Growing red currants - planting and care (Moscow region)
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RED CURRANT IN THE MOSCOW - LANDING AND CARE
Currently, there are more 190 types of currant fruit and decorative. I did not grow decorative plants, but I saw absolutely amazing bushes in the amateur gardens with unusual leaf color: from bright red to orange and purple, changing during the season. I talked about the black currant growing in my area in the last issue. But I love the red more. About her today.
THE MOST HEALING WINE - RED-SMOSURODINE
In Europe, it is called color. And this is not accidental, since this type includes not only red, but also pink (all shades), maroon, yellow and white currants.
In Russia, red currants were grown in monastery gardens as early as the 9th century. It was from it that the famous monastery red wine was prepared, the recipe of which is carefully guarded until now. Honey and more 20 medicinal plants are added to it. It has unique healing properties, curing many terrible ailments, including leukemia. This currant wine is valued by monks above the grape!
Unfortunately, in the amateur gardens red currants can be found less often than black ones. And in vain. It enters fructification faster (on the 2-3 year), quickly increases yields, can actively bear fruit in one place for at least 25 years.
It tolerates winter frosts, summer drought and increased acidity of the soil, is more resistant to pests and diseases and is absolutely unpretentious. That is why gardeners often just forget about it - they rarely water, do not fertilize and do not thin out. Naturally, this leads to lower yields. Berries become small and not so tasty. With good care, red (pink and white) currants will annually please you with high yields (up to 15 kg from one bush).
See also: Red currant - planting and care, feeding and pest control (Moscow)
Red currants are not afraid of either cold or acidity
Redcurrant is a complex hybrid obtained as a result of centuries-old crosses. Hence, such a palette of colors of her berries - white, cream, yellow, pink, red, burgundy.
The berries in red currant are smaller than those of black (on average 0,6-1 cm in diameter). They are slightly sour and not so tart. But the nutrients and vitamins they contain even more. For example, pectins, which contribute to the excretion of salts of heavy metals and cholesterol. Also present in them are vitamin P, fortifying the walls of blood vessels, and iron salts, which increase hemoglobin in the blood.
Red currant is more cold-resistant and hardy than black. It grows well and bears fruit in the northern regions of our country - in the Arkhangelsk and Murmansk regions, in the Komi Republic and even in Yakutia and Chukotka. But in the southern regions, it does not take root. There, for her, the air is too dry and not enough moisture.
Red currant is absolutely undemanding to soils. It can grow even on medium acid (pH 5,5). However, the lighting for it is much more important than for black. Plant it only on a sunny plot. Here her berries will be brightly colored, large, sweet. And in the shade the red currant may not bear fruit at all.
This species is prone to rapid thickening, therefore forming is very important for it. Shrubs pruned each spring, cutting out old, broken and growing branches inside. As a rule, they are left no more than 20: three 1-4-year-olds and four 5-6-year-olds (the most productive) each.
MY STICKS IN CULTIVATION OF RED CURRENT IN MOSCOW REGION
1. Red currant is even worse than black, tolerates minimal salinization of the soil. Therefore, I never bring concentrated mineral complexes or a saturated slurry solution under it. Their excess can cause illness or even the death of plants. The reason for salinization can be soapy water, so I put the red currant away from the sink and never wash it next to it.
Young plants are placed at a distance 1,5-1,8 m from each other.
2. The diameter of the planting pits is 40-50 cm, the depth is 50 cm. Since I have heavy and clay soils, I fill the pits with specially prepared planting soil, which I make up from the upper fertile layer, compost and sand in equal proportions. In each pit I add 100 g of superphosphate, 50 g of potassium sulfate and a liter jar of wood ash. Bushes must be dug into the ground by 7-8 cm, so that new shoots form from the buds that have awakened underground. This will lead to fast and powerful bush growth.
3. I water the seedlings well (2 watering cans for one plant). Then I cut all the twigs to a height of 25 cm (each) from the surface of the earth. This will help plants to settle down faster in a new place.
4. In the spring, as soon as the snow melts, I water the currant bushes with urea solution, and in early May I spread natural organic fertilizer in tree trunks, which I prepare from fresh leaves, grass or rotted manure without adding household and food waste (0,5 buckets for each bush) and shallow loosen.
5. In the autumn I give potassium and phosphorus nutrition to the plants: 100 g of superphosphate and 50 g of potassium sulphate under each bush under the autumn digging of tree trunks.
Red currant is sick less than black. However, in some years and on it may appear such fungal diseases as powdery mildew, anthracnose and terry. For their prevention, twice (on the green cone and after harvesting) I spray 1 bushes with Bordeaux liquid.
With proper care, pests on red currants are unlikely to appear. However, it can also be affected by aphids, currant glass cups, currant bud moth, and shoots galloping. As a preventive measure, after blooming the leaves, I spray the bushes with a bioinsecticide solution. If there are many pests on the bushes, I recommend after harvesting to spray all the plants with a stronger solution of the drug, for example, on the basis of karbofos, in accordance with the dosage indicated on the package.
8. Currants are quite drought-resistant, especially red, so I water the bushes 2-3 once a month. In the heat of watering increase. After harvesting I spend water recharge irrigation at the rate of 4 watering cans for each bush.
I don’t cover bushes for winter, as this culture is very winter-hardy.
