Preparation of holes for transplanting tomato seedlings into the open ground - Tips for fertilizer
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TRANSMISSION OF SEEDLING OF TOMATOES IN AN OPEN SOIL - WHAT TO ENTER IN THE HOLE
First of all, you need to prepare a bed for tomatoes. The earth in it should be of uniform mechanical composition - without lumps, stones, woody residues of roots. This is achieved by a 3-4-fold harrow rake.
After that, holes are pulled out, which can be made wider so that the roots of the tomatoes actively grow to the sides. At the same time, you should not dig deep, just 20 cm is enough - the height of the root coma of the earth is rarely greater.
SET OF FERTILIZER FOR TOMATO BREEDING
Before planting it is necessary to stock up with fertilizers necessary for tomatoes. Below is their composition.
Superphosphate. Required for root development. In the case of plant overfeeding with nitrogen will save from fattening. In the hole pour 1 Art. l simple or 1 tsp. double superphosphate.
Potassium sulphate. The potassium in the fertilizer contributes to the normal flow of photosynthesis and metabolic processes in the plant, and sulfur participates in the synthesis of proteins and thereby improves the quality of the fruits. Make fertilizer in a dose of 1 Art. l per well.
Magnesium sulfate. Without magnesium, the production of chlorophyll is impossible, it is especially needed for large-fruited and greenhouse varieties, there is not much need for fertilizer: just enough pinches per well.
Dolomite flour. This is another source of magnesium, which is absorbed slowly throughout the season. Equally important is the ability of fertilizer to reduce soil acidity. No more than a handful of powder is added to the well to avoid alkalization of the soil, while tomatoes require weakly acidic soil. Dolomite flour can be replaced with wood ash. It make no more than half a cup in the hole. Suitable calcium nitrate -1 / 3 tsp.
See also: What is put into the hole when planting potatoes - share advice
Council
Recently, they began to produce special nutrient mixtures for tomatoes that can be used for planting, although it will be more expensive than using simple fertilizers. The most suitable mixture of "Health", "Multiflor" and "Agrokolla." They make the instructions.
HOW TO MAKE FERTILIZERS
Fertilizers are poured into the wells and thoroughly mixed with the soil. After that, pour half a liter of water with the addition of Fitosporin-M biofungicide or several potassium permanganate crystals into the pits and make a “talker”. In it should be planted tomato bushes. After filling the holes with soil, it is necessary to remove the leaves that touch the ground, if any, and water the plants so that the soil fills the voids in the root zone.
Over the next 10 days you should not water the tomatoes. This will stimulate the plants to develop a powerful root system, which will spread both inland and in breadth.
Nutrients in the wells filled with the fertilizers indicated above are quite sufficient for tomatoes at the first stage of their development. After the formation of brushes for a better filling of fruits, tomatoes need to be given several dressings.
See also: Planting potatoes: what to make in the hole
Council
In order to better adapt to the conditions of the greenhouse, and especially open ground, it is desirable to attach seedlings immediately after planting with a light covering material. This will protect her from sunburn.
WHAT IT IS PUT INTO THE HOLE WHEN TOMATOES ARE PLANTED - VIDEO
© Author: Elena Glebovna OSOBA, Kursk
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After planting seedlings, it must be shaded for the first time, otherwise the delicate leaves can get a sunburn.
Branches of deciduous trees are good for this purpose. They are stuck on both sides of the garden bed and closed from above, creating a kind of hut. Large shoots with a large number of branches can be stuck in the middle - you get something like an umbrella.
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I am sure that an important component of success with tomatoes is seedlings, or rather, the right soil for it.
I make up the soil myself
In autumn I mix 3 parts of compost, peat and soil from the beds, add one part of sand and wood ash. I spread the soil in bags and leave it in the greenhouse to freeze. A couple of weeks before I am going to sow tomato seeds, I take the mixture home. I carry out the first top dressing when planting seedlings. I throw in a hole with a pinch of potash fertilizer and 1 tsp superphosphate.
Further I feed the plants only if I notice that they have stopped growing: I spray on the leaves w with the universal mineral complex Lifdrip (8 g per I 1 1 l of water). In late July, I spray the late blight from the late blight with the Metaxil diluted according to the instructions, and after three non-u delhi - with the Penncozeb.