Rassadny and seedless methods of growing cabbage in comparison
CABBAGE WITH COMBINATIONS - LANDING AND CARE
It turns out that mulch from old leaves can completely replace not only regular soil loosening, but even podozhuchivanie!
ABOUT ROOT CABBAGE SYSTEM
I grow cabbage of different ripening periods, but I pay special attention to late, because it is the most delicious. I use two methods for this. The first is seedling. He, of course, is the simplest, but he has one significant drawback.
The fact is that the grown-up plants need to pinch the central roots, otherwise they don’t tolerate the transplant. Because of this procedure, however, they develop a fibrous root system, which helps plants to better absorb the nutrients in the soil.
But, on the other hand, it is located mainly in the upper layer of the earth, and therefore plantings are extremely dependent on regular and abundant watering, especially in hot weather. And this may be a problem. Therefore, in parallel, I also use a seedless cabbage cultivation method.
And in this case, the root system of plants penetrates to a depth of 1,5-2 m, which makes them more drought-resistant.
I’ll tell you more about it. In early April, I make rows of holes in the beds (I leave 40 cm between them and 60 cm between the rows) with a bayonet depth of a shovel, half fill them with fertile soil, humus and ash, mix everything and sow 4-6 each seeds, sprinkling them lightly.
I water from a polivalki made from a plastic one and a half liter bottle, in the lid of which, on the inside with a heated awl, small holes are made in a staggered manner so that the water streams are weak and do not erode the soil.
And then I cover each well with five-liter plastic bottles with cut-off bottoms and screwed caps. These shelters not only play the role of small greenhouses, but also later protect young seedlings from the cruciferous flea.
When sprouts appear, remove the lid with the bottle, and return it to the place at night. When the first leaves are formed on capubes, I make a selection: in each hole I leave only one, the best plant, and carefully dig, grow and sell the rest on the market. As the cabbage grows, I add fertile soil to each well to stimulate the formation of additional roots. But I don’t fall asleep completely - they remain just below the soil level.
When the threat of recurrent frosts has passed, I remove the shelters, but not immediately, but stretch this process for a week: in the afternoon I take off, in the evening I put it back to temper the cabbage. On the eighth day, in the evening, I clean the bottles completely (the plants acclimatize even better during the night), I water the plants with warm water and pour leaves of 20 cm thick leaves stored in bags from the autumn into the buried holes.
This mulch not only retains moisture in the soil, but also completely eliminates podokuchivanie and loosening. It only remains for me a few times a season to sprinkle ashes under the plants and fertilize them with infusions of herbs.
And traditional hilling does nothing good. Indeed, although additional roots grow in the formed knolls of the earth, in the heat they all die, even if you water the cabbage from morning to night. Why? Yes, because water slides down the hills without going inside. But if you become zealous with watering, the water will generally wash out the ground, and the additional roots will be exposed - in short, and so they will die. Another thing is in-depth sowing with a gradual pouring of soil and the final mulching of the wells with litter. This method definitely has no drawbacks.
See also: Processing and feeding of cabbage - councils of summer residents and truck farmers
GREEN-SPANIT FOR CABBAGE
Nevertheless, I really like to experiment with cabbage. For example, a few years ago, my husband and I came up with a cheap, roomy and very comfortable hotbed-nursery for her. In the spring, as soon as the earth dried out, on the sunny side of the garden, dug a hole 1,20 × 0,7 m and a depth of 60 cm and divided the excavated earth into two heaps: the bottom layer was folded into one, the top one into the other. Why did you choose such "unrounded" dimensions for the greenhouse? Yes, because they correspond to the size of the thick glass that once lay on my old desk.
The bottom of the pit was covered with a layer of fallen leaves 10 cm thick, then they laid the same amount of fresh goat manure (in one of the rooms there was a question about whether it can be used, and so, I answer - it is possible and necessary!), And then again they poured leaves, but already a layer of 5 cm. They poured everything with hot water (about 70 °) and covered the pit with previously excavated earth: first its lower layer, then the upper one (the thickness of both turned out to be about 15 cm). An incomplete bucket of humus and a half-liter can of ash were poured on top, dug up this organics and watered with cooler water (room temperature). As a result, the soil surface in the pit turned out to be 15 cm below the soil level in the garden.
After that, a box of planks was placed along the perimeter and thick glass was placed directly on the desk. And after 10 days (just in mid-April), when the contents of the box warmed up, I sowed there in two rows at intervals of 6, see the seeds, dropping them immediately over a couple of pieces. After the first leaves of two plants were formed on the seedlings, she left the best ones and a week after that she fed them with a solution of bird droppings (1: 20). After another seven days, this feeding was repeated. For the formation of additional roots under the plant, from time to time she added fertile soil to cotyledon leaves. Watered only with warm water.
On hot sunny days, she cleaned the glass during the day, and a week before planting a cabbage for a permanent place, took it off completely. Rassad, by the way, at this time 45-50 days were already filled, and each plant had 5-6 leaves.
We land them with the husband in cloudy weather, trying not to damage the clods of the earth with roots. If the landing is done on a fine day, the seedlings will not exactly take root. Every spring in this hotbed nursery we change the soil. And we do it only at the beginning of the season, because if you make a replacement in the fall, then in the winter the “filling” of the house will freeze and it will be difficult to warm it up in the spring.
See also: Growing cabbage broccoli seedlings and seedlings
UNVANCED METHOD OF CROPPED CABBAGE
© Author: Pavlina Filippovna Zubritskaya
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- Top dressing of late cabbage in summer
- Hybrids of early ripening cabbage Express F1 and Flash F1 - my reviews
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- Processing and feeding of cabbage - councils of summer residents and truck farmers
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- Cultivation of cabbage in the Moscow region - varieties, planting and care, what kind of feeding is needed
- My method of sowing and planting early and late cabbage (Ryazan region)
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