Perennial vines - photo and description, planting and care from A to Z
Contents ✓
- ✓ MULTI-YEAR LIANS
- ✓ CLASSIFICATION OF LIAN
- ✓ CAUGHT, OR DIVIDING
- ✓ GARDEN LIANS Choosing annual and perennial vines: VIDEO
- ✓ SUCTION LIANS
- ✓ CHAINING OR ORTHINAL LIANS
- ✓ CUTTING LIANS, OR LIANOIDS
- ✓ ACONITE CURRENT, OR FIGHTER
- ✓ ACTINIDIA (ACTINIDIA)
- ✓ BRYONIA WHITE (BRYONIA ALBA)
- ✓ VINOGRADE MALE PARTHENOCISSUS
- ✓ VINOGRAD AMURSKY (VITIS)
- ✓ VINEYARD
- ✓ GLYCINIA (Wisteria)
- ✓ LITTLE SPRING (HYDRANGEA PETIOLARIS)
- ✓ COTTLE TREE (CELASTRUS)
- ✓ DIOSKOREYA NIPPONSKAYA (DIOSCOREA NIPPONICA)
- ✓ FATALITY (LONICERA)
- ✓ CAMPSIS REDUCING (CAMPSIS RADICANS)
- ✓ CALYSTEGIA DEDICATED (CALYSTEGIA HEDERACEAE, S. PUBESCENS)
- ✓ KIRKAZON (ARISTOLOCHIA)
- ✓ CLEMATIS (CLEMATIS)
- ✓ KNIAZHIK (ATRAGENE)
- ✓ LEMON OF CHINESE (SCHISANDRA CHINENSIS)
- ✓ PASLEN SWEET-BITTER (SOLANUM DULCAMARA)
- ✓ IVY
- ✓ ROSA (ROSA)
- ✓ TLADIANT IS A DOUBLE, OR RED CUCUMBER (THLADIANTHA DUBIA)
- ✓ CHINA (LATHYRUS LATIFOLIUS)
- ✓ TRIPTERYGIUM
- ✓ HUMM (Ordinary HUMULUS LUPULUS)
- ✓ ONE-YEAR LIANS
- ✓ Suitable soil mixtures
- ✓ CLITORIA (CLITORIA TERNATEA)
- ✓ AKEBIA FOUR (AKEBIA QUINATA)
WHAT ARE LIANS - NAMES, LANDING AND CARE?
MULTI-YEAR LIANS
For many inexperienced flower growers, the word “liana” evokes associations with impassable “jungles” occupying a vast territory. In fact, climbing plants are able to plant trees and trees with flowers in those parts of the garden where others would not have enough space.
At the same time it does not matter at all whether you have a large plot or a tiny piece of land. With the help of lianas, it can be turned into a perfect paradise - make the entrance to the house exquisite, divide the garden into zones, decorate fences and buildings. These plants allow you to hide unsightly fences, sheds and compostarians. Any, even the most expensive gazebos or pergolas look lifeless and uncomfortable, if they are not fond of garden vines. But many still bloom beautifully!
Which climbing plants are best used in the middle lane? You will learn about this, having carefully studied the publication, and with its help you will even choose suitable ones for your garden. And most importantly - understand the nature of the plant you like. Indeed, in the case of vines it is very important to know how the shoots are fixed on the support.
It's nice, because beautiful, and even edible and useful plants grow on their own land. And many creepers combine in themselves all these qualities.
Experienced growers and experts will tell you how to plant vines properly, care for them and effectively propagate them.
Valentina BONDAR
Trees and shrubs that are not capable of keeping themselves upright belong to the tree type of vines. To do this, they use other plants, soil or rocks. Among them are frost-resistant and non-resistant, needing shelter. The second type includes grassy lianas, the ground part of which dies off in the fall, and the following year the shoots grow from the roots.
Common myth
It is impossible to argue with the fact that the house (or other buildings), overgrown with plants, looks very attractive, you want to live in it happily.
However, it is often written that “under the shoots of vines, the walls become damp, moldy, and the lifetime of the structure is shortened”. But this is not so! Most lianas build up a very dense crown on which the leaves are “tiled”. Even after a downpour with a strong side wind, the wall under the plant remains dry. Do not believe - check!
Dampness on the wall, overgrown with vines, may appear in the fall or spring, if the shoots of deciduous plants are located directly on it. The fact is that in the interweaving of stems, fallen leaves sometimes accumulate, which absorb precipitation. To solve this problem is very simple - just leave a gap between the supports (to which the stems are attached) and the wall of the building. Or, if the climate allows, to plant evergreen vines - under them will be dry all year round. Why do you think the British love so much to twist their brick houses with ivy in their wet climate?
Sergey SIDORENKO, agricultural scientist, x. Podolsky
CLASSIFICATION OF LIAN
There are 4 basic ways of growing vines, which are vital to be fixed on the support:
1. Twisting around;
2. Clinging to "suckers";
3. Attaching with antennae;
4. Keeping on the stalk.
Some plants have a mixed type of attachment.
CAUGHT, OR DIVIDING
Depending on the species, their shoots always twist strictly in one direction: clockwise or against it. Some do it freely, others very tightly, and can literally choke other plants. For example, hops spin in a clockwise direction, and actinidia and kirkazon - against. The movement “by the sun”, like that of a hop, is a rarity, in the middle lane even Chinese magnolia grows so.
Note
The only plant climbing in any direction is nightshade, but the direction of rotation of its separate bush is always constant.
TYPES OF PLANTS: actinidia, akebiah, wisteria, mountaineer, dioscorea, tree pliers, honeysuckle, calistegia, kirkazon, codonopsis, lemongrass, moon seedling, breech, sweet-hallow, three-vest grapes, hops.
Natalia Danilova, biologist
The nature of these vines
If plants from the climbing group do not have reliable support or their shoots are annually removed and laid on the ground (with the exception of calistegy, nightshade, akebiah), lianas practically do not bloom. Increase a lot of shoots, which inhibits the growth of the main shoots and often frosting. Even tops that have grown up in the autumn grow ripe and stand up well on a reliable support.
By the way
The trunks of some vines from this group become durable over time, thereby creating a “live” support for themselves. They easily grow together with each other in contact.
It is undesirable to use them as ground cover.
Plants are great for metal fences and other openwork designs.
Bottom lian often bare.
These are the thickest among the vines.
Sergey SIDORENKO, x. Podolsky
GARDEN LIANS Choosing annual and perennial vines: VIDEO
SUCTION LIANS
Some creepers form small adventitious root-suckers, growing directly from the stem. Touching the support, they release sticky substances, with the help of which they cling to both the smooth and the porous surface, they can grow into cracks and irregularities. These roots develop only on the shadow side (facing the support) of the stem. When a plant encounters an obstacle, it can begin to grow in the side.
Plant species: maiden grapes (mixed type of attachment), Forchun's euonymus, petilated hydrangea (mixed), Campsis, Irish ivy.
Natalia Danilova
What is the power of plants
Some creepers appreciate the beauty of the leaves and edible fruits - these are actinidia, lemongrass, grapes, akebiah. Others are spectacular blooms.
- - rose, clematis, prince, wisteria, mountaineer, honeysuckle, campsis. Or dense sheet mosaic
- - ivy, Girlish grapes, kirkazon, Forchun's euonymus, hydrangea.
Their shoots grow tightly to the support.
At a young age they grow in different directions, including in the direction of the shadow.
On the fragile support stop growing and form shoots. Remove them from the pergolas can not.
They are reluctantly attached to thin supports (netting).
Perfectly strengthens the masonry, for example, high retaining walls and fences. You can sit down to the trunks of healthy adult trees.
In the shade, the soil is tightly closed, not hindering the growth of early-spring bulbous, shade-tolerant grasses and ferns growing vertically.
Evergreen ivy, Forchun's euonymus protect stone structures from dampness.
Sergey SIDORENKO, x. Podolsky
Reference by topic: Types of vines for vertical gardening
CHAINING OR ORTHINAL LIANS
They are fixed with annual tendrils or leaf stalks. Antennae are small processes extending from the stem of a plant. They cling, twisting and twisting around the base, which was near. Tighten shoots and lignified, keep them on a support.
Plant types: brionium, grapes (Amur, coastal, fox), vineyard (aconitolist, short-colored, deciduous, variegated), clematis, prince, rank.
Natalia Danilova
Grow well, bloom and bear fruit.
In the winter, if necessary, you can remove from the support or lay with it.
Can be grown as a ground cover.
With free growth drowned under any vegetation.
In the maiden grape, there are two methods of attachment - it clings to the antennae growing on the annual shoots, it also sticks to the support, and therefore is suitable for decorating the cameo masonry. Over time, the antennae become fragile, and you need to make sure that the main trunk is securely fastened along its entire length.
Sergey SIDORENKO, x. Podolsky
CUTTING LIANS, OR LIANOIDS
They do not twist around the support and do not cling.
Their shoots rely on the branches of other plants, holding onto them by thorns, spines, pubescence, or side shoots bent at a right angle.
Plant types: rose, pyracantha.
Natalia Danilova
The nature of these vines
Give a lot of lateral shoots.
Grows in the form of shrubs with arched drooping branches.
A support for lianoids is desirable with branches at the top, imitating a tree or shrub.
Sergey SIDORENKO, x. Podolsky
Reference by topic: Lianas for landscaping: perennial and annual
ACONITE CURRENT, OR FIGHTER
This is a vine with a part of the aerial that dies off in winter. In garden centers, sometimes there are seedlings and other species, for example Aconite arcuate (A. arcuatum). I want to warn against possible disappointments - they spend the winter only in countries with a warm climate.
It is not enough to twine the liana, it is desirable to provide either a grid with large cells, or a pergola in the form of a lattice. Aconite winds lazily and all strives for something to lean on the leaf stalks. In this, it is similar to clematis (they are from the same family - the Buttercup).
The color of the flowers in aconite is bluish-syrene, there is also a white-flowered terry form Pleno.
Landing
It is better to land aconite in a warm sheltered place in light penumbra. You can settle a vine near a tall shrub, such as lilac, and give the opportunity to curl along its branches. In July, the first flowers bloom on aconite. Flowering lasts more than a month, alternately appear flower after flower, from bottom to top. The height of creepers in our conditions - 2 or a little more. The plant does not like dry soil, but does not tolerate stagnant water. Feels best on low-acid, organic-rich loams.
Reproduction of aconite
Easy to propagate by seed. When sub-winter sowing shoots appear together in spring.
Transplantation at a young age the plant tolerates easily, in an adult - it is bad. Replace better in early spring, before the growth.
Andrey GANOV, collector
ACTINIDIA (ACTINIDIA)
It is also called - kiwi. This is a beautiful woody vine from the Far East. It hibernates well in conditions of a middle band and even more or less.
On sale saw actinidia colomikta and argut. Which is better?
Anton Nechasty, Chernigov
“We grow 3 of our species in our collection site: colomicta, argutu and polygamy.
A. Kolomikta ripens first, early varieties - at the end of July, later - at the end of August. She is the most vitamin.
Argut and polygamum ripen from late August to October. Gourmets prefer Argut to taste.
A. Polygamy is called otherwise "vegetable." As long as the fruits are green, they have a sharp taste. By the way, in restaurants they are served as a savory supplement. Fruits contain the substance polygamol (it treats diseases of the stomach and fortifying effect on the body), as well as many vitamins.
Did actinidia disappear, did it freeze out?
Yana Raitina, Smorgon
Actinidia are often soaked when water stagnates in spring and autumn. Freezing the tips of annual shoots is not dangerous. After planting and before 2-3-s, seedlings must be protected from cats with the help of a grid that can destroy young plants.
How do awakened buds and young shoots tolerate return frost?
Anna Fedina
In the spring when -2-5 hail, die. But then the shoots are actively restored from dormant buds, and after 2-3 of the week the plant is all green again. True, full flowering on these shoots no longer happens.
Frosts are especially dangerous for young plants, they need to be covered when the temperature falls below 0.
When is it better to plant a vine?