See also: Red currant - variety (photo), planting and care
VARIETY OF THE RED CURRENT IN MY PLOT IN THE MOSCOW REGION
Of the varieties that I tested, I liked the most: red - Sugar, Natalie, Krasnaya Andreichenko, Beloved; pink - Rossoshanskaya, Dutch pink; white - Yuterborg, Smolyaninovskaya.
Sugar. Domestic variety of early ripening. The berries are not large, but on a floral bunch they form up to 18 pieces, red, very sweet with a slight sourness. Perfectly are suitable for baby and dietary food, and also for preparation of homemade wine. The variety has a high winter hardiness and disease resistance.
Natalie. Domestic, very productive variety (up to 12 kg from a bush), average maturity. The berries are bright red, very tender sweet-sour taste, mass 0,6 g. The variety is winter-hardy, resistant to fungal diseases. The berries have the highest content of iron salts. It is recommended for fresh consumption for people with low hemoglobin.
Red Andreichenko. One of the most large-fruited varieties (berries weighing up to 1,2 g). The berries are bright red, sweet (they have a high sugar content) with a slight sourness. Mature in average time. Differs weak flaking. Productivity is high (up to 10 kg from a bush). Have increased winter hardiness and disease resistance. Early fruiting (on 2-3-th year). From the berries of this variety produces a great wine.
Unattractive. Variety of Belarusian breeding, medium ripening. The berries are bright red, large (up to 0,8 g), sweet-sour taste, characterized by a high content of pectins. Variety winter hardy, disease resistant.
Rossoshanskaya. This is the most fruitful (up to 15 kg from a bush) and large-fruited (weight more than 1 g) domestic variety with pink, tender, sweet berries. Ripens in late terms. It requires the installation of a mandatory square rack support around the plant so that the branches under the weight of the berries do not lie on the ground and do not break off. Differs in high frost resistance and resistance to mushroom diseases. Good for making homemade rose wine.
Dutch pink. High-yielding variety of Dutch breeding. The berries are pink, small (up to 0,5 g), but sweet, without acid. Mature in average time. Winter hardiness is good. Disease resistance is average. Berries are very good for fresh consumption.
Yuterborgskaya. The variety comes from Western Europe. Differs in early terms of fructification and high productivity (to 13 kg from a bush). The brushes are long, they form up to 20 large white (almost transparent) berries weighing up to 1 g. Berries are sweet and sour, very delicate in taste. Winter hardiness and disease resistance are average. Installation of rack supports around the bush is necessary to maintain the branches with berries.
Smolyaninovskaya. Domestic high-yield varieties of medium ripening with large cream-white berries weighing up to 0,8 g. Berries are delicate, sweet, good for fresh consumption. Perfect for making white homemade wine. The variety is hardy and disease resistant.
I have questions for some particularly zealous summer residents who do not feed bread with bread, but let me drive some wild animals not envisaged by their wishes out of the site. But in nature, everything is interconnected. Say, moles left me - a bear immediately appeared, ants disappeared - for some reason my hens too, and the wasps that appeared, although they began to spoil some fruits on the berries, but the productivity of many other crops jumped. Say that everything is not so obvious here? Well, in any case, there is something to ponder.
Now I want to tell you how to get a significant harvest of currants. It is clear that agricultural technology must be competent: both the soil must be fertilized and cultivated, and mulch should be used, and the condition of the plant itself should be closely monitored. But here we must immediately understand that one such bush in the garden is an orphan. And there is no use from him: he will blossom well (his head may spin from the aroma), and he will not give berries.
Currants should be planted immediately in a batch, and seedlings should not be placed too far from each other so that they cross-pollinated. But too
they can’t be planted too close, otherwise they will “push”, the bushes will not be sufficiently ventilated and illuminated by the sun. And hence the drop in productivity, and all sorts of diseases.
It would seem a simple science, but in fact it is often forgotten. For example, when I decided to renew my currant collection, I planted bushes on the most “species points” so that they would give berries and a garden (currants are also decorative). Of course, they took root well, rose and began to bear fruit. I just began to notice that every year there are less and fewer berries on them, and the bushes began to dry out slowly.
And once I seemed to wake up: why, they just miss being alone! And I immediately remembered how my old currant grew - in one line along the fence. Moreover, the bushes were of various varieties, and the berries were given, as agreed, in a huge amount. I even collected only large ones, and left the trifle to the birds. The soil was loose under the bushes, good, because I constantly brought in chicken manure there at the end of the summer. And she regularly pruned the currant itself: in spring she cut branches that were broken off under the weight of snow and beaten by frost, and in late autumn - old and drying out. But then it so happened that my plot disappeared.
But what about the new one, which began to lose weight? There, at the bushes, I bent the strongest lower branches in the summer to the ground, carefully fixed them with pieces of brick and dug them. And the next year I received good cuttings, which I separated from the mother plants and planted in one line at a distance of 2 m from each other, covering for the first time with glass jars. And now again I live in a currant paradise!
So, my dear summer residents, look for different varieties and plant them wisely. Only then will this wonderful berry delight you with a harvest.
Svetlana Moscow Region
RED CURRANT CARE SECRET - VIDEO
© Author: O. IVANOVA, an orchard-experimenter, Moscow Region
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