Conifers and shrubs - planting and pruning, varieties and species
Contents ✓
- ✓ CONIFEROUS: FROM THE BREEDING PARTNER TO THE ADULT PLANT
- ✓ SELECTION OF LANDING MATERIAL
- ✓ LANDING OF CONIFEROUS TREES AND BUSHES
- ✓ AGROTECHNICS OF CONIFEROUS
- ✓ Planting conifers - VIDEO
- ✓ FIVE REDUCTION CUTS RULES
- ✓ PINE OR FIR
- ✓ GROWING AND CARE OF CONIFERS - ADVICE AND FEEDBACK
- ✓ CONIFEROUS CARE - VIDEO
CONIFEROUS PLANTS - PLANTING AND CARE. PHOTO, TITLES AND DESCRIPTION
CONIFEROUS: FROM THE BREEDING PARTNER TO THE ADULT PLANT
Coniferous plants are one of the most ancient. According to scientists, some representatives of this class existed on our planet already 300 a year ago. Many plants of those days have long since died out, giving way to their more modern counterparts, but still the choice of conifers remains quite extensive and allows you to roam from the heart in the design of the garden.
When buying standard graft forms of conifers, special attention should be paid to the quality of vaccination. If an embryo of a future hollow, an unstuck knot, a fungus or a noticeable cracking of layers of wood, is detected at this place, then it is better to refuse to acquire it.
SELECTION OF LANDING MATERIAL
When buying conifers, it is best to give preference to a small plant with a closed root system grown in a container. Determine whether it was on the eve of the sale dug out of open ground and transplanted into a pot, can be as follows. You need to take the container with the plant and turn it over. The soil should not get enough sleep, and the earthen clod (dense and clay, riddled with roots) should easily come out of the tank.
The needles of a healthy plant are clean, intact, without yellowness, and the branches are elastic. It is better to choose specimens with a pronounced crown shape, without double trunks and double tops (such planting material is considered rejected).
LANDING OF CONIFEROUS TREES AND BUSHES
When planting seedlings, place them taking into account how they will look not only in 5-10 years (conifers grow quickly, and an adult plant transplants to a new place very poorly), but also at different times of the year, otherwise it will not achieve a good result. If in some corner of the garden only deciduous species are arranged, then from October to May the composition will look empty and uncomfortable. If you plant some conifers, you will get the impression of some gloominess and excessive secretiveness of the plot.
Therefore, it is desirable to combine different types of plants in the garden. But at the same time try not to plant conifers, especially creeping junipers, under deciduous trees and shrubs. In autumn and winter, the fallen leaves become dead, and the coniferous plant may lose its decorative appearance by spring, turning yellow or brown.
The optimal time for planting conifers is in spring and autumn, when there is no frost movement (with the exception of plants grown in containers - they can be planted in any season, and large-sized plants that are planted in a permanent place in winter).
Transplantation is very traumatic for conifers, during which the plant loses up to 30% of suction roots.
All coniferous trees and shrubs are planted or replanted necessarily with a lump of land. For better preservation of an earthen coma, it is necessary to water the plant well the day before, and immediately after digging, wrap the lump with burlap and bandage it. Such packaging is removed only after installing the coma in the planting pit, and some gardeners even prefer to leave burlap in the ground - over time it rots.
See also: Types of coniferous plants for the garden - planting and care, photo, name description
Almost always, when planting conifers, drainage is necessary. Most plants do not tolerate moisture stagnation. The landing pit should be wider than the diameter of the coma and deeper than its height. It is optimal if a palm passes freely between the lump and the walls of the pit. After installing the earthen coma in the planting pit, you need to make sure that the root neck of the plant is at the level of the soil, and then fill the air gaps with soil mixture. For pine, the optimal composition is sand, peat, turf land (2: 1: 1); for spruce - turf land, leaf land, peat, sand (2: 2: 1: 1); the optimal mixture for larch is sheet land, peat, sand (3: 2: 1); for juniper - peat, sand, turf land (2: 1: 1); the soil mixture for fir should consist of sheet soil, clay, peat, sand (3: 2: 1: 1), and for thuja - from turf or sheet land, peat and sand (2: 1: 1).