Elena Radkova, Kovel
- It is better to plant seedlings with an open root system in the spring before bud break or in the fall after leaf fall, and container seedlings are better throughout the summer. The main thing is to apply them with a spunbond and to mulch the soil well to preserve moisture, and saplings are more likely to be sprinkled with water (in the heat it is better in the morning and evening).
I would like to wait for the fruit. Do I need to cover the vine in the frost?
Igor Lubinsky, Vitebsk
- It helps planting near the southern or western walls of the house, warming up during the day, and giving off heat on a cold night. The difference in temperature may be only a degree, but it will be enough to protect actinidia. Winter hardiness of our varieties allows not to remove the vines from the supports and not to cover them for the winter.
The bush planted several years ago does not bear fruit. They say it will not, because we have a male plant.
Anastasia Rudishkina
Actinidia do not change gender during life. It can be determined at the time of the first flowering, usually in 3-5-year-old plants. For fruiting need female and male vines. Fully actinidia produces fruits from 7-10 year.
Supports for "Kiwi"
For decorative. I drive a stake about 2 m high or a narrow trellis and let the liana around the support. It will spin counterclockwise and create a funny bush, a kind of green very beautiful fountain. True, the fruit will be small. You need to create at least two such "fountains" - male and female.
To get a crop, you need to install a trellis in the form of a decorative grid (or specially stretched cords, slats, stuffed on the base, wall). Actinidia form so that the shoots spread along the wall, preventing its growth in height. In this case, if necessary, the vine can easily be covered from frost.
Natalia Danilova
ASSIGNMENT OF ACTHNIDIA
Since it is necessary to plant at least two plants - male and female, it is better to dig a solid trench, two shovels in depth of a shovel. Interval between landings — 1,5 m.
At the bottom you need to lay gravel or silicate brick (red liana does not like). It is best to use real granite rubble or pebbles. After that, pour a layer of sand, then leafy humus soil without manure. It is easiest to prepare the soil in the year before planting, gradually filling the trench from spring to late autumn.
When dusting the seedling, it is not necessary to deeply root the neck. The soil before planting and after it must be well moistened. Actinidia - moisture-loving plants, they require regular and fairly abundant watering (2-3 buckets for each).
See also: Actinidia and other vines - growing in an ordinary garden
Top dressing actinidia
If you do not remove foliage from actinidia, but on the contrary, in the autumn to gather fallen leaves of other trees under it, watering them in the spring and autumn with the solution of Fitosporin, you will not need any additional fertilizing. You can make rotted leaf humus or compost annually (or buy sapropel, and mix it in half with sand), approximately 1,5 buckets for each plant. If this is not done, actinidia will grow, but it will hardly bear fruit.
It is unnecessary to water it with a solution of organic matter (manure, chicken dung, infusion of weeds), she does not like it, as well as ash.
However, the plant responds well to fertilizer "AVA". It is advisable to make 1 st.l. immediately upon landing. granules right under the root. And to do this further every 3 of the year - only around the perimeter of the crown, and not under the trunk itself (this is about a meter and a half from it). With age, the dose can be doubled. Of the mineral actinidia responds well to fertilizer with macro and micronutrients.
Seeds are sown immediately after picking berries. First, they must be freed from the pulp. Seedlings develop slowly. They are transplanted to their permanent place at the age of 3.
BRYONIA WHITE (BRYONIA ALBA)
They offered bryonium tuber, “assuring that this plant is ideal for quickly decorating a gazebo and fence. How to grow it? Does it hibernate with us?
Polina Kalashnikova, Novopolotsk - Usually B. white is grown in the garden. It blooms for a long time, it grows thick greens, which is very attractive. Stems are fixed with antennae. To quickly decorate a gazebo or fence, a liana needs to be propagated by tubers or seeds, they are sown before winter. For growing suitable loose soil. The best place is semi-dark, wet.
Due to the powerful tuberous roots (weighing up to 1 kg), wintering in the ground (the aerial part dies off), brionium can build up 5-7 m long in summer.
Yuri PETROV, the owner of the nursery.
Useful Properties
I heard that brionium is useful. How can it be used?
Yana Golenko
Decoction and tincture are used for gout, lung and heart diseases. In case of sore throat, they drink broth 1 tsp, rinse their throats, sore teeth, make appliques.
Steamed root applied to abscesses, used for inflammation of the inner ear.
From fresh root gruel make applications for neuralgia, joint tumors.
Ointment. Mix the 1 portion of the juice from the root and the 4 portion of unsalted butter or vaseline. Rubbing ointment or tincture of the root, treat rheumatism and sciatica, scab on the scalp.
- In folk medicine, bryonia is used in small doses as a laxative and diuretic, as a hemostatic for uterine bleeding, as well as for coughing, pneumonia, bronchitis and pleurisy, some eye diseases, epilepsy.
Decoction. 20grush / 1 Art. water, drink 1 tsp. 3 once a day.
Tincture. 75 g root on 1 / 2 Art. alcohol, take 10 3 drops a day.
Attention!
The plant is poisonous! Overdose is not allowed!
External use for acute radiculitis, neuritis, neuralgia, lumbago, plexitis and sciatica, rheumatism, gout and other diseases. Sore spots rubbed with fresh root, its broth or tincture.
Catherine Kuzmenko, herbalist
VINOGRADE MALE PARTHENOCISSUS
Of the 10 species in the gardens, they are used: ivy-shaped (trio-streaky), attached and virginian, or five-leafed. The latter type is most suitable for growing in the middle lane without shelter.
PLUSES OF PLANT
It develops well on almost any soil.
Increase per season - 2-3 m. Grapes are beautiful all season. Forms a dense veil.
Does not require a large area for the roots.
It grows in the sun and in the shade, but the amount of light depends on the color of the leaves.
It is not subject to diseases and on-procession of pests.
Easy to propagate.
Cons
Long and powerful aggressive roots, diverging underground by several meters.
Spring wakes up later than many plants.
Can sprout under the roof of slate or tile and damage it.
Need control for actively growing shoots.
Landing
The girlish grape grows on all cultivated soils. At the site with heavy soil, it is necessary to pour a drainage layer on the bottom of the pit, then - planting mixture.
Sandy soil is enough to improve a little, not digging a hole. To give the plant a boost for faster growth, compost or rotted manure, a handful of complex fertilizers are added to the planting site. In the loamy area, in addition, you must add more sand.
Rooted (or not) cuttings are planted obliquely, powdered and watered.
To decorate the facade of the house, it is not necessary to build a support: the parthenocissus can cling to the slightest roughness on smooth walls, excluding, for example, siding, for some reason he does not like it. The plant climbs easily and on the grids.
Care for girlish grapes
Watering should be in drought to save foliage. Then it will be possible to do it less often if you grind it with soil, humus or compost.
Due to the amazing simplicity of parthenocissus, all care for him can be reduced to rare watering and pruning unnecessary whips. But if you want to see on your site a magnificent, well-groomed handsome man, create more comfortable conditions for growth.
At the beginning of summer, you can feed the vine with nitroammofoskoy, and during active growth to make complex fertilizer.
In spring around April - to remove dried, damaged shoots, as well as to form a crown.
Reproduction
You can chop off during the season by cutting shoots with 4-5 with buds. When planting 2-3 buds are buried.
Root better razvodochnuyu beds, maintaining soil moisture and pritenya seedlings. It is easy to propagate liana by layering, dropping shoots horizontally. Above the surface, leave only the tip.
Another plant is propagated by seed (gives self-seeding) or by shoots.
Further Care
Remove branches, deviating to the side.
Young shoots are fixed on a support as they grow.
If you do not follow the grapes, and he turned into a mound, form again. Scruffy branches need to be shortened, as well as cut all intersecting and thickened.
Forming pruning is done in the spring, when the plant has not yet awakened, and in the summer only sanitary: remove thickening and weak shoots, as well as the sick and damaged.
Natalia Danilova. Photos of Valentina BONDAR
See also: Annual vines and vertical landscaping with the help of these plants
VINE GRADES (PARTHENOCISSUS TRICUSPIDATA)
Its most common form is Wicha (f. Veitchii). By the fall, this plant is dressed in an orange-red outfit.
Liana is good at arbors, walls, on roofs, fences and pergolas. During the season shoots grow on 3-4 m.
Planted on the retaining wall Vicha Grapes behaves like an ampelous plant, dropping down the shoots.
Can be used as a ground cover - expands in width by 3 m, forming a thick carpet up to 25 thickness, see.
Grow better in containers.
Reproduction
Seeds.
It is better to sow them in the fall to a permanent place; in the spring of their pre-2-3 of the month they stratify at + 4-5 degrees.
In the first year, the seedlings are fed complex fertilizer (according to the instructions). For the winter in the first 2-3 of the year.
Cuttings. They are cut in spring and summer from the last-year-old sleeping shoots. For better rooting, pruning is used with small outgrowths that already have the beginnings of future roots. Cuttings with two or four nodes can be bred in water, but the best result is obtained when landing in the ground.
Root scions.
Scions dug out at the base of the bush are first grown in a schoolhouse, and a year later they are planted in a permanent place. When planting the root collar is not buried.
Natalia Danilova
VINOGRAD AMURSKY (VITIS)
Powerful and very beautiful liana. It quickly grows to a 8-meter height. At the end of summer, its leaves become carmine-red, crimson, brown, golden, orange, purple-violet tones.
In folk medicine
The seeds and callus contain the phytohormone resveratrol, which is especially useful when there are problems due to a decrease in the function of the endocrine system.
Tincture.
Cuttings furrow (cut through the bark in several places), wrap the lower ends in a damp cloth, put in a bag.
After 3 weeks there are white rushes. Blade scrape this callus with pieces of bark, dried, ground on a coffee grinder. Then 1 tsp. powder you need to pour 50 ml of vodka, insist 2 week. Drink on 1 t. during meals or immediately after it for prophylaxis, and for treatment - according to tsp 2-3, diluted in cold boiled water.
You can drink with sediment. Early varieties are used: Taiga, Muromets, Pink pearls, Northern Blue.
Olga STROGOVA, a grape collector
Soil and breeding.
It grows well in slightly acid soil with a high content of leaf humus with regular watering in summer. No need to remove fallen leaves from under it. Propagated by root suckers, cuttings and layering, as well as sowing of freshly harvested seeds before winter. If the seeds are purchased at the store, they must first be held 30 min. in a pink solution of potassium permanganate, and even better - in a solution of "Enegen" or "Epin-extra", according to the instructions. Also suitable "Zircon" or "Novosil." And then stratify in wet sand in the refrigerator for at least 2 months. In the spring they are sown on seedlings or in open ground in shkolku.
About winter hardiness. Only young, not managed to ripen shoots freeze slightly. This does not affect the decorativeness of vines, as young shoots begin to grow rapidly in the spring. In November, young grapes are removed from the support and laid. Or short cut and cover the ground part of the roots of the plant. The adult liana can not be removed from the supports. All frozen and shrunk parts are cut out in March. Grapes can not be cut after the start of sap flow (in April) and until the end of the growing season (November).
Galina KIZIMA
VINEYARD
Garden conditions
It is better to choose a protected place. Well, if the plant will be lit in the morning and evening, ideal is a sunny plot with openwork penumbra of deciduous trees.
The soil is loose and fertile with the addition of humus or compost.
Planted 2-3-year-old seedlings, and it is better to take root autumn planting.
In the first year, it is necessary to monitor the soil moisture, and then - to water in a drought.
Feed from the second year in early spring with complex fertilizer, according to the instructions.
In the fall in the early years, the vine needs to be covered, then the plant adapts to the conditions. In spring, the frozen shoots are shortened, and the vine is quickly restored.
I grow in a container
Where is it better to plant variegated grapes? Is he afraid of frost?
Maria Novitskaya
- You can land in open ground. In the middle zone in the anomalous winters, it is damaged by frost, so it grows much lower than in nature. In an ordinary winter, only the undisturbed vine tops frost over. The root system of ampelopsis is frost resistant. Every year I leave in the garden for the winter a few plants in containers without shelter. And in the spring on them necessarily grow new shoots. By the end of summer, the vine reaches a length of about 1,5 m and begins to bloom. Then on the shoots ripen small, but very showy berries of bright blue color.
