Growing dried flowers: how to cut, name and care
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DRY FLOWERS - PLACE IN GARDEN DESIGN AND CARE
Ichrizum, Helipterum, Kermek, Rodanthe, Xerantemum - these names may not even be familiar to some gardeners. And that’s all - dried flowersthat are good in the garden and in the winter bouquet
PREPARATIONS IN WINTER
In order for dried flowers to serve you as long as possible, it is important to collect and dry them correctly. It is best to cut the inflorescences in dry weather and not in the early morning, better in the afternoon (otherwise the plant may rot) and send for drying immediately after harvest.
It is necessary to cut, of course, together with the stem (form small bunches). And hang it upside down in a warm, dry room. The main condition is that the sun rays should not fall on the cut flowers during drying, otherwise the plant may lose its color (simply speaking, it fades).
GARDEN DESIGN
Bright, unusual annual dried flowers - garden decoration. They will be appropriate in complex mixborders, and in group plantings. These are self-sufficient plants, moreover, they are decorative almost the entire season, so they can be safely planted separately. They will be good without neighbors.
THE MOST PLACE OF DRY-COLORS, FINALLY THE SAME, IN THE WINTER BOUQUET, WHICH WILL BE DECORATIVE VERY LONG
Yes, and with perennial plants, which can also be used as dried flowers, also should not be problems. Mixborders, group and single planting, curbs, even rockeries - these plants will fit perfectly in almost any weed of your garden. The main thing - do not forget about the environmental needs of each plant. Sometimes, as in the case of narrow-leaved lavender (not the simplest crop), this can be very, very important.
See also: The most beautiful flowers of dried flowers
CARE FEATURES
If we talk about real dried flowers, then basically they are quite unpretentious in their care. Therefore, even for a novice grower, it will not be difficult to grow these plants. Solar plots, as well as moderately moist (without water stagnation) soil - this is what most dried flowers need.
Another thing - perennials, here each plant has its own history. Therefore, when planting a particular culture, look in advance at how to create the most comfortable conditions for it.
A number of plants (which from a botanical point of view can hardly be called dried flowers) can also be used to create dry bouquets. For example - astilbe or hydrangea: their inflorescences remain decorative after flowering. What about cereals? The fluffy panicles of Miscanthus look amazing even without the support of other plants.
ONE-YEAR AND LONG-TERM DRY-FLOWERS
It was always believed that the definition of dried flowers meant just annuals. They are distinguished even in a separate group - true dried flowers, or immortals. But in fact, a number of perennials, such as lavender, gypsophila paniculate or anafalis, can also be used as dried flowers.
10 THE MOST BEAUTIFUL FLOWERS OF DRY FLOWERS
Dried flowers (immortelle, immortelle) They got their name because of the special structure of the flowers. Dry membranous bracts, or wrapper leaves, allow them to maintain their “lively” appearance even in a dried state. Due to this feature, they were called immortals, or, as they said in past centuries, immortel, which in Latin means "immortality."
Perhaps the most famous "immortal" is helihrizum (immortelle, cmin). It has 500 species, but there are about 30 in the culture. All of them are very beautiful and in demand in cut and dry bouquets. Seeds are sown in March, and seedlings are planted in the ground in May. In July, the plants bloom. Some varieties, especially undersized, curbs, can be sown directly into the ground on May 5-10. After emergence, they are thinned out at a distance of 10-15 cm. So it is easier to grow, although sowing in open ground leads to late flowering - in the second half of August.
Helichrysum is photophilous, but tolerates shading, is cold-resistant, drought-resistant. Prefers nutritious loose soil.
To get a lot of good quality cuts, once in 2 weeks feed the plants with complex fertilizer or mullein infusion and water in hot weather so that the inflorescences do not fade. Pinch the central shoot of tall varieties above the 5-6-m leaf. Undersized do not need to pinch.
Cut flowers for drying at the moment when the lower 3-4 of a number of leaflets of the wrapper have already moved away from the bud, and the inner ones still tightly close the center of the inflorescence. So the dried inflorescence looks the most attractive. If a disk of tubular flowers has already appeared at the inflorescences on the bush, then it is better to leave them on the seeds or remove, since when drying the leaves of the wrapper will bend strongly to the stem and the inflorescence will become ugly.
Elegant Helipterum (Acroclinum) looks like a camomile with a yellow or brown center and white, pink, red sharp petals. Seeds are sown at the end of the first decade of May immediately into the soil or seedlings in mid-April, however, the transplantation of the acroclinum is difficult to tolerate. To obtain a good cut, top dressing and watering in dry weather are necessary.
For drying, the flowers are cut in the phase of the beginning of flowering, from the moment when the inflorescence is just beginning to open, and within 1-2 days after its blooming. Later, it makes no sense to cut, it is better to leave it for seeds.
