Redcurrant - care after planting
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HOW TO CARE FOR RED CURRANT - CARE CALENDAR AFTER PLANTING
Currant care includes regular watering, feeding, weeding, loosening the soil and protection from diseases and pests.
For normal growth and fruiting of currants, it is necessary to maintain a constant soil moisture (80% of the maximum field moisture-bone). There are instruments for determining this indicator, but they are rarely used in home gardens. It is more often defined “by eye”: they take a little of the earth from the root layer (at a depth of 20 cm) and squeeze it in a fist. If the humidity is normal, it turns out to be dense, solid, without cracks, not crumbling along the edges. If the crust cracks and small “crumbs” fall off from it, it is time to water the soil.
Irrigation allows you to increase the yield by two times or more.
Summer residents and owners of personal plots water the plants with a hose. An earthen roller is poured around the bushes and the water is poured into a circle. It is desirable that it be warm, room temperature. True, red currant, unlike many other crops, normally reacts to cold water.
Sprinkling is also used for irrigation: they install sprinklers to disperse jets that irrigate not only tree trunks, but also the entire area of the site. In this case, a lot of water is consumed, but you do not need to stand over the grooves, waiting for them to fill up, and move the hose from place to place.
However, the most progressive method for today is drip irrigation. It allows you to save water and time and labor. Drip tape laid out in rows of currants and through the main pipeline connected to the pump. The system is ready to work, for irrigation it is enough to turn on the pump. While the water soaks the soil and reaches the depth where the roots are located, it manages to warm up, so you can water it directly from the well or well.
Rare abundant watering is better than frequent, but superficial.
Moisture should wet out the root layer (see depth in 20-30). And surface watering only harms the plants, provokes the drying out and fallout of the plants.
It is important to know
It is necessary to properly form the bushes. Without forming, they will quickly grow old and cease to bear fruit.
Immediately after planting, the shoot is cut off, leaving only 2-3 foams above the ground. Of these, the first shoots appear. Several root shoots also grow. Choose the 2-3 most powerful, cut the rest of the shoots. Then annually leave another 2-3 young shoots until they form a bush of branches - from one year to seven years. Age shoots after the 6th fruiting are removed, replacing them with young ones. After IQ-14 years of productivity, the yield of the bush decreases and it is uprooted.
Every year in the spring they carry out sanitary cleaning, removing dried and broken branches affected by diseases and pests.
Mulching reduces evaporation of moisture, protects the soil from overheating, which reduces water consumption during irrigation.
In household farms, plantings are mulched with organic matter (humus, compost, hay, straw, sawdust, sunflower seed, etc.). Cover the entire area of landings. Sometimes only the aisles are mulched, and in the ranks the soil is watered, loosened, and weeds are spilled.
The layer of mulch must be dense, at least 7-8 cm, so that weeds cannot break through it. If they do germinate, it will be very difficult to weed them out on the mulch.
In recent years, other mulching materials — films and agrofabrics — have been widely used. Drip tapes must be laid under the mulching film (it is useless to water over the film). Agrotextile is more permeable - drip irrigation and sprinkling can be used.
Films and agrofabrics must be very dense and resistant to UV light, otherwise they may crumble after several months of use.
Red currants need nutrients for growth and fruiting. If fertilizers were applied during planting, the young plants can not be fed two years. From the third year of life, organic and mineral fertilizers are gradually being added to the soil on the site. Every year, planting currants mulch compost or humus (layer about 10 cm). This is enough to get good yields. But if you combine organic with complex mineral fertilizers, plant productivity will increase significantly.
It should be borne in mind that the need of plants for basic nutrients in different periods of their development is not the same. So, in early spring they need nitrogen, before and during flowering - phosphorus, during the period of berry growth, all basic elements are necessary.
Manufacturers offer mineral complex fertilizers literally "for all occasions." It is best to use drugs that are easily absorbed (for example, Master, Plantafol, Crystal and the like).
Fertilizers are applied both in dry form, by embedding the granules in the soil, and in liquid. It must be remembered that fertilizer solutions are applied only to the soil that has already been moistened, otherwise it is possible to burn the roots.
In each phase of development, plants are fed twice, with an interval of 7-10 days. Excellent results gives a combination of root and foliar feeding (spraying on the sheet).
See also: Red currant on the plot - planting and care, tips and feedback from the farmer
POPULAR VARIETIES OF RED CURRANT
Domestic and foreign breeders brought a lot of beautiful varieties of red currants - different ripening terms, with red, pink and white berries.
Early varieties of red currants for amateur cultivation: Svyatkova, Lviv Sweet, 143-23-21, Darnytsia, Asora, Lvivyanka. Holy Mikhailov and others. Varieties of average maturity: Natalie, Vyborova, Lasunya, Svetlitsa and others. Middle-late and late: Rovad, Yaroslavna, Dana, Dar Orla, Ural beauty, Rosinka. Marmalade, Leader of the Redskins. Tatran and others.