AGROTECHNICS OF CONIFEROUS
Young conifers are better than underfed than overfed. As a rule, the first top dressing is done in early spring, when the snow will melt and the top layer of the soil will dry out a little. The most affordable fertilizer compost is applied once a season. If vermicompost and mineral fertilizers are used, then they are used twice - in the spring (when night frosts end) and in early summer. Later application of fertilizing (in the second half of summer) is fraught with the fact that the plant will go for wintering with unripened shoots, which are very vulnerable to low temperatures.
Planting conifers - VIDEO
Excessive watering is also harmful to conifers.
These plants prefer sprinkling more. Early spring (as soon as the snow melts) frequent showers and spraying the canopy with water is very useful for them. Such procedures help to open the stomata of leaves, it becomes easier for the plant to "breathe", and all the vegetative processes begin to flow more actively.
The first two winters of young planting all conifers to avoid frosting is recommended to keep under cover. For this, late autumn peat, dry leaves or sawdust are added to the plant. The thickness of the covering layer should be 6-8, see. Low spherical crowns are usually well protected by snow. And young plants with low sprawling crown can be bent to the ground and covered with spruce branches.
A common winter problem is breaking branches under the weight of snow. Regular shaking of snow from branches helps to avoid damage to plants. If it is not possible to often visit the garden, then you can pre-tie with twine the branches of spherical and columnar conifers. Narrow crowns are best tied to strong supports.
To prevent the occurrence of frost cracks on the trunks, it is recommended to wrap the trunks with a sacking cloth or a special mat. If damage still occurs, the wounds are disinfected with copper sulfate solution and covered with garden pitch.
It is better not to touch the ice crust on the needles, formed after freezing rain, the ice will melt by itself. But under the branches you need to put support, as shoots covered with ice can break off under their own weight.
During thaws, coniferous species are threatened. Most often, creeping, tightly bound and tightly covered plants are subject to this. Therefore, it is important to ensure that in the covering layer there are small openings for free air circulation. Under the branches of creeping plants, it is desirable to place large stones in advance.
Shelters are removed in the spring, after the snow melted, in the PASMUR weather. First, release the crown, then scoop sawdust and peat from the roots.
Shelters from sunburn are most relevant from the second half of winter to mid-April. Usually they use burlap or a special nets - these materials pass air well. White non-woven covering material copes with the task worse - despite the fact that it reflects sunlight, heat still accumulates under the shelter, and the plant can warm up.
If the plant has suffered sunburn, then it is necessary to carefully remove the damaged shoots, smearing the cuts with garden pitch, and spray the crown with drugs that stimulate the growth of new shoots. The treatment is carried out at a daily temperature not lower than 10 °.
See also: How to protect coniferous from frost - shelter options
FIVE REDUCTION CUTS RULES
1. Choose the optimal time.
Do not cut plants in winter, because from frost the wood becomes too hard and brittle. It is also better not to carry out any work with the plant during the period of active rejuvenation (at this time, conifers begin to actively grow young shoots). It is undesirable to take on secateurs and in extreme heat when plants lose a lot of moisture. The best time for mowing conifers is the second half of summer and autumn, and the main criterion for choosing the timing of work is the average daily air temperature, it should be at least 4 °.
2. We focus on the natural form of the crown.
For example, if the crown initially tends to form a ball, then with the help of scissors, this sphericity can be slightly enhanced. This bush can be formed in the form of a cube, but do not try to give it a cone-shaped "appearance." As a rule, it is often enough to simply emphasize the form laid down by nature so that the finished composition appears in the garden. This approach is less labor-intensive, and in the future it will be easier to keep the crown in a tidy state.
3. Cut no more than a third.
Mowing is a stress for the plant, so experts advise not to remove more than 1/3 of the green mass at a time. And in order for the crown to become thicker, it is advisable to cut off a third of the growth of the current year at the end of the season, repeating the outlines of the existing crown.
4. Do not leave bare branches.
Unlike deciduous plants, most conifers do not have dormant buds, and their bare branch is not covered with new greens, but simply dries. For example, thuja and juniper practically do not resume the growth of needles on bare branches. Therefore, when trimming, you must either leave a section of the branch with needles, or delete the entire branch.
5. Cooking tool.
It should be sharp, clean and comfortable. Garden shears, pruners, pruning saws or loppers must be sharpened regularly. A slice made with a sharp tool is smooth and beautiful, and, in addition, less traumatic for the plant, it tightens faster and more accurately. Equally important is the cleanliness of the instrument. A dirty cutting surface will not work to make an even cut, and most importantly, with non-disinfected tools, it is easy to spread the pathogens into the garden.