"Bridal bouquet" ammobium we grow as an annual. It forms a highly branched bush up to 80 cm high with many small (up to 1,5 cm) inflorescences with a yellow center and white petals. At the end of March, small seeds are sown for seedlings, and in the second half of May they are planted in soil at a distance of 30 cm from each other.
Cutting phase can be selected at your discretion. If you like pure white flowers, you need to cut the shoots when the yellow center just begins to appear on the first inflorescence. If you want the inflorescences to be larger and with yellow centers, then you need to cut them off later, when a disk of yellow tubular flowers appears on the 4-5 inflorescences. But it is not worth delaying too much with the cut, otherwise the decorative effect will be lost.
Anafalis reaches a height of 40 cm. Its leaves are pubescent and appear silvery, and flower-like baskets with a diameter of only 6-8 mm are collected in inflorescences-shields. Dusty seeds are sown from late March to May, not sprinkled with soil, and always covered with glass, often sprayed. It is easier to propagate the plants by dividing the bush in late April or in August-September. Dig the uterine bush, divide it and immediately drop the delenki into a permanent place, in temporary containers or dig them into the soil.
The plants are perennial, therefore, periodically need replanting and updating.
Shoots for drying anaphalis cut off at a time when more than half of the inflorescences in the scutellum have opened.
Inflorescences of homfrena noticeably resemble inflorescences of clover. They are spherical or slightly elongated. The flowers in the inflorescence are very small, violet, and the bracts covering them are shiny, filmy, brightly colored in white, pink, raspberry, red, and violet.
Gomfren - annual 15–45 cm high. It is extremely photophilous. Loves light soil. And fertilizers must be applied carefully, with an excess of organics it may not bloom.
Seeds are sown in early April, and seedlings are transplanted into the ground in early June to get away from frost. Unfortunately, good flowering in homfrena in the middle lane can be seen not every year - it will not be in the cold rainy summer. Therefore, many grow this capricious flower in a greenhouse.
For drying, the shoots are cut off during the period when the inflorescences reach their maximum size, but the lower scales do not yet begin to turn brown.
Kermek (statice, limonium) is probably familiar to everyone. Web-shaped funnel-shaped cups painted in very bright colors and collected in inflorescences give decorativeness to the plant. In the center of each cup is a small corolla made of delicate white, purple, pink, yellow, red petals that quickly fade, turn inward and become invisible. Calyx, on the contrary, remain on inflorescences for a very long time, they retain their color well.
У kermekov many beautiful species and even more varieties. There are plenty to choose from. Seeds are sown from late February to late March. Seedlings are planted on a permanent place in the second half of May at a distance of 30-40 cm from each other.
Statice during the flowering period attracts many butterflies, you can create beautiful rabatki and flower beds. Peduncles for drying are cut in full dissolution, since the buds do not open when dried. It is reasonable to cut off not fully opened inflorescences only before the rain, since the membranous funnels of the cups are damaged by raindrops and lose their decorative effect.
Lovely sunny inflorescence balls will always cheer you up craspedia. The plant forms a rosette of cut silver-green leaves, resembling a leaf rosette in a statice. Straight sturdy flower stalks up to 70 cm high with spherical bright yellow inflorescences at the end with a diameter of 2-3 cm grow from the center of the outlet. After drying, the flower stalks become very strong and not damaged, even if they are lightly hit on a hard surface. For this, craspedia is also called "drumsticks."
Seeds are sown in February, and transplanted into open ground in mid-May at a distance of 25-30 cm from each other.
Craspedia - a short day plant, therefore, even with early sowing, flowering begins only in the second half of August. And mass flowering occurs in September, so in the case of early autumn, cuts are few. To solve the problem, craspedia can be grown in a greenhouse.
Inflorescences are cut in full dissolution.
Xerantemum (dried flower) found in abundance in the steppe part of Russia. The endless Don azure steppe, praised in Sholokhov’s novels, owes its color to this particular plant. On a branchy stem 40-60 cm high, inflorescences are baskets with a diameter of 1,5-2 cm. Decorative elements give them petal-like wrappers located in several rows. External ones are small, gray, internal ones are large, white, pink, lilac or purple. "Middle" consists of small tubular flowers.
Seeds are sown in late April - early May in the ground in a permanent place, because the Xerantemum transplant does not like. Thick seedlings thin out, leaving between 10-15 cm plants.
For drying, the inflorescences are cut in the phase of incomplete dissolution. To give dry inflorescences a brighter color before drying, they can be dipped in a weak hydrochloric acid solution (1: 12) on 2-3 s, then gently shake and dry in the usual way, hanging in a dry, shaded place.