GLYCINIA (Wisteria)
Garden centers usually offer Wisteria Chinese (W. chinensis), blooming or multi-flowered (W. floribunda) or their many decorative forms. But they endure only short frosts to -20 degrees!
According to an experienced grower and owner of a unique garden of rare plants Alexander Alexandrovich Romanov from the city of Voronezh, the most stable in the middle zone of the city is the large-leaved (W. macrostachya) variety Blue mun. She comes from North America and withstands temperatures down to -40 degrees.
Important condition
Alexander Aleksandrovich considers the location of the shoots and pruning to be the most important in growing this wisteria. In the summer you can not give it too high to grow. And the more horizontal (!) Shoots are located, the better and more abundant flowering will be. Therefore, to use a grid for support is wrong.
Wisteria increase up to 1,2 m per day! A vertical support is desirable not higher than 3 m, it is necessary to weld long horizontal wire trellises to it, to which the shoots must first be directed.
Liane requires a southern location with a maximum of the sun. In the shade it grows, but does not bloom. In the spring, shoots should be drastically cut, as the inflorescences appear on the growth of the current year. During the summer, the vine can be formed. Cut must be carefully, without falling into a flower bud.
If before winter there was a warm autumn, and the liana gave a big increase, it will most likely freeze, but it is not so important for the plant.
Reproduction
You can propagate after the first flowering of green cuttings and vodka (pinned shoots to the ground). Many grow vine from seeds. However, the seedlings may not bloom in 20 years, and when grown from a stalk blooms in 5-6 years.
Wisteria comfortably close to the pond. She needs a neutral nutrient soil. Watering - moderate.
Valentine BONDAR. Photos of Tatiana SANCHUK
LITTLE SPRING (HYDRANGEA PETIOLARIS)
Tenacious adventitious roots, by means of which the hydrangea rises not only along the trunks, but also along the walls, pergolas and stones, do not form immediately, therefore in the first years the shoots need support. The plant does not like drafts and it is more comfortable for him at the walls of buildings. Can be planted near the shrunken trees.
To decorate a wall, shoots of young plants need to be fixed on it with staples, sometimes they stretch the net or simply put an 3-4 piece of reinforcement of the right height, sticking them into the soil at a distance of about 10 cm from the wall, and tilted to it.
Planting hydrangeas
Plant better in April and October. Plants with a closed root system - throughout the season. For planting use 2-3-year-old seedlings. Before planting, the plant is removed from the container and put in a bucket of water for an hour or two.
The planting pit is dug in twice as many root lumps with heavy soil make it deeper, taking into account the drainage layer. The bottom of the 10 cm fall asleep with broken brick or gravel, on top - a fertile mixture. To do this, the soil is half mixed with loose compost, peat. Unlike bush species, this hydrangea can grow even on calcareous soil. Too dense root ball should be carefully loosen the bottom and sides. When planting, monitor the level of the root collar - dig in no more than 2, see. Plant well, irrigate and mulch with leaf humus, bark, peat or compost with a layer of 8-10.
In early spring, doing sanitary, removing broken and dry shoots. They cut off the frozen tops and thin shoots thickening the crown.
So that the vine will evenly cover the wall or support, shorten its long branches, pinch the tops (approximately from 4 of the year) during the summer. If necessary, form the crown.
Reproduction
Hydrangea can be divided, grafted, cut.
Share better in early spring. Cherenok after pruning or in June with semi-lumbering cuttings. Cut them with two nodes, lower leaves are removed, upper - shortened. Root in a mixture of peat and sand (1: 1) in greenhouse conditions.
In spring, shoots can be separated from an adult bush - young shoots. From above, they are shortened to several buds and the roots are pruned a little.
In August or early May, hydrangea is propagated by layering. To do this, the bark of annual shoots are pruned in diameter and pinned to this place, then covered with soil. With all breeding methods, it is necessary to maintain soil moisture at the rooting site.
COTTLE TREE (CELASTRUS)
A tree pincer or a red bladder firmly wraps around the support counterclockwise. Literally plunging into the trunk, the powerful whips of a tree pliers are capable of destroying a tree growing nearby. By twining it, the vine grows deep into the wood and gradually drinks all the sap of the donor plant. The trunk of a dry tree continues to serve as a reliable pillar of the tree.
After all, all this is easy to avoid and enjoy the beauty and power of the plant.
The most sustainable and often grown in gardens - Olecranes (CELASTRUS orbiculata). In the middle lane, this vine grows to 6 m. Already at the base of the soil, the plant branches into the stem 2-3, and at the top every year more than 10 young shoots spirally rise to the top. On the bark there are hard buds with a length of 1,5-3 mm, which, with word hooks, help the curling rods to capture and hold the support. If it is not there, the shoots are able to consolidate on a flat vertical wall and then remain straight for the length of 3 m or they will simply move along the ground.
D. braided (CELASTRUS flagellaris) it can rise to a height of up to 10 m, sometimes it does not twist a tree, but climbs up it. Interestingly, in places of contact, a mass of primitive roots is formed, which can further cause the death of the tree. This type of plant is dioecious. It can also be used as a ground cover.
Celastrus strigillosus no kidney spines. Flowering begins in the second half of June.
The tree plower prefers a sufficiently lit place, when shading develops poorly and bears less fruit. It is unpretentious to the soil, but loves fertile, loamy and sandy areas. Shoots on the vine grow very quickly, often they twist around each other, weaving together.
It is possible layering, root suckers, lignified and green cuttings. Otkodok easily takes root even with a broken root.
Liana is well propagated by seeds, the germination of which lasts 2-3 years. After collecting them for 2-3 weeks, dried at room temperature. It is best to sow freshly picked seeds before winter or spring, but then cold stratification (at 0 ... + 3 deg.) Will be required for 2 months. The substrate for sowing is light fertile loamy soil. Shoots appear a month after sowing. Seed germination underground, i.e. elliptical cotyledons do not show above the soil surface.
Alla KUKLINA, Cand. biol. of sciences
DIOSKOREYA NIPPONSKAYA (DIOSCOREA NIPPONICA)
A plant can remain in one place in the same framework for decades. The leaves grow spike downward and together form a mosaic that guides the sediment into the tree trunk. It is an adaptation to self-watering, because the roots of Dioscorea are superficial.
Place in the garden and care
Bogging or excessively poor and at the same time dry soil can lead to the death of the vine. Better plant grows on humus, well-drained and at the same time constantly moist soil based on soddy land, peat and sand (1: 2: 2 or 1: 2: 1).
Pristvolny circle should be in the shade, and the vine itself - in the sun. A completely open place, like a thick shadow, although portable, but not favorable.
It’s impossible to dig up and loosen the ground under a vine. Care is reduced only to fertilizing in the form of mulch. And it is especially useful to use leaf humus (aspen, birch, maple, linden, etc.), high peat, weed compost.
The most effective seed method. In our garden, Dioscorea blooms in mid-June. Fruits with seeds are cut off as late as possible and I sow the boxes themselves, sprinkling them with top peat with a layer of 1, see. Seedlings are transplanted to a permanent place via 2-3 of the year.
In mid-June, I cut the ripened part of the shoots into cuttings with two internodes. Rooting as usual.
Alexander SMIRNOV, the owner of the nursery
FATALITY (LONICERA)
During the flowering of honeysuckle delight overwhelms any owner of such beauty, although most know only J. Capricoleum and J. Tatar. But there are many other types of it, no less beautiful and easy to care for. They bloom elegantly, durable and easily reproduce.
Landing
Early-flowering species and varieties are best planted from August to mid-October.
Spring planting is suitable for species with late vegetation, for example, covering, Maak.
Plants with a closed root system are planted from spring to autumn.
Honeysuckle grows well on any soil, but develops better on loose and drained.
Very dry and low areas are not suitable for it.
Before planting, organic matter is added to poor soil, 'sand and peat are added to loamy soil.
A landing pit for three-year bushes is prepared with a depth of 25-30 cm and a diameter of 25 cm, for 5-7-year-old seedlings with a depth and diameter of 50 cm. It is good to place the bushes in the form of a hedge along the site at a distance 1,5-2 m from each other.
Alla KUKLINA.
LENGTH OF ESCAPE, TIME OF FLOWER. FLOWERS PAINT
FEATURES
NAME OF TYPE | ||
Honeysuckle Caprylic (Lonicera caprifolium) | The length of the shoots to 5 m. In June, creamy pink | Elegant in summer and autumn |
Curly honeysuckle, often called German or Lithuanian (Lonicera periclymenum) | Shoots 3-4 m, July-August. The flowers are yellowish, often with a reddish tinge. | Particularly in demand is the Serotina variety with dark crimson flowers. More thermophilic than honeysuckle, after frosting is restored due to new growth. There are grades Grahm Thomas, Munster, Harleguin |
Honeysuckle Brown (Lonicera rbrownii) Honeysuckle Coverlet (Lonicera involucrata) | Shoots 3 m. The flowers are bright, orange-red in the variety Dropmore Scarlet. Up to 3 m. It blooms in May and June. Orange flowers | You need a sunny place, protected from cold winds. For the winter, the plant is covered. It multiplies well and tolerates shading. Exotic in July, when black berries ripen and the bracts turn purple |
Honeysuckle Tatar (Lonicera tatarica) | 3-4 m. Blossoms in May, very copiously. Color white-pink | White-flowered varieties Grandiflora and Alba are especially elegant, red flowers - Arnold Red, Morgen Orange, Punica, Elegans |
Honeysuckle of Korolkov (Lonicera korolkovii) | 3 m. At the peak of flowering can not see the leaves. Flowers delicate pink | Resistant to pests and diseases, drought-resistant and hardy |
Maaca honeysuckle (Lonicera maackii) | To 4 m. Snow-white flowers are arranged in smooth rows along the shoots. They are large and fragrant | In late August, bright red berries appear. |
Honeysuckle Maksimovic (Lonicera maxomowiczii) | To 2 m. Flowers are purple-red | Decorative not during flowering, fruiting and after leaf fall |
Ferdinand Honeysuckle (Lonicera ferdinandi) | Height to 3 m. In July, pale yellow flowers open. | Despite the origin, cold-resistant vine |
Natalia Danilova
Reproduction
It is easy to propagate honeysuckle cuttings, layering or dividing the bush. Any of these methods preserve varietal characteristics.
Green cuttings
Cut them from the middle part of the shoot, preferably with two pairs of leaves. The optimal length of the cutting 7-12 cm. Make the upper cut straight, stepping back from the kidneys 1-1,5 cm, lower - oblique. The lower leaves are cut, the upper ones are cut more than half.
Siblings and layouts
Root offsprings are taken from well developed plants with a powerful root system. In our climate, it is better to do this in the winter, in the “February-Rial windows”, in the middle lane - in the spring. Well-developed shoots of root shoots are selected and a piece of root from which they grow is dug up, length 30-40, see. Planted horizontally in partial shade to a depth of IQ-15, see. In the first year of cultivation, they feed nothing, monitor soil moisture.
When breeding by layering in spring or autumn, shoots are pinned to the ground and sprinkled with soil with a layer of 5-10cm. For the winter, this place is mulched with straw, peat or dry leaves. When young plants are well rooted, they are separated from the parent bush and planted in a permanent place.
Vladimir CHERNYAK, an experienced florist. Photos of Valentina BONDAR
Rooted cuttings in a mixture of peat and sand (1: 3). Before planting, their lower ends are powdered with “Kornevin”, planted obliquely at an angle of 45 degrees.
It is easy to propagate with green cuttings J. ordinary, Tatar, Ruprecht, Korolkov, Chamisso, with difficulty - J. Maack.
Seed plants
Seeds should be removed from the fruit immediately after they ripen and sow as soon as possible.
The soil for sowing should be loose - it is best to use leaf humus. In the future, we must make sure that the earth does not dry out and does not overheat in the sun. Time to remove weeds. Young plants grow more actively in the penumbra with sufficient soil moisture. In the first year of the growing season, their root system is still weak, therefore, they are planted in a permanent place for the second or third year of cultivation, depending on the state and degree of development.
