Planting and caring for clematis - fan tips for these colors
Clematis LIVING IN LOVE - SECRETS AND TIPS
The garden of Marina OVCHINNIKOVA from the village of Nikolaevka in the Mogilev region is buried in flowers in the summer. With special love and reverent attitude of the attractive owner, the clematis are kindly caressed. See how beautiful Marina grows! And listen to her tips for caring for vines.
They say that if you choose the right varieties of clematis for your garden, then half the job is done. Do you agree?
- Yes, of course. In my collection, specimens that are suitable for growing in the middle lane are adapted to our climate. Also, when choosing clematis, it is important to proceed from where you want to plant them - near an arch, pergola or any building. What if you want to make the liana an accent of a flower arrangement? Near the arches, tall, flowering plants of Purpurea Plena Elegans, John Paul 2 and many others were planted. Favorite clematis-solitaire: Beautiful Bride with flowers up to 28 cm in diameter and Kaiser, which is studded with buds almost from the ground.
Of the new products, I like the Solidarity variety with large red flowers. Quite a rare color, because these plants are mainly dominated by lilac tones. You can decorate a fence or building with unpretentious clematis Cosmic melody or Elegy. They bloom for a long time. True, it is desirable to plant them in the sun, unlike princes, who feel good in partial shade.
See also: Planting clematis from A to Z (PHOTOS + MASTER CLASS)
Please share the secrets of planting clematis.
- Massively sell seedlings in the spring. At this time, I buy them and plant them. Moreover, if the kidneys have not yet woken up, you can not be afraid of return frosts. When the leaves are opened, I cover the clematis with a cut off five-liter bottle with an open neck. When a green shoot appears from it, I take off the shelter. I plant plants with a closed root system in the summer. At this time, they do not need shelter. In late August and early September, I divide and plant old bushes. By the way, it is often written on the Internet that clematis in one place can grow up to 20 years. My experience shows: at the age of ten, flowers fade. So it's time to rejuvenate.
One more tip from the world wide web: the landing hole should be 60 × 60 cm. In my opinion, this recommendation is valid only for large delenki. If you have a young one-two-year-old seedling, it’s not necessary to dig such a large hole. Want to follow the rule? Then prepare the place at least a few days before the intended planting, so that the soil has time to settle. If you have a lowland, do not forget about drainage. Clematis do not like acidic soils, but I do not know the land.
I read that then it lacks iron, due to which plants become ill with chlorosis. Into the planting pit, with depth and width on the bayonet of a shovel, I bring in a mixture of garden soil with compost (1: 1), add a glass of wood ash and a handful of complex fertilizer. I straighten the roots of the seedling on the knoll. I dig the buds on 6-8 cm. In autumn delenki - to a depth of 10-12 cm. When spring planting, I do not sprinkle green shoots of the first-year ground with the soil, leaving a hole around. By mid-summer, the shoots are woody and can already be covered with earth. Also shade young seedlings. Here again a five-liter bottle helps, coated with clay inside. Clematis watering well watering (later on weather). Little clematis needs support immediately. It is not permissible for a liana to lie on the ground.
Your clematis bloom great! What are you feeding?
- The main rule: clematis is contraindicated in any form of manure. I have been feeding root dressings since April-May. First I give nitrogen (a solution of urea or ammonium nitrate). You need to be careful with the dosage, it is better to follow the instructions. Excess nitrogen provokes the development of fungal diseases. During budding I use “Crystal” for abundantly flowering plants. From organics, biohumus and preparations based on humic acids are excellent. I feed once a month. In August, I completely stop feeding. After the second wave of flowering, the testes are removed so that the plant does not waste strength on their ripening.
See also: 7 Clematis Care Questions
How to protect clematis from disease?
- Subject to agricultural technology, they do not get sick. However, at the dawn of my hobby, I was in trouble. Lost several copies due to the wilt. Its signs - the plant quickly fades, blackens. I deal with the disease like this: remove the affected shoots. The remaining ones are treated with any copper-containing preparation (I spray and spill). In the future, shoots well tied up and planted bushes in a quiet place. There, at least half a day, the sun should drop in.
In the spring I start preventive treatment with fungicides. In this regard, I like Fol-con (5 ml / 10 l of water). Since the causative agents of wilt (fungal spores) live in the soil, it is necessary to reduce the contact of the plant with it. Here I borrowed the experience of the Belarusian experimental gardener Stefan Nedyalkov. He adds ash to the river sand and sprinkles at the base of the shoots.
Do you have a lot of trouble on the eve of winter?