Lonas annual a bit like tansy. This is a low (30-40 cm) bushy plant, each shoot of which ends with a shield of yellow inflorescences up to 5 cm in diameter. It is sown at the end of March, seedlings are planted in the ground in mid-May at a distance of 20 cm from each other.
Inflorescences cut in dry weather in the phase of complete dissolution can be dried like other dried flowers. In this case, the foliage must be removed.
Amaranth usually not referred to as dried flowers, however, due to the rigid membranous leaves in the inflorescence and the ability not to change its appearance after drying, this plant can be called an immortelle. By the way, like celosia from the amaranth family.
Seeds are sown at the end of April, and planted in the ground only at the beginning of June in order to avoid return frosts that amaranth will not survive.
For drying, the plant is cut whole or the desired part, leaves are removed and suspended in a dry, dark room. Amaranth dries for a long time, and you need to make sure that mold does not appear.
DRYING DRY FLOWERS METHODS
The main drying technique is air, using glycerol, pressing and drying using hygroscopic substances.
In the first case, you need to suspend the plants by tying them in bunches, head down in a dry room without access to sunlight. The temperature does not matter (possible from 5 ° to 30 °), the duration of drying only depends on it. But some plants (kermek, gypsophila) are best dried by placing in a vase with water (a little, 5-7 cm). So the flowers dry slowly, their petals do not deform, and many buds manage to open. After the flowers have dried, the branches are removed from the vase and cut off the rotted part of the stem.
Using glycerin, dried tree branches with fruits and leaves.
Any plants are dried under the press, but in this case they are hardly suitable for a bouquet, but they are ideal for creating pictures of dried flowers.
Some plants (bells, aquilegia, lilies of the valley and many others) are deformed during normal drying and do not preserve the beautiful shape of the flowers, in this case sand, perlite, silica gel, cotton wool are used.
And one more interesting way for the hostesses to note: sugaring. Non-bitter and non-toxic flowers (for example, apple trees, pears, roses, violets, chrysanthemums, gladiolus, pansies, etc.) are candied with gum arabic or egg white. These flowers can decorate pastries and surprise guests.
© Author: I. FATEYEVA, florist
SOWING DRIED FLOWERS – SPRING IS SOON!
This means that already in February we will sow dried flower seeds. There are a lot of them, not just the 3-4 types that everyone hears about. But they all have one quality in common – beauty. It is especially captivating in winter: a bouquet of dried flowers is a colorful reminder of the bygone summer
In order for summer to return, we need to hurry up spring - get the seeds. Sort and arrange according to sowing dates. And put closer those that need to be sown at the end of winter.
THE MOST LOOSE
Statice (notched kermek) and some other types of kermek have the longest period from sowing to flowering. And also Craspedia globular. They grow slowly and leisurely, but their seeds are the most impatient - they are ready for sowing for seedlings in the second half of February. If you are late, you won’t get full flowering.
WILL WAIT FOR SPRING
In the second half of March, helichrysum, ammobium, anafalis, gomphrena, and perennial gypsophila are sown for seedlings.
In the second half of April, the turn of heat-loving and fast-growing annuals comes: amaranth, acroclinum, celosia. Some annuals (acroclinum, xeranthemum, rodanthe, helichrysum, amaranth) can be cultivated without seedlings, sowing in open ground in the first ten days of May. But they will bloom much later. So, if possible, sow them early - for seedlings.
WHAT IS THE CARE?
The technique of sowing dried flower seeds for seedlings is no different. Sow in ordinary boxes, in standard soil for flower seedlings, sprinkled with a layer of soil equal to 3 times the height of the seed. Cover with paper or glass and periodically sprinkle with water, keeping the soil moderately moist.
When seedlings appear, the cover is removed, and when they open, 2-3 true leaves are planted in pots or cassettes with a cell diameter of 5 to 8 cm, depending on the size of the plants.
The seedlings are watered when the soil dries out, and once a week it is advisable to feed them with a solution of complex mineral fertilizer (according to the instructions).
WHEN TO BE FREE?
Seedlings of ammobium, helipterum, helichrysum, statice and other cold-resistant species are planted in open ground in the second ten days of May.
More heat-loving amaranths, celosias, and gomphrenas will move into the flower garden after June 5.
Seedlings of perennials, which were sown at the beginning of summer, are planted in the ground in late August - early September.
A LITTLE ATTENTION
It is advisable to select bright, sunny places for dried flowers; only anafalis tolerates partial shade well.
Maintenance is not very difficult - timely weeding and loosening of the soil are needed. Watering is required only in the first period after planting the seedlings, when they take root. And even during severe drought.
Different purposes - different portions
There is almost no need to feed dried flowers planted to decorate a flower garden. For the entire season - only 1-2 times with complex fertilizers.
Species planted for cutting require more nutrients and are fed every two weeks. Also with complex mineral fertilizers (15-20 g per 10 liters of water).
