Potato cultivation - planting and care (Kostroma region)
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GROWING TATER - PLATING AND CARE, MY ADVICE
Most of all I'm interested in articles about the cultivation of our "second bread". I have a lot of experience in this business, for 20 years I have developed agrotechnical techniques that allow to receive the highest yields. Since six hectares do not always manage to alternate crops, you have to plant the siderates.
After Kopki potatoes on the same day sow a plot of rye, it gives a good green mass, but most importantly, a large fibrous root system. In late September - early October, I dig a plot and in large lumps I dig in the rye grown to 30 cm. In autumn and spring, earthworms process all this, and the soil becomes richer in humus and, most importantly, light, loose, fluffy. Therefore, in the spring I no longer dig the garden, but only plant it so that the earth does not dry out and retains spring moisture.
POKING OF POTATOES
Now about landing. In the first days of April I take out the seed potatoes from the cellar, which was stored in large boxes, which was laid out in a single layer from autumn. At home, before putting on germination, I treat it with a special solution. In the tank I mix copper sulfate, manganese, urea, boric acid. During the digging it is then very pleasant to dig out perfectly clean, healthy, smooth tubers.
Within a month, potato, processed with mortar and covered with newspapers, laid out in a single layer in boxes, grows at home. In early May I transfer him to the garden. I fill the boxes with tubers to the top with humus, put them in a greenhouse and cover them with covering material such as spunbond or lutrasil, folded in two or four layers. In 10 days, white roots begin to move away from the shoots on the tubers. I start landing already with roots. I draw a bed with lines at a distance of 100 cm. Rows need to be arranged from north to south - so potato plants and the ground under them are better illuminated.
All cultures love the warmth and sun, and potatoes are no exception. As the earth turns out very soft and friable, landing I produce from a board. I spread the tubers with sprouts and roots at a distance of 40 cm (more can be, less impossible!) From each other.
On top of each potato I put a handful of humus mixed with onion peel, and then a handful of sifted ash (I burn in buckets for a summer in a garden stove 6-7 buckets). Rows I hill up with a hiller so as to cover the soil with black soil and get burrs of 20-30 cm in height. The result is a gorgeous wide spout. Since the aisles are wide, I twice more during the summer I plant the planting.
See also: Cultivation of potatoes
Why am I laying tubers on a flat surface and not digging them in holes? In May, the nights are cold, and during the day the sun warms the boletus, and the potato rises faster. In addition, in late May - early June, there are prolonged cold rains, as, for example, in 2017. So, excess moisture will go down, and the planting tubers in the boar will lock. A wide and high spud will retain moisture even in a very dry summer, as it was three or four years ago.
And one more plus of such agrotechnics: in wide and high bogs underground stolons develop well, on which potato tubers are formed. About the size of the planting material, I have long made a conclusion: the smaller the planting material, the larger the tuber in the crop and the less "pea".
Example? In 2016, he planted a seed potato the size of a quail egg: 6 varieties in 8 pieces in a row. In August, I dug three sorts of three buckets and two varieties of two and a half buckets. And seed potatoes (as usual, with a chicken egg) was almost there, had to take the smallest thing, which was planted. I also concluded for myself that if you plant large tubers, then this variety degenerates faster.
Neither the phytophthora, nor the beetle
The mine begins after 10 August. Why so early? The thing is that in recent years varieties have been growing, the vegetation period of which is 90 days, and 10 August, this time is just coming. In addition, in August, after 10 number, an invasion of phytophthora begins in our locality. Because of the August rains, it penetrates into the soil and infects the tubers, and by this time I have already matured the potatoes and can clean up.
At the digging site, I select the tubers for seeds from the best shrubs. Then mine them and lay them in boxes in one layer. In the garden house they turn green, in two weeks I turn the tubers, and a month later I transfer them to the garage cellar for winter storage. The rest of the harvest on the day of the dig is taken to the garage. We pour two or three buckets into the wooden boxes, close it with a dark cloth, so that the potatoes are not planted, and in a month we lower them into the cellar for winter storage.
I would like to add that in recent years there have been no Colorado beetles on my potato beds at all. The reason for this I consider the ash with which I plant potatoes (apparently, the beetle does not like it), or, perhaps, because I plant marigolds along the edge of the entire plot - their aroma repels the pest.
I did not have a wireman on the site. This pest likes raw places and those where there is a lot of weed grass, especially wheat grass. We fight with grass and catch beetles (clicked oblong black beetles), the larvae of which harm the potatoes.
By the way, there is a good way to catch them: we lay out boards in several places in the garden, raise them from time to time, quickly collect and destroy the beetles that have accumulated under them. And I advise you not to save the earth, not toss two potatoes into the hole, and also plant at a distance of at least 40 cm, and not the width of the shovel bayonet. Do not put too many tubers on the seeds, and if excess remains, give them to the neighbors.
See also: Planting potatoes and caring for them from A to Z
Some gardeners have garden plots in low places, and the planting has to start at the end of May or even in early June. As a result, when the phytophthora begins in August, the potatoes do not yet have time to grow, and the tops are already dying anyway. My way of planting allows you to get a good harvest from the sites on which the water in the furrows.
Doubt it? Then try to plant a control bed in my way, and the rest of the potatoes - as usual. And you will understand a lot.
I wish all the summer residents a good harvest!
By the way
And did you know that our ancestors used potatoes not only as food, but also for medical purposes? For example, raw potato slices were applied at fractures to accelerate healing. Applied it and with toothache and rheumatism. By the way, an interesting fact: potatoes contain more potassium than in bananas, and more vitamin C than in oranges.
DIGGING POTATOES - HARVEST ON NATURAL AGRICULTURE TECHNOLOGY (KOSTROMA) - VIDEO
© Author: Vladimir CHAINIKOV
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I plant a potato without a shovel in a two-row way. I mark the area on 40 and 80 cm (see. Fig.). I pass 40 cm with a cultivator, but I do not touch 80 cm - I walk along this section so as not to trample the plowed land, and my legs do not bind, it’s easy to walk. In the middle of a 40 cm stretch I stretch the cord, I tie bows to it every 35 cm.
I make small grooves on both sides of the cord. Opposite the bows, I throw hay, onion husks, ashes, then sprouted potatoes. On the other side of the cord is the same in staggered order. All gently fall asleep with a hoe. And that is all! When the seedlings appear, I plan the plowing twice.
Colorado beetle is small: apparently, hay rot, but he does not like it. When hilling these 80 cm are processed.