Growing cabbage in the Krasnodar Territory - planting and care
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HARVESTING CABBAGE - TIPS FROM KRASNODAR REGION
Perhaps it is easy for someone, but it’s not for nothing that the people nicknamed white cabbage the mistress - it’s painfully hard to please her. But it is possible. The main thing is not to lose vigilance, and the letter from our permanent author will help you in this as well as possible.
Hello dear readers! What else have I not written to you? And I'll write about the lady of the garden. Some summer residents say that this vegetable is unpretentious in cultivation - I do not agree with them. To grow strong, resilient heads of cabbage, you must try to please this mistress, protect yourself from diseases and pests, and for this you need to know absolutely everything about her.
Early cabbage and seedlings
I do not grow cabbage seedlings: I buy in the market and firmly believe in the variety that the seller calls me. Soot early seedlings in mid-March, choosing a sunny, convenient place for watering. It happens that I am in a hurry with the planting, the seedlings turn blue and do not survive for a long time. The reason for this is the same: cabbage sydnam sits in cold, damp soil. And so you want early crunch hard juicy leaves!
When planting early cabbage, I do not throw anything into the holes, I only feed it with ammonium nitrate to give it a boost for growth - the cabbage has enough winter moisture and autumn top dressing. But when planting varieties of medium maturity (after a month and a half), when pests have already woken up or are about to wake up, I close up various purchased preparations in the ground. From the keel I spill the soil with fungicide or colloidal sulfur.
Next to cabbage, I never plant tall plants: she does not like shade. But it also suffers from heat, and also requires in large quantities not only moisture, but also nutrients.
I pay special attention to late cabbage - perhaps because early and middle cabbage have a short growing season and I plant them a little. Late cabbage is planted in the ground in early June in an amount of more than 70 pieces. And here I begin a stubborn, painstaking struggle for its survival. I myself am surprised: why am I planting late cabbage in order to guess from day to day what disease or pest attacked it? ..
See also: How to grow very large cabbage - 10 care tips
CABBAGE GROWING WHEN IT IS COLD, IT IS HOT ...
Last year, a third of the heads did not start. Why? There are many reasons: poor-quality seeds, keel, sweltering heat (since the beginning of July), aphids, flies, dustpan and other harmful animals, dense planting and, as a result, poor lighting, planting in insufficiently dense soil, poorly fertilized soil ... You can list to infinity but you still have to look for the main reason to consider it in the future.
Take, for example, a cabbage fly. It feeds on cabbage roots, and young, fragile plants die, and for those that survive, they do not make heads of cabbages. You can get rid of the fly by loosening the soil around the stump: a fly, like a bad crawler, does not inject the larva and will die.
If you notice that the leaves have changed color and began to fade in sunny weather, this is a keel. The roots of the cabbage swell, as it were, acidic soil contributes to this. Kila is the most dangerous fungal disease for all types of cabbage (photo 1). But it occurs not only on acidic soils, but also on heavy loams (like mine) and on overmoistened ones. Kiel spores remain in the soil for more than five years. What to do? Lick, loosen, spud to form additional roots, try to observe planting dates, select resistant varieties, and remove diseased plants ruthlessly.
When exhausting heat and weak watering cabbage, due to its wide leaves, loses a lot of moisture, and that's not tied cabbages. In addition, in the heat, it is attacked by caterpillars of several species of butterflies. They are joined by cabbage moth, moths and bugs (small brown bugs). It is impossible to assemble them manually, and deterring agents do not last long.
But the most tenacious and stubborn, I think slug. During the day, they hide in the weeds, and at night they go out hunting. Slugs eats holes in the leaves, damage the stems, clog between the leaves of the head.
I locate them by mucous tracks. Some gardeners scatter pellets around the cabbage with a special preparation, others put traps, but I scatter dry rice husks around the perimeter and pour fresh fresh as it gets wet.