TABLE 1. SOWING SEEDS FOR SEEDLINGS | |
TERMS | SEEDING SEEDS FOR SEDIMENTATION |
Second half of March | Helichrysum, ammobium, anafalis, gomphrena, perennial gypsophila |
Second half of April | Amaranth, acroclinum, celosia |
TABLE 2. PLANTING SEEDLINGS IN THE GROUND | |
TERMS | PLANTING SEEDLINGS IN THE GROUND |
Second ten days of May
First ten days of June |
Ammobium, helilterum, helichrysum, statice Amaranth, celosia, gomphrena |
© Author: Elena Kolesnikova, Ph.D., flower collector, author of books on floriculture
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Gomfren in the middle lane is grown in pots and open field. Depending on the species, the stems of the plant are erect (in Homphren Haage and spherical) or creeping (scattered Homphrens). Bushes bloom in the garden from the beginning of summer (when grown in seedlings) and before the onset of frost.
Growing conditions
For normal development, gomphrens choose areas that are protected from strong and cold winds. A sunny place and partial shade are suitable for her. Its flowers become especially bright and large when the direct sun and shade alternate.
On a flower bed and an open balcony, the plant is comfortable at + 15-20 degrees, and above. It does not tolerate frost. By the way, in winter, when growing in a room, a pot with it must be placed on a more illuminated window, and on a heated loggia - where the temperature is not lower than +10 degrees.
In the garden I water gomfrena only in the heat. Despite its tropical origin, it is drought-resistant, normally tolerates short-term drying out of the soil. Potted specimens love abundant, but moderate moisture (excess provokes root rot) 2-3 times a week. No need for spraying.
If the flower was originally planted in infertile soil, it needs to be fed. During active growth, I apply a complex mineral fertilizer every two weeks, and during budding I use special ones in liquid form - for flowering ones (according to the instructions). With the onset of a cold snap, I feed them once a month. I do not give organic matter at all, since the plant responds poorly to it and may not bloom.
Gomphrene is very resistant and rarely affected by diseases and pests. Dried shoots with inflorescences are used as dried flowers in a winter bouquet and to create phytocompositions.
If it's a cold and very rainy summer, this heat-loving plant may not bloom at all in the garden. Therefore, it can be transplanted into a pot and transferred to a greenhouse, where numerous magnificent inflorescences are formed.
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A couple of years ago, they planted Tatar goniolimon - and I was captivated by this unusual flower, which is ideal for dry bouquets. The plant blooms in the second year after sowing the seeds. Flowering (June-July) is so lush that it is difficult to see the twigs themselves. At the same time, strong inflorescences do not lose their shape when dried (July). It doesn't matter how you dry them: lay them horizontally or hang them by the stem.
Goniolimon comes from the steppe, so you need to plant it in the sunniest place, away from other plants that give shade. Otherwise, it simply will not bloom. We especially
pleases with its drought tolerance. We water plantings in summer only during a period of prolonged heat.
You will have to tinker a little while growing seedlings from seeds (sowing in March). True, caring for seedlings is no different from growing any other seedlings.
And one more thing: goniolimon is a perennial. But knowledgeable flower growers suggested that some bushes in a few years, for some unknown reason, may die, so from time to time we will add young growth to the "oldies".
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If I was asked to describe in a nutshell what gypsophila is, I would answer: "Refined simplicity."
Its twigs are very refreshing bouquets, making them airy, like a gentle cloud. Looks especially impressive in combination with roses, spireas, as well as in winter compositions of dried flowers.
Several years ago I decided to grow this miracle on my site.
Features of sowing
Sowed seeds in March. Light nutritious soil is suitable for gypsophila. I moisten it and carefully spread the seeds over the surface, sprinkling with a thin layer of soil. Alternatively, it can be embedded directly into shallow grooves.
I cover the container with glass and send it to a warm, light windowsill. Sometimes I open it to ventilate and moisten the soil, and finally remove it with the emergence of seedlings.
There were a lot of seedlings - it was enough for me and for all my friends. At the end of May, she planted the sissies in a permanent place - carefully so as not to damage the root (it is pivotal and does not tolerate transplantation). Plants are located at a distance of 1 m - over time, their shoots are strongly branched. In the first year, the gypsophila grew the root system, and in the next year it appeared in all its glory - a huge ball covered with many small white flowers with a honey, sweet aroma.
Bushes are unpretentious, grow well on fertile soils, and on sandy loam, loam, drought-resistant. I did not indulge them with top dressing (1-2 times per season with an organic complex - according to the instructions). Some of the plants were cut during the flowering period, dried for decorative compositions. The rest were cut in the fall, leaving small hemp. She did not cover with anything - gypsophila hibernates well under a snowy "blanket".