Alla KUKLINA. Photos of Valentina BONDAR
CAMPSIS REDUCING (CAMPSIS RADICANS)
This is a large ligneous liana. It is able to withstand short frosts to -20 hail. Flowering begins in mid-June and lasts until September.
Landing
Campsis will grow on any soil, but it grows better and blooms on loose, fertile, neutral in terms of acidity. The site needs southern, sunny, with low groundwater levels and without flooding in floods and rains.
Planted Kampsis in April. On the cultivated soil, the landing pit can be not done, but only a bucket of compost or humus and 1 Art. potassium phosphate fertilizer, dig up. On heavy soil, the pit is necessary. If there is an excess of moisture in the root zone, the campsis may die, so drainage is first poured on the bottom with a layer of 15-20 cm (crushed stone or gravel, sand on top), then the soil. After planting it must be watered well. Next to install support, in the first year - you can temporary.
Council
Campsis gives a lot of overgrown, actively inviting the territory. It can safely be planted on the site, on all sides limited by paving or asphalt. You can protect the rhizome to a depth of 1 m.
For this fit flat slate or sheets of metal.
Seeds do not require stratification. They are sown on seedlings in containers with loose soil, sprinkled with a layer to 5 mm. Water, cover crops with a package. You can germinate in any bright place. When the seeds have risen, the container needs to be rearranged to the south or west window. Planted in open ground in the beginning and middle of May. Campsis seeds obtained bloom on 6-8 year.
Green cuttings cut in June-July
Lignified cuttings live very well. Cut them in early spring from last year's growth. Root can be under the bottle with an open cap. Layers. Lignified or green shoots of Kampsis need to be pinned to the soil and sprinkled. During the summer, monitor the soil moisture. The following spring, it is already possible to separate independent rassnitsa and plant them in a permanent place.
Care
The plant is drought resistant, but well leafy shrubs and abundant flowering can be expected with regular watering.
Pruning.
Control the length of fast-growing shoots can be pruned - in the fall. It is important to enhance flowering next year.
To form the skeleton, 2-3 choose the strongest shoots, the rest are removed. They are sent on a support, tie up. Formation takes at least 3 years, sometimes more. Already formed and flowering bushes annually strongly cut. Only lignified skeletal branches and 3-4 new, which shorten the 2-3 buds (cut before them), are left. To maintain the decorativeness of the vines, wilted inflorescences are removed on 3-4 buds, shortened faded shoots.
Unnecessary growth is dug up or cut off at the ground, closer to the rhizome.
Rejuvenation
To do this, cut off all the shoots on 30 cm from the soil.
Campsis can do without supplements, but for the abundance of flowering give complex mineral fertilizers (according to the instructions). He is not sick. From pests in the heat or with a lack of moisture may appear aphid.
For the winter, shoots of vines should be removed from the support, whip rolled into a ring and pinned to the soil. Top insulate with available materials.
Natalia Danilova. Photos of Valentina BONDAR
CALYSTEGIA DEDICATED (CALYSTEGIA HEDERACEAE, S. PUBESCENS)
Kalistegia is known to many as the field bindweed - a weed; it is an intake (C. sepium. Grow a hybrid of C. fluffy, terry-shaped (C. hederifolia plena, syn. C. japonica). It blooms from July to the first frost, and planted in the sun blooms earlier on 2-3 week. The flowers are large, in diameter 7-8 cm and so adorable that you fall in love with them immediately.
Since the plant is aggressive and can sprout in the spring in the most unexpected places, the landing site should be limited. Despite the fact that the rhizome of Kalistegia is spreading at a depth of about 20 cm, encountering an obstacle, it can deepen even more to circumvent it. Therefore, by trial and error, the plant was limited by digging in flat slate to a depth of 40-45, see. To get a thick rocker, the soil needs nourishing, moderately moist. Humus or compost can be added to garden soil, and ash - 2 Art. / on 1 sq. m., and complete mineral fertilizer - 2 st.l / sq. Segments of rhizomes with buds are laid out horizontally to a depth of 15-20 cm, covered and watered.
Care
During the summer, if there is no rain, the plant should be watered. 2-x fertilizing of fermented grass or other organic matter in the season will be enough.
Kalistegia also responds to foliar feeding with complex and micronutrient fertilizers (according to the instructions).
This liana is propagated vegetatively, separating offspring with roots. This is usually done in the spring, as soon as shoots appear. Seed plant does not form.
You can dig up the rhizome along with the soil in the fall and leave it in the basement for the winter. At the beginning of spring, get, clear from the ground, divide into parts and land in containers. When shoots appear, pinch to the roots to branch. In June, they can be planted in the garden.
Natalia Danilova. Photos of Valentina BONDAR
KIRKAZON (ARISTOLOCHIA)
In the middle lane, one can plant K. Manchu (A. manshuriensis) safely, but K. large-leaved ones can be planted in warm corners of the garden, although its frost resistance has improved over the years. An important condition for growing kirkazona - a stable stable support.
Growing conditions
Especially comfortable plant in the shadow walls, on the north and east side. In sunny southern ones, on the contrary, it is uncomfortable, and even if the soil is dry. The longer the kirkazon is in the open sun, the more wet the ground should be. In such a place, a weakened plant is easily affected by pests, such as spider mites. Leaves become stained, turn yellow and die.
You can prevent problems - more often water and spray the crown. The diseased plant must be treated with insecticide (according to the instructions).
Too dense plantings and excessive moisture can cause powdery mildew and rot. In this case, an urgent need to cut thickening, weak and damaged shoots and process the crown with a suitable fungicide (according to the instructions).
Interestingly
Flowers kirkazona adapted for catching insect pollinators. In shape they resemble jars, curved like smoking pipes. Trying to get out of the trap, flies, bugs, mosquitoes and other insects carry pollen on the stigma of the pistil. Flowers are usually pollinated by flies, flying on an unpleasant, but so tempting smell for them.
A plant seedling is advisable to buy in a container. At the same time, select specimens with healthy leaves, yellowed can signal pests.
The best landing time is spring and autumn. Place of landing - preferably protected from drafts.
First you need to install a support or pull the wire. The distance to the wall is at least 10 cm.
Natalia Danilova
The pit should be prepared twice as wide as the root ball. The soil can be sandy or clayey, but necessarily moisture-intensive, loose and god-humus. On depleted or heavy soils, the pit is dug to the depth of 50-60. See the bottom - drainage layer, the rest of the volume is filled with non-acidic compost (prepared on the basis of leaves, grass), humus, sand, sour peat and sod earth. Having got the plant out of the tank, at the bottom of the coma it is necessary to slightly straighten the horses, long ones can be shortened. After landing, water well. Direct shoots on the support and secure them with a string.
Warning: all parts of the plant are poisonous!
Propagated liana seeds, as well as layering, grafting and dividing the bush.
In your garden is easier to propagate layering. To do this, choose an escape from the ground, dig a nearby groove with a depth of about 5 cm, into which it is laid, then pin it down and sprinkle it. The top remains above ground. In the place of contact with the soil, the bark of the shoot is plowed (scratched).
Seeds are sown in the winter on the bed, covered with leaves, which in the end of March you need to rake. Cherenkovat can be in May, July and early August. Root cuttings are 20 cm long (it is advisable to treat them with “Kornevina” powder) in a mixture of peat and sand (1: 1), poured with a layer of 3-4 cm onto the soil. Planted obliquely, leaving 1-2 buds above ground. After watering, the surface of the soil is mulched and a mini greenhouse is arranged.
Young plants are planted on a permanent place no earlier than in 2 of the year.
Natalia Danilova
Wintering K, Manchu
Kirkazon Manchu divided last year, after which it almost ceased to develop. Maybe he does not like this procedure? And is it necessary to take it off for the winter from supports?
Valentina Simonovich
- K. Manchu is a rather large liana. The root system of this plant is growing slowly, apparently so your Kirkazon still does not move in growth. The plant has powerful roots, it must be taken into account when choosing a landing site. This species is the most winter-hardy among the brothers. However, the bush becomes frost-resistant only with age, therefore, rooted cuttings, seedlings and saplings in the first years should spend the winter with shelter.
Young shoots of K. Manchu must be removed from the support and covered with dry leaves for the winter. 3-year-old liana can not cover. When the spring frosts freeze, the tips of the shoots and young leaves are usually frozen, but the vine is quickly restored.
Yulika GRIGORYAN, Chairman of the Clematis and Other Vines Section
CLEMATIS (CLEMATIS)
At one place can grow 15-20 years. By flowering time is divided into: late spring-summer flowering, early summer and summer. Some varieties bloom until frost.
At one place can grow 15-20 years. By flowering time is divided into: late spring-summer flowering, early summer and summer. Some varieties bloom until frost.
Groups of large-flowered clematis
Name | The length of the shoots. Characteristic | Trimming for the winter |
Jacquemane | 3-4 m, flowers of blue-violet-purple tones. Flowering on the shoots of the current year | For the winter, completely cut off or leave 2-3 pairs of kidneys |
Viticella | 3-3,5 m. Flowers of pink-red-purple tones. Flowering on the shoots of the current year | Shoots pruned |
Lanuginosa | 2,5 m. Flowers of white, blue, pink tones. Flowering on the shoots of last year | Do not prune. When pruned in autumn, they bloom from the second half of the Letana new shoots. |
Patents | 3-3,5 m. Flowers from light to bright blue-violet-purple, deep-violet tones. Many varieties of terry. Flowering on the shoots of last year | Shoots in the fall are only shortened, removing the faded part. |
Florida | 3 m. Flowers of light tones. Flowering on the shoots of last year | Shorten them to 1,5-2 m |
Small-flowered clematis (diameter of a flower is up to 5 cm): vine-growing, tangug, violet, pilataceous, mountain, burning, straight, Manchurian.
Natalia Danilova. Photos of Tatiana SANCHUK
Saplings better to buy in containers. Plants tolerate transplant more easily, almost do not get sick. Planted in the ground can be from early spring to late autumn.
A freshly dug stalk or young planting bush cannot wait. It should be planted no later than the day after the purchase.
Particularly dangerous transplant for very young seedlings - one or two naklyuvshiesya buds and three roots. Most (up to 80%) of such seedlings die after planting.
When buying, pay attention to the appearance of the plant. The seedling should be healthy, strong, leaves green and formed, shoots woody or green.
They are tied to a support, the internodes are short, the soil in the pot is moist. Mandatory label with the name of the variety.
It is best to purchase biennial seedlings. They are usually sold in 2 l containers. These plants are not only more viable, but will also bloom earlier, because clematis reveals its full beauty at the age of three to five years.
Place in the garden
Since clematis is a long-liver, a place must be chosen at once correctly. It should be sunny, protected from wind and soaking. If you plant in the shade, the vine will grow, but will not give a lush bloom. Shrub expelled green mass, and flower buds do not lay. The sun 5-6 hours per day - the main key to success.
For varieties of clematis with dark flowers of violet, dark blue, red color and pure white, a sunny open space is suitable, as well as varieties with terry. It is better to plant light-colored, one-color and two-color flowers in the penumbra in the south-west or south-east: this contributes to their abundant flowering and rich color of the flowers.
Olga SHPORTOVL, clematis collector. Photo by Alexander LITIN
The landing pit is prepared in the size 60x60x60 cm. Drainage is filled at the bottom (10-15 cm). This protects the roots from getting wet and rotting during the rainy season and during the thawing of snow.
To remove the land you need to add biohumus, 2 Art. wood ash and a glass of complex granular fertilizer. If the area loam (heavy oily clay soil) - another part of the sand and peat. All mix well and moisten with plenty of solution: 1 table. "Alina" + 1 table. "Gamairah" / 1 l of water. These preparations contain Trichodermin fungi that prevent pathogenic microflora from developing.
At the bottom of the pit pour a bucket of fertile land in a heap in the form of a pyramid. A sapling is placed in the center, preliminarily freeing the roots from the ground from the container and rinsing them with water. Using the other hand, spread them along the slopes of the pyramid in different directions and gently press them to the ground. Notice what the roots of your clematis. They should be ropelike, sand-colored, not darkened and without spots. Root areas with dark spots should be carefully cut off, and sprinkle the places of the cuts with charcoal. After that, 1,5-2 buckets of earth fall asleep in the pit.