PINE OR FIR
Spruce (Picea abies) is a very hardy large tree, growing up to 50 m in height, with a pyramidal crown and a pointed apex. The branches are directed to the sides or obliquely downwards, at the ends they are raised. Needles of juicy green color, glossy, tetrahedral, up to 2,5 cm long.
In small gardens dwarf will look great Push variety. Crohn in this variety is irregular, dense, rounded, with hanging shoots. Part of the shoots in the lower part of the plant hangs picturesquely down, making the crown weeping, and the upper branches look strictly up and sometimes form several peaks. The main advantage and decoration of the variety is the numerous small cones. When blooming, their color varies from pale pink to saturated bright raspberry. He loves light, but grows well in shading, hardy, tolerates short-term droughts.
Suitable for planting in all types of coniferous compositions, as well as with perennial shrubs and flowers, often grown in containers on terraces and balconies. It organically looks in Japanese miniature gardens, suitable for rock gardens and heather gardens.
More rare, but very effective variety of common spruce Luua Pari - a dwarf of the correct pyramidal shape with annual growths of 10-15 cm. The needles are light green. To soils, the variety is undemanding, frost-resistant, but is afraid of stagnation of water.
Serb spruce (Picea omorika) differs in narrow dense krone, rather long -
living lower branches, small copious bumps that attract birds in winter. The birthplace of the plant is the mountains of Bosnia, but at the same time the tree tolerates severe frosts perfectly.
Dwarf variety Zuckerhut (Zuckerhut) grows to 2-2,5 m and up to 1,5 m in diameter. The name of the variety is translated from German as “sugar head” and corresponds to the appearance of the tree: the crown is very dense, conical, regular and uniform, does not require forming efforts. Shoots hard, directed upwards. The needles are slightly curled, green, the underside is silver.
This variety can be grown in a container, it looks good surrounded by heathers.
Fir-tree prickly (Picea pungens) comes from the highland forests of North America, so the plant is adapted to droughts and frosts, and its natural protection from the bright sun is silver plaque on the needles.
Varieties of bright blue are propagated by grafting. Among them, the most popular Hoopsie (Hoopsii). The height of an adult tree is 12-15 m, the diameter of the crown is 3-4,5 m. The crown is evenly branching, very thick. The annual increment is 12-20, see. The branches extend horizontally from the trunk, the shoots are light brown with a reddish tinge. The needles are tough, bluish-white, 2-3 long, see
Grade Glauca Globosa (Glauca Globosa) - dwarf, up to 1 m tall and up to 1,5 m diameter. Young shoots are yellowish-brown, thin, crown rounded, needles thick, slightly crescent-shaped, white-blue in color, about 1 long, see. The tree is often used to decorate stony gardens and to grow in containers.
Mecky variety (Mescu) differs in even more compact sizes. The height of an adult tree is only 40 cm, diameter 30 cm. The location of the branches is irregular, but thick. The needles are very tough, painted in blue-gray color, located radially. The variety is not demanding on the composition of the soil, does not tolerate excessive amounts of moisture and stagnant water in the soil. Landing is well suited to the landing. The plant is relatively cold-resistant, but in the first winter it is recommended to protect the site of vaccination. Easily tolerates a haircut.
This variety is often grown in containers, planted in stony and heather gardens, used to create compositions in the Alpine hill.
Pine (Pinus sylvestris) in favorable conditions it can grow to a height of up to 50 m. This tree is not for small gardens. But there are interesting species with a more compact size and a dense crown.
Waterery variety in 30-year-old reaches 3 m in height. The young tree has a thick, broadly column-shaped crown, which over the years becomes more loose, but no less picturesque. The annual increase is 10-12 cm. The length of the needles is about 4 cm, often there is a twisted needles of gray-blue color. Cones are brown, length 3-5, see.
This variety loves sunny places, frost resistant, does not tolerate excessive soil compaction, and is good at molding.
Black pine (Pinus nigra) most often found in the mountains of Europe, where it prefers calcareous soils and southern slopes. It grows to 40 m in height. The crown of young trees is pyramid, but with age it becomes umbrella-shaped.
