Pepper formation: when, why and how to do it right - tips and secrets
Contents ✓
- ✓ STAGES FOR FORMING SWEET PEPPER
- ✓ SEEDLING FORMATION.
- ✓ FORMING SWEET PEPPER - WHY IT IS NEEDED AND HOW TO DO IT CORRECTLY. TIPS AND FEEDBACK
- ✓ TO CLIP THE TOP OF THE PEPPER OR NO - ADVICE FROM EXPERIENCE
- ✓ Random experience
- ✓ CONTINUE EXPERIMENT
- ✓ EXCELLENT RESULT
- ✓ DO YOU NEED TO CLIP PEPPER TOPS - VIDEO
SWEET PEPPER FORMATION
This agricultural technique is carried out to improve the quality and increase the number of fruits on the bushes. It differs from pruning in that not only shoots are removed, but also flowers and ovaries.
Low-growing varieties (up to 60 cm) need to remove weak and growing shoots inside the bush. Barren large shoots are also removed. With dense plantings in undersized peppers, it is recommended to cut off a few lower leaves. This is where the formation ends.
Tall varieties and hybrids, capable of reaching a height of 2 m, grow strongly and thicken. Thus, the plant spends all its energy on increasing the green mass, and there are few fruits, they are very small. Greenhouse peppers, moreover, from thickening begin to become infected with fungal infections, and the bed quickly disappears.
High bushes are recommended to be formed throughout the entire period of their cultivation.
Sowing sweet pepper for seedlings can be carried out in containers with deep cells (size about 6x6x10 cm), one seed per cell. Landing pattern - in a checkerboard pattern (through one cell in each row).
STAGES FOR FORMING SWEET PEPPER
SEEDLING FORMATION.
Having reached a height of 12-20 cm, the stem begins to give the second main branch. In the fork of the branches, the crown (first) bud appears to be removed - this is the formation at the first stage. The bush left without a bud actively builds up the next “floor” of shoots (their structure near pepper resembles floors, on each of which new shoots and buds are laid). At least one fruit is formed on each shoot, due to which we get several full-fledged ovaries instead of a removed crown bud.
To obtain seeds, the crown bud is not removed!
The next stage of bush formation is performed after transplanting seedlings into a greenhouse or beds. Depending on the planting pattern and the characteristics of the variety, the bushes are formed into one or two stems after the next growth for every 15-20 cm. Barren shoots are cut off, excess ovaries are removed.
Cut the lower leaves to the first shoots (fork), on which there are ovaries. But how to determine how many lower leaves can and should be removed, because there are quite a lot of them down to the fork, up to two dozen? Adult bushes during flowering, fruit formation and development consume a lot of moisture, which is distributed by the plant according to the following rule: first it goes up to the fruits and flowers, and only then it is distributed to the leaves. With a lack of moisture and nutrition, the lower leaves begin to curl and wither, they hang down, while the upper green mass has a healthy, juicy appearance. These curling leaves are to be removed.
Trim the leaves in several steps so that the plant can withstand stress more easily.
When medium-sized bushes are formed in two stems, when not only the crown is removed, but also one flower on each fork (or in a checkerboard pattern), the fruit ripening time increases, but the yield will be much better. To prevent the bushes from breaking off, equip a horizontal support in the form of several (in height) rows of stretched twine.
FORMING SWEET PEPPER - WHY IT IS NEEDED AND HOW TO DO IT CORRECTLY. TIPS AND FEEDBACK
TO CLIP THE TOP OF THE PEPPER OR NO - ADVICE FROM EXPERIENCE
Do I need to pinch the top of the pepper seedlings?
© Posted by: Tatyana Moscow region
Random experience
Exist various recommendations for the formation of pepper bushes - somewhere they write that they must be pinched, someone advises to grow strictly in one trunk and remove only the first bud. And someone does not recommend pinching him. So do you really need a pinch of pepper?
For some time I began to pinch the tops of the pepper seedlings. A few years ago, several bushes of seedlings broke the tops, and we had to plant them in this form. Then it turned out that it was these peppers that gave abundant branching and a great harvest compared to other plants of the same variety.
CONTINUE EXPERIMENT
Last year, the pepper planted in early February. He grew well, crown buds began to appear - the first buds on the top of the plant. .
And I decided to experiment - I plucked the tops with these buds. Then she fed the plants, and after that literally immediately the side shoots began to grow abundantly.
COUNCIL
WEAKLY VARIETIES WITH SELF-LIMITING GROWTH DO NOT NEED TO TABLE.
EXCELLENT RESULT
What gives such a pinching? The plant growth in height is slowed down, it does not spend strength on the formation of buds (they will not be confused anyway), but the seedlings build up powerful side shoots, on which we will get the main harvest later.
It is necessary to pinch, basically, over the 6-8 sheet.
I grow peppers in glasses with a volume of 200 ml. When the root system braids the whole earthen room, I transplant them into pots more spaciously.
See also: Burnt (pungent) pepper - species, varieties and cultivation
DO YOU NEED TO CLIP PEPPER TOPS - VIDEO
Below other entries on the topic "Dacha and garden - with their own hands"
- Growing peppers without picking and in the wings
- Cultivation of pepper - tips gardener
- Pepper for beginners - what and where to grow
- Accurate step-by-step instructions for growing sweet peppers of elite varieties
- Red bell bell pepper - planting and care
- How to grow pepper
- Planting sweet pepper in the open ground
- Thick-walled peppers - varieties and cultivation
- Growing sweet pepper in Altai Krai - planting and care
- Hot Pepper (PHOTO) - the best varieties, name and reviews
Subscribe to updates in our groups and share.
Let's be friends!
#
Like tomatoes, peppers periodically need a "haircut" - removing side shoots. This causes the plant to form fruits rather and saves strength and nutrients. At the same time it is also necessary to tear off fruitless flowers and excess leaves.
At the beginning of growth on the stem, leave the 2-3 strongest (skeletal) shoots that will grow from the fork with the crown bud (first). On all other shoots, trim the tip (growth point). Skeletal branches will continue to branch and form buds. They will also need to leave on 1-2 strong escape, and the rest - pinch. All pruning processes, departing about 1 cm up from the first leaf and flower buds. One leaf should be left - it is responsible for feeding the ovary, located under it. Over time, unnecessary shoots and leaves may appear on the main stem below the branching - they will also have to be removed along with leaves that shade the ovary.
FACT: IF A PUSH OF THE PEPPER IS LITTLE OF LIGHT, THE FRUITS CAN NOT BE TOTAL AT ALL, EVEN IF THE FLOWERING WAS ABOUT.
#
"Belladonna" translated from Italian means "beautiful woman", however, in my garden is rather a handsome man, because we are talking about the early ripe pepper Beladonna F1. The first fruits of this hybrid gives already after 3 months. after germination. They are cuboid, with thick walls, sweet and not bitter even in the stage of technical ripeness. A fully mature become greenish-white. Bushes grow to 60-80, see
I already have a tradition - every March 8 I do Beladonna. I soak the seeds for a day in a solution of a growth stimulant, sow them, cover with a film, clean them in a warm place. When loops of seedlings appear from the ground, I put the plates on the windowsill. When the first pair of leaves appears, dive the peppers into 400 ml glasses.
In mid-May, I plant seedlings in a greenhouse - 3-4 seedlings per 1 square. m. Three times a season I feed with complex fertilizer.