In the first year, a single-stem sapling is pruned to the lowest pair of strong buds. In May-July, the lateral and basal shoots are slightly trimmed and directed along the support. In November, all growths are cut in half by a strong pair of buds.
In the second and subsequent years, clematis first blooms on old growths. Immediately after flowering, shoots are shortened by a quarter or a third of the length (30 cm from the ground). In August-September, flowers appear on a young growth. At this time, you need to plant shoots so that they do not overlap. Clematis cutting height of this group is 50-70 cm from the ground. In an adult plant, to create a more decorative effect, five to seven healthy strong shoots are left and cut them at different heights: the two outermost ones are at 30 cm height, the next two are at 45 cm height, two medium ones are 60 cm and the central one is 70 cm In spring, shoots are stretched on a support fanlike and fastened. With this pruning plant from the bottom to the top will be covered with flowers and foliage.
3 group. Clematis blooming on the shoots of the current year. Plants are pruned dramatically, leaving 1-3 pairs of buds (20-30 cm from the ground).
If they are not cut, the growth begins on the branches that bloomed last year, the base quickly becomes bare, and the flowers are formed only at the top.
A freshly planted plant in the first year is cut to the lower pair of strong buds. In November, all stems are cut to the lower pair of strong buds. To the base of the bush sand is poured with charcoal and spud fertile soil.
In the second and subsequent years in May-June, as the side and root shoots grow, it is necessary to establish a support. In November, all the stems are again cut to the lower pair of strong buds.
Natalia Danilova
Seed propagated by species, hybrid large-flowered clematis - vegetatively. The graft is used for the multiplication of rare and poorly graded varieties.
The division of the bush. Clematis can be divided through 5-6 years after planting, and better in April. If it is impossible to dig up and divide a bush, it is necessary to dig it one way and separate part of the plant with a shovel.
Advantages of the method: the resulting delenki bloom quickly.
Minuses: all diseases of the maternal shrub are transmitted, sometimes clematis is poorly acclimatized due to the imbalance of the roots and shoots.
Spring, summer and winter cuttings. The cuttings use green or lignified. To improve the result, they can be treated with “Heteroauxin”, beta-indolylbutyric acid and A-naphthylacetic acid, “Appin” or “Cornevine”. It is very important to maintain the temperature + 18-20 hail, and humidity. It is best rooted cuttings when using a fogging installation. Plants should be protected from direct sun, overheating, drying out and excessive moisture.
Layering. In the spring, from the bush, grooves 5-10 depth are radially drilled down. See shoots, pinned with staples, covered with earth or peat. In a year they can be separated, cut into individual plants and each planted independently.
Pros: the method is simple in execution, does not reduce the decorativeness of the uterine bush.
Cons: Maternal plant diseases can be transmitted. Bloom later than when dividing.
Alexander RUSINOV, clematis collector. Photos of Valentina BONDAR
Is it possible to divide clematis blooming on shoots of last year in May? Olga Mitryuk
- Such clematis is only as a last resort divided into such inappropriate times. They can be divided until the buds are set to grow. On the eve, in the autumn, it is better to shorten the shoots to make it easier to separate. Even more suitable time for the division of clematis of the 2 group of cutting is autumn.
At each delenka there should be at least one kidney of the carriage. Try not to damage the roots and root neck.
Yulika GRIGORYAN
Cherenku, when 2-3 pairs of leaves turned fully, and the shoot itself was well formed. Clematis unleash and break out the shoot from the rhizome. I delete the top. It is safer to cuttings during budding - the beginning of flowering - in summer. I cut off the shoots, leaving 1-3 nodes.
Preparation of cuttings.
I cut them from the lower (spring) or middle (summer) part of the shoot. With one knot - Clema-yew, with two - princes, but in the spring it is better with 2-3-me. On a single-node handle, the lower cut is done under 45 hail, and in 3-4, see under the node. The top one is on 1 cm above the node.
In the two-three-node lower section, it is immediately below the node, and the upper section is approximately 1-2 cm above the leaves. I remove the lower leaves, shorten the upper leaves. Withstand cuttings
Substrates. Knyazhiki rooted in a mixture of coarse sand with peat and vermiculite (1: 2: 1). For clematis, I use lowland peat and add limestone chips (2: 3: 1).
Tara. I use bottles (1 -2 l) from dark plastic. I cut them across at a height of 2 / 3 from the bottom, but not completely, but so that the top of the bottle “opens”. On the bottom — drainage, on top — the substrate. Moisturize it.
Landing. After the coil, I wash the cuttings and plant them. I water it a little with Vitaros solution. Cut the bottle with adhesive tape. Cork twist. I dig in the garden, through 3 weeks I start to air by unscrewing the stopper.
Natalia ZARUCHEYSKAYA.
In dry weather, clematis do not water often, but plentifully, soak deeply the soil.
In the spring, they should be well shed with lime milk (200 g of lime on 10 liters of water per square meter). The soil around the bushes zamulchirovat.
In the summer, once a month, plants are watered with a weak solution of boric acid (1-2 g) and potassium permanganate (2-3 g / 10 l of water), and also sprayed the bushes with urea (0,5 st.L./10 l of water).
Tatyana SHIKANYAN
Nitrogen is given at the time of growth of young shoots. You can use urea (carbamide) - tsp xnum. on 1 l of water - under the bush.
2. During budding, a solution of mullein (1: 10) or bird droppings (1: 20) in water. Or feed the infusion of weeds (1: 2,5).
3. During the mass flowering - full mineral fertilizer (n-trophoska, azofoska, ecofoska), dissolving Art. 1. in 10 l of water - under the bush.
The last dressing is given after pruning, scattering on moist soil2-3 Art. ash (chalk) or 1 Art. lime or dolomitki.
You can use special balanced fertilizers.
Galina KIZIMA
Council
If instead of full mineral fertilizer (azofosk, ecofosk) when planting to use granulated "AVA" (1-2 tablespoon), this will be enough for 2-3 of the year. Then every 2-3 of the year you can make the same dose to a depth of 7-8 cm around the perimeter of the crown.
Then summer mineral dressing will not be required.
The main thing is that water does not stagnate at the landing site. Then, with the right cover, clematis will withstand cold weather to 40-45 degrees. Cover the bushes when the temperature is -5-7 hail, and the soil begins to freeze. In the middle lane is November. Cropped bushes of the Jacqumann, Vititella and Integrifolia groups are covered with dry earth or weathered peat, making a mound with a diameter of 60-80, see. For an adult plant, you need about 3-4 buckets.
In order to preserve the lashes of the varieties of the group Lanuginoza, Patents and Florida, in addition to the ground, the bushes are covered with boards, spruce branches, and above - with pieces of roofing material or iron sheets. If the frost is too strong or there is little snow, it is poured into the bushes.
In the spring, the shelter is removed gradually, some of the peat is left until the frosts are gone.
Tatyana SHIKANYAN, landscape designer
How to see signs of wilting (wilt) in time? A. Zinoviev
- Wither starts from the top of the shoot. The top of it leans down. And then the whole plant wilts, the leaves become like rags. This is a sign of a dangerous fungal disease called Wilt. It penetrates the plant from the soil through the root.
I advise regularly, every two weeks, since the beginning of the growing season, to shed the soil with a fungicide, for example, Fundazol (according to the instructions), you can also use a weak solution of potassium permanganate. But if the withering has not stopped, cut off the clematis thoroughly and continue watering with fungicides based on 3-5 l per plant. Then the following year the vine will show abundant flowering. Remember, preventive irrigation for soil disinfection is essential annually.
KNIAZHIK (ATRAGENE)
The plant is very winter-hardy, even in snowless winters. Long, 3-5 m, the stems are preserved, they can not be cut, as well as numerous thin shoots, which in May and early June are covered with delicate small leaves, and at the same time on last year's shoots many elegant flowers bloom. Flowering profuse, lasts about three weeks. In early August, usually begins the second wave of flowering on the shoots of the current year, but not so abundant. Liana can be grown as a groundcover.
Reproduction
Knyazhiki easily propagated by numerous root suckers, which from-drip and deposited in early August, and layering, like clematis. Seeds that ripen in early September are sown immediately after harvesting. Germination is not important, so the rate is tripled. Seedlings tolerate transplantation at any age, bloom on 3-4 year. There is no splitting in the progeny. Knyazhiki give self-seeding.
Landing
It is best to plant open-rooted atragens at the beginning of August, container ones at any time. They need a sunny place or partial shade, moisture-intensive fertile soil slightly acidic or neutral reaction. Princes are not afraid of winds and drafts.
The landing pit is prepared at least two weeks before planting, with the size 40x40x40, see. The root collar is sunk to 3-4, see.
Top dressing can be given only two times: with the appearance of buds - full mineral fertilizer, after the end of the first flowering - rotted compost. It is desirable to fill the soil under the plants all summer with weeded weeds, mowed grass, and in the fall with fallen leaves. This will free not only from weeding and watering, but also from additional fertilizing.
See also: Perennial fruit creepers
LEMON OF CHINESE (SCHISANDRA CHINENSIS)
This liana is a ligneane up to 7 m in height, 50 can grow in one place and more years. When rubbing leaves or young shoots a strong lemon smell is felt, hence the name - "lemongrass».
Possible problems
Lemongrass tolerates frost to -35 hail. However, it can suffer from frosts in May, when young shoots grow and flowering begins. Insects are not damaged and do not get sick. Only sometimes there is a leaf spot or burns if the vine grows in the sun.
Best grade: Firstborn and Garden-1.
Garden conditions
The planting place is better than partial shade; direct sun is needed only in the first half of the day - the plant does not like overheating of the foliage. But the shady places do not suit him. With a strong shade lemongrass leaves in the rhizome growth, does not bloom, shoots stop growing.
Liana grows well and bears fruit on loose fertile soil with an acidity level of pH 4,8-6,5 and sufficient moisture.
It does not even make temporary flooding. The close-lying root system is very sensitive to waterlogging. Therefore, areas with a high standing of groundwater, as well as often flooded, are not suitable for cultivation. At the same time, water is necessary for the growth and development of lemongrass, especially in the heat. On such days it is necessary to water both in the morning and in the evening. Retaining moisture will help the mulch from the compost or half-dead foliage with a layer of 8-10 cm, which is scored in the fall.
Sometimes lemongrass is planted under large trees, using them as a support. It is undesirable to do this - the vine will constantly lack moisture and light. Lee-Monnic needs a strong support that can be twisted.
Natalia KOZAK
Trimming
Highly thickened bushes do not bear fruit. In the middle lane, the vine is pollinated by the wind. In order for the pollen from a male flower to fall on the female, it is necessary that it dry quickly after the dew and not get stuck somewhere in the density. Male flowers are mainly located in the lower tier of vines. Therefore, the pollen still needs to rise up. Without thinning pruning such conditions are not possible to observe.
To eliminate the "crying" vines, pruning them in early March. First of all, partially or completely remove all the intertwined tops. I shorten to 30 see second order shoots. Scourge of the third order do not touch. I cut all the dry, leaving to replace the powerful shoots grown from the ground.
Stefan NEDYALKOV
Useful Properties
In eastern medicine, lemongrass is the second after ginseng. Both plants relieve physical and mental fatigue, give vigor, and restore strength. Seaside hunters claim that you can follow the beast without food all day long, if you eat a handful of dried berries of lemongrass before it.
The leaves contain vitamin C in 5 times more than the fruit. Therapeutic stems and roots of the plant are also curative. It is better to harvest the leaves when the buds appear, and to store them in the 2 glass jars of the year. But then they can be used for baths, as a skin tonic. After such a bath, you will feel a surge of strength.
Those who do not sleep well do not need to pour lemongrass in the afternoon. It is contraindicated if there is intolerance, nervous irritability, high blood pressure, impaired cardiac activity, marked atherosclerosis, pregnancy and lactation, as well as children up to 12 years.