- In the second half of August, to increase frost resistance, I introduce complex fertilizer with a predominance of phosphorus. At the end of October, I cut the clematis of the third group at a height of 20 cm from the base and spud. I remove the plants of the second group from the supports, cut them at a height of 1 m from the base, spud and again tie them to the support. For insurance I wrap a spanbond. Young clematis winter well under plastic bottles with corks. I do not cover the roots with trimmed shoots - mice are brought into them. For this I use spruce branches.
Interviewed by Lidia NOVIKOVA. Photo by the author and Marina OVCHINNIKOVA
NOTE: WHY DOES KLEMATIS TURN YELLOW?
The foliage on my clematis turned yellow last summer. What is my vine sick with and can I help her?
Tamara Dmitrievna GUSEVA, Voronezh region, Boguchar
Note
Sometimes spotting appears on the leaves, which occurs due to pathogenic fungi. The liana is saved from them by preparations containing copper - this is copper or iron vitriol. They treat the plant in spring and autumn, and the affected leaves and shoots are immediately plucked and burned.
There may be several reasons for this condition. First, the plant lacks nutrients. Secondly, yellowing of the leaves can cause fungal diseases. Thirdly, this symptom may signal that pests have infected the roots of clematis. Therefore, it is important to establish the cause immediately in order to save the vine from death.
Rust
In particular, a disease called rust can manifest itself in this way. Yellow or brown swellings appear on the leaves and stems. As a result, they are deformed, dry out completely and fall off. However, the plant can still release new leaves. But, having overwintered on clematis, rust in the spring can spread to young shoots, which threatens the death of the bush. Therefore, in the fall, you should carry out a complete pruning - to the roots. Even if clematis cannot bloom next year, pruning will save it for the future: new shoots will grow over the summer, and flowers will appear in a year.
Then clematis is sprayed with a 2% solution of Bordeaux liquid, "Oxyhom", "Polikom" or copper oxychloride.
At the same time, it is worth treating plants that grow nearby: tulips, phloxes, peonies, aquilegia, delphiniums, hosts.
Weather and pests
However, the wilting of a flower with yellowing of the leaves can also occur due to unstable air temperature, when, for example, in winter frosts are replaced by thaws. In this case, you need to water the plant under the root with a 2% solution of "Fundazol". This drug can also be used for preventive purposes in spring and autumn, as it prevents the growth and spread of fungi, but completely destroys them.
Keep in mind that the leaves can also turn yellow due to the fact that the roots of clematis eat the larvae of May beetles or nematodes. In this case, such a remedy helps: the vine is watered with a weak solution of potassium permanganate or water passed through the ash.
Council
A good prevention of diseases for clematis is the use of wood ash: 1 part is mixed with 10 parts of sand and poured under the roots of the plant.
KLEMATIS - LANDING AND CARE FOR BEGINNERS - VIEWО
Below other entries on the topic "Dacha and garden - with their own hands"
- Daylilies - classification by flowering groups (abbreviations), etc.
- On growing tomatoes and choosing varieties - collector's advice (2)
- July work in the apple orchard during the ovaries
- Tomato Trees - testimonials of an experienced gardener
- G. Kizima's advice - Why do lazy people have better harvests in the garden?
- Planting and growing walnuts - gardener tips
- Garden by Galina Kizima - issue 3
- Planting and caring for clematis - fan tips for these colors
- Saplings for Siberia - answers and advice from a nursery grower
- Growing blueberries on an industrial scale
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Verticillus wilt of clematis
The disease manifests itself in the second half of summer - in the midst of flowering. Leaves and inflorescences on separate stems suddenly droop sharply, despite abundant watering.
These are the "tricks" of one of the most harmful soil pathogens - the fungus Verticillium, which, developing on the roots, blocks the access of nutrients to the plant. As a result, all leaves, along with the stem, turn brown and dry out.
Steps to Salvation
Cut out the affected stems to the base, spill the base of the bush with Maxim (4 ml / 2 l of water).
After a week, bury 5-5 tablets of "Glyocladin" around the bush to a depth of no more than 6 cm and as close as possible to the roots. The main condition for the success of its application (as well as "Trichotsina", "Trichophlora") is constantly moist and mulched soil.
With a high degree of damage, cut off all the stems, dig up the bush, separate the still healthy parts, and the rest into the fire.
Rinse the roots from the remnants of the earth at the delenoks and soak for 30 minutes in the "Maxim" solution (according to the instructions). Place them on the quarantine bed.