Grade Nana (Nana) differs in slow growth - up to 5 cm per year, an adult tree reaches a height of 3 m with a diameter of a wide pyramidal (or spherical) crown of 4 m. Dark green needles 9 cm long are collected in two. Against the background of dark needles, yellow-brown cones look very decorative. He loves sunny places, begins to hurt in the shade and may even die. The variety is hardy, but poorly tolerates low snow winters. It looks good next to brightly flowering and flowering shrubs, serves as an exquisite backdrop for annual and perennial flowers.
See also: Conifer for containers - name, fit and care
Korean fir (Abies koreana) stable in the climate of central Russia. The height of an adult tree reaches 15 m. The krone is wide, cone-shaped, dense. Young shoots are yellowish, grooved, over the years acquire a purple hue. The needles are thick, seated flat, length 10-15 mm, dark green above and silver on the inside. Particular decorative plant attached dark purple cones.
Grade Silberlock (Silberlocke) compact, reaching a height of 1,2-1,8 m, with a conical crown and large cones up to 7 in length. The needles are bent in such a way that you can see their lower surface whitish. From a distance, the plant looks silvery, as if covered with hoarfrost, hence the name of the variety, which in translation sounds like a “silver curl”. The variety is frost resistant and moderately moisture-loving. It grows slowly, which allows you to rarely apply a haircut.
Molly variety (Molli) reaches 7 m tall when the crown diameter is 3 m. It grows relatively slowly, with an annual increase of no more than 7 cm, and does not require pruning, because it forms a regular symmetrical shape with a pyramidal silhouette. Thick shoots branched strongly and evenly expanded. The needles are flat, wide, dense, saturated green color with a slight bluish tinge. The underside of the needles bluish-white. The plant makes shading, but the shoots are strongly drawn out, the crown loosens. Often used to form hedges.
Subalpine fir (Abies lasio- carpa) come from North America. An adult tree can reach a height of 30 m. The shape of the crown is cone-shaped, with dense tiers of shoots. The needles are up to 3 cm long, greenish-blue, rounded at the end.
One of the most beautiful varieties - Compact (Compacts). The height of an adult tree is about 3 m, the crown is broad-conical, with a diameter of 2-2,5 m, the branches are short, hard. Needles up to 3 cm long, with a rounded tip, the needles are dull on the top, bluish-green, from the bottom with two white stripes. Young cones are purple-reddish; upon maturation, they acquire a dark brown color. The plant prefers fertile moist soil, sunny or partial shade. It looks good both in single and in group landings.
Fir monochrome (Abies concolor) - a powerful, tall (up to 60 m) tree with a trunk up to 2 m in diameter. The species got its name due to the bluish-green color of the needles that is the same on both sides. In young plants, the crown is broad, spike-like, conical in shape, over the years the branches descend, and the crown becomes flatter. When ripe, the olive-green cones change color first to tan, and then acquire a dark brown color.
Pygmy or Sparkling Compact variety (Compacts) grows to 1,5 m. Growth is no more than 5 cm per year. Often the plant forms the 2-3 tops. The crown is dense, conical in shape, the branches are directed upwards and sideways. Needles up to 4 cm long, sickle-curved, silver-blue color. Variety light-requiring, in the shade strongly drawn, with the needles pales. It has high winter hardiness, prefers nutritious drained soil, looks good on alpine slides, in plantings at water bodies and along tracks.
Canadian hemlock (Tsuga Canadensis) - the only species that winters well in our latitudes. It features a wide conical crown, hanging branches, covered with brown flaky bark with deep cracks. The needles are shiny, flat, dark green in color. Soft needles (up to 1,5 cm long) are arranged in two rows, with two narrow white stripes visible on the lower side. Cones are oval in shape, no longer than 2,5 cm long. An adult tree can reach a height of 30 m.
Dwarf variety Mall (Moll) barely exceeds 1 m in height with a crown diameter 2-2,5 m, gives annual increments within 10-12, see. The plant forms an asymmetrical, openwork, widely spread crown. The needles are short (up to 1,5 cm), thin, soft, rich green color with a bluish tinge. The young growth is bright green, contrastingly stands out against the background of old needles.
This variety can grow both in open sunny areas and in the shade; it has high winter resistance.