But those who find it difficult to get up in the morning, as well as people with low blood pressure, just need to drip 1 tsp. tincture of a quarter cup of water and drink on an empty stomach. Or boil 1 tsp. fresh or dried shredded leaves in 2-x glasses of water. Let the 15-20 stand for a minute and drink.
Lemongrass tincture: fill the container with half the capacity (or up to the top with leaves, fresh or dried) and completely fill with vodka (the alcohol content must be from 20 to 40 degrees, then all the medicinal properties are in the tincture). If, however, it is poured with alcohol, the substances are preserved, that is, they are stored in leaves or berries, and almost nothing comes out of the solution.
Galina KIZIMA
PASLEN SWEET-BITTER (SOLANUM DULCAMARA)
This is a semi-woody polygamy up to 3 m high, with high growth energy. Peak decorativeness - during flowering, which lasts until autumn. Breeding
Seeds are extracted from ripe berries and sown in the open ground before winter or in pots, which they bring into the house at the end of February and are planted as tomatoes before planting in the garden. Indoors, seedlings dive into separate containers so that in mid-May they land on a spreading bed for growing. It is much easier to propagate this type of nightshade by cuttings or cuttings. Root them under cover (film, cut dark bottles) and in wet soil.
Garden conditions
Liana grows well in semi-shady wet places, but even more it is good on the sunny shore of the reservoir, where arches and tall trees are suitable as a support. On fertilizing organically, nightshade responds with rapid growth and abundant flowering. In the first year of feeding you need a weekly - until the end of July. And most importantly - abundant watering, if, of course, the vine is planted not in a damp place.
In the first year of winter, it is advisable to cover the soil under the bush with mulch well, and young shoots with nonwoven material. In the future, nightshade will spend the winter without shelter. Damaged frost shoots necessarily cut out, which stimulates the growth of new ones. In addition to the green leaf form in the garden centers you can find a variety of Variegata. In height, it grows no more than 2 m, it develops slowly, but it is incredible good!
Council
If necessary, nightshade can be cut every autumn on a stump, which leads to the rapid growth of young shoots in the spring.
Broth from fresh berries: 1 st.l. pour 2 Art. water. Keep an hour in the water bath. Drink on 1 Art. 3 once a day for epilepsy, migraine, dizziness, increased irritability, depression, neuralgia, facial and ocular nerve palsy, convulsions, venereal diseases.
It is white-hayed nightshade used for landscaping the balcony. It winters well in containers with a depth and width of at least 40, see. The plant is fed weekly with organo-mineral fertilizer and watered as the topsoil dries.
In order to avoid poisoning of children, the flowering inflorescences should be immediately cut off.
Infusion 1 tsp. young shoots pour boiling water in a thermos 300 ml. Insist 2 hours. Strain. Drink on 1 Art. before eating with infectious and respiratory diseases of the respiratory organs, metabolic disorders, lumbago, skin and bladder diseases, irregular menstruation, gout, dropsy.
Tincture of fresh grass nightshade with vodka (1: 5). Month to insist in a dark place. Drink with SARS and flu 10-30 cap. 3 once a day.
A slurry of leaves and fruits can be applied to burns.
Natalia Danilova
IVY
P. ordinary (N. helix) and some varieties of Colchis (N. coichica) are suitable for growing in the middle lane, only in the first 2-3 of the year it is better to cover them. The plant can be ampel and creeping.
Cultivation
Liana is not aggressive. It coexists well with any stones.
For planting it is better to choose a semi-shady elevated place, it can freeze out in the lowlands, although ivy likes moist soil. It is desirable that it contains lime and humus.
Reproduction
Seeds can be sown immediately after harvest or purchase in loose soil, preferably in a clean leaf humus. At room temperature, they sprout about 2 weeks. After the appearance of 5-6 true leaves are planted in a permanent place.
More often, ivy is propagated by cuttings that are easily baked in water, after which they are planted in a pot or container. You can immediately plant the cuttings in a mixture of sand and peat (1: 1) in open ground, cover with a can. If you do this in spring, in August-September they can be transplanted with a permanent place.
Vladimir CHERNYAK.
In folk medicine
Use leaves, less often - roots and seeds.
Hood: 0,5 tsp. leaves, pour 200 ml of cold boiled water, drain in an hour. Drink on 1 / 4 Art. per day with pulmonary tuberculosis, kidney stones, gout, as a diuretic, antiseptic. Externally - with calluses, warts, polyps, for washing purulent wounds caused by burns. Tincture: chopped herb pour vodka (1: 5). Drink 20 cap. 3 once a day after meals is soothing.
Galina LAVRENOVA
ROSA (ROSA)
Climbing roses of modern varieties conquer with long, sometimes continuous flowering, relatively low "growth", excellent health and often a stunning aroma. According to the international taxonomy, they are divided into six groups: multiflora, vishurian, lambert, rambler, banks, climing. You can divide them by the nature of growth: climbing, polupletistye.
The most sought after two groups. A real climbing rose is a Rambler. She has thin flexible shoots that can reach 3-4 m in length with small double or simple flowers with a diameter of 3-4. It blooms 35-45 days, but only once. Climbing (Climbing) is a climbing large-flowered rose with powerful thick shoots and large, often double flowers, which form on young shoots of this year. It blooms repeated or continuous, before frost.
Landing
You can plant in the fall and early spring. For planting dig a hole 70x70x70 cm, can be wider, and fill with nutrient soil. Roses love the fertile, friable, airy and permeable. During planting, it is necessary to introduce a well-rotted one-biennial manure or compost. If the soil is light, sandy, you need to add more compost, sod land (you can and a little clay).
In the pit it is necessary to straighten the roots - they should not bend upwards. The root neck or graft site is buried 5 cm below soil level. Along the edges of the earth tamped or squeeze well and wipe plentifully. A few days later, when the soil has settled a little, you need to pour more, just make sure that the rose is not too "settled". If the bush is still deep, carefully dig it up with a shovel and tamp the soil again.
Elena SMIRNOVA, curated by the Rosary Mv Lomonosov
Climbing roses love an open sunny place (the sun is at least 4 hours per day). Shade is not suitable for them, only some varieties can tolerate partial shade. But roses also often suffer from the midday heat - young leaves can get burned, and some petals of dark red, crimson and burgundy varieties burn out. Therefore, they are better to pritenyat or plant in such places that the sun was in the morning.
Between the bushes of roses should be free to circulate air. This is especially important for places with excessive moisture and low relief.
It is undesirable to plant roses near the walls of buildings when in the summer water flows from roofs onto them and in winter snow can fall.
Do not plant plants near trees with a strong root system that will inhibit them.
Since in adult rose bushes the roots go to a depth of more than 1 m, they are not suitable for areas with close groundwater storage.
- It is better to transplant such roses from September to the beginning of October in order to take root before winter. But it can be transplanted in the spring, as soon as the soil thaws, and the buds on the roses are not yet touched to grow.
Before transplanting rose shoots, a rambler (variety Yuttersen) is removed from the support; In late August, they pinch the tops, so that the branches had time to sleep. And all shoots older than two years are removed immediately after flowering. If they have already formed lashes, after landing they do not need to be tied back to the support (this is done in spring), they are loosely tied together and covered with the onset of stable cold.
Transplanting roses climing, for convenience, all long shoots can be shortened by a third or half. It is necessary to dig up a bush in a circle, retreating from its middle by two bayonets of a shovel, and as far as possible. Shake them off the ground, cut off the shaggy and torn ends of the roots with shears and plant them in a new place.
Elena SMIRNOVA
- Before the onset of the first frosts, they are removed from the supports, the leaves are removed, the untreated shoots are cut into a ring and the leaves are shortened. Then treated with a solution of ferrous sulfate and bind. At the same time they use only synthetic twine, which does not absorb moisture and does not mold. Bound shoots gradually sink to the soil. It is important to do this in cold weather, until the branches lose flexibility, otherwise the crust will crack or they break.
They bend slowly and in several steps with an interval of a couple of days, pulling it down with a cord, and firmly fastening it so that the bush does not vomit. It is better to do this together, on the one hand pressing down with a plywood shield, and on the other hand, delaying and securing the cord. Do not bring to the crunch! Shoots are placed not on the ground, but on boards or empty closed plastic bottles. Cover the climbing roses with the thickest nonwoven fabric in several layers and (or) lapnik. Do not use quickly rotting, moisture absorbing materials: hay, straw, moss.
Elena Groshaven, hereditary gardener
How am I cutting roses
Before cutting, the rose bush is treated from aphids and mushrooms with any fungicide. In the holes for the cuttings I pour ash, I pour it with azophos, diluted according to the instructions. Planted cuttings cover with plastic bottles. If it's hot, I'll shade a thin spunbond. About once every 10 days of planting, sprinkle with "Zircon" or Ekosilom. For the winter I mulch with peat soil and cover with spruce branches. In the spring, as the soil thaws, I process it again with stimulants. When buds begin to bloom on the cuttings, I water it with azofos, and a little later with nitrogen-containing (urea) fertilizers.
Transfer
When the young grows closely under the bottles, I transplant to a permanent place. Pit digging spacious. At the bottom I put humus, in the planting soil I mix ash and peat ground. I plant, process “Zircon” and cover with large cut bottles. After about a week's 2, when the bushes resume their growth, I take the bottles off, set the arcs and throw in the spanbond.
Food
At this time, I begin to feed with nitrogen (for growth) and potassium (for foliage and aging of the shoots). I give buds to bloom, but I replace nitrogen with phosphorus. In addition, I water organic extracts (phytotea) every 10 days, sometimes magnesium sulfate. Herbal tea is made from dandelions, nettle, celandine, calendula, arugula and spinach. I grind everything, pour water on the 2-3 of the day. Before watering the plants, the infusion is diluted with water 1: 5. After using it, re-pour the grass. This mixture wanders longer.
During the season, I treat the bushes from pests - once in 10 days I spray with “Zircon” or Ekosil. Since mid-September, I give only potassium. For the winter I process iron sulphate.
Galina KOVRIGA.
See also: We select supports for vines and climbing plants
TLADIANT IS A DOUBLE, OR RED CUCUMBER (THLADIANTHA DUBIA)
This is a perennial grassy vine that quickly decorates the unattractive corners of the garden, shelters the arbor from the sun, and luxuriously covers the arch or the drying out tree. It blooms in late June.
Its tubers are very winter-hardy, so that tladiant can be grown even on the balcony without warming the containers for the winter. In warmer climates, the vine forms edible, sweetish fruits, similar to cucumbers, but red in color.
Council
If you got the nodules too late, when the soil is already frozen, and it is not possible to plant, you can save them like any tuber plant. For example, put a little wet sawdust or peat in a perforated bag and bury the tubers in them.
Landing
Tladiant can be planted in the spring (as soon as the soil thaws), and in the fall. The place should be sunny or half-shaded, without stagnant water. Liana grows well in any soil that easily passes water. On the sandy, preferably at the landing site prikopat compost or mature humus. Organics can be replaced with complex fertilizer or use a nitroammofosku - 30-40 g square./m plantings.
It's important
Tladiant is aggressive. Tubers are formed all over long (up to 3 m) underground stolons and actively “roam” in the soil, because of which sprouts of vines may appear in the most unexpected place, but this is fixable. Enough landing place to enclose slate to a depth of 60 cm, leaving a side above the ground to 10 cm.
CHINA (LATHYRUS LATIFOLIUS)
It is a perennial herbaceous, 2-3 m tall. There are forms with light pink and, rarely, with white flowers. Two-tone colors are very good, the main color is light pink, almost white, and the border around the “sail” is bright, pink. There are no varieties of H. broadleaf yet. Flowering continues for about 2-s months, starting in July, but it can be extended until the end of September, if pruned inflorescences are pruned.
Reproduction
Chin is easy to propagate by seed. It is better to sow them before winter. For spring sowing, stratification is needed for a month at + 4- 5 hail. Shoots are usually not friendly.
In the first year of life, seedlings do not always bloom, they bloom profusely from the third year, when 10 and more powerful shoots grow.
Vegetative: by dividing the rhizome in early spring or by green cuttings in early summer.