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Clematis: dressing and care
In early and mid-July, I am sure to feed clematis with mullein infusion (1:10), to which I add mineral fertilizers (100 g of superphosphate and 500 g of wood ash per 10 l of the composition; I insist an hour). And for the prevention of fungal diseases I spray once with Bordeaux liquid (100 g per 10 liters of water).
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Is it obligatory to lay drainage on the bottom of the pit when clematis is planted?
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- I am categorically against drainage in the landing pit for clematis (as well as for tree-like and grassy peonies, apple trees, pears, etc.). If there is water on the site, you need to divert it! If there is no such opportunity, plant willows, they are water-chowder and also very beautiful, they tolerate any haircut, even on a stump. The older the trees, the less water will be in the ground.
When laying drainage on clay soil in a planting pit for one plant, you get a well with water - it will flow here from all around. As a result, the plant dies. With a high occurrence of groundwater (closer than 2 m to the soil surface) on the site, with spring flooding of the garden with melt water, plant all plants on elevated ridges or on a loose earthen mound (its height depends on a particular plant, for clematis - 10-15 cm).
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They presented beautiful clematis in a pot, and summer is in the yard. How to plant him in order not to lose? Our soil is clayey.
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- A clematis seedling with closed roots can be planted now. A pit for planting lianas is made in the size of 50x50x50 cm - this is a minimum, better bigger. The excavated soil is mixed with humus or compost, peat and sand (2: 2: 1: 1).
To this mixture add 100-150 g of a complete mineral fertilizer (Fertika, Buisky fertilizers), 2-3 tbsp. ash, 150-200 g of dolomite flour (slaked lime, chalk). If there is bone meal, add it (150 g). All mix well and fill the landing pit.
Container clematis planted by transshipment without destroying the earthen lump. Be sure to deepen! The tillering node in young plants should be 5-10 cm below the soil level, and in adults - 10-15 cm. This planting protects the root system of clematis from overheating in summer and freezing in winter. After planting, the plant needs to be well watered, and the soil should be mulched. Sprinkle the lower part of the shoots with a mixture of pure sand with wood ash (or crushed coal) in a ratio of 1: 1, this will help to avoid fungal diseases.
IMPORTANT! During any transplanting, the shoots are shortened to two to three internodes, and broken, diseased or damaged roots are cut to healthy tissue. Places of root cuts are treated with crushed charcoal. In order to stimulate the development of the root system in clematis and in the future to obtain a strong specimen, in the first year of planting in summer, all shoots of the plant are cut in half. And in the fall, regardless of variety, they leave for winter only one or two knots above the soil surface.
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\ / I have a few questions for summer residents.
In On clematis some whitish mold appeared and nothing I can not bring down. Flowers from this scourge grow worse and worse, bloom poorly, and their flowers have become small. What to do?
In In a glass greenhouse ants invisibly and invisibly divorced. All the funds that I specifically wrote out in detail from the Dacha binder did not help. Maybe there are some other “secret” methods of struggle? In addition, in the same greenhouse I began to notice that for some reason there were a lot of cobwebs in it. Sometimes, you even have to brush it off with your hands when caring for landings. I tried to wash it off with water from the glasses, but she still reappears quickly. Is this some kind of pest living in the greenhouse?
At Three years ago, I bought a Pepi self-pollinated pear. The seedling was in a container and even began to bear fruit a little. I landed it by all the rules, but the next spring it did not bloom. And still does not bloom, most importantly, by autumn on the tree all the foliage is covered with some brown dots, and then it gets completely dark. And this year on leaflets I also found nasty small insects. How can I cure my pear? Who will tell?
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For many years, near my house in the garden plot grows clematis. Previously, the whole vine was strewn with beautiful flowers. But in recent years, they have become smaller and no longer look so attractive. Maybe the bush is waiting for rejuvenation? Tell us how it is carried out and when?
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To preserve the appearance of clematis, as well as to improve its growth and the formation of new roots, the following method is used. On the trunk circle, make holes around the 5-7 circumference with a depth of about 50 and at a distance from the center of the 40-50 bush. They are left for several days to improve gas exchange in the soil, and then layer by layer with high-quality compost, alternating it with granular superphosphate, humus, peat, sawdust, leaves.
Thanks to this procedure, the formation of new clematis roots is stimulated. Through holes directly to the roots pour a solution of mineral fertilizers. With this method, water evaporates slowly, well soaking an earthen lump.
Usually rejuvenation is carried out in spring or autumn, and after a few years it is repeated. After this, the plants begin to grow and develop normally.
The same method is also good for rejuvenating the root system of variegated roses and other perennials in the garden.