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- Varieties of red currants with white berries: White Versailles, Imperial, Squirrel, Bayana.
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Gathering the harvest, not individual berries are cut off from the bush, but whole brushes. In this form, they are sent to the markets.
The berries from the brushes are separated immediately before processing. Red currant berries make excellent fruit drinks, compotes, jellies, jams, they are frozen, both fresh and ground with sugar.
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In the autumn, before the leaf fall, 2-3 spraying phosphate-potassium fertilizers (for example, potassium monophosphate) is sprayed, with an interval of 10-14 days. Phosphorus and potassium contribute to the accumulation of plastic substances in the tissues of plants that they need for a successful wintering. It is also necessary to stop the introduction of nitrogen from mid-August in order to stop their growth. If you continue to feed the plants with nitrogen, they leave in the winter with nevzrevshimi shoots and can freeze.
PROTECTION OF RED CURRENT FROM DISEASES AND PESTS
Protection of plantings from diseases and pests - mandatory agricultural practices, which can not be neglected. Only healthy and strong plants give a full harvest, you should not expect abundant fruiting from sick and weakened bushes.
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Adult females of currant glass (butterfly) lay eggs in the tissue of young shoots in places of cracks, chips and fractures. Caterpillars emerge from them, which feed on the soft core of the shoots, moving from the tops to the roots of the plant. As a result, the eaten shoots dry out, the bush dies. Stem Galley also lays eggs in places of mechanical damage on the currant branches. The affected shoots dry out and nadlamyvayutsya.
Two sprays, before and after flowering, with broad-spectrum insecticides (for example, mospilan, bisca) are sprayed against gall midge and glass-case. These drugs also act on other pests with similar life cycles.
Getting rid of ticks and aphids is much more difficult. These pests hatch throughout the season, even after spraying. The first two treatments destroy the main number, but the remaining insects multiply rapidly and quickly restore the population. Therefore, it is necessary to constantly inspect the shoots in time to detect the defeat of aphids or ticks.
Symptoms of aphid damage - deformed leaves and shoots, as well as the presence of ants on the plant. As a result of the activity of the red-aphid aphid, swelling of red color appears on the leaves. The spider mite leaves traces of its stay in the form of thin cobwebs ...
If mites and aphids appear on the currants during the ripening of the fruit, the bushes are treated with biological products [for example, actophyte, 8 g for 10 l of water). After picking berries, more “heavy artillery” is used - insecticides against sucking pests (teldor, actellic and others).
Diseases of modern red currant varieties are quite resistant. For protection, it is enough to hold one early spring spraying with 3% Bordeaux mixture, chorus or iron sulfate.
In addition to chemical measures are widely used and agrotechnical. Maintain cleanliness on the site, regularly weeding out weeds, which are often breeding grounds for diseases. Late autumn, they dig up the top layer of soil to destroy the pests that hibernate in it. Carefully look after plantings, water and fertilize, timely cut and form plants to avoid thickening of plantings. Powerful and strong bushes are much less likely to get sick than weakened by the lack of food, water and sunlight.
Note
On the bushes of red currants often form incomplete brushes. Some gardeners blame poor pollination because bees do not fly in cold weather. But this assertion is unfounded, since most modern varieties are self-pollinated.
Incomplete brushes are usually formed if the plantings are poorly cared for. Ovaries fall off due to lack of moisture or nutrients. This problem is easy to fix by increasing the level of agricultural technology on the site.
Ovaries can also fall off after frost, which fell during the flowering period. Adverse weather conditions are difficult to fight. In order to save a part of the future harvest, during a cold snap, smoke is carried out at the site.
Useful technique
After ripening, the berries can remain in the hands for a long time, without falling off, which distinguishes this crop from the black currant. Even in October, it is still possible to find dried berries on the bushes of the red currant. However, due to the high temperature during the ripening period, they quickly lose their marketability and shrink. Of course, their nutritional quality is still preserved, but the view becomes unpresentable. To extend the marketability of berries, red currant bushes pritenyut nets.
See also: Red currant - planting and care, feeding and pest control (Moscow)
Growing Red Currant - VIDEO
© Author: O.Saveyko
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- Golden Currant (photo) planting and care, reproduction and varieties
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- Alpine currant (photo) - properties and varieties
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- Black currant in Siberia - varieties, planting and care (Irkutsk)
- Cultivation of blackcurrant - planting and care (St. Petersburg)
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- Golden currant (photo) planting and care (Rostov region)
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Red currants in my garden take up no less space than black ones. There are plenty of reasons for that.
Firstly, this is a very beautiful ornamental shrub, so I grow red currants on a trellis along the path and against the wall of the house. Secondly, it takes much less time to care for it than, for example, for black, and it gives higher yields. In addition, red currant is self-fertile - it does without pollinating varieties. You can plant just one bush - and still the harvest will be.