The row on the trellis and in the columns is very effective: the veil is thick and bright.
Place in the garden
Liana excellent winters without shelter. It grows well in sunny places and in semi-shade. Only protection from winds is required.
TRIPTERYGIUM
I heard about a very interesting liana - trehkrilnik. Does it winter in the middle lane? And how can you grow it?
Anastasia Borisenko
- It is a woody vine with a length of 2- 5 m, T. Regel (T. regelii) can be grown in the middle lane. Its young shoots first grow upwards, then fall downwards in an arc-like manner, while counter-clockwise twisting around other shoots or support. The flowers bloom in mid-August, and bloom lasts two weeks.
Trehkrylnik prefers a protected half-shaded place, while it develops well in the sun. Demanding to moderate soil moisture, grows on neutral or slightly acid.
The best landing time is spring. Trinker necessarily need support - pergola, trellis, or at least a tree growing nearby.
Breeding and wintering
When rooting cuttings summer, you need to use stimulants, lignified roots take root better. They are cut in late February or early March, and rooted in a greenhouse in April. The roots of most cuttings develop in two months.
With spring sowing of seeds (in late May), seedlings appear after a month. In the first and second year, seedlings should be regularly watered. Bloom in 3-5 years. Adult plants are winter-hardy, but they must be covered up to 3 years. In severe winters, the tops of young shoots freeze, but during the season they recover due to growths of 50-60 cm. '
Alla KUKLINA
Lottery for seed
Seeds of leguminous plants, especially small ones, are tight due to the robust shell. But they survive germination 10 years.
There is a simple way to scarification. A piece of coarse emery paper fitted in a cylindrical container with a tight lid is inserted inside. Then pour the seeds, close the lid and shake for about 10 minutes.
The plant takes root on any soil, preferring non-acidic. Satisfied with one or two fertilizers complex fertilizer. The first one is given in spring, after the stems grow back, the second is given through 2-3 weeks. Watering is needed only in the heat. In winter, whips are cut to the ground. If you notice in the spring that the rhizome bulges out, you need to pour nutrient earth or compost.
Natalia PETRENKO, Cand. biol. of sciences
HUMM (Ordinary HUMULUS LUPULUS)
Hop grows on one place 20 and more years. Shoots spikes cling to the uneven surface of the support and twist it around. They are sensitive to the direction of growth: in the upright position they quickly climb on the support, in the horizontal - much slower.
Planting and care
Hop will be better in partial shade, but can grow in the sun. Stems growing in time to the support grow very fast (cm 20-25 per day). The plant develops better on rich fertile loam, moist but not overmoistened, with sandy, percolating water subsoil. The pit for planting depth 50-60 cm is better to cook in the fall. Up to half it is filled with manure, and on top is covered with earth. Planted seedlings or rooted cuttings in the spring. To grow a solid green wall, plants are planted at intervals of 1,5-2 m.
Hops will grow well and quickly if watered in the first 2-3 of the year in the heat and drought and fed with complex fertilizer in the spring.
Council
Hop roots easily spread beyond their allotted space, therefore it is desirable to limit them.
The fence entwined with hop already in the second half of June turns into a dense hedge, and the framework from metal pipes becomes an openwork gazebo, only the shoots close at its top.
Disadvantages. By the end of summer, the lower leaves turn yellow and fall, baring shoots. In addition, he can be attacked by aphids and mites.
Every year in October or November, the above-ground part dies completely, only rhizomes are preserved. Shoots pruning and spud the bushes for the winter ground.
A plant appears in early spring, as soon as the soil thaws and warms up. When frost -5 hail, shoots lose turgor and look faded, but eventually restored. In April, give the first fertilizer complex fertilizer (according to instructions) and loosen the soil.
Hops can be propagated by dividing the rhizome, root suckers, green cuttings. Seeds for this are rarely used. A piece of rhizome can be separated with a shovel, not digging a bush.
Manana Kastritsky, Cand. agricultural sciences
Female inflorescences (cones) are collected in a phase of greenish-yellow color.
Broth: 1 part of the cones pour 5 with parts of water, boil over low heat 10 min., Strain.
Drink on 1 Art. 3 times L per day for 10 min. before meals for chronic LM gastritis with secretory insufficiency.
Overdose can cause poisoning, which is expressed by depression of the nervous system, dermatitis, nausea, pain in the stomach. Outwardly, the decoction is used for compresses with bruises, rubbed with baldness, wash face for the prevention of wrinkles, wash their wounds and ulcers.
A sachet filled with cones, or a bath with broth is an excellent remedy for insomnia.
Ointment from the powder of the cones (on swine internal fat — 1: 4) treats festering wounds, poorly healing ulcers, is used as a painkiller for bruises, rheumatic pains and neuralgia, and also used to treat psoriasis, boils. The powder is added to the painkiller poultices. Tincture: 1 weight part of crushed cones infuse 7 days in 4 weight parts 40% alcohol or vodka, strain. Drink 5 drops on 1 st.l. water in the morning and evening before meals with neurasthenia, nervous agitation, hysteria, epilepsy, neuralgia.
Galina LAVRENOVA
ONE-YEAR LIANS
They are appreciated for unpretentiousness, rapid growth and a variety of colorful flowers and inflorescences. Even a beginner florist can grow them. The so-called “conventionally annual” (perennial in the southern regions) plants in the middle lane can be dug out in the fall and put into the room for wintering, keeping it until next season.
One-year lianas will become your magic wand, especially in young gardens. While perennials grow up, they will quickly decorate a fence, a gazebo, and a terrace. With their help, you can fill in the empty places in the flower beds, “paint” with bright flowers faded perennial vines. They are great for growing in pots and creating mobile trellis.
Suitable soil mixtures
For seedlings with further picking:
a mixture of leaf earth, humus and sand (2: 1: 1) or ready-sown soil. Seeds germinate well in a mixture of coco-soil and vermiculite (3: 1). It is sterile, does not contain fertilizers, is neutral in pH, very loose.
And vermiculite copes with the regulation of water balance.
For sowing and growing without picking: a mixture of garden and matured compost soil (1: 1). Soil from a greenhouse will also be suitable if last year organic matter, peat and ready substrate for seedlings were introduced.
The soil needs a well-drained. Before planting, the soil is prepared to a depth of 20-25 cm, they are double digged, organic matter and mineral fertilizers are applied.
Water the plants daily until they take root, and then - as needed, avoiding prolonged drying. It is better to water less often, but plentifully.
Install the supports.
Weed landing.
Feed once every 14 days (in containers — weekly). Usually use solutions of phosphorus-potassium fertilizer (15- 20 g / 10 l of water).
In due time remove faded blossoms.
ONE-YEAR AND CONDITIONALLY-ONE-YEAR LIANS IN THE MEDIUM STRIP
NAME | METHODS, CONDITIONS | FEATURES |
Azarina Laza (Maurandia) | Rassadny. Penumbra shading, sprinkling | It blooms in July. May be ampel. When grown in a container can be stored in the house for the next season. |
Sweet Peas (Lathy rus odoratus) | Rassadny and immediately to open ground. Sunny protected place | Low seed germination. Seedlings do not like transplanting. Antennae guide towards the pole. |
Dolichos purple (Lablab purpureus) | Rassadny (at the beginning of June) and seedless (in May). The place is warm and sunny, the soil is wet, neutral | Seeds need to be scarified. It blooms from July to frost. Can be used as food. Great Siderat |
Ipomoea (Ipomoea), purple, tricolor, square, moon-flowering, lobed | Rassadny (with further transfer to the soil with a lump of earth) and seedless. The soil is wet | Seeds are soaked for a day. Does not like transplant. Support is needed at the very beginning of the growth of shoots |
Cardiospermum halicacabum | Rassadny. Southern racial position. The soil is rich in humus. When water stagnant roots rot | It has healing properties, especially antiallergic. |
Cobea (Cobaeoideae) | Rassadny. Planted in June. The place is sunny, partial shade | Does not tolerate transplant. Growing very fast. In winter, the container plant can be stored in the basement, pruning shoots. May affect ticks |
Nasturtium or Capuchin (Tropaeolum) | Better immediately to open ground. The place is sunny | Does not like transplant. Drought resistant, watering moderate. Aphid is amazed. The fruits are used for food. It has healing properties. |
Thunbergia | Rassadny. The top of the seedlings at a height of 15 cm should be pinned. The soil is neutral, nutritious, well drained. Loves with the beginning of flowering abundant watering, sprinkling | The plant is affected by pests. For the winter, the bush in a pot can be saved at + 12-15 degrees, by cutting off the shoots on the 4 buds |
Fire Red Beans (Phaseolus) | Bezrassadny. The seeds are soaked for a day. The soil is needed humus, calcareous or with added ash before planting. With an excess of moisture, seeds can rot | It is necessary to shorten the tops of the height of the support. Fruits used in food |
Rough ekremokarpus, or vislopodnik (Eccremocarpus scaber) | Rassadny. Loose, wet, sandy clayey, high-fertile soil | It blooms from May to October. Grow better in pots. In the winter, you can clean up in a bright room with a temperature of + 5-10 deg., Shortened shoots |
Natalia Danilova
CLITORIA (CLITORIA TERNATEA)
I would like to know about growing clitoria. They say it is an unusually beautiful many-year-old vine.
Tatyana Ledyaeva
- The plant is thermophilic, and already at a temperature of + 10 hail, ceases to grow, and with further cooling it dies.
Grow it through seedlings on a warm window sill without drafts. Seeds before sowing soaked. Watering the seedlings plentifully, but without stagnant water. - Flowering begins in July.
Recommendations
The soil needs nourishing, with good structure. A mixture of turf land, peat, humus and sand (2: 2: 1: 1) will do.
Twice a month to make fertilizer for flowering plants or phosphorus-potassium, according to the instructions.
In the winter you can pick up the house, shortened the shoots. Then from April to June, inclusive, you can cut the cuttings for reproduction. They are well rooted in the light substrate.
AKEBIA FOUR (AKEBIA QUINATA)
For three years Akebiya Five has been growing. But I have never seen its flowers. In general, does it bloom with us or not? I take it off, hide it, I'm afraid of losing it, but is it able to “live” with us without shelter?
Marina Sholokhova
Fruiting akbebi difficult to achieve, but the flowering in the Moscow region - is quite real. Akebia five is able to survive the frost to -20 hail., Therefore in the middle lane in autumn this liana should be removed from the support and must be covered. And not only with a layer of opaulis, but also with a nonwoven covering material, and from above for reliability - with a layer of compost. If you open it early, flower buds will suffer and there will be no flowering. And a few more subtleties:
- - the root neck cannot be deepened;
- - Akebia is a natural insecticide, therefore it is not affected by pests, but with waterlogging it can suffer from rot and mold;
- - the tops must be pinched;
- - Akebia will bloom only in a sunny place.
During the flowering of akebi, the garden is filled with a chocolate and coffee aroma, which is why it is called a chocolate vine.
Yulika GRIGORYAN
7 FASHIONABLE VINES FOR GARDEN
Perennial creepers are plants that easily climb to heights. Do not use this feature in the design of the garden is considered a "crime". After all, with the help of climbing cultures, you can quickly decorate unsightly buildings, fences, decorate arbors, pergolas and trellises. Behind their foliage you will always hide from the scorching sun and prying eyes. Let's get acquainted with the most beautiful and fashionable vines!
Hortensia petiolate
Using aerial roots and suction cups, she can easily climb to a height of 25 m! If it does not find a vertical support, it spreads along the ground like a groundcover. In summer, its leaves are shiny, dark green, and in the fall they become bright yellow. The petrel hydrangea blooms in July with white, very fragrant flowers. The first two or three seasons develop slowly, but then the beauty quickly gains strength and reliably covers the surfaces provided to her. It can grow both in a sunny open place and in the shade, but does not tolerate drafts. Prefers acidic soil (pH 5,0). Young bushes need to be sheltered for the winter. Also, after spring planting, they require good and regular watering.
Moonseaver
There are two types: Canadian and Daurian. Both are suitable for growing in the middle lane.