In rainy weather, not only slugs appear, but also gray mold on the leaves. Due to poor-quality, non-pickled seeds, vascular bacteriosis occurs. And if you saw white shiny spots on the leaves, and the growth of cabbage stopped - this is white rust. I cut off the affected leaves and treat them with the appropriate product.
In a drought due to a sharp loss of moisture, the leaves of cabbage dry and curl up with a tube - this is a regional burn. I cut off the lower leaves only at. last resort: if they are dry or rotten from moist ground. Bare cabbage, in my opinion, leads to a decrease in yield, and the size of the head of cabbage depends on the number of leaves in the outlet. The nutrients from the green leaves enter the inner white leaves, and the cabbage head thickens. In addition, green leaves are as if covered with wax and protect the head of cabbage from mechanical damage and frost.
For winter storage, I cook cabbage in advance. Some gardeners are undermining or incising the roots, I do not do that, although I try to help the cabbage to get stronger so that it can be kept longer: I throw ashes on the wet leaves and root them with phosphorus fertilizers. Cabbage is desirable to clean after the first frost, and if the weather is warm, I look at the appearance of the covering leaves.
The leaves brightened, shine appeared - it's time to harvest. If you follow this rule, the light bitterness leaves and the heads of cabbage become crispy and sweet.
Late cabbage is characterized by a high content of fiber, because of this, when fermented, it acquires a special taste and aroma. Only for the late cabbage, I apply drip irrigation using five-liter bottles (photo 2 and 3). After all, she, poor thing, has to grow all summer.
Who is this hooligan?
Somehow, several years ago, following the example of my neighbor, I decided to grow a second crop of white cabbage. After harvesting the varieties of medium ripening periods (somewhere in July), I left two stepsons in the leaf axils, and removed the rest. The heads of cabes didn’t want to start their work because of the intense heat! Had to feed twice ammonium nitrate. Oh, how soon there appeared little loose kochanchiki with a fist! The result was much better for the neighbor, she still regularly receives second harvests.
HOW DO I KEEP A CABBAGE, NOT HAVING A CELLAR?
Once, on the advice of friends, I dug a trench deep in 50-60, see the bottom lined with straw, scattered wormwood from rodents. Cabbage dug with roots in the amount of 20 pieces for long-term storage. She put her heads up in one row, the outer leaves tucked under the stalks, sprinkled straw on top, and then 40 see about a layer of earth. And I got a “cellar”. She covered it with a sheet of tin on top (it can be slate), and put a piece of pipe for ventilation in the side.
Rubbing my hands of pleasure, I dreamed of how I would crunch my cabbage in early spring. I want to note, by the way, that during the rain I closed the tube. But my cabbage for the New Year almost all rotted!
This method of storage did not suit me due to the close groundwater table. But I found another option, and pretty good. I dig up cabbage with roots, shake off the ground, cut off the top rough leaves. Each head of cabbage wrapped in cling film and hung under a canopy roots up. A light draft blows through the cabbage, and it stays fresh for a long time.
In photo 4, heads of cabbage with affected leaves are visible. My husband believes that this is a regional burn from heat and sudden loss of moisture. But what can be the heat in September? I think that the cabbage most likely lacks potassium, although I twice scattered the ashes between the rows. All fruits and vegetables lack potassium in the same way: first the edges of the leaves brighten, then they darken and dry out. Maybe summer residents tell me that this is a disease or lack of nutrients? Or maybe some pest is a bully?
In conclusion, I want to give a recipe for a very simple, classic dish - lazy cabbage rolls (I often cook it).
We take 600 of minced meat and 400 of finely chopped cabbage. Fill the cabbage with boiling water, wait until it cools completely, filter, gently squeeze with hands, combine with minced meat, add browned onions and egg, salt, pepper and form into cutlets. Roll them in bread crumbs and fry.
Bon appetit!
GROWING CABBAGE IN OPEN GROUND: VIDEO
© Author: Galina SHCHEKALEVA Art. Petrovskaya of the Krasnodar Territory
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