a tes, soaked it with an antiseptic so that it did not rot quickly, and protected all the beds. I bought humus, filled the beds, then dug together with the ground, and turned out to be permanent, brown (from the humus) beds.
Four five-meter ones, where I have been planting onions for six years, and four four-meter ones, where onions have also been planted for as many years. Two four-meter beds for carrots next to onions and one five-meter for beets. And I get an excellent crop from these beds. And I’m not changing places. And for all six years I have not observed any diseases. But the thing, I think, is that after harvesting from the beds I immediately sow green manure - white mustard. I sow thickly, with a green carpet.
Mustard is not only a good fertilizer, but it also perfectly loosens the soil, heals it.
In late autumn, I chop it with a shovel, and in spring I loosen ridges with a pitchfork - no digging is necessary, the earth is loose, sprinkle with ash and level with a rake. And everything, the ridges are ready for landing. No more fertilizers, and so for six years.
I do the same in greenhouses. In the fall I process them with tobacco, shag. I buy two packages of 200 g for each greenhouse, pour it into an iron basin, pour birch bark on top - first small birch wood chips, then larger ones. I set fire to birch bark and leave the greenhouse, closing the doors and windows. After a day I air and plant green manure. Also in late autumn, I chop them with a shovel, in the spring I loosen them, sprinkle them with ash and level them with a rake. All. The beds are waiting in the wings.
Here is my agrotechnics: siderates, ash and good land.
BACTERIAL PARN BURN - TREATMENT: VIDEO
© Author: Sergey V. LOPATIN Altai
Below other entries on the topic "Dacha and garden - with their own hands"
- Diseases of ornamental plants and their treatment - a detailed description in the table
- How to protect the garden from rodents
- List of strawberry varieties resistant to rot, the main disease of strawberries
- Biological products for flower seedlings - my tips and reviews
- Gray rot of strawberries - how to fight?
- Carrot rot during storage - photo, description and control measures
- Treatment of currants, gooseberries, yoshta with boiling water in winter against pests
- Potato Alternariosis (dry spotting) - control measures
- Preparation of a Bordeaux liquid from a fungus on plants
- Stem gall midge on raspberries - how to fight (folk remedies)
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Maybe my question will seem strange, but I would like to clarify for myself this moment: is a bacterial burn and bacteriosis the same disease? And how quickly and efficiently can “burning” fruit trees be saved?
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Help me figure out what happened to the pear. On the fruits of the dent (see photo). Was the tree sick?
Lyubov Alexandrova
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- Such tuberosity of the fetus may be the result of summer hail. Damage (gradobo-iny) on young fruits overgrown, the fruits themselves do not fall off, they become somewhat ugly.
A similar phenomenon can also be observed with a lack of certain nutrients, mainly calcium, which forms the structure of the fetus. In this case, produce soil around the trunk circle (1 –2 kg per 1 m2) - in early spring (when digging) or in September-October.
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Tell me how to save a pear? In the summer, rusty spots appeared on the leaves, and whitish growths on the back side.
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Pear leaves are struck with columnar rust, and this indicates that juniper is growing in your garden or on the adjacent plot. That he is the owner of this type of rust, and convex yellow-brown growths on the leaves of pear - this is the fungus sporulation.
Control measures
In early spring, before the beginning of the growing season and after flowering, spray the pear trees with a solution of a fungicide (for example, Skor, Bayleton) according to the instructions.
Be sure to process and juniper bushes (if they grow in the area behind the fence, ask your neighbor).
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Pear already 7let, very few fruits, can be counted on the fingers. The tree does not look sick. What could be the reason for the poor harvest?
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The entry of pear trees into fruiting depends on both the variety and the agrotechnology. Late begin to bear fruit (after 10 years of growth) popular old varieties: Duchess summer, Wei-nevka, Ilyinka, Marble, Klapp's favorite.
The correct care of trees will help to shorten the period of fruiting: crown formation, pest and disease control, timely fertilization. Next year, in early spring, be sure to start forming a crown.
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The fruits of the pear rot on the tree. Why is this happening?
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- The tree is affected by fruit rot (moniliosis). Sources of primary infection are affected fruits that remained hanging on the trees after harvesting, as well as dry shoots infected with moniliasis (they had to be removed during sanitary pruning).
2. Collect and burn the fallen leaves, affected flowers, as well as the carrion with signs of damage. In time, remove the affected branches and shoots.
3. It is especially important to protect the trees from the development of scab and other fungal infections, which provoke moniliosis. At the end of the fall leaf, treat the plants with a solution of urea (500-700 g per 10 L of water). In the next season, at the very beginning of the bud budding, spray an 3% solution of Bordeaux liquid (300 g per 10 L of water). The second treatment - immediately after flowering (1% solution of Bordeaux liquid or any fungicide (for example, Skorom) according to the instructions). The third - through 15-20 days after flowering (fungicide).
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On leaves of pears stains. Fruits are almost all twisted, with dents, rot. Have remained without a crop. What made the trees fall ill?
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- Pears are affected by several fungal diseases - rust, scab, fruit rot. After the fall of the fall, treat the trees with a solution of ammonium nitrate (1 kg per 10 L of water). In the new season in the spring, to prevent 3 fold, sprinkle with Bordeaux liquid (100 g on 10 L of water): 1) when leaflets are being expanded; 2) on buds; 3) after flowering.
Crown pears in time to thin, so that the plants are well ventilated. Do not leave the fallen fallen fruit and leaves on the ground. For the development of rust, two host plants are required: a juniper, on which one stage of the fungus parasitizes, and a pear on which its other stage develops. Perhaps you have junipers growing on the site. Treat and its fungicides (Ben-lat, Fundazol, Bayleton) according to the instructions.