The moon seed is blooming in June, but the flowers are inconspicuous, whitish-green. And the lashes actively branch and form dense thickets. “Feet” like partial shade, and the top of the crown should be open to the sun. The soil for the plant is fertile. Moonseed does not tolerate closely occurring groundwater, but not against regular watering. In order to preserve moisture, mulch the root zone with peat, humus or compost. He responds well to organic top dressing with herbal infusions.
Circason Manchu
It is considered the best landscaper of large vertical planes. The plant has large, spectacular leaves, and it looks great in green bosquets, on arches and hedges. In terms of flower decorativeness, it has practically no equal among garden crops. True, inflorescences and fruits are most often hidden in a dense crown. Kircasone begins to bloom from the age of five. It is better to plant it in semi-shady places with moist soil. The first years of life for the winter, the shoots of creepers are removed from the support, sprinkled with dry foliage and covered with lutrasil.
So far little-known plant. For landscaping now use A. quintuple. In just a year, she will hide under her foliage a vast plot about 3 m high. The liana has elegant dull purple shoots, and the leaves are arranged in 3-5 pieces on long stalks.
Fragrant purple flowers bloom in April-May. In warm regions, the culture produces fleshy edible fruits ripening in October and tasting slightly reminiscent of raspberries. Akebia grows on both acidic and alkaline soils. Young plants should be carefully protected from the winter cold. However, with age, their frost resistance increases. In this case, the culture can do without watering for a long time.
Calistegia fluffy
Blossoms in late June and early July with delicate pink "umbrellas." Faded flowers need to be removed, this increases the decorativeness and stimulates the formation of new buds. Calistegia is perhaps one of the highest vines among its kind (up to 4 m). There are specimens with simple and double flowers. This liana easily takes a place in the garden, drowning the neighbors. It prefers permeable soils, sunny places, fertilizing with mineral fertilizers. Adult specimens winter without additional shelter. In "youth" they require warming with dry leaves or peat. Calistegia is prone to grow over time, so pre-arrange a restriction, for example, drop it in a barrel without a bottom (dug to a depth of at least 40 cm).
Curly nightshade
His flowers are small - up to 5 cm in diameter. But there are a lot of them, and they decorate the plant from the second half of June until the fall. Nightshade grows both in the shade and in the open sun. Responsive to regular watering and top dressing, but will survive a short drought. Easily propagated by shoots, cuttings or seeds. True, it requires shelter for the winter. Often the tops of the stems do not have time to wood in the fall, so they freeze and die. But in the spring, young shoots will grow back. By the way, nightshade is harmoniously combined with conifers.
In middle latitudes it can be grown with obligatory shelter for the winter. If the liana likes the place and care, then soon it will delight with large flowers in the shape of a funnel. They are very effective, in various shades (from bright orange to raspberry),
bundled in xnumx pieces. It is advisable to plant a campsis on the southern slope, where there will be an abundance of heat and light. Liana develops better with regular top dressing (alternate organics with mineral water) and watering. In late autumn, remove the shoots from the supports and cover first with lapnik, and then with waterproof material.
Premulch the root zone with peat. A concrete or wooden pillar is ideal as a support for the campsis. Keep in mind that the plant wakes up for a long time after winter, it needs to ensure that the soil and air are well warmed up. Subject to agricultural technology, the liana begins to actively launch radical stepchildren. They are dug up and transplanted to another place.
See also: Akebia (photo) chocolate liana - planting and care
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- Perennial vines - photo and description, planting and care from A to Z
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For several years now, my site has been decorated with an amazing plant - dolichos. The culture is thermophilic, so I grow it through seedlings (I sow it in April, keep it in a greenhouse until mid-June). And when the threat of return frost passes, I plant it in open ground.
I choose a sunny place, protected from cold winds. Dolichos needs bright light and warmth - he grows poorly in the shade. I preliminarily add mineral fertilizers to the soil for planting (according to the instructions).
When the plants grow in height of 40-50 cm, I set long rods to them, connected at the top in the form of a cone - the curly stems reach a length of 3-5 m.They are attractive in themselves with a purple hue and large heart-shaped leaves, similar to beans. And when lilac "moths" appear on the dolichos in mid-July, it is a magnificent sight! The flowers themselves are small (2 cm in diameter), each one lives for about 3 days. But they are collected in rather long clusters-inflorescences, due to which the plants remain decorative for 3 weeks.
Caring for dolichos consists in loosening the soil and watering as needed - it does not tolerate waterlogging. I have not yet encountered pests and diseases on the plant. With the help of this herbaceous vine, you can decorate fences, gazebos, decorate arches and even trunks of dead trees.
BTW
In August, no dolichos pods are formed - they are considered edible, as well as ripening beans - "beans", and Indian cuisine is especially popular.
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I want to plant large-leaved Kirkazon in my garden. Is it difficult to grow this plant from seeds?
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In order for the seeds of large-leaved Kirkazone (Aristolochia macrophylla) to germinate successfully, they need to be stratified - placed in cold conditions in order to bring them out of dormancy. To do this, plant seeds can be mixed with wet sand and sent to the refrigerator shelf, where the temperature is kept at 3-5 °. The period of stratification of Kirkazon seeds is approximately 6-7 weeks.
Then you can sow in fertile, preferably light loamy soil. The seeding depth is 2-3 cm. Germination will have to wait about 2 months.
You can sow Kirkazon seeds directly into open ground. This should be done in late autumn, during the winter the seeds stratify, and in late May - early June you will see the first shoots.
In the first years, the growth of the vines will be insignificant, since all the forces of the plant will go to the development of the root system. After 2-3 years, you will be able to transplant the matured seedlings to a permanent place.
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On the advice of a neighbor, I dropped off a dolichos near the house along the fence made of rabitsa. Dense green growth, delicate lilac flowers and shiny pods have transformed my site! In mid-latitudes, the thermophilic climbing liana is best grown through seedlings (after scarification, seeds are sown in containers at the end of February, and seedlings are planted in open ground in May, when the threat of spring frosts has passed). I decided to take a chance and in mid-May I sowed the beans in open ground in a warm, sunny place protected from the winds. When a cold snap was predicted, she covered the landing at night with a spunbond. The seedlings germinated for a long time, at first they developed slowly.
I saw the first flowers only in August (usually dolichos bloom in mid-July).
But the plant turned out to be not so capricious in leaving. Often, but little by little, I watered the liana, regularly loosened and weeded the soil around, fed it with a mineral complex with a high phosphorus content 1-2 times a month (according to the instructions). In order for lateral processes to appear, I periodically pinched the tops of the dolichos.
The plant is resistant to diseases, but sometimes caterpillars or aphids settle on the shoots and leaves. Treatment with any insecticide will save from pests (according to the instructions).
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I’ll tell you how I prepare my creepers for winter.
At clematis, blooming in spring and forming buds on last year's shoots, in October I cut only the topmost part of faded shoots. I remove broken and damaged parts. I add loose compost to the plants. I do not hide these clematis in warm winters. The princes, the closest relatives of the Clematis, also winter without shelter.
I cut the plants blooming on the shoots of the current year briefly (it is possible up to 15 cm above the ground) and pour compost to the place of their growth.
Clematis that bloom on last year's shoots, pruned at a height of about 120 cm from the ground. I pour fresh soil (compost) to the base. I shoot the shoots myself from the supports and lay them on the boards.
I always cover clematis as soon as the air temperature drops to -3 ... -5 degrees., Covering the plants with sawdust mixed with shavings. But once after this, a sharp cooling gave way to a lingering wet autumn - heavy rains alternated with wet snow. To protect the plants, I laid the boards on top of the shavings. So I came to an air-dry shelter. The simplest option is a frame of boards, on which I lay plywood or a piece of roofing material on top.
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Tell me how to prepare a kobe for the cold?
Can she winter in the garden?
Tamara
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Liana is unlikely to survive the cold in the garden if she is not prepared in advance for such stress. After all, this plant feels uncomfortable even at a temperature of 10 degrees of heat. That is why flower growers sow kobe every year and grow as an annual.
However, you can still help the plant survive the winter by making the kobe come to life in the garden in the spring. What needs to be done?
When autumn comes, the kobe must be cut off, leaving stems 10 cm high from the ground. Then the root of the plant is dug up, moved to a cellar or basement with a temperature of at least 10 degrees Celsius and placed in a container with the ground. Since the time of “hibernation” comes for the plant, it does not need light. The main thing is to monitor the temperature and humidity of the air in the room - it should not be dry.
With the onset of spring, the plant is taken out of the basement and relocated to a warm and bright room. This will help him wake up faster after hibernation. And as soon as young shoots appear, the kobe is looked after, as usual.
By the way, at this time it can be propagated by taking cuttings of uterine shoots from young shoots, which are immediately placed in a container with rich soil. In order for root sections to take root faster, they are covered with foil, and shelters are removed every day for ventilation and watering. And when it becomes warm outside, seedlings are planted in open ground.
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This year a very beautiful climbing plant appeared in my garden. I purchased seeds called dolichos lablab. But I was told that these are hyacinth beans. Please help me figure it out.
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- This is a rare curly annual in our gardens, dolichos lablab (Dolichos lablab) from the family Bean (Moth). It has many popular names: lobia, Egyptian (hyacinth) beans, coconut and even curly lilacs. Sometimes grows to 2,5 m tall. One of the conditions for good growth is support. Unusual “walls” are obtained from dolichos, thick and green all season with a minimum of care. It is good for decorating balconies, landscaping farm buildings, per-goal, arbors, etc.
These plants bloom with bright garlands, remotely resembling beans. Large flowers are collected in long erect inflorescences (sometimes up to 40 cm) of racemose shape. The aroma of flowers is delicate, but rather weak, is captured only at a short distance. Their color can be white, pink, purple, violet-purple. Not only inflorescences are decorative, but also leaves, which seem to come to life when the wind blows, which makes Dolichik-soo exotic and spectacular. Hyacinth beans bloom from June to September, depending on the sowing date. There are two peaks of decorativeness: flowering and fruiting. Bright large beans are attractive no less than flowers.
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Provide it with cultivated, light soils with good drainage. If you have a site with heavy, cold clay soil, it is best to grow hyacinth beans in pots.
A well-lit place without shading (even temporary) is suitable for the plant. It does not withstand frost and does not respond well to sudden daily temperature drops.
He does not need frequent watering. Mandatory regular weeding is needed, otherwise dolichos quickly begins to braid weeds with its antennae and curl in the opposite direction
Sowing seedlings To accelerate flowering and rapid growth, it is grown in seedlings. Seeds are sown in pots at the end of March-April, and seedlings are planted in open ground when the threat of frost passes, at a distance of at least 50 cm from each other. It is better to immediately install pots next to the support, along which dolichos will continue to curl.
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Florists are often asked to suggest ideas on how a climbing plant can decorate a fence, a gazebo, an arch. Pay attention to the round-leaved pliers (or Krasnopu-zyrnik) - an unusually beautiful and original perennial vine.
The plant looks especially impressive in the fall due to bright yellow, orange large dense leaves and shiny fruits that resemble bubbles of bright red color. Seeds ripen in September. It is better to sow them in October (so they will undergo natural stratification in the soil). Plants are transplanted to a permanent place at the age of four.
The wood pliers are unpretentious, can grow on a variety of soils. Shade tolerant, but prefers good lighting. Just do not plant it near the trees: a liana quickly wraps around the trunk and, deeply crashing into it with its shoots, often destroys plants.
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Honeysuckle honeysuckle has become the most beautiful plant on my site. In the landing pit (40 × 40 cm) on the southern side of the site, drainage of broken brick and small stones was poured to the bottom. Almost to the top, I filled it with a mixture of soil with humus (1,5-2 buckets) and sand (1 bucket), adding 50 g of urea and simple superphosphate, 200 g of wood ash, 100 g of dolomite flour (my land is acidic).
The wet root ball of the seedling was lowered 10 cm below the soil level. Escape half laid horizontally, and the top (shortening it on one kidney) raised and tied to a peg. The land around the bush covered sawdust. In the first year, care consisted in weeding, irrigation, loosening the soil.
Lyudmila LASHUK