The best time for planting red currants is autumn or early spring. I planted it, as advised in the nursery, 5-6 cm lower than it grew in the nursery, and it was spacious - 1,5-2 m from the bush, so that the planted bushes, as far as pocia, were not shaded by trees and each other. Down poured 1-2 buckets of humus and on top - 1-2 shovels of garden soil.
After planting, the bush was abundantly watered and mulched on top with sawdust. With such a shelter, you will have to water and weed less often.
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There is always room for red currants in my garden. I want to share with you why I love red currants more than black ones. Firstly, red gives high annual yields, secondly, it is winter-hardy, and thirdly, ripe berries can hang on a bush for a long time (a whole season!) Without crumbling and remaining just as tasty. And, finally, red currant is a long-liver: it lives and bears fruit for almost 15-20 years!
No, without currants, as well as without lilacs, I simply cannot imagine my “hacienda”!
Caring for her is simple, her bushes are quite resistant to diseases, only currants love to be fed: therefore, I increase the dose of organic fertilizers to 6-8 kg per 1 sq. m, and I bring half the norm at the end of September, and the rest in the spring.
Pruning bushes of red currant, as well as black, I spend in early spring, at the beginning of growth. But keep in mind: in the first years after planting, pruning is almost not carried out, and in the future it is desirable to have an average of at least 10-12 fruit-bearing branches and 4-5 renewal shoots per bush.
The formed bush should have up to 15-20 branches of different ages (according to my observations, one branch yields 6-8 years, sometimes more).
As for watering, currants, in general, tolerate drought well, but with a lack of moisture, the berries become small.
So I am not lazy and constantly make sure that my beauties do not suffer from thirst.
Red currants can be added to salads, like cranberries or lingonberries. Especially this berry is necessary for those who suffer from constipation.
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At the red currant, which bears fruit abundantly, this time almost all the branches were covered with drops of white tar. What is this disease?
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Red currant is affected by anthracnose. The infection is spread by raindrops and insects. Conidia germinate only in drop-liquid moisture, penetrating into the plant through integumentary tissues. A similar disease is characteristic of both blackcurrant and gooseberry.
The first signs appear on the leaves after flowering are very small, up to 1 mm in diameter, angular-rounded brown spots, giving the entire leaf a brownish tint. The disease reaches its maximum development in July-August: in the center of the spots, the epidermis of the leaf rises, turns black and becomes shiny, then a breakthrough occurs and light-colored tubercles appear on the surface of the leaf (or shoot, if it is damaged), consisting of a mass of conidia glued together with a mucous substance .
Remove and destroy fallen leaves, spray with a 3% Bordeaux liquid in the fall and in the bud swelling stage in the spring with a solution of the same concentration. Then the same treatment after flowering and repeated - with an interval of 10-15 days, but no later than 20 days before harvesting, with a 1% solution of Bordeaux liquid or a suspension of benlat (foundation).
V. Borisov, candidate of agricultural sciences
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red currants are often attacked by red-gall aphids. Her feces cause poisoning and red swelling of the leaves. However, when you find these "bubbles" on the leaves, there is no one there. The pest begins to feed when the leaves are just blooming, and then moves on to weeds.
О Therefore, immediately after bud break, treat the bushes with a biological product (Bitoxi-bacillin, Avertin, Aktofit - according to the instructions). Or infusion of tansy (1 kg of fresh raw materials or 350 g of dried, pour 5 liters of water, insist
day, then boil, strain and add settled water to 10 liters). But if last year there were a lot of red leaves on the currants, use an insecticide (Aktara, Tanrek, Kinmiks).
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On my four acres along opposite fences, two bushes of white currant and a bush of red on one side, three bushes of black currant and a bush of red on the other, remarkably grew and pleased with the harvest.
Harvest they pleased me for ten years. But then one fine summer, berries began to ripen on my bushes, and what do I see? On the side where the redcurrant bush stood next to the white bushes, the berries on it ripened ... white! And where the red bush grew next to the blackcurrant bushes, the berries ripened black. I did not understand anything then and still do not understand. What was it?
Since then, everything goes like this, I no longer have red currants. And here's what's interesting: white and red currants bloom alike. But after all, black flowers are completely different! No one can explain to anyone I tell about this incident. Yes, and they do not believe, they say that I am a storyteller. Why do I need this ?!
But there is also a sequel. Five years after this incident, I brought redcurrant stalks from relatives from the village and planted them in the middle of the garden near the path. Settled wonderful. And what do you think? My bush bloomed and gave ... white berries! And since I do not need white berries, I dug it up and gave it to my friends. And he still gives them white berries.
Here is a story. Every year I’m going to write - now, finally, I wrote. And all because I recently told another person about this incident, so he also did not believe me.