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THE MOST EARLY REPAIRED MALINA !!!

To approximate the ripening dates of the harvest and extend them as much as possible - each gardener solves this problem in his own way. If you can do it easily and simply, share your experience with readers.

Summer residents are curious people, for years they have grown varietal large-fruited raspberries and only in the last 10-12 years have they mastered the technology of cultivating remont. Some say: “Well, raspberries and raspberries, what's so special?” And it’s special both in growing technology and in taste, not to mention the period harvesting - from early July to mid-October!

I have been growing raspberries for eight years, I have written out seedlings from Chelyabinsk - three varieties, Hercules has proven himself to be the best in yield. Reliable turned out to be very interesting: large red berries are not collected in a brush, and one by one hang on long stalks. The Monomakh Hat variety did not take root at all: apparently, the lengthy transportation affected the quality of the seedlings - the Far East is not close.

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The next season I wrote out three more varieties - Atlant, Apricot, Ruby necklace, so now there are five varieties in my collection. And I am very pleased that I have repair raspberries, thanks to the Chelyabinsk breeders, because in our area it is very difficult to get good varietal seedlings.

The first 2-3 of the year's harvest began from the end of August, and ended on October 10-15, and, of course, the last berries went under the snow and did not ripen.

I myself am a specialist agronomist and fruit grower, I had to work in different regions - Primorye, Khabarovsk Territory, Yakutia, now retired, I live in Birobidzhan. Great experience has been accumulated, but the terms of collecting raspberries did not suit me, early berries were needed — you understand, vitamins for grandchildren. This is where I applied three options.

FIRST METHOD

I tried to plant in the summer, until August 10, well-ripened shoots - their own seedlings - in separate rows with a distance between bushes of 50-70 cm, and between rows - 1 m.

The preparation of the soil is ordinary, I did not place the shoots vertically, but horizontally, carefully filling the root system. I watered abundantly, since I don’t bring any fertilizers during planting: autumn in the Far East is usually long, warm, so the survival rate of shoots is good. The tops were shortened by 1/3 a week after planting. Before frosts, she covered the shoots with small boards, which she pressed with bricks, sprinkled the root system a little with sawdust and humus, and in this state the shoots went into the winter, i.e. without practiced by many pruning flush with the soil. We usually have a lot of snow, shoots winter well. In spring, I freed them from shelter, lifted them, poured the earth, and in two weeks I trimmed the tops by 5-10 cm. And this raspberry began to give berries as early as July 10 — it was a joy to the kids!

SECOND METHOD

It was necessary to achieve a good sustainable harvest from the beginning of August. For this purpose, for the winter I didn’t cut off flush with the soil, but left 15-20 cm and also insulated the root system for the winter with sawdust, humus, foliage.

THIRD METHOD

This is a common option when in the fall (early October) the shoots are cut “to zero” - this is the expression of the agronomists, that is flush with the soil. The fruiting of such shoots began on September 10-15 and lasted until the 20th of October.

I use these three options for all my varieties of remont raspberries, except for Apricot - I cut it flush with the soil. For the winter I’m not harboring anything. The most common mistake of our summer residents is that they try to cover the shoots with foil from above, wrap with covering material, and sometimes also sprinkle with earth. In the spring, they often do not have time to open the shoots in time, and the skin of the raspberries is tender - that’s why they have time to stay warm during spring melting of snow and excessively moist soil.

Want to get an early harvest? Put the snow after the snow falls, stretch the covering material and do not forget to feed urea by scattering it on the soil surface. I never tie raspberries: the shoots are powerful and they withstand a bountiful harvest. In a season I collect 25-30 buckets from six rows of 8-10 meters in length. Before raspberries, 0,5 meters before the first row, I plant a row of corn on 3-4, it protects the berries from the wind.

Try my methods - you will not regret it, the harvest is guaranteed. Of course, there are other ways to grow remontant raspberries, but mine have been reliably tested over eight years.

Raspberry leaves healthier berries! They contain much more ascorbic acid (vitamin C) than citrus and black currant. Enough to drink tea from raspberry leaves twice a day to relieve fatigue and strengthen the immune system, especially in terms of combating viruses. Well help this tea hypertensive and diabetics. Fresh leaves gruel is effective for skin problems.

Repair Raspberry (part 1)

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Dacha with their own hands > Garden plants > Shrubs in the country > Raspberries > The Three Ways of the Earliest Repairing Raspberries - Planting and Care Tips

2 Review (s)

E. Miroshenko, Nizhny Novgorod
29/09/2019 (05:20) #

I am a beginner gardener. And this fall I want to buy and plant remont raspberries. Where is it better to plant her? Which grade to choose?

- OOO "Sad"
  29/09/2019 (05:20) #
  
  Many modern raspberry varieties have undeniable advantages: large-fruit, high yield, taste. But due to their inability to adverse environmental factors, raspberry plants often freeze, their productivity decreases in hot dry seasons, and pests and diseases in epiphytotic years often lead to an almost complete loss of yield.
  Another thing is repairing varieties that bear fruit on annual shoots in late summer - early fall. They have the formation of the crop and its return occur in more favorable conditions than in the summer. Shoots are highly durable and do not need support. The annual mowing and removal of prolific stems from the site can significantly reduce the level of infection and stop using pesticides. In addition, berries of the repairing varieties are not affected by the raspberry beetle, since this pest does not have time to populate raspberries.
  
  The shoots of the repairing varieties are mown in the fall, with the onset of steady frost, or early in the spring, before the start of the growing season. Also in spring, raspberries are fed with nitrogen fertilizers at the rate of 10-15 g / sq. m. Otherwise, the agricultural technology of remont raspberries is similar to the cultivation of ordinary varieties.
  Root crops and pumpkin crops are considered good predecessors for raspberries. Placing plantings after potatoes, tomatoes, peppers, beans and eggplants is unacceptable, since they have a common disease with raspberry.
  The plots are allocated well-lit, with a leveled topography and low standing groundwater. When planting raspberries in low places, plants quickly die.
  The famous raspberry breeder academician I.V. Cossacks brought many great varieties of remont raspberries. They are characterized by high productivity (up to 3,5 kg per bush), large (on average 10-12 g) berries with excellent taste and delicate raspberry aroma. But the main advantage of these varieties is that the crops on them, even in the conditions of the Central Non-Black Earth Region, have time to ripen before the onset of autumn frosts. The most famous of these varieties: Augustine, Apricot, Atlas, Indian summer, Diamond, Heracles, Eurasia, Firebird, Golden domes, Orange miracle, Ruby necklace, Penguin, Amber.
  The creation of repairing varieties was also carried out by another prominent breeder, Professor V.V. Kichina. Well-established are its varieties Kalashnik, Inaccessible, P-34.
  All these varieties have no world analogues in terms of taste, yield, or ripening. The height of their fruiting occurs in late August - early September, which allows for a long time to extend the period of consumption of fresh raspberries.