5

5 Review (s)

  1. Summerman, gardener and gardener (anonymous)

    Apricot grew 8 m high (see photo). The young tree felt sorry and did not cut. And now I don’t know how to do it right ...
    Nadezhda Semenyuk

    Apricot in a small area - growing, planting and care

    Reply
    • OOO "Sad"

      - Your tree needs anti-aging pruning. In early spring, trim the top of the tree, leaving only two lower skeletal branches on each of the growing trunks for fruiting. Shorten the left branches by half.
      When trimming, do not leave stumps, that is, cut the upper part onto a ring. When trimming the left skeletal branches, use the technique with the transfer to the side branch.

      Reply
  2. Leonid Oleinik, Lomonosov, Leningrad Region

    Planted two apricot trees and cherries, 2-3 years old. I’m doing gardening recently, until I know how to understand whether the plants survived the winter well or suffered. How to determine?

    Reply
    • OOO "Sad"

      You can determine whether a tree has frozen or not, only at the end of winter.
      If critical temperatures are kept, then three weeks after them you need to cut a twig and look at the cut.
      If the wood of the branch is green, then everything is in order.
      If the wood is slightly brown, then the tree froze, but in a year or two it will recover.
      If the branch has become dark brown or blackened, the tree cannot be saved.
      After frosts, you can also check whether the tree will yield a harvest: put a cut branch in a glass of water. If the buds swell, bloom, then the tree is able to bear fruit. If not, there will be problems with the crop.
      Which branches on the tree froze, and which are alive, you can find out in the spring. Branches on which the buds did not open are affected; they can be cut.

      Reply
  3. Julia SAMOILOVA, Kaluga.

    Of the two apricots, one survived
    In the spring, two two-year-old apricot seedlings of the Kichiginsky and Snezhinsky varieties were planted. The pits (80 cm in diameter and 60 cm deep) were filled with a mixture of fertile soil, humus (1-2 buckets) and complex mineral fertilizer (2 tsp). Heat-loving plants were given the sunniest place on the site. They developed well in the summer, but after the winter only Kichiginsky woke up. In the summer, nibbling shoots between the 4th and 5th leaves. And already in the 4th year, the tree bloomed, and in the summer they tried the first fruits.
    For winter, we tie the trunk of the plant with spruce, and we cover the trunk circle with humus. In spring, as the soil thaws, we feed with urea, in summer and autumn - with complex mineral fertilizer. If there is no rain, we make sure that the land does not dry out by the subtree. We do not allow weeds in the near-stem circle. We cut the crown in the spring, but we want to transfer this work to late autumn. One of the most dangerous diseases of fruit trees is a monilial burn. Two apricots and two cherries died from this scourge. Now we must protect the garden. In autumn, after leaf fall and early spring before the growing season, we spray all the trees with a solution of urea (700 g per 10 liters of water). In the spring, two weeks after treatment, spray with Bordeaux liquid (300 g per 10 liters of water). Then 10 days later - with the fungicide Horus, and two weeks later - with Skor.

    Reply

Mini-forum of gardeners

Your email will not be visible