How to process from phytophtoras (Moscow region)
PHYTOPHTOR ON TOMATOES - HOW TO FIGHT?
HOW PHYTOPHTOR OF RAIN, COLD AND ... HELPFUL HELP
The causes of late blight are well known to everyone, but for some reason gardeners for some reason forget about one of them. This neglect of the rules on the principle of "maybe blows" ... Does not carry.
The 2017 season of the year turned out to be difficult for the Middle Strip, with abnormally cold spring and bad summer. Snow in the middle of April and May, cold June with heavy rains created many difficulties for us, summer residents. It was not easy to grow tomatoes and potatoes, but valuable experience appeared. I want to tell you how I struggled with blight on tomatoes and was able to save the bulk of the crop.
I grew up seedlings according to the method of N.G. Shalaeva, alternating seed freezing in the fridge and warming up on the battery, then applied the filling with snow (photo 1). The result was excellent: the seedlings grew well (photo 2).
Before that, I grew tomatoes in a small film greenhouse and finally decided to purchase a normal polycarbonate greenhouse. I installed it on April 15 (it was just snowing, and at night the temperature dropped to -10 °). The greenhouse was placed directly in the ground without a foundation and ordered to sprinkle with earth. To make the beds, I dug up the soil (photo 3), sowed white mustard and planted seedlings (photo 4). Outside and inside, she covered the greenhouse with spanbond (photo 5) from overheating, but then took it off, as the summer was cold.
Tomatoes grew well, but due to the fact that the greenhouse was placed directly on soft ground, water began to flow into it on the sides after heavy rains (photo 6), and there were so many of them that year! However, the tomatoes did not hurt, because they were well ventilated, rarely watered and regularly sprayed. And I sprayed them with serum with iodine and sugar, hydrogen peroxide, biofungicide, potassium humate, solutions of effective microorganisms, boric acid, soda, and trichopolum.
I also decided to mulch the earth with a roll of thick white paper (photo 7), and this was my second mistake. And the first and most important thing was that I planted potatoes on the side of the greenhouse. Although she knew that it was impossible to plant him nearby! I thought that through the wall - it's okay ...
Of course, the potato fell ill with blight. And after another heavy rain the water from the diseased bushes penetrated into the greenhouse. The fact that I dug a groove for draining water between the greenhouse and the potatoes not only did not help, but, most likely, even contributed to the transfer of infection. The paper in this place was soaked from the inside just opposite the potatoes, and a day later two bushes of tomatoes turned black in this place.
See also: Fighting tomato blight - dacha tips
Obviously, I put this paper in vain, it did not allow the water to evaporate quickly and the beds to dry.
I pulled out these two bushes, cultivated the soil with potassium permanganate, then biofungicide. She cleaned all the paper, cut the potatoes under the root, threw the tops into the garbage in the bag, but it was too late - late blight went.
Spraying salt did not give any result, but I did not despair, began daily to pick off the leaves of tomatoes that begin to turn black.
Tomatoes were poured (photo 8-9). I began to spray more often - in a day or two. On sunny days, kept the temperature in the greenhouse for several hours at about 40 °, closing the doors and windows, - the fungus dies at this temperature. All these actions of mine slowed down a little late blight, and I finally waited for the first ripening tomatoes (photo 10-11).
But then on one of the fruits a black spot appeared. It was a signal for urgent collection. I collected everything that I had time to grow: brown, green and red tomatoes. The entire first collection ripened safely. The fruits were sticky from the treatments with whey, sugar and iodine, and together they blushed in boxes (photo 12-14).
There was also a second gathering, when the remaining ones grew, but there some fruits began to turn black. But the third harvest had to be closed for the winter in green, otherwise the whole crop would have turned black. The plants looked very sad (photo 15), I had to remove them and plant mustard.
But in general, I am pleased with my first experience of growing tomatoes in a polycarbonate greenhouse. My only regret is that I did not mumble them with mowed grass, frightened by slugs. The following year I no longer dig up the ground, planted tomatoes in mustard and mulched nettles and lawn grass.
In place of potatoes, they planted garlic and onions before winter; in the greenhouse, too, garlic grows along the edge. I washed the greenhouse with tar soap, the passageways shed copper sulphate. I treated the walls and soil with a farmaiod, after three days I spilled the soil with a biological preparation.
I want to add a few words about something else - about our strength and health. Dear summer residents, pensioners! Do not spend the winter on the TV on the couch, do not let your muscles atrophy. And then many complain that for the winter, despite the rest, for some reason, the strength goes away. Let's extend our life and improve our health through simple but necessary exercises.
Squats with a straight back, holding on a fixed support (lifting on an exhalation).
Abdominal exercises - at least lifting your legs while lying on your back.
Pushups from the table, from the chair, from the floor, who can.
Do the exercises as many times as you can, but always with a gradual increase in load. You can take several approaches ten times, then fifteen times, and so on. Keep a diary of your successes. Try to go for a walk twice a day.
I wish you all good health, which largely depends on us.
See also: How to get rid of phytophthora - my tips and ways
© Author: Evgenia Alexandrovna KUSTAREVA Mytishchi, Moscow Region
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For the prevention of late blight, I spray my tomatoes every two weeks with a yeast solution. Yeast is the same fungus, only healthy. By introducing them onto tomato leaves, we no longer leave room for harmful late blight fungi — useful fungi will not allow them to multiply.
After spraying, improvement is evident. Am I doing the right thing? Does yeast beat phytophoresis?
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Late blight develops inside the plant, where yeast fungi never penetrate, so do not talk about preventing this disease in a similar way. In addition, yeast develops in a humid environment and where there is sugar.
For example, on the surface of a plant that is infected with whiteflies, aphids, and cicadas, they produce sweet, sticky secretions on the leaves. So-called honey dew appears. Yeast “eats this sugar, honey dew leaves, and the plant actually gets better. But in the absence of sugar and moisture, the yeast itself will die.
The positive effect of the yeast solution, of course, is. Spraying itself is a good washing of plants that improves their condition. This pattern can be observed even when spraying ordinary water. But this is a visible effect. After 2-3 days, the spread of the disease will continue.