Juniper Cossack (Juniperus sabina) - the most common species from the great many junipers that can grow well in the middle zone of Russia. The height of the bush reaches 1 -1,5 m, it grows horizontally in relation to the ground. The plant forms beautiful lush thickets of branches, covered with needles in the form of scales, located on the stems according to the principle of tiles.
Noteworthy variety Arcadia (Arcadia) - ground cover, never losing its decorative effect. At the age of 10, the height of the plant is 30 cm, diameter 1 m.
Fast growing variety Mac (Mas) gives an annual growth of stems to 20, see. Height of an adult plant 2 m, diameter of a shrub about 8 m. The shape of a young plant resembles an inverted truncated cone. Later, it grows in the horizontal direction and becomes a wide bush, spread in breadth. Acicular needles, pricking, green with a bluish-blue hue. In winter, the needles get lilac shade. It copes well with cold and drought, easily tolerates pruning.
Thuja western (Thuja occidentalis) - the only species of thuja, promising for cultivation in the conditions of central Russia. It resembles cypress in appearance. Needles up to 0,5 cm in size, shiny, green, turns brown-green in winter.
Variety Smaragd (Smaragd) has a conical crown and light green color of needles. The crown is narrow pyramidal, preserving the green color throughout the year. The plant does not need frequent pruning, as it grows slowly. The variety is shade tolerant, can withstand temperatures down to 40 °, but the soil requires well-drained.
Grade Brabant (Brabant) allows you to create a hedge in a short time - the rate of annual growth of 0,5 m per year. The needles are light green. The shape of the bush can be modified. The plant is light-requiring and transfers waterlogging, but does not withstand severe frosts. This variety is unpretentious to the soil, but on fertile soil needles brighter.
GROWING AND CARE OF CONIFERS - ADVICE AND FEEDBACK
CONIFERS IN AUGUST
At this time, under coniferous trees and shrubs, it is not necessary to apply manure and nitrogen fertilizers. Otherwise, this will cause a strong growth of shoots, and they will not have time to ripen before the cold weather, which means that they will die during the frost period. In mid-August, apply a complex mineral fertilizer with a high content of phosphorus, potassium and magnesium under the root (according to the instructions). After a week, spray on the needles with the same preparation, only halve the dosage (doubling the amount of water).
If there is a drought, water the conifers every 3 days at the rate of a bucket per 1 sq.m of the trunk circle. By winter, both needles and all plant tissues should be well saturated with moisture. Most of all, creeping junipers and globular thujas need watering. In addition to watering under the root, during the dry season, sprinkle the entire crown twice a week in the evening, otherwise the needles will begin to burn out and dry out.
At the end of August, preventive treatment against pests (for example, Caesar insecticide) and diseases (Bordeaux liquid - 100 g per 10 liters of water) will not interfere.
Carefully clean the crown of dead needles and damaged twigs burned in the sun. This will help improve air exchange in the crown and reduce the risk of decay during the rainy season.
© Author: Nikolay KHROMOV, Cand. agricultural sciences
Reference by topic: Coniferous trees and shrubs in the garden: planting and care
CONIFEROUS CARE - VIDEO
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At the end of August, it's time to cut thujas, cypresses, spruces and junipers. Cut heel cuttings from well developed, semi-lignified shoots that have grown this year. Root them in the greenhouse. Use a mixture of peat and sand (1: 1) as a soil. Cover the "kids" with spruce branches for the winter, and transplant them to a permanent place in the spring.
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- For the winter, I’m not harboring conifers. They tolerate winter well, only occasionally freeze or suffer from sunburn. Therefore, in February-March, I shade young plantings, and in April, I carefully cut or cut off dry and weak branches.
Larger specimens in the winter periodically shake off the snow so that the branches do not break under its weight. In summer, in hot and dry weather, I water the young plantings. If I see that some bush loses its decorativeness, grows poorly, I feed it with Gumi fertilizer for conifers (according to the instructions) several times per
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I decided to create a green hedge of fir trees, began to plant them in a row along the border with neighbors, placing each tree in 30, see each other.
I dig up seedlings in the forest (but do not consider me a poacher: they will soon pave the way, so everything will be cleaned to zero there). And what a thing I came across: all the Christmas trees rooted well, only one withered. I planted another there, but she did not take root. I dug up the earth, brought humus, planted a third - the same story. What kind of place is this unlucky? What is